Hole in the Wall: Hunan Lutong Bahay

from top left, clockwise
Braised Pork, Hot Pot Duck, Cua Pao and Cold Pig's Ears

I hate eavesdroppers.

While having a dimsum brunch at Jasmine with Stitch and his lovely wife, M, our conversation meanders between work, the kids, mutual friends but eventually settles on our favorite topic -- food. Specifically, we are having a semi-heated rant session on why there is a lack of Chinese regional cuisine in Manila nowadays. While the rest of the world is discovering the wildly wondrous tastes and texture of China, it seems that local gastronomes are stuck with the same Cantonese same-old same-old.

“Where is our Sichuan Pepper Pork Belly?!” I demand as I suck on the last of the chicken feet.

From out of nowhere, our server suggests, “If you like spicy food, there is a restaurant near Rockwell you might like…” He continues to refill our empty teacups. At first, I was taken aback. The server continues, “It is a small place. No sign. But the food is very good and very hot. I’ll get you the address,” he adds as removes the empty bamboo steamers from the table and disappears into the kitchen. There is a pause at the table. But knowing my dining guests, we are all having the same thought bubble: We are so eating there.

A few months later, I find myself strolling down an empty road in a less glitzy area of the neighboring Rockwell. Having eaten at (what is popularly called) Hunan Lutong Bahay, Stitch suggested that we park our cars at the mall because parking can be problem. In fact, there is no parking. “And we have to get there early. It gets packed quickly.” he recommends. It’s just past 10 am, the summer sun is beating down and I am starving. “Where the heck is this place?” I grumble as Stitch gleefully leads the way.

Hunan Lutong Bahay is not so much a restaurant as a small townhouse with more than the usual dining tables. As mentioned by the intrusive server, there is no sign. A white and beige exterior greets would-be diners, echoing an interior just as plain and unadorned. For me, this is not a minus. Those of you who have been reading this blog will know that I love small, austere eateries that focus on only important thing, the food.

Hunan regional dishes are the specialty of the house. (For more information on Hunan cuisine, check out this blog.). Since Stitch and I share a long-standing obsession with all that is pork, it comes as no surprise that we start our meal with plate of Cold Pig’s Ears (P180). Thin slices of pig’s ears are boiled till tender and served with soy-vinegar sauce and a bit of a chili kick. Stitch excitedly suggests we also order the Braised Pork Belly (P240), slices of slow cooked pork belly served on top of braised bitter greens. What I love about these dishes are the layers of both textures and flavors that each dish brings. From the gelatinous to the crunchy, from butter-like fatness to porky earthiness, each pork dish brings a different experience with every bite.

While I love my pig, I also adore duck in equal measure. I literally could hear the Hot Pot Duck (P400) call my name. Local ducks are rough cut into bite-sized pieces, blended with aromatic mixture of bay leaves and dried red chilis and gradually braised in its own fat. The end result is a duck dish with its caramelized sweetness counterpointed by subtle, slow-building chili heat. Here is a friendly suggestion. While the kitchen provides each guest unlimited bowls of white rice, I would still order a generous plate of Cua Pao(P80). These puffy clouds of steamed goodness are perfect for sopping up the delectable sauces and flavorful braising liquids at the bottom of every plate.

I still dislike eavesdroppers. But eavesdroppers with valuable foodie information, I think I will make an exception.

Much thanks to Stitch for showing me around.

Hunan Lutong Bahay
6404 Camia Street
Makati City
Cel: (0915) 425 2972 or (0927) 787 6999

Table Suggestions: Beijing Handed-Pulled Noodles

Braised Beef Dry Noodles

There are noodles and then are hand-pulled noodles.

While discuss arrangements for a party, Chef Him Uy de Baron enthusiastically told me about this little place in Little Baguio that made amazing Chinese noodles--simple, flavorful, handmade noodles made by a guy who “just got off the boat from China.” I’m not sure if the "just got off the boat" part is true but being the consummate lover of noodles and of small dining places, I decided to pay Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles a visit.

Fried Pork Dumplings

Over the past couple of years, J. Abad Santos and its adjacent byways have become an interestingly diverse epicenter of dining. From Mexican tacos to Italian lasagna, from Shanghainese Xiao Long Bao to Taiwanese bubble tea, from cheap-ass steaks and the best (at least, in my humble opinion) Cantonese fast food, the choices seem almost boundless. But tonight I am looking for a nice bowl of noodles.

Ingredients-wise, hand-pulled noodles are not particularly unique. Wheat flour, water, salt are all that is needed to make noodles. But what make these particular noodles into the strands of goodness are the swift and adept hands of a noodle chef. At Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles, this process happens with every order, on the hour, every hour. Thus, every customer is assured a bowl of freshly made noodles with every visit.

Sea Grass

A. asks to split a bowl of Braised Beef Dry Noodles (P130). The servings are generous enough so I heartily agree. Besides, I need to save some space for the other tempting side dishes I spy on the menu. Our bowls are simple: quickly boiled noodles covered in reddish beef broth and garnished with cubes of delicately braised beef, minced garlic, slices of red chilies and stalks of bak choy. With just enough spicy kick to keep interesting, each chopstick-full is warm and comforting. Wanting to try some side dishes, we place an order of Deep-fried Pork Dumplings (P70) and an intriguing plate of Sea Grass (P70).

The fried dumplings truly hit the spot–a crispy, golden brown shell surrounding a savory center of minced Chinese sausage, herby greens, pork meat and fat. Dipped in a tangy dipping sauce, each dumpling is raised to a new mouthwatering level. The sea grass is another story. Being a sucker for the strange and unusual, the name draws me in. But what arrives at the table does not so much resemble grass as it does an oddly sea green pasta. I appreciate its interesting taste which had a distinct flavor of seaweed. That is, of course, if you could get beyond the rubbery mouth feel and the slightly over-powering zing of the black vinegar dressing.

Admittedly, Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles is not for everybody. I've heard some people complain about the lack of a more extensive menu or even that food is so unadorned that it borders on the boring. I guess it a matter of perspective. For me, the fact that their focus is making great noodles and that they are more concerned with flavor than impressing you with fancy plating, makes this place a true comfort food destination. This is one restaurant I would not mind coming back to again and again.

Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles

Unit 4

Citiplace Building

J Abad Santos Street

San Juan City

Tel: (02) 487 6148

Pass the Pad Thai: Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant

From top left, clockwise
Miang Takhrai Krathong Thong, Orchid Setting
Thua Dum, Thai Jasmine Rice

The stiff, starched linen. The tasteful use of purple orchids on tabletops and garnishes. The soft, soothing sound of traditional Thai music played on a khim (dulcimer) by an actual Thai musician in a corner. The fine benjarong (hand-painted bone china; from which this restaurant is also named after). All red flags signaling a meal here probably isn’t going to be too budget-friendly.

Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant is the Thai restaurant of the Dusit Thani Manila which specializes in Royal Thai cuisine. This regional style of cooking originates from Central Thailand and was only meant for royal court and families but has been made available of late to the public. Basically it’s a mix of the fiery Northern cuisine and the South’s profuse use of coconut milk. And while Thai home-style cooking focuses on the balance of the taste of food itself, Royal Thai cuisine basically ups it a little with emphasis on aesthetics as well.

However I wasn’t here for all the frou-frou. I’d be happy to eat with my hands, seated over gutters as long as the food was worth it. This place just happens to be the place to get proper Thai food when in Manila. True there are a handful of good ones in the Makati/Taguig area alone. But I feel Benjarong still gives the best value amidst the competition in terms of the quality, portions and uncompromising authenticity of ingredients and preparation. And yes, the food tastes great. As if I were in a “proper” restaurant back in Bangkok.

For this lunch we had Miang Takhrai Krathong Thong to start. Tuna, lemongrass, dried shrimp, shallots, lemon and chili in crisp pastry cups. Flavorful, aromatic with just that tiny bit of heat to kick-start the palate. Almost too pretty to eat.

From top left, clockwise
Table Setting, Gaeng Phed Moo
Phad Phak Kana Pla Kem, Tom Yum Talay

Just as with Filipino meals, wherein the soup and other viands are eaten with rice at the same time, our mains arrive altogether. We had Tom Yum Talay perfectly cooked mixed seafood in a pleasantly mild sour broth. The Phad Phak Kana Pla Kem, or wok-fried but still crunchy kailan with flaked fried salted fish, is a Chinese influenced dish with a smoky flavor imparted by the high heat cooking. The Gaeng Phed Moo or red pork curry with coconut milk was actually a second choice after the unavailable massaman beef curry (a "dry" red curry) but was excellent as well. The gravy alone was good enough to eat spooned over fragrant jasmine rice. The key to ordering Thai food is to balance out tastes across several dishes; textures from crispy to creamy, flavors ranging from delicate to very spicy. Not all Thai dishes are fiery as some people fear. But given I tend go overboard with the Phrik Nam Pla (condiment made of fish sauce, chili, garlic & manao) its pretty normal for my tongue to be throbbing from the chili burn after a good Thai meal. Dessert always provides the solution.

The fat found in coconut cream helps moderate and dilute the capsaicin from the chilies and cool sugar solutions provide relief from the burn. Not surprising that a number of Thai desserts come in form of cool or cold milky liquids. The Sago Thua Dum (pandan scented sago and sweet black beans in coconut milk) provided some tasty reprieve. The sweet sticky soup coated the mouth; the chewy sago and tender beans provided the needed distraction. After finishing my serving the heat was not a problem any more. Yet another satisfying meal at Benjarong.

Definitely not the type of place to have meals at regularly but I’ve been to one too many Thai restaurants (or those that try to pass themselves off as one) in the city and have been left with a broken heart AND with a thinner wallet just the same. Not to say I’m unwilling to try other Thai restaurants that’ll come up but if I were to reward myself or celebrate a special occasion I wouldn’t think twice coming here because I know the experience would be worth it.

Now if only a price friendlier Isaan (Northern Thai) style grill would open here.

Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant
Mezzanine Level
Dusit Thani Hotel
Ayala Center, Makati City
Tel: (02) 867 3333 ext. 3351

Pass the Pad Thai: AzuThai

Crispy Duck Salad

Like many of you out there in the interweb, I love Thai food.

Maybe it is the levels of balanced tastes in every dish–the mellow interplay of the sweet with the sour and the dramatic tug-of-war between the salt and spice. Or maybe it the sensitive to textures–the contrasting mouth feel of well-braised softness of some dishes and the fresh crispy crunch of fresh herbage and greens of others. On the surface, Thai cuisine seems so simple and yet is very much complex.

But for the ever more cosmopolitan Pinoy palate, it is all about the comforting deliciousness that we crave. Traditional Thai food has become such a staple of Manila's dining scene that it is almost synonymous with our own homegrown comfort dishes. How else could one possibly explain the growing number of Thai restaurants? Some Thai restaurants fade away but there always seems to be another one sprouting up to take its place.

Not all of these restaurants are created equal. Some are the proverbial hole-in-the-wall eateries. Others are sadly soulless fast food chains. And there are exceptional few that elevate what is essentially Thai home cooking to almost the levels of fine dining.

That is exactly what AzuThai hopes to bring to the table.

Fresh Thai Spring Rolls

Opened by the brother-sister restaurant super duo of Malu and Chef J Gamboa, AzuThai pays homage to home spun dishes of any northern Thai household by sprucing up the look of each dish and yet maintaining the flavors and textures we have all come know and love.

Upon the gracious recommendation of our server, we start our meal with a perennial AzuThai favorite, the Poh Pia Paksot or Fresh Thai Spring Rolls (P195). A combination of garden green, slices of tomatoes and onions and traditional-used thai herbs is tightly wrapped in rice paper. While the sliced spring roll itself is fresh and layered with texture, it is somewhat bland in undressed salad fashion. But what really brings this dish to life is the accompanying dipping sauce of peanuts and tamarind. The sweet/sour sauce coupled with bitter astringent qualities of the spring rolls make for a balanced and appetizing introduction.

In keeping with our resolution of eating healthier this year, we decide to try to the Yam Ped Grob or Crispy Duck Salad (P325). Thin slices of duck are deep-fried to a chip-like consistency and mixed with savory mixture of tomatoes wedges, rings of red onions, slices of spring onions, and chilis, salad green and herbs. To spice things up a notch, a light dressing of tarmarind and chili are added to the mix. The first initial mouthfuls are a spicy delight with the mixture of contrasting tastes and textures playing a symphony in my mouth. But midway through the meal, the heat of red chilis slightly overwhelmed my taste buds to the point where I was tasting less and just sweating more. (I realize it was my fault. Against the recommendation of my server, I asked for a spicy level normally reserved for chili-proof Thais.)

I need to cool things down a bit. Served with a fragrant bowl of steaming jasmine rice and made with coconut milk, I was hoping that the Massaman Gaeh or Massaman Lamb Curry (P395) would help cool down some of the burn. Slowly braised in a light curry, cubes of tender lamb are cooked with a healthy serving of shallots, potatoes and peanuts. This curry was simply delectable. Even when we had consumed ever bit of lamb, potato and peanut, I could not help myself from drizzling the curry gravy over my rice, savoring every last drop of goodness on each grain. Hands down, to eat this dish again is enough reason to return to AzuThai.

Massaman Lamb Curry

On perception alone, I am always skeptical of restaurants like AzuThai that take traditional cuisines and try to jazz it up with non-traditional plating and/or cooking techniques. Most restaurants fail at this horribly while only a precious few seem to get this mix of old and new in harmonious balance. AzuThai is happily part of the latter.

I ended my meal filled with a sense of comfort as if I had been wrapped in warm blanket, ready for an afternoon nap.

AzuThai
Ground Floor
Milky Way Building
900 A Arnaiz Avenue (Pasay Road)
Tel: (02) 817 6252 or (02) 813 0671

The Travelling Table: Marché

When you walk into Marché 313@somerset mall, you’ll kind of feel disoriented, to say the least. From the outside, you see this green restaurant amidst Singapore's urban jungle. Just another one of the better bakeries in the city, you could say to yourself. A few steps in, down a spiral staircase, and you’re suddenly surrounded by centuries-old pine logs taken from Swiss mountain cabins, flown in and painstakingly reassembled by craftsmen. Antiques and Goldilocks chairs complete the cozy Swiss Alpine house feel. And while this is sounding like Marché is all about being a European looking theme-restaurant, it’s definitely not.

Marché’s concept is to deliver fresh and healthy food fast. It’s a multi-awarded restaurant chain whose vision is “to become the freshest gastronomy business in all of Europe.” (I think the word “Europe” should now be replaced with “the world.” They’re all over Europe but are now actively expanding in Asia). Hence it emphasizes regional and seasonal ingredients wherever they happen to be located. Everything is prepared on site--from bread dough to hand-squeezed fresh juices. Nothing comes from commissaries.

There’s a seasonal salad and vegetable station, which literally offers market fresh produce that is cooked per order. There’s a homemade pasta/ravioli station as well as a wood-fired brick oven that churns out great pizzas. There’s even a crêperie. At the center of the market is an apple wood grill where a good selection of sausages, lamb, pork and beef can be found. To the side of it is the rösti station where there’s always a long line. The dessert station serves freshly baked cakes and pastries as well as Mövenpick ice cream.

The problem with having too many choices is that it leaves you with analysis-paralysis. I suggest one does a walk-around before ordering anything.

For lunch I had some rösti, French garlic sausages, sautéed mushrooms with balsamic vinegar and parsley, a two-foot long pine nut-crusted sourdough bread stick with grain mustard and some freshly squeezed calamansi juice (I told you they served regional produce as well). All of it wonderful. Nothing was oily. The rösti, which was easy to drench in grease, had nothing but a pleasant hint of bacon. The mushrooms were cooked just so, still plump and earthy.

Marché employs a magnetic strip card system in which your orders are swiped in a “credit card” (handed to you upon entry) at every station you place an order at. After your meal you then check out by swiping the same card at the cashier’s to find out the total damage. Quite efficient, yes but it’s also very easy to get carried away swiping at every counter you find interesting. I had to remind myself a few times that it wasn’t a buffet. At the end of the day I totally get what Marché stands for and it’s definitely a better alternative to the many quick service restaurants out there in terms of food quality and healthy offerings.

Marché 313@Somerset
Level 1
Discovery Walk
313 Orchard Road
Singapore
Tel: (65) 6834 4041
Fax: (65) 6509 6104

Table Conversation: Turning Japanese

Uni Sashimi from Inagiku

There is an allure to eating your food raw.

While the notion of eating food uncooked may seem odd to many people, the Japanese have taken this idea and brought it to whole new level. With creation of sashimi and sushi, they have made an indelible contribution to world cuisine. But let's focus on the local...

I love the raw stuff. From intimate spaces like Hatsu Han-Tei and Kai to sumptuous pleasure domes like Inagiku and Umu, I am not one to deprive my craving. But with the explosion of sushi/sashimi dining options, finding the 'good stuff' has become a challenge. I'm always looking to upgrade my sushi/sashimi experience. So I figured who better to ask than my fellow judges for Spot Gold Awards. So I ask the question:

When you get the a craving for sushi or sashimi, where do you go?

JJ Yulo says:

Well, I have to say that my sushi/sashimi eating has gotten a bit complex -- in the sense that I think we're catching and consuming way too much of it (to put it simply, I want my kids to be able to enjoy sushi when they get older too!) ... having said that, I don't really subject myself to cheap sushi anymore. When I get a craving, I make sure it's high quality -- so I head of to Inagiku (my fave sushi spot) or Tzukiji (where I get my sashimi fix).

Serving Up the Sushi at Kai

Chef Him Uy De Baron says:

Someone I trust. I'm the consultant for East Cafe in Rustan's Makati and we serve sushi/sashimi and maki's so that's where I get my raw fish fix. Aside from that, trusted hotel buffet's because you know its fresh.

Cherie Gil says:

I want to go to New York City. But alas I'm in Manila so I opt for Umu or Sushi Kappo.

More Sashimi from Inagiku

Chef Aileen Anastacio says:

For sushi and sashimi, I go to Sugi. It's like my second home. my store Goodies n' Sweets used to be across it when it was still at the crossroad arcade in Greenhills so i go there when i get the sushi/sashimi craving.

I also like Kikufuji in Makati. Prices are reasonable and serving portions are pretty generous.

Becky Kho says:

Tsumura! I just had dinner there last night and I had the absolute pleasure of rediscovering how creative and masterful Chef Tsumura really is.

To vote for your favorite restaurants for the Spot Gold Awards, please click here.

Much thanks to JJ Yulo, Chef Him Uy De Baron, Cherie Gil, Aileen Anastacio and Becky Kho

Kai
Unit I-112
Greenbelt 5
Ayala Center
Makati City
Tel: (02) 757 5209

Inagiku
Level 2
Shangri-La Hotel Manila
Ayala cor Makati Avenue
Makati City
Tel: (02) 813 8888
Fax: (02) 813 5499

Table Suggestions: Jonesen for Mr. Jones

My Kryptonite: The Superman Burger

Remember the diner craze of the early 90s?

For those of you not old enough to remember, there was a point in time when would-be Manila restaurateurs were all taken in by the idea of the 1950s diner. It almost seemed like everyone’s mother’s uncle owned one of these faux art deco eateries of chrome and linoleum paying homage to an American era long past. At these local diners, American fast food was king and a cheeseburger with fries and vanilla milkshake were always the meal du jour. Sadly, most of these Manila diners never really got their food quite right. The word bland comes to mind.

In the end, like many other food crazes (pearl milk tea, shawarma, lechon manok come to mind), the diner concept was all but doomed to extinction…

Tater Tots to the Max

Fast forward to 2009. The diner may have been given a new lease on life. The Raintree Group, the same people responsible for Chelsea, Momo and M Café, just opened a restaurant called Mr. Jones. Gone are the gleaming white linoleum, overused deco design and the 50s Americana. In its place, Mr. Jones with its high ceilings, golden fabric-covered walls, sea foam green diner chairs and hot rod red booths is bring a modernized 60s hipster vibe to the old idea of a diner, making it new, more upscale and possibly even cool again.

The Overload

We started with quick, playful appetizer called Tater Tots to the Max 3000(P220). Thumb-sized, cylindrical mashed potatoes snacks are stuffed with a variety of fillings from broccoli to Jamon Serrano and Gorgonzola to walnuts. Deep-fried and dipped in a choice of Cheddar or sour cream and chives, these little 'tots' add a delectable crunch to the start of our meal.

Wanting something more Pinoy, we just had to try Mr. Jones' take on a breakfast classic, the Beef Tapa and Garlic Overload (P295). This dish is not so much a meal as it is more like a small mountain of marinated, pan-fried strips of beef topping an equally generous amount of garlic-infused rice. If that is not enough garlic flavor, chips of thinly sliced garlic garnish this seemingly boundless dish. Did we forget to mention it comes with eggs as well? In fact, there was so much food on the plate that halfway through the meal, A. had to relent--no mas.

I love my pork more than most. So for me to order the Grilled Maple Glazed Pork Chops with Applesauce (P420) was a no-brainer. Maybe it was the maple glaze, the apple and apricot sauce or the bed of spiced pumpkin puree but every bite just felt like a bombardment of sweetness. It was so sweet that I wondered if this meat dish would have been off being placed dessert menu. Where is my porky goodness, Mr. Jones?

What is a diner meal without a deliciously, heart-attack inducing cheeseburger and french fries.?On this diner staple, Mr. Jones delivers in spades with The Superman Burger(P420). A fire-grilled beef patty, topped with melted American Cheddar and crispy smoked bacon and served in between a toasty warm, sesame seed bun, this sandwich is a hamburger lover's decadent wet dream.

Seating around Mr. Jones

Yes, it is relatively expensive. But every dish is a deliciously more than substantial meal. Sharing is more than encouraged. It's a necessity. I may not have cared much for 90s diner food craze but Mr. Jones just might have changed my opinion that good eats are possible at your local diner. Give it a try. It just might surprise you.

Much thanks to Michael Wisniewski for the photographs

Mr. Jones
Ground Level
Greenbelt 5, Makati City
Tel: (02) 501-3682, (02) 501-3683
Email: eat@mrjonesrestaurant.com

Table Suggestions: Sala Bistro

Italian Seafood and Fish Stew

First impressions never tell the whole story.

I first dined at Sala Bistro a few months after its opening. It was a memorable meal for all the wrong reasons. An unsure service staff and food that was bland to point of being boring made dining at Sala Bistro an almost forgettable experience. Every mouthful was a constant reminder as to why diners should try newly-opened restaurants with a grain of sea salt. No matter how ready a restaurant seems for opening, there will always be ‘issues’.

Fast forward to last weekend. For whatever reason, A. and I decide to give Sala Bistro another try. I began my dinner with a hearty bowl of Tomato, Basil and Bread Soup (P280), immediately followed by a flavorful dish of Italian Seafood and Fish Stew (P780) and topped it all off with a decadent Ice Cream Sampler (P260) made up of scoops of Rum Raisin, Honeycomb, Banana Caramel. Rarely has a single meal been so scrumptious that it actually profoundly changed my opinion about a restaurant. Coupled with service that was courteous, informed, attentive and yet casual in their approach, this dinner was memorable for all the right reasons.

Rum Raisin, Honeycomb and Banana Caramel

Most establishments require time to find their footing, improve their service and blossom to restaurants they have the potential of being. You should never write anything off because of a less-than-stellar first impression.

In my opinion, Sala Bistro is now one of best restaurants in Metro Manila.

Sala Bistro
Ground Floor - Garden Side
Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center
Makati City, Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 729 4888/ (02) 729 7500
Fax: (02) 719 4993
Email: info@salabistro.com
Web: www.salabistro.com

Eating Indian: Indian by Nature

Chicken Butter Masala

It's kind of funny how I ended up going to Indian by Nature because those exact words are probably what some people would use to describe me. This is mainly because my best friend M is Indian, and her family has practically adopted me. I am fascinated by Indian culture, and was thrilled that my bridal shower (organized by my best friend) was Indian-inspired. I even have a built-in bindi (sort of Harry Potter-esque), and an Indian visitor once joked that if I ever visited India, I would be propped up on an elephant and paraded around like a princess.

But for all my semi-Indian-ness, there wasn't much I knew about Indian food. I pretty much just ate what my "foster mother" cooked, no questions asked. I'd be told what it was, but I would soon forget and just chow down.

The prospect of trying out an Indian resto thus both excited me and intimidated me. I liked all the stuff I had tried over the years (even the stuff that M and her sister passed on, and that their dad happily sent my way) but I realized I had no idea what authentic Indian food was supposed to taste like. So what was I to do but drag M along on this assignment?

On our little Indian by Nature dinner date, I learned three things about Indian food.

1. Indian food comes in four main colors.

Beside each dish on the menu was a parentheses, indicating its color. A dish could be one of four colors: red, green, yellow, or brown. Unfortunately, I ignored these helpful little notes and ended up with a very red tabletop. The only things that were non-red were the complimentary bowls of chutney served alongside free papadum. Not exactly a well-rounded meal. Should've asked R, a hard-core veggie Indian friend, to tag along.

Chicken Kathi Roll

M and I started off with the Chicken Kathi Roll—toasted pita bread with fresh veggies and chicken, "cooked in Indian spices and herbs." M's verdict? It was good, but had a little too much ginger for her taste. I asked her where she's had the best chicken kathi roll ever. I was fully expecting her to say somewhere in Mumbai. But instead, she replied, "New York. You know those little carts on the street?" Hmmm.

Next up in our Parade of Red: the Paneer Tikka. Described as "pieces of cottage cheese, capsicum, onion, and tomato cooked in famous Indian Tandoori flavor," they were essentially big cubes of slightly crumbly cheese covered in a thin, subtly crispy shell of spices (all red). It's been a while so my memory could be playing tricks on me, but right now I'm salivating just thinking about it!

While we were deciding on our main dish, the Indian chef came out to greet us. I'm not sure if he does this all the time, or if the waiters just told him that there was an Indian guest. (In fact, the waiters seemed to love the fact that M was there, telling her about their mostly Indian clientele, and about the Bollywood star who was in town recently.) Chef could see that we hadn't made up our minds, so he suggested the Chicken Tikka Masala. M reasoned that the chef would know best, so we took his word for it and ordered his recommendation. The boneless chicken cubes were swimming in a sea of masala sauce, made of secret Indian spices of course. I think I would have really liked this dish if only I hadn't had similar flavors earlier on.

2. Indian food is all about the spices.

This I already knew--walking through Little India (possibly my favorite place in Singapore) is enough to tell you that spices, glorious spices, are an indelible part of Indian cuisine. M's first comment when she walked into India by Nature? "I could really smell the spices." As soon as you walk through the door, you catch a whiff—nay, a blast of the powders and seeds and secret sauces in the kitchen. It's sort of like entering Jollibee where you immediately detect that Yum Burger smell, only here, the aroma is stronger and seems more...natural.

Paneer Tikka

3. Not everyone agrees what "authentic" Indian food is supposed to taste like.

Our other Indian friend, T, called over dinner. "What are you doing there? I really don't like it there!" she told me. "What exactly about it don't you like?" I asked her, curious—why doesn't this Indian like Indian by Nature? She replied, "It's too...spice-y."

As we hung up the phone, I asked M about what real Indian food is supposed to be. Is it not supposed to be that flavorful? She thought for a minute. "Even in India, my massis (aunts) ask the cooks to lessen the spices. But I guess it's really like this," she remarked.

So I figured that it really is just a matter of preference. Just as there are a hundred different ways to cook adobo, there's not a single way that, say, masala "should" be done. And in the end, if the meal tickles your palate, and leaves you satisfied and rubbing your belly, authentic or not, it's pretty much done its job.

Indian by Nature
2nd Level
Jupiter Place
Jupiter St.
Makati, Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 484 9629

Eating Indian: Swagat

I had expected to see Ms. Khanchandani as we entered Swagat. Not that I know her personally. And not that she would even know who the dickens I was. But I’ve actually been to this place several times when it opened a few years back and noticed her around even back then. She’d personally greet diners and often asked Indian food first timers if they needed any help maneuvering the quite extensive menu. She’d then disappear out back where I assume she’d cook the orders. This place was a tight ship. A one-woman-show.

So maybe a year or two has passed and found ourselves again faced with Mrs. K. This time, though, I asked her if she could order for us. Initially letting us know of the “best-sellers” (a term that turns me off in restaurants), I told her we didn’t care for them and would like to sample some food she would order herself if she were in our position. A bit taken aback she leafed through the menu and recommended the following: Onion Bhajia, Chicken Tikka Masala, Shrimps Masala, Buttered Naan and Palak Paneer.

Ok, so this wasn’t quite the lineup I was expecting. Given the exhaustive list of vegetarian and non-vegetarian items on the menu, I would’ve assumed to have gotten a less “common” selection of dishes. And something a little more "kosher" than Chicken Tikka Masala (because last time I checked this dish in fact has roots in Glasgow, which is not anywhere near the Ganges). But, oh well, we decided to go along with it. Maybe there was a reason why she picked them out.

In all fairness, the Onion Bhajia (P100) were excellent; a fine example of properly fried fritters. Not at all greasy and was fluffy on the insides. The Chicken Tikka (P225) and Shrimps Masala (P180) were good in that you could tell the ingredients were fresh and the meats were fork-tender. The spices were spot on, although I did think it needed a bit more heat after stating we wanted the dishes “medium spicy”. I hardly broke a sweat. The Palak Paneer (P125) was undoubtedly home made; the cheese soft as opposed to being rubbery. My only gripe would probably be food quantity. Four dishes, not including the Butter Naan (P70), between two moderate eaters and we were still hungry. Could it have been the hunger fueled by drinking a whole 650ml bottle of 7.2% alc ,Kingfisher (P225) by myself on an empty stomach? I doubt it, as my petite companion, who normally eats like a bird, was asking the same question. There was a lot of gravy but, really, where was the beef?

So I order dessert, which I don’t normally do, hoping to top things off. And as seemingly unappealing as the Kulfi (P90) may have looked, like shaved shingles in a tiny cup, I found it quite perfect to end a heavily spiced meal with. Rich, dense, milky, nutty and sweet; spiced as well but just cut across the heavier tasting past dishes.

No question, I found the appetizer and dessert quite satisfactory. The in betweens left a bit of a question mark. Not to say it was a regrettable meal. I just had unfairly higher expectations of this place this visit. But now I do remember what Swagat is all about. It’s definitely not about extravagant ghee drenched Indian food (which was sort of what I wanted at that time...and still do). It’s about providing authentic, home-cooked Indian food for those who miss it, who need a fix; with the no frills atmosphere. And if that’s the type of Indian food you’re looking for then this place definitely delivers. However, I do suggest you delve into the loads of more interesting items on the menu.

Swagat Indian Cuisine
119 FCC Building, Rada Street
Legaspi Village, Makati City
Tel: (02) 501-5079 or (02) 752-5669
Fax: (02) 888-2560
Email: kkhanchandani2000@yahoo.com

Eating Indian: Queens of Earthly Delights

I don’t know much about Indian food.

Foodie friends knowledgeable in all things Indian believe that you cannot have an authentic meal in Metro Manila. Only an invitation to an Indian household would come anywhere near a true Indian meal. Sadly, those are few and far between. So I am left with only one other option, dining out.

You would think that with Indian food being a world cuisine and with an ever-growing community in Manila, an Indian restaurant should be in every area of the city. Sadly, you would be wrong. There are a few, mostly concentrated within the central business district of Makati.

After a little bit of discussion, my friends (the same ones who said you couldn’t get a decent meal) relent and provide me with a short list of restaurants to choose from. With my friend M in tow, we decide to have lunch at the oddly named restaurant called Queens Crystal Garden.

With its Chinese-sounding name, muted golden interiors and floor to ceiling windows, one cannot be faulted for thinking that it is a Cantonese restaurant. But it isn’t. While most perceive Queens to be an Indian restaurant, its menu says otherwise. The first part of the menu is a hodge-podge of Southeast Asia cuisine: Malayan, Indonesian and even (if memory serves) at bit of Chinese thrown into the mix. The other part of menu is all-Indian. Queens calls it Asian Fusion. I call it hedging their bets (a manifestation of buffet mentality, perhaps).

When it comes to the ways of Indian cuisine, M and I are relatively ignorant. So we do what any customer faced with a menu of unusual names and unfamiliar dishes would do, we ask the waiting staff. But faced with congenially sincere and yet uninformative responses (such as “Sir/Ma’am, everything is good”), we are left to rely on little crowns (this is Queens after all) marking restaurant recommendations on the menu as guides.

Having tried our fair share of Indian breads, M and I decide to try something unusual, the Naan Pudima (P110). Naan, a flat bread baked in the heated sides of a tandoor oven, is fairly common in most Indian menus. But what makes our order unique is a thin layer of finely minced mint leaves baked into crust. Crisp on the outside and yet pillowy soft on the inside, the Naan Pudima with its minty aftertaste was the perfect foil (and utensil) to the spicy dishes that were to follow.

The rest of our dishes arrive at the same time. The Paneer Makhaniwala (P300) is a dish of firm cubes of white cheese cooked in a fragrant stew of tomatoes, cream, clarified butter and chilies. A regional specialty of Kashmir, Rogan Josh (P420) is mutton slow stewed in a deeply flavorful masala sauce with saffron and yoghurt. Lastly, the Reshmi Kebab (P350) are cuts of chicken breasts marinated in a ‘homemade’ spice rub and quickly grilled on a skewer in a tandoor oven.

We absolutely enjoyed the rich, intricate layers of flavors of the Paneer Makhaniwala and the Rojan Josh. But what truly was as delectable surprise was the Reshmi Kabab. The generous cubes of chicken breast (a difficult cut to cook) were perfectly grilled. Tender juicy and yet thoroughly cooked through, the chicken had just enough piquant kick to keep things interesting. My only issue with the meal (which was no fault of the restaurant) was that we should have not been such wimps and opted for dumbed-down spiciness. Asking for “Medium hot, please.” was a mistake.

I don’t know much about Indian food. I do know what enjoy eating and I love the delights of Queens Crystal Garden. But next time, I’m going to ask them to bring on the heat.

Queens Crystal Garden Restaurant
146 Jupiter Street
Barangay Bel-Air
Makati City
Tel: (02) 895 1316 or (02) 895 1816

Table Suggestions: Revisiting Sala

The Salad of Crispy Lobster Tail

Being a food blogger has its benefits.

One of them is the continuing motivation to discover the new and undocumented culinary experiences the world has to offer. The downside? The seemingly never-ending need to discover the new and undocumented culinary experience the world has to offer. Simply put, it’s a double-edged sword.

I love my Eggs Benedict from Mamou. I crave for my double beef patty burger from Charlie’s. I adore my Peking Duck from Shang Palace. As much as I would like to keep talking about these experiences, I cannot. It would probably bore you (and me) to death.

Which brings us to topic of Sala Restaurant. Many of you who are of my age bracket will remember that Sala was a fixture of the defunct Remedios dining scene of the 90’s. At the time, Sala was an oasis of tranquil sophistication in Malate’s sea of boisterous bars and oh-so-trendy restaurants. I had dined at the old location more than a few times before their move to their current abode. But sadly, I always felt a little poorer (literally and figuratively) for the experience. I am not saying that Chef Colin Mckay’s food was not delicious or that his restaurant was not understatedly stunning. But Sala always left me wanting more. In the end, I became cool to the idea of eating at Sala ever again.

from top left, clockwise
Goat Cheese Crostini, Vodka with a Lime Twist,
Poached Beef Tenderloin with Celeriac Gratin, Sala's Table Setting

Things have changed.

Now, nestled in the heart of Manila’s corporate district and with a new executive chef (Chef Carlo Miguel of retired Mezzaluna) running the kitchen, Sala has moved on to become a favorite of the corporate expense account and the ladies who lunch crowd. Sala is not a scream but a whisper. Its somewhat out-of-the-way location (away from the malls) and cool, minimalist interiors speak of the soul of this restaurant. One does not think about going to Sala. One decides to go. It is a ‘destination’ restaurant that highlights the sublime and simple elegance of dining out.

Tonight, we are treating ourselves to Sala’s Tasting Menu (P1800 without wine tasting)–a five-course meal showcasing the best of Sala’s menu. After a quick amuse bouche, a Crostini topped with Goat Cheese and Orange Salt, we are served our first two courses in quick succession, a Salad of Crispy Lobster Tail accompanied by a Corn Puree and Roasted Pepper Salsa and a Lavender Smoked Duck Breast with Shaved Foie Gras, Pear and Truffled Dressing. These starting courses are an odd yet delectable duo. While the ‘Salad’ of Crispy Lobster Tail does not comfortably fit into the definition of a salad (lacking the expected greens), the Smoked Ducked Breast seemed to be more of a salad course with the smoked duck thinly sliced over a bed of peppery arugula. But beyond their descriptions, each dish deliciously spoke to the importance of contrasting textures and well-balanced flavors. Next, we have two main courses: a fish course of Olive Oil Poached Swordfish and meat course of Red Wine Poached Angus Beef Tenderloin. Each dish is visually simplistic and yet each bite reveals new depths of tastes within each dishes.We end our meal with dessert, a Raspberry and Passion Fruit Baked Alaska. It could have been a letdown to end the meal with such cliché of a dessert. But after savoring it, there is something comforting finishing with ice cream encased in a soft, slight browned meringue balanced by the tangy sweetness of both the raspberry coulis and passion fruit sauce.

Raspberry and Passion Fruit Baked Alaska

Expensive? Relatively. Pretentious? Maybe a little. But this bright gastronomical light in the center of Manila’s stodgy corporate center is a dining experience that can easily match any in the world and it is a meal that should not be missed.

Franco Note: I am in mourning. Gourmet Magazine is dead. Another victim of the global recession. To find out more, click here.

Sala Restaurant
Podium Level
LV Locsin Building
6752 Ayala Ave cor. Makati Ave
Makati City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 750 5159
Fax: (02) 751 9424
Email: info@salarestaurant.com
Website: www.salarestaurant.com

Table Conversation: Settling for Senju

Hiroshima Kaki Motoyaki

Please don’t think of me a snob.

No one just settles on a restaurant like Senju. Compared to other Japanese restaurants in Manila, Senju is a standout. From its minimalist design to beautifully executed cuisine, you would be hard pressed to find a restaurant that did Japanese food any better. This post is really not about Senju itself but why A and I ended up having to find consolation in box of sushi and platter of unagi.

from top left, clockwise
Senju sushi bar, Chirashi Sushi, Senju Interiors, Edemame in Bowl

On any other night, I would have loved to eat here but this was not the plan. A and I were hoping for something different. Something more Italian. We were hoping to be transported to fields of Tuscany as we dined at the restaurant next door, Paparazzi.

But sadly, this was not going to happen. Not that night anyway. I will not bore you with details. Suffice to say, we were victims of bad communications.

Sometimes, it's not just about the food. As the restaurant industry grows and evolves in the Philippines, the importance of service becomes paramount. No amount of apologies or offers of free meals can make up for ruined evening of bad service. The best thing that any restaurant can do is provide the best dining experience they can for each and every one of their guests.

We, as paying customers, deserve it.

Senju
Mezzanine Floor
Edsa Shangrila
1 Garden Way
Ortigas Centre
Mandaluyong City 1650
Telephone: (02) 633 8888 ext. 2738/2739

Table Suggestions: Dessert Break at MoMo Food + Drink

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Cheesecake

I’m stuck in Manila.

I rarely I find my self in the city of Manila. So when the opportunity to explore the flavors of the oldest part of the city presents itself, I grab it. Sadly, I’m in between meetings and I only have time for a cup of coffee and a couple of desserts.

I’m fine with that. Besides as a friend of mine would say, dessert should always come first.

I’m headed to Robinson’s Manila and a little place called MoMo Food+Drink. Brought to you by the same people who created M Café, MoMo is corner café in the new wing of the mall. With its high exposed ceiling and wall-to-wall glass windows, this eatery exudes a New Yorkesque, lofty feel–a stand out in Manila’s urban jungle.

MoMo Food+Drink reminds me of something. I look at the menu on the wall and I realize it feels like Chelsea Café and Market–an array of comfort foods: brunch items, pastas, pizzas, sandwich, hot and cold drinks.

Smores Bar

We order two desserts. The first is a play on a favorite of mine. Momo’s Smore Bar (P55) is breakdown of an American campsite snack. A chocolate brownie is topped with a viscous marshmallow sauce then finished with a tiny graham cracker square. This dessert excites me but something is lost in translation. All classic flavors are all there but once you bite into the bar ,it becomes layers upon layers of soft. A Smorish mush.

The Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Cheesecake (P115) was thankfully another story. The only thing I love more than a Chocolate Chip Cookie is a large scoop of Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Ice Cream and this dessert is as close to that one can get. Shaped like a lovely, oversized cookie sandwich, this cheesecake’s tastes deliver on its visual promise. Light, lovingly layered in flavors yet straightforward and scrumptious, I could have eaten two more by myself.

A hit and a miss. Yet my experience at MoMo Food+Drink was like a relaxing oasis in a sea of concrete. Would I return? Absolutely. I’m looking forward to getting stuck in Manila again.

MoMo: Food + Drink
Robinsons Place Manila
Manila Midtown Wing
Telephone : (02) 567 3417

The Travelling Table: Lunch at Bo Innovation

Ox Tail Xiao Lung Bao

I’m in Hong Kong and I’m feeling a bit daring.

With his long, jet black hair, tattooed arms and his cutaway chef’s jacket, one could easily mistake Chef Alvin Leung for a retired rock star rather than what he is known for today, the celebrated head chef and owner of Bo Innovation.

After enthralling dinner guests at his private home, Chef Leung had an inspiration and decided to open a private kitchen. Private kitchens are a long-standing trend in China in which amateur cooks open their kitchens and homes to paying guests. This way, these would-be restaurateurs avoid not only the pitfalls of astronomical rental prices but also expensive government fees. In 2003, Bo Innoseki was born. Five years on and both Chef Leung and his idea for a private kitchen have grown and evolved.

Black Truffle Cheung Fun

Once, Bo Innoseki. Now, Bo Innovation. The once private is now a sleekly designed, 58 seater restaurant in Hong Kong’s Wai Chai district. And after only five years, Chef Leung’s idea was awarded two stars by the inaugural edition of the Hong Kong/Macau Michelin Guide--one of only seven restaurants in the guide who can claim such an honor. Here is an interesting note. In the history of the Michelin Guide, there have only been two restaurants helmed by (mostly) self-taught chefs that have won stars: one is Chef Leung and the other is no less than Chef Heston Blumenthal of the revered Fat Duck. An amazing achievement by Chef Leung, an amateur cook whose day job was acoustics engineering.

The lunch begins with a choice of dim sum dishes, a luxurious twist on two tea house favorites. Normally served with a stuffing of pork, Bo Innovation takes a different approach to the 'soupy' dumpling. Their Xiao Lung Bao is stuffed with a filling of shredded oxtail, taking this common dish to a completely new direction. If that was not enough, each dumpling is topped with a dollop of extravagant Arvuga caviar. The hawker stand staple Cheung Fun is given its own improvement with the addition of black truffles. An appealing yet far too subtle flavor.

Roasted Duck Char Siu

Next is the main course. Char siu is a dish of barbeque pork. But at Bo Innovation, this common roast is made with succulent duck. Served on a bed of thinly sliced bamboo shoots coated in pesto sauce, theses cuts of Roasted Duck Char Siu are covered in sweet barbeque sauce and topped with a tangy coulis of pureed mandarin.

To close this delicious meal are two desserts du jour. The first dessert is a little cornet topped with a scoop of Kumquat and Butterscotch Ice Cream. Light and refreshing, one wishes there was more. And finally to cap the meal, an interesting Black Sesame Drink infused with soda, served in shot glass and sipped with a little, black straw. Savor it slowly because it disappears quickly.

Black Sesame Dessert Drink

Bo Innovations has been touted the El Bulli of Asia. While Chef Leung has created a sophisticated dining experience at Bo Innovation, I honestly can’t agree or disagree with that claim. However, what I do understand from this little taste is that Chef Leung has taken his unbridled passion for Chinese cuisine and turned it on it head, creating a menu is not only intriguing but delightful delicious as well. I have only scratched the surface of what is possible at Bo Innovation. A more extensive return meal is a not option, it is a necessity.

Bo Innovations
Shop 13
2nd Floor J Residence,
60 Johnston Road, Wan Chai
Hong Kong
(Private life entrance on 18 Ship Street)
Telephone: (852) 285 0837
Email: dine@boinnovation.com
Website: www.boinnovation.com

The Luxe : Lacking in Lusso

from top left, clockwise
Strawberry Trifle, Luxe Mac and Cheese, Lusso Burger and Asiago Fries

The idea of luxury and excess is considered vulgar during these times of financial turmoil. Conspicuous consumption that was the norm just a few years ago is now taboo. So how do we now indulge in our favorite past times without feeling guilty or offending other people?

Lusso, Margarita Fores’ new restaurant concept in Greenbelt 5 which also means “luxe” in Italian, is what she likes to tout as luxury with a conscience. The place invokes Old World opulence with its ornate Murano Chandelier from the old Manila Peninsula mixed with mid-century furniture our grandparents had during their heyday. This somewhat yin-yang theme carries through their food selection which is rich and opulent yet their prices are far from intimidating.

The menu is chockfull of what we can call “comfort food”, diner-style selections of burgers, French fries, macaroni and cheese, and shepherd’s pies but done with luxurious touches. We zeroed in on four things that stood out in the menu.

We started off with Asiago Fries with Truffle-Infused Salt (P195). Huge potato wedges hand-cut with the skin on, the appetizer is served in an elegant white ensemble topped with a mild asiago. Hearty but lacks punch, the French fries, although topped with high quality cheese and fancy salt, were forgettable and needed more flavor. In fact, we had to ask for an extra serving of the truffle-infused salt.

Next came the much-publicized Demi-Pound Lusso Burger (P595)–US Angus Beef with foie gras topped with prosecco onions and served with a cambozola broth. Being self-confessed burger and foie gras junkies, the thought of melding our two favorites was almost too perfect. I asked for the burger to be cooked medium but it came very red. The foie gras core, though, melted away into oblivion and was hardly a factor in the experience. Cambozola broth was a mystery. Confused as to whether it was a burger topping or a dip for the fries, the idea, although seemingly ingenious, was lost in translation. Of note is the bread, crusty to the bite but soft and chewy inside. I can just imagine the bread to be perfect with freshly churned French butter.

My companion ordered the Macaroni and Cheese with Pancetta and Three Cheeses (P365). A staple for young Americans and budget-conscious college students, this dish is THE comfort food. Expecting a dish that conjured childhood memories, Lusso’s version was milky, mild and tempered. The pancetta was only present in between bites.

We ended the meal with the Strawberry Trifle (P250) which is sadly another blase affair. Made with what seems to be just ordinary whipped cream, traditional English trifles are made of rich pudding and very tasty pound cake. Lusso’s trifle was similar to our crème de fruta. No visions of English country houses and jodhpurs here.

What saved our night was the bubbly and lively conversation. Lusso is a place where one hopes to be beamed into a world of affluence and mirth only to be brought straight back to reality.

Much thanks to Grace Velasco of Divasoria

Lusso
G/F Greenbelt 5
Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village
Makati City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 756 5893

The Luxe: Tastes to Textures

Beef Tartare from I'm Angus Steakhouse

What is the definition of luxury?

The answer can be somewhat fluid, to say the least. Ask 100 people on the street what luxury means and you will probably get 100 different answers. While definitions may vary from latest S Class Mercedes Benz to a pair of Christian Louboutin heels, they all return to the idea of value, what a person values in their life. Given that I write for this blog, it should come as no surprise that my response would have something to do with food.

Let me dispel a notion. I enjoy the juicy goodness of thick, 'black and blue' ribeye or the rich, fatty flavor of pan-seared goose liver like any other person would. But for me, the meaning of luxury has nothing to do with price. It is all about the experience of food.

Take for example, having lunch with a fellow food lover at I'm Angus Steakhouse and not ordering a steak. While Lori had a hefty ax of pork, I had a somewhat unusual order of Beef Tartare (P720). While many would find it repugnant to eat this dish of raw minced beef mixed with the pungent, tart flavors of onions and capers and aggressively seasoned with ground black pepper and Worcestershire sauce, I reveled in tucking into it. Over a hearty conversation about family, friends and of course food, I savored every mouthful. Eating your beef raw was a very primal, textural experience.

Pancit Musiko from Adarna Food and Culture

I am a noodle fanatic. So as the days get cold and wet, I am always hankering to slurp a hot steaming bowl of noodles. I crave for my cold soba. I love my steaming ramen soup. I adore my pho. But my discovery of an Ilocano noodle dish might eclipse them all. They call it Pancit Musiko(P150). Served at Adarna Food and Culture, this dish is traditionally served to marching bands during local fiestas–thus, the name. These noodles are the definition of slow-cooking. It starts with a rich broth--enriched with the flavors from slowly (over a day, I am told) stewed pieces of pork and chicken and colored a deep reddish hue with achuete. Next, stubby custom-made egg noodles are lovingly nurtured into the broth. Cooking the noodles is a process of both give and take. While the noodles imbibe the taste of the soup, its starches help thicken the broth. Why is this dish a luxury? Simple because in this world of quick and immediate gratification, very few cook food like this anymore.

Pistachio on Butter Pecan Ice Cream from Sebastian's

How about licking up a scoop or two of my favorite ice cream, Sebastian's? I'm a nutty kind of guy. So having a scoop of Pistachio on top of Butter Pecan is not a difficult decision (P150 for a double scoop). The two flavors are distinct–a pale green, all-natural scoop decadently peppered with toasty pistachios and a smooth, buttery serving chockfull of crunchy pecans. And yet they are similar in their uncompromising creaminess and their rich depth of flavors and textures. Did I fail to mention the size of these scoops? They are so hefty that I could hear my waffle cone crack under the strain of their weight. Consuming the double scoop quickly was luxurious necessity that I would have no problems fulfilling.

So you can keep your It bags and fancy, Swiss watches, I’m off to savor all the wonderful tastes and textures the food world has to offer. Care to come along?

Thanks to Erik Lacson for the amazing Pancit Musiko photo.

I'm Angus Steakhouse
7431 Yakal Street
San Antonio Village, Makati City,
Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 892 6206

Adarna Food and Culture
119 Kalayaan Avenue,
Diliman, Quezon City.
Tel: (02) 926 8712

Sebastian's Ice Cream Studio
Food Choices
Glorietta 4
Makati City, Metro Manila

Eating Spanish by Our Table Guest, Miguel

Paella de Verduras by La Tienda

I lived in Barcelona for 20 years before moving back here for good in 1999 and I must say, at first I thought I would miss the food, wine and coffee that I used to have while I was living there. I am happy to admit that I was wrong. There are many good Spanish restaurants in town and what is better is there is also a large variety of Spanish wine locally available to pair your food with. In this post, I feature my three favorite Restaurants with the corresponding favorite dish.

The first one on my list would have to be La Tienda. With Chef Javi Lecumberri in the kitchen, this is definitely my favorite place. Javi is from San Sebastian (North of Spain-Food capital of Spain) and has been in the Philippines for more than 10 years. His cooking is simple and straight forward using the best ingredients possible. There are many dishes I love in La Tienda, but if I were to choose one, it would be Paella de Verduras con Arroz Basmati (Vegetable Paella with Basmati rice).It’s the Chefs own version of Paella using Basmati rice, making it lighter and very fragrant. Perfect with a bottle of Rioja wine. I have never tasted any Paella similar in Spain, specially served with Basmati rice, so this is one of the reasons I love this dish. It is also not so overpowering and loaded like other Paellas, so it serves as a side dish but could also be the main course at the same time.

Chuleton by Gaudi

My second favorite place is Gaudi, owned and operated by Xandra Cacho. Her cooking was greatly influenced by her family, who is also from San Sebastian. My favorite dish is the Chuleton (Grilled according to the methods of Villagodio). A huge 1 kilo cut of meat, specially aged, grilled and served on a hot stone plate with rock salt. Typical sidings are potatoes and Piquillo Peppers. The meat is grilled to lock in the juices and immediately sliced and served. Traditionally it is served on hot stone and the steak is cooked according to personal preference (rare, medium or well done) on the table. I particularly enjoy this with a Rioja wine or a red wine from the Priorato region in Catalunya. I have had many Chuletons in Spain (in basque Restaurants as well) and let me tell you, this one is as good if not better than the ones I have tried in Spain.

Chorizo on Piggy Back by Terry's Selection

My third pick is Terry's Selection in Pasong Tamo. Owned and managed by JC de Terry, he is authentic as it can get. Terry's is a perfect place for Tapas and wine. They have a great selection of Deli and wine to suit every ones preferences/taste. I normally like going there on a late afternoon for some Rosado wine (Rosé wine) and some tapas (Cheese, Cold cuts, etc..). One of the dishes I like most is the Chorizo on Piggy Back. It’s a home made Chorizo, served a on clay pot, then flame grilled til its cooked. It has the right amount of acidity, paprika and spices to make this a great dish. I also prefer this since there is not too much fat on it, unlike others. This dish is perfect with a little bread and some young Rioja wine or a Rosé like the Homenaje Rosado from Navarra.

Coincidence or not, the 3 dishes I chose are traditional Spanish with a little personal touch or twist from the Chefs…not too traditional but not too modern at the same time. It shows how food evolves constantly and even if it evolves, it can still be delicious.

Franco's Note: Much thanks to Miguel of Food and Wine of the World

La Tienda
43 Polaris Street
Bel-Air 3, Makati City
Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 890 4123

Gaudi
G/F Serendra
Mckinley Parkway
Bonifacio Global City
Taguig City, Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 856 0473

Terry's Selection
Building B, Karivin Plaza
2316 Pasong Tamo Extension
Makati City, Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 844 1816

Table Conversation: Sometimes They Do Read

The Rediscovered Interiors of 1521

I'm not sure about this.

I heard from a fairly reliable source that the owners of 1521 Restaurant decided to upgrade their eatery partly because of the overt comments made in the blogsphere. It was not about the food, but about their uninspired restaurant interiors.

I admit. I was a bit more harsh than usual about the look of 1521. It was only because I loved their food so much that it paled in comparison to the rest of the dining experience. I'm happy to report that after an extensive renovation, 1521 is now open for business once again.

I'll have the Brains, Please?

With a new look, new dishes on the menu and the same witty passion for Pinoy food, I have no doubt that you will be enjoying your next meal at 1521.

PS. Check out my interview with Hell Kitchen UK's Chef Marco Pierre White.

Thanks to Erik Lacson for the more than decent photos.

1521 Restaurant
547 Shaw Boulevard
Brgy. Wack-Wack
Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 794 0433