Showing posts with label On The Table. Show all posts
Showing posts with label On The Table. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

On The Table: Chinkee Clemente-Koppe


What can I say about this lady. Aside from being an accomplished food writer,
blogger and wife to hubby Matt, Chinkee is a very good friend. Despite a slight age difference, we have bonded through our love of good food and wine. C and I have had many dinner dates with Chinkee and Matt and we have thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. That our tastes are quite similar does help a lot, creating a mutual respect for each other's opinion: Most of the time, at least. She also helps run No. 38; a sports bar with live acts, good food and great drinks that is located along Jupiter Street. Let's take a quick peek into Chinkee's world:


Of all the things that you could write about why food?
Oh wow, where do I even begin? Of course, there’s the obvious- I love food. I grew up in a family that enjoys cooking and eating out. I bond with my family and friends over food. Therefore, I like to believe that I know enough about it to chronicle where and what I eat and make insightful observations about my gastronomic experiences.
Also, food is just a really fun topic. I discovered that I can put words together rather well when I was in college and it was always about serious things like world history and politics and international law. So, my initial foray into writing was mostly angst-filled rants about the government and my idealistic schemes on how to change the world. Eventually, I just got tired of being pissed off all the time and decided I wanted to write about things that make me smile. And food always does that for me.


Who are the food writers who inspire you and why?
Reading the columns of the late great Doreen Fernandez and Clinton Palanca was what got me interested in food writing in the first place. They taught me early on to have respect for the written word, to make the extra effort to always produce “publishable work” (Or at least try my hardest to), to have a style and own it. I hope I don’t offend anyone, but nobody on print has really captivated me like those two. For now, I get my fix from food blogs.


Many regional cuisines like Thai, Singaporean and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Pinoy food hasn't achieved the same global acclaim?
In my humble opinion, it’s probably because of two things: 1) bad aesthetics, and 2) bad marketing. I have said this before- to the uninitiated, our scrumptious kare-kare must look like this oily, brownish mess in a bowl. A lot of restaurants now seem to recognize the need to “prettify” our food, hence the deconstructing of stews and a greater focus on presentation, with the hope, of course, of not compromising taste.
Nevertheless, there is still the trouble of getting people to try them. Pinoy food is perceived more as a novelty. How many times have we been asked by US customs if we carry balut in our suitcases? Why is it that the foul-smelling durian gets more press than our equally-delicious but fragrant mangoes? We need to get the focus on the homey and addicting flavors that we grew up with, and away from the food that belong in “Fear Factor”. There are tons of other reasons- such as regionalism, identity crisis brought about by confusing colonial influences, etc.- but I believe it’s primarily those two things.


You have been writing your blog for over three years now, what changes have you observed in the local food scene over the years?
The Filipino palate has evolved so much. There are so many choices out there now, and the consumers have higher expectations from their grocers, deli owners and restauranteurs. Thanks to globalization, people are harder to fool- diners now know what a good rogan josh should taste like, or at what temperature sauvignon blanc should be served. This heightened awareness has made us more discerning that the food industry has also upped its game. It excites me when I eat abroad and I notice that Bouchon’s foie gras terrine tastes just like the one Chef Marc Aubry (of the now-defunct Je Suis Gourmand) makes. Imagine: we have the same level of quality and technique right on our doorstep! Nothing makes me prouder and happier.


What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?
For food blogs- I love Dessert Comes First, just because Lori writes so well and it still feels personal despite the fact that she’s one of the most popular local bloggers out there. For wine-related stuff and fine dining, I like to check out Eye On Wine- Noel’s wine notes cannot be beat, plus he gets to eat the best food out there. Same with Miguel of Food and Wine of the World- his job literally allows him to travel the globe where he gets to eat the most amazing dishes- everywhere from the local market to Michelin-starred restaurants. I also enjoy reading The Amats Project, which has a group of guys (I assume) reviewing the local watering holes and notable alcoholic drinks. They’re quite witty, and, I assume that they write when they are sober because the writing is pretty good.

I love watching Iron Chef, Top Chef, Barefoot Contessa, No Reservations and- my ultimate favorite at the moment- Man vs. Food!


If for example, one day, Anthony Bourdain calls you and asks to spend the day with you. where would you take him for breakfast, a mid-moring snack, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?
If I’m going to spend the day with Anthony Bourdain, who cares what I want?! We’ll do whatever he feels like doing! I’ll just be happy to bask in his awesomeness. At the end of the day, though, I will have to take him to our bar, where I’ll invite some close friends and we’ll just hang out with Tony (by then I suppose I’ll be allowed to call him that) and get him drunk on some really good lambanog we get from Mauban, Quezon. Imagine all the cool stories he will tell!


After hearing stories told to me by your loving and devoted hubby Matt, your love for cooking is very evident. Please tell our readers what is your signature dish?
I love pasta, so I have quite a few pasta recipes up my sleeve. I also do a pretty mean beef goulash, something I learned to make for Matt since he used to eat that a lot back in Germany.


What junk food do you love?
I grew up on Shakey’s thin crust Manager’s Choice pizza, and I am not ashamed to admit that I indulge in Jollibee’s Spaghetti and Chicken Joy Meal when I am hungover. Fishballs were taboo in our home when I was young, so maybe that’s why I eat it with gusto every time I get the chance. And- oh my God- chicharon! But only the ones with the thick fatty layer, otherwise- what’s the point?

Is there a food that you just can't seem to enjoy?
Ampalaya (bitter melon) and okra. Those vegetables just have flavors and textures that do not belong in one’s mouth.


Can you give three tips to aspiring food bloggers?
There is really only one thing to remember, and everything else will follow: respect. This respect will force you to produce well-written entries, with the belief that it is what is expected of you and that is what your readers deserve. Also, this will prevent you from being preachy and presumptuous. Nobody likes a bully and a know-it-all. Never impose your opinions on others, and do not be offended when others do not agree with you. As I have said once before, “one person’s Alain Ducasse can be another person’s Chef Boyardee”. Finally, when reviewing an establishment or a dish, always be conscientious that there is a person behind it. What you say can- no, it will- directly affect that person’s livelihood. Always be constructive with your criticism, never mean-spirited. On the other hand, be generous with praise when it is due. Nothing bad could possibly come out of being positive.


What are the future plans for Chinkee Clemente Koppe and One Big Bite?
Total world domination. An action figure. Maybe a couple of sex tapes. We’ll see.

Thursday, December 2, 2010

On the Table: Stephanie Zubiri


From being a food blogger, cooking instructor and food columnist of the Philippine Star to managing a full-time gourmet catering business, you could say Stephanie Zubiri has indeed immersed herself in the food world. And as if her plate weren't full enough, this dynamic twenty-something now also heads as editor in chief the newly launched Olive Magazine Philippines; a BBC title featuring fast and easy creative cooking, honest restaurant reviews and travel guides for the best eats locally and internationally. If there's something I wouldn't mind doing its eating and traveling for a living...


What was your childhood kitchen environment like?

We had an amazing kitchen with a large marble island. It was rather high up because it was one of those retro homes that was built with the main floor upstairs, so we had an amazing view or an undeveloped Alabang. My mom would make fresh pastas and apple pies. My sister loved to bake. She made the best banana bread and oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. As far as I could remember, the kitchen was one of my favorite places. I had my own mini kitchen tools, even my own set of plates for just my friends and I. I would experiment and make up pasta sauces and pester everyone. I got to eat what everyone else ate and not kiddie food. Never had mango bits to help me chew down my cold untouched food. It was more like "Steph, stop eating!"


Was there any specific moment that made you decide to make food your profession?

It was always my passion; and before leaving for France to do Cordon Bleu I had a stint at Elbert Cuenca's Restaurant 12. Although I enjoyed it I never really thought it would be my profession. After culinary school I finished my degree at the Sorbonne in the University of Paris IV, History and Geography Major with a Masters in Geography and Sustainable Development. I was doing internships with UNEP and the Philippine Delegation at UNESCO. I never really thought I'd go back to food even though I still cooked all the time. When I moved back to the Philippines, I wasn't sure what I was going to do and decided to give cooking classes in my spare time. I had so much fun teaching and sharing my passion. It just came naturally. Plus I got to earn as well. Then I knew, there's nothing better than being able to build a career out of your passion. I had to work in the food industry.


What aspect of food does your writing focus on and why? What drives you to write about food?


My writing is truly about the emotional, cultural, historic and nostalgic attachments we have to food. It's that history and geo major coming out. What makes our dining experiences extra special are the memories and feelings it can extract, conjure or create. A forgotten meal is a blah meal. Even when I cook there's always something I want to transmit. Kind of like the book "Like Water for Chocolate" by Laura Esquivel... Amazing sensory experiences just make me so happy and elated, it can be a really cheap but flavorful hawker laksa, or a delish 14 course meal at Arzak. Awful cuisine, especially when I'm over-charged for it makes me feel angry. I want to share these with people and hope they can share something with me too. I love getting emails and responses for my articles. And the biggest plus about being a food journalist? Meeting people who are just as passionate as I am and learning from them.



Every article you write in your Feast With Me column and your blog seems to be set in a different place, or country. Was there a place where you didn't think you'd enjoy the food and ended up loving it? Could you give examples of dishes and why you liked them?


Well I've been invited more and more to places around the Philippines, which is great! I get to see my country and explore through its different dishes and local flavors. I'm lucky that as I establish myself further in the food journalism industry, I get to travel around and discover. To be honest, there has been no place yet where I didn't think I'd enjoy the food. I never think that way. Whenever I travel I always look for "What can I eat here?" I already have a list of must-tries. I did go to Cuba and find most of the food a little repetitive and oily, I was hoping for more Caribbean, tropical cuisine. But it is so difficult to buy produce. Then some friends of mine invited to their home and cooked the most amazing meal ever! Lobsters he caught just that morning, marinated with coconut and grilled. Fresh corn tamales made by his wife, the corn meal pounded at home. Bonito cooked with pineapples in a pressure cooker, sweet and savory, tenderly delicious. Some fried bananas and my favorite: congri. Congri is rice cooked with black beans and topped with onions and fresh cilantro. Add some sliced fresh avocados in salt and vinegar. Wash it down with REAL mojitos, home made with freshly picked yerba
buena (not mint), aged Havana club rum, fresh bright green limes and sticky brown sugar.The sound of Afro-Cuban beats in the background, laughter and friendships being formed in the courtyard of a weathered down colonial home in Trinidad. It was beautiful.


Do you have a food obsession? Like a type of food, dish or ingredient? Please share.

I have several, and more. I have like food obsessions of the month. Like I'll go for one month of just making cauliflower in different ways. Or maybe use Hungarian sausages for different purposes. My recurring favorites? Chorizo, truffle oil, pasta, eggplant, really yummy french fries and egg. My current food obsession of the month? Crispy, deep fried danggit. I love it for breakfast! And Bicolano New Look daing with garlic rice, scrambled egg, ensaladang
talong and vinegar.


Where do you find yourself heading out to for after-after-party noshes (or binges) and why?


My fave used to be McDonald's... twister fries are the best! I nearly cried when they took it off the menu wailing at the poor drive-thru speaker. "Why oh why?" But I had to really stop eating after drinking... nothing worse than making your tummy big. In France I used to live beside a Pizza Pino which would stay open till 5am... pizza with fresh mushroom and ham! And another African chicken joint my friends and I discovered: Babylon Bis... open till 8am!



Your favorite restaurant in Manila?


It's got to be Sushi Kappo Kobikicho. Impeccable service, great conversations with Chef Shintaro and oh soooooo amazing food. He always sneaks me some new thing try. I am not nearly wealthy enough to eat there as often as I would like though! I also enjoy Apartment 1b for their veggie lasagna and laid back feel. I love Cyma for healthy and tasty lunch options.


Anything you would not eat or never eat again?


Moldy, illegal, full of maggots disgusting Corsican u
casgiu merzu cheese...ugh. It's so pungent your mouth gets hot! Aaaaaack!


For someone who obviously likes eating, how do you keep so annoyingly svelte?

I have a very unhealthy yoyo diet! I put on five pounds... I lose five pounds... Put on, lose it... It's very unhealthy. I'll binge and do no exercise at all then go super healthy and workout insanely. I'm trying to keep a healthier lifestyle. No limitations just portion control. Like I don't have to eat that 350g rib eye steak! I can share it. Also trying to exercise more regularly and eat more veggies. Wish there would be more healthy fast food or easy lunch options in the market!






Photo by Raymund Isaac

Friday, November 19, 2010

On The Table: Joey de Larrazabal-Blanco





I absolutely enjoy reading Joey Blanco's Blog, 80 Breakfasts. Her bubbly enthusiasm and her love for cooking is so evident, it oozes out of her well-written pages. My admiration extends to the the fact that her blog also exudes her genuine love for her family and life itself. Reading her blog is like a magic pill one takes to drive the blues away. Let's catch a glimpse into what makes Joey tick:

Of all the things that you could write about why food?

I love food - both consuming it and preparing it, and every other step of the process that brings it from its origins to our table.

Who are the food writers who inspire you and why?

Ruth Reichl always makes me want to eat anything she writes about, plus, she makes me laugh which is very important in my book. Also, say what you will about her, I love the gutsy voluptousness of Nigella's writing. Even if she pushes her adjectives and superlatives to the very edge of decency, you can't delny her unbridled enthusiasm for food, which is something I relate to very much. Tessa Kiros' lyrical, dreamy writing in her cookbooks never fail to inspire me. I also love Anthony Bourdain. But I have a mad crush on him so perhaps mine is a very, very biased opinion. In the blog world i love to read Molly of Orangette... excellent writing, food or otherwise!

Many regional cuisines like Thai, Singapore and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Pinoy food hasn't achieved the same global acclaim?

Ah, a much debated question! there are many reasons why this could be so, and I'm no expert, but I think one of the reasons is because Filipino food is so "familial". Recipes are passed down from one generation to the next, involving more feel and estimations than exact measurement, and one family's recipe can be vastly different from another's. What happens is you have a million different versions of Adobo... so which is the standard that you will serve in a restaurant? Also, Filipinos are more likely to serve foreigners foreign food rather than Filipino food I think, a habit which may have kept our cuisine in our kitchens instead of on the world stage. That being said, I think the times are changing now and our cuisine is starting to get more of the attention it deserves in the global scene!

You have been writing you blog for over five years now, what changes have you observed in the local food scene over the years?

My goodness! I feel like a dinosaur, heehee! I think people are becoming more and more conscious of where their food comes from and what they are putting in their mouths and bodies. There is a renewed interest in preparing one's own food and enjoying a home-cooked meal. Which is all great! I love seeing younger people at the markets choosing items with care, talking to the purveyors, being curious about ingredients and ways to prepare them.

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food related television show and food magazine?

My favorite food blog? I can't name just one! I would have to say in no particular order: Chocolate and Zucchini, 101 Cookbooks, Smitten Kitchen, Market Manila, La Tartine Gourmande, Rasa Malaysia, Eating Asia... and thats just the tip of the iceberg. I love food bloggers. Yes, I'm biased that way:) Cookbook? Anything by Donna Hay or Tessa Kiros. How to be a Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson. Yes, I love pictures and flowery language... and I'm not shy to admit it! Food-related TV show? All Jamie Oliver's shows... love his enthusiasm! We should all be that excited about what we are eating! Food magazine? Donna Hay Magazine and locally, Yummy.

I know that you are a big fan of Anthony Bourdain. If for example, one day, he calls you and asks to spend the day with you. Where would you take him for breakfast, mid-morning snack, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?

I would not take him anywhere! I would keep him all to myself heehee:) Seriously, I would rather stay home with a case of wine and have him teach me how to cook properly!

Your love for cooking is very evident to anyone who reads your blog. Please tell our readers what is your signature dish?

Hmmm. That's a tough one. I am constantly learning and discovering and exploring. So I don't think I've really settled on a signature. If there is one thing I'd like to impart on my readers is that you don't have to have a signature dish... you can have several and they can keep changing and evolving over the years, just as we all change and evolve as people. I do like to think I make a not-too-shabby fabada though:)

What junk food do you love?

I don't really enjoy junk food. I am more a food-food sort of person who enjoys polishing off a crispy pata as opposed to a bag of chips ( and believe me I can finish the former before the latter). That being said, McDonald's Twister Fries have this almost unholy hold over me. Thank goodnes they don't always serve them.

Is there a food that you just can't seem to enjoy?
Chicken liver. Sorry folks, it just won't take.

Can you give three tips to aspiring food bloggers?

Write about something you love and you will never be led astray. Be honest and sincere. Have fun! Really, at the end of the day, that's all there is to it.

What are the future plans for Joey de Larrazabal-Blanco and 80 Breakfasts?

This question makes me feel like a CEO of a blue-chip company! Sorry to disappoint but I have no grand 5-year plan in the works--just more of what I enjoy which is cooking and eating and sharing this all with you through my blog. As my family grows (we are now three!) I see my cooking growing to include my little one's needs. I've already posted about baby food! I also have some writing beyond my blog planned for 2011... you'll have to stay tuned for that!







Tuesday, September 7, 2010

On the Table: Chef Andreas Gillar



Austrian executive pastry chef Andreas Gillar has been in the exacting pastry business for more than two decades and running. After his studies in Vienna and managing pastry kitchens in major hotel groups all over Asia, including the executive pastry chef post of The Peninsula Manila, he now joins Enderun Colleges’ esteemed faculty.

Fresh off a highly successful one-night only 8-course dinner at Restaurant 101, Master Chef Gillar ingeniously showcased an infusion of pastry techniques to savory dishes; churning out exotic fare as foie gras macarons, lobster panna cottas and black olive and cured tomato baklavas. Topping off the dinner was not one, but three decadent dessert courses; including a 68% bitter chocolate mousse I’m still suffering withdrawal from.

Did you grow up with food? Any particular food related memory as a child?

Yes, I grew up with food, also we Austrians love to eat! None in my family or relatives was really into the food business but as a child at the age of 12-14 I helped my mom in baking the Sunday afternoon teacakes.

What made you decide to be a professional cook?

Well, maybe it was by accident. Back in Austria, next to our school was a small cafe house and they had a show kitchen. From the sidewalk you could see the chef decorating cakes and it looked so nice! Probably this can be one reason why I chose pastry. When I started to apprentice, I found out the hard way that it wasn’t that easy to make nice pastries because it needed a lot of effort and patience. But I started to love my chosen business. I learned fast and studied hard. At the age of 22 I went to the Master School for Pastry in Vienna to attain the highest level of pastry knowledge.

Any advice you could give to home enthusiasts/home bakers?

Start simple. Be open to learn the basic methods (even I still need to stick to basic methods). When the basics are learned well it’s easy to build up on it after.

Stay only with natural ingredients and flavors.

Being a sort-of home baker as well, you have a long list of products to offer clients. I’m sure you have your popular items but what is your favorite among them and why?

Green Tea Opera Cake: its basically a classic cake, but the green tea flavor gives a nice touch to the product

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Chocolate Raspberry Cake: its a chocolate mousse cake (with a strong chocolate taste) with raspberry jelly. I love the combination of chocolate and the sourness of the raspberries, its goes beautiful together

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What I basically try in many items is not to bring in different tastes alone. I also focus on different textures…crunchy, creamy, foam, jelly, etc. And even spices I use from time to time like chili with chocolate and pink pepper with berries.


Do you like any Filipino sweets?

There are plenty of nice desserts in the Philippines. Sansrival, ube (like sticky rice) and halo-halo.

You’re at home, hungry; what would you have as a midnight snack?

Here in Asia I got used to midnight snacking. Usually it’s a homemade ham, egg and cheese sandwich and a beer. With cheddar cheese and sour cream flavor Ruffles- that is the real fat maker!

Anything you would not eat or never eat again?

Durian. Yuck. In Indonesia they made me eat durian. I’d rather have a balut than durian.

If you didn’t end up as a chef, what would you be?

A ski teacher. Back in Austria I was a great skier. I even got offered a job once.

Monday, February 15, 2010

On the Table: Chef Godfrey Laforteza

On the Table: Chef Godfrey Laforteza

Chef Godfrey Laforteza is the executive chef of The Establishment, the new chi-chi entertainment venue in Fort Bonifacio Global City. While he may have earned his chef’s whites working with the likes of Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten and Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, he credits two important women with starting him down the path of gastronomic adventure: his mother and his wife of eight years, actor Carla Guevara. "[While living in New York], my wife was working as a barista for a café. When she gave birth, I took her place. Then, I was transferred to the kitchen to help with the prep work. I became good friends with the chef and he taught me the basics. I decided that I wanted to take up the culinary arts…the rest, as they say, is history.” An avid car enthusiast and golfer, this former theater performer is also the proud father of two wonderful children, Basil and Sophia.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My wife, Carla Guevara-Laforteza, who taught me how to cook.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

The first book of Nobu Matsuhisa.

What was your first job in the food business?

La Boulangeria in New York. I worked as a food delivery guy and a dishwasher.

What is your inspiration for the menus of restaurants of The Establishment?

After nine years of being away from the Philippines working as a chef for established restaurants and hotels in the United States (and some parts of Asia) as well as a personal chef to some high-profile names in the USA, Hong Kong, Jakarta and the Philippines, I've compiled all that I've learned and put it into one menu.

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

Pan Seared Beef with Lychee Truffle Sauce.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Jean Georges at the Trump Tower, New York

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Sala Bistro

What junk food do you love?

Gummy Bears. Love them.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Ox brains. Any animal brain. I hate it.

Just between us, what are your future plans?


Secret.
The Establishment
Unit A, The Fort Entertainment Complex
26th Street corner 5th Avenue
Fort Bonifacio, Global City,
Taguig
Tel: (02) 844 6364

Friday, January 8, 2010

On the Table: Chef Him Uy De Baron Of Chef Cuisine

chef him

Meet Chef Him Uy De Baron (yes, that is him real name).

The executive chef of a catering company called Chef Cuisine, Chef Him prides himself for not only catering to his client's culinary desires at any price point but also for bringing the focus back to where it should be the creation of sumptuously memorable meals. Don't be distracted by the name. From my personal experience, the only thing more distinctive than his name is the deliciously vibrant flavors and meticulous attention to detail Chef Him brings to the plate. His is a name definitely worth remembering.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My mom. I grew up with my mom manning the kitchen for every meal especially on special occasions. These food memories have influenced my own cooking.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

On food and cooking, The French Laundry Cookbook. It opened up my eyes to how a genius and perfectionist is at work and what a near perfect kitchen looks like. Non-food related, it has to be the bible. It has saved my life and it continues to be a source of strength and purpose, refreshing our lives.

What was your first job in the food business?

I was a busboy for a cafe.

When did you decide you wanted to start Chef Cuisine?

A client came to me to meet about a consultancy job for an existing catering company. One thing led to another and now here I am..

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

The great thing about a catering company is that there is no daily menu. You're free to cook up a different menu every single event and I enjoy creating new menus for specific needs of my client. I do enjoy cooking Asian food with big bold flavors.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

The original Soleil. I was a student then and had to save up to bring a date there. I had the legendary sea bass. It was sublime, a revelation, a bite I wont forget. It showed me first hand what food and the whole restaurant experience was capable of doing to a person's senses. And I also like Alba's where I told my future wife I liked her...

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

It really depends on our mood (me and my wife) but we do have safe bets and constants that we go to. For Italian, it's Balducci or a little mom-and-pop place called Pizzaria Toscana. For a quick satisfying noodle place, it's Beijing Hand Pulled Noodles. For simple but excellent Filipino food, 1521. I also love ramen at Aji Sen. Dimsum and Chinese at Shang Palace. For Thai, I like People's Palace.

What junk food do you love?

Chips and KFC Hot Shots. The crunch of MSG-laden fried food is simply too difficult to resist.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Pretentious food.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I've been wanting to open up my own joint with my own food and style. I'm hoping it will happen within a year or two. I've been really patient with this because I want it to be right. It has to be the right time, right place, right staff, right partners and the right season in my life. I do feel it's fast approaching.
Chef Cuisine
3rd floor
The Centerpoint Condominium
J. Vargas cor Garnet Street
Ortigas Center, Pasig City
Tel: (02) 633-6577
Fax: (02) 633-6579
Email: chefcuisine06@gmail.com
Website: www.chefcuisine.multiply.com

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

On The Table: Roshan Samtani of Homemade by Roshan

On the Table: Roshan Santani

For someone who claims not be a dessert person, Roshan Samtani has us all completely fooled. Baking in her surprisingly small home kitchen, she creates some of the most delectable desserts that have become family favorites around Metro Manila. And while she may not consider herself a 'dessert person' to her loyal customers, she is the font of everything that is scrumptiously sweet.

Who has influenced your baking/cooking the most?

I have not studied formally. So I don’t have the one mentor who was most influential. I think it's the people who eat the desserts who influence me the most, what I feel they would like or what they would be looking for next. That is how I come up with most of what I do, especially the most popular ones.

I try not be very structured in the way I bake. I try not be very modern. I'm more the homemade, old-style, small-batch way of baking.

What books have influenced you the most?

The books I like are not necessary the books I bake from. I like the books of David Lebovitz because he is fun. I think baking should be fun and not so difficult. Some people make baking look so hard to do. But it's not rocket science. And you don't need the best equipment to bake well. Most people would be surprised [to see where I bake], nothing high-tech. It's home stuff, nothing a normal household would not have.

I also like to read Maida Heatter because I like the way she always puts a little story. You can see the history behind the recipe and I also like how she explains things. Even if you don't use the recipe, you learn something from reading it that you can apply somewhere else.

What made you decide to start Homemade by Roshan?

There was no real start. When I was doing my college thesis...we [Roshan and her thesis mates] had to put up a business for a year. We set up a company called Chocoholics Incorporated. We made chocolate truffles and brownies. It became very successful in the few months we were running it. I was always into baking. Even as a child, I liked to make small cookies and such. So when we had a [thesis] group, I told them I could teach them to make the stuff and food is always easy to sell, especially chocolate.

After [the thesis] was done, I continued to bake at home. I would make [desserts] for parties at home. Someone would always ask me to make something for them. And I used to give it away until, my dad said," You will go broke!" because the ingredients were all starting to add up. People began to say, "No, don't give it to me. I'll order it." So it started from that.

Of the desserts you make, what is your favorite?

I'm most proud of my cookies. It's a little bit surprising for people because cookies are something that seems to be simple and that anyone can do at home. But to get my cookies right required the most work for all of my desserts. My cookies required the most science. What brings me happiness is when someone bites into the cookie. It may just look like a cookie but when you eat it, something lights up.

What are your favorite (local or foreign) restaurants?

An old favorite is Chef Jessie Sincioco's Le Souffle. I have had many great meals there over the years. I particularly love her Roasted Rack of Lamb Provencale, which never fails to satisfy.

Another favorite is Chef Tonyboy Escalante's Antonio's in Tagaytay. The combination of his superb food (I love the steak!) and that out-of-town air makes it well worth the drive.

What was your most memorable meal?

I've had so many memorable meals, far too many to recount. But all of them had the following elements: good food (many times home-cooked), great people to share the meal with, good conversation and lots of laughter.

What is your favorite junk food?

I like the regular Cheetos. After trying everything--the puffs, the jalapeno- flavored which were good in the beginning--I went back to the regular [Cheetos]. I like nuts, which isn't junk actually.

Is there food you hate?

Lots. I'm not into the 'reality show' kind of food, all these strange and exotic stuff. I don't like cooked vegetables. I prefer them raw or if they are cooked, they should be cooked a little. I can't eat the mushy stuff.

Just between us, what are the future plans of Roshan Samtani and Homemade by Roshan?

Everyone asks me if I want to open something in a mall. I'm not saying never but it's not a plan. It's not something my heart desires. I like doing this [baking and working in her home]. Because when I do this, I can actually bake. When you go bigger, you are not baking anymore. You're running a business. There is just no time [to bake].

Homemade by Roshan
Telephone: (02) 631 7786

Cellular Phone: (0917) 833 6286

Website: http://homemadebyroshan.com

Thursday, September 17, 2009

On The Table: Aun Koh of Chubby Hubby

On the Table: Aun Koh of Chubby Hubby

To say we are fans of Aun Koh would be a gross understatement. Besides documenting his culinary adventures on his popular food blog, Chubby Hubby, Aun and his wife, Tan Su-Lyn busy themselves consulting for luxury restaurant and hotels and creating the annual Miele Guide. His rich gastronomic tales and mouthwatering photos have established Aun’s reputation as a true food blogger’s blogger.

What made you decide to create Chubby Hubby?

Chubby Hubby came about through chance. I was in charge of organizing the Singapore Writers Festival back in 2005. The Chairman that I had appointed had suggested we incorporate blogging into the Festival program—using blogs as a way of marketing the Festival as well as inviting famous bloggers to sit on panels. I had no idea back then what a blog was. But when I started investigating them, and especially when I came across the then-new world of food blogs, I was hooked. As an ex-writer, photographer and magazine editor, I thought a blog would be the perfect hobby. I still missed writing and taking photos so it was a great creative outlet. And as a passionate foodie, naturally, I decided to tailor my blog around my gustatory cravings.

You are one of the creators of the Miele Guide. Why did you decide to take on this challenging endeavour? And how is the guide created?

Both my wife and I have long wished that there was a standard in Asia, equal in stature to how Zagat is respected in America and how Michelin is in Europe. For the most part of our professional careers in the media in Asia, there was no such standards. In fact, most of the restaurant guides that did exist were highly unprofessional in that they had no integrity—they asked restaurants to give reviewers free meals and charged for the amount of editorial space they would eventually receive. Su-Lyn and I have also been part of the jury for Restaurant Magazine's World's 50 Best Restaurants for many years. And while I highly respect this survey, in its early years, it was heavily biased against restaurants in Asia, i.e. the way the voting was set up meant that no Asia-based restaurant could ever rise to the top. This only motivated us even more to set up a credible Asia-regional restaurant guide, with evaluations and rankings, that, while debatable (as they all are), would be respected by the industry. Most importantly, a chef from Asia could go to the West and be able to say with pride that he had some form of recognition from his region, the same way European chefs often tout their Michelin stars during overseas promotions. We were simply very lucky that the folks at Miele understood and shared our passion for the F&B sector in Asia and recognized just how important a guide like The Miele Guide could eventually become.

Your 'day job' requires a lot of travel, can you tell more about it? And are there any travel destinations that you would recommend?

I run two small companies. One is a small publishing firm. We publish The Miele Guide annually plus we take on a lot of cool custom publishing jobs. The other firm is a lifestyle consultancy. We have three teams specializing in three areas: F&B development; public relations; and marketing. Most of our work is related to the F&B industry, hospitality and travel industry, and the luxury lifestyle market. I travel quite a bit because of our F&B projects. Last year, we developed a bar-restaurant concept for a client in Dubai; most recently, we helped create and open all the F&B outlets for a hotel in China. We're currently working on a fast food company in Indonesia. I also travel because of some of our PR (and other) clients. We handle the Asia PR for Mr & Mrs Smith, the world's sexiest boutique hotel collection, and the global PR for Alila Hotels & Resorts. They've just opened some stunning new properties in Bali and the Maldives. I am planning some visits currently. Both my wife and I love Japan. We love eating and shopping there. In fact, we just came back from Kyoto recently. I would urge any and every serious foodie to make not one but several trips to explore this amazing and very unique country.

Say we looking for fine dining experience in Singapore, what would be your three restaurants recommendations?

In order, I would recommend Jaan par Andre, Iggy's, and My Humble House. But let me specify, I would only recommend the last option if you book ahead, book the private chef's table and get Group Executive Chef Sam Leong to whip up a Modern Chinese meal for you. Jaan par Andre is helmed by Andre Chiang, hands-down the best French chef working in Singapore today. And Iggy's is an amazing culinary experience; it is contemporary fusion at its best.

What have been your three most memorable meals ever?

There are just so many. It's really hard to choose. But if pressed, I'd say a simple burger and beer meal at Corner Bistro in NYC with my wife a few years ago; dinner at El Bulli in 2008; and dinner at Alain Ducasse in Paris during my honeymoon, many, many years back. Each, of course, is memorable for very different reasons. With Corner Bistro, especially, it was about sharing a place that I had loved in my youth with the love of my life. Yes, the burgers are great, but it was about finally taking my wife to a place I had raved to her about for years.

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?

That's really difficult. I think I am going to do the wimpy politically correct thing and not name a specific blog nor cookbook. For TV shows, I am hopelessly addicted to Top Chef. And for magazines, while S is a huge Donna Hay fan, I prefer Gourmet Traveller and Vogue Entertaining and Travel, both also Aussie mags.

What three tips can you give to would be food bloggers?

Decide why you are starting your blog. Are you trying to land a book deal or a movie deal? Are you trying to make money from the blog? Or is it really just something fun for friends to read? The answer to these questions will determine what kind of blog you do, the tone you take, and what you write about.

Posting negative restaurant reviews if you are an amateur (food writer) is the quickest way to earn disdain and lose respect from industry professionals. Sure, it's fun to write negative reviews. But not everyone is AA Gill. When most people write bad reviews, they also read rather poorly. Just don't. My parents always said if you nothing nice to say, say nothing. I think that's damn good advice.

Invest in a nice camera and learn to use it. Rule 3(a) would be to exercise manners when taking photos in someone's restaurant. Always ask the manager if you are allowed to shoot your food. And never act like a spoiled child if they say no.

What junk food do you love?

Spam and ice cream come to mind. But never together of course.

Is there a food you just can’t enjoy?

My wife and my dogs love durian. You'd have to hog-tie me and clamp my mouth open before getting any of it past my lips. I really can't stand the stuff.

Just between you, what are the future plans for Aun Koh and Chubby Hubby?

Well, my wife and I are really happy with the popularity of the blog. It constantly amazes us how many readers there are. Right now, we're focusing on building up our companies. Ate Consulting is really growing very quickly and we need to ensure we continue to service our clients properly while also identifying new talent to bring into our little corporate family.

Monday, August 3, 2009

On The Table: Chef Tonyboy Escalante

On The Table: Chef <span class=

When it comes to his cuisine, Chef Tonyboy Escalante considers himself a "safe" chef. However, one could make the case that his greatest gamble has also become his most spectacular success. At the time, many would have considered opening a fine dining restaurant in a secluded barangay in Cavite ludicrous. But seven years later, Antonio's is now regarded one of the best restaurants in Asia. Early next year, this former flight steward is considering another career shift—from awarding-winning chef and restaurateur to boutique hotel owner.

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

No one. I love cooking. But I think the more important thing is that I love to entertain. If you are great cook but hate to entertain, I don’t think it will work. [Cooking and entertaining] must go hand-in-hand. What is my greatest influence in my style of cooking? My travels and my personality.

Which book has had the biggest impact?


The French Laundry Cookbook. But I don’t cook the same [dishes]. I love the book and the chef, Thomas Keller. I’ve been to his restaurant in Napa Valley. I love his restaurant and what they do there.

What was your first job in the food/service business?

I was a flight steward. I quit [in my third year of] dentistry then I became a steward [with Philippine Airlines] just to prove to my dad that I would do something.

How and when did you decide to open Antonio’s?


Before I left Australia [for culinary school], I looked for property [in Tagaytay] already. I really wanted a restaurant outside of Manila. I hate competition. I only want to compete with myself. Sonya Garcia [of Sonya’s Garden] is good friend of mine. The first time I went her place, I told her that I wanted to live a life like hers.

After seven years, there are still a lot of things to do here [in Antonio’s]. Maybe because of my artistic nature, I cannot stop developing and building little by little.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Antonio’s?


My steak. I love the way I do my steak. And my fresh salad. Before [opening] my restaurant and even before I left of Australia [for culinary school], I was working on my gardening and delivering [produce]. And through the years, [my gardening] has developed by getting ideas from other farmers and sharing ideas also.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?


Balthazar in New York. It was memorable because it is the way I cook. The seafood in Tel Aviv [the capital of Israel]. I can’t remember the name of the restaurant but food was good. I was surprised. Even the nightlife in Tela Aviv was great. We went into a club at 11pm and left at 3pm the next day.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

This is really hard. I hate this question. Can I pass on this? *

What junk food do you love?

Chippy or Wow! Mani. I can eat jars and jars of peanuts.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

I can eat anything. I can even eat the head of the goat. [After some consideration] Ok, maybe not snake, crocodile, bayawak [monitor lizard] and dog meat. I don’t like exotic meats.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

To open a resort. After seven years of Antonio’s, my people are so good that they can teach my newer people. I now have more time for myself. So I decide to open a boutique resort with architect, Teng Bustos. I think this is the right time to do it. I’m really excited about this [project].

*Chef Escalante did answer, off the record. Email me if you are interested to know what he said.

Antonio's
Barangay Neogan
Tagaytay City, Cavite
Telephone: (046)
413 0975 or (046) 413 1054
Celphone: (0917) 899 2866
Email: antoniosfarm@yahoo.com

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

On the Table: Malou Fores

On the Table: Malou Fores

Malou Fores is the proud proprietor of the diminutive but wildly popular restaurant called Mamou. At eight years old, she understood the joys and wonders of the kitchen after baking her first tray of chocolate brownies. Years later, married and raising her son, she would share her culinary passion with her family and friends, preparing casually intimate meals–which would eventually lead to the opening her current (and first) restaurant venture. An avid badminton player, scuba diver and world traveler, Malou is always trying to improve the dining experience at Mamou with the hope of eventually expanding to other locations in Metro Manila.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

Tough question because there are quite a bit of them. For baking, it would be my sister, Annie. She was my first baking teacher. Professionally, I like Mario Batali and Tonyboy Escalante. My husband, I think. I really started cooking for him.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

Believe it or not, Paris in a Basket. I don’t have much French dishes on my menu but I would say Paris in a Basket inspires me because the pictures and recipes are very simple. It is uncomplicated French cuisine. Another book would be Mario Batali’s cookbook.

What was your first job in the food business?

I use to supply this quaint store at the old Magallanes Commercial Center named The Little Farm. I supplied them with my Mini Banana Loaf and Mini Kalamansi Loaf.

How and when did you decide to open Mamou?

As many know, I co-own Blue Kitchen. I have always been the food business–I’d say 14 years now. I would always have friends and family for dinner. Just home cooking, nothing fancy. No formal dinners. My friends would tell me, ”Malou, why don’t you open a restaurant? We don’t want to wait to be invited to your place.” My son was in high school and didn’t need my time. For me, I needed to keep myself busier from what I was doing already. I said maybe [I should open] my dream restaurant, where there are no rules. I would like to serve home cooking, the way I would cook at home. When I turned 40, [I said] I’m going to go for this. Because I know when I turn 50 or 60, I want to look back and say I did it.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Mamou?

It’s not on my menu yet, Sinigang na Baboy. I will be putting it on the menu soon. I don’t know how to plate it yet. I really love meat. I’m a carnivore. It’s very apparent [from my menu].

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

At Lupa in New York City, I had a pasta dish that I cannot forget, Bottarga with Chickpeas. In fact, I have recently added this to my menu and I believe this has become a favorite of some regular clients.

Another meal was at Antonio's in Tagaytay. Frozen Mojito for cocktails. Beef Tartare with toast to start, followed by Crispy Lamb Ribs, served with egg noodles topped with the freshest coriander leaves and a hoisin dressing. And for dessert, a scoop of Spicy Dark Chocolate Ice Cream.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?


Tonyboy Escalante’s restaurant, Antonio’s. Hands down.

What junk food do you love?

Chicharon from Cebu. It’s place in Cebu. I buy it in an outlet near the market. I love raw fish bagoong with kalamansi. I eat it with rice.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

No, I’m the type to try everything. [After some consideration] Yes, they are three: monkey brains, dog and horse meat.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I’m hoping to open another Mamou, eventually. I’m still waiting for Rockwell. Maybe 2010. A restaurant with a ceiling [Mamou has an exposed ceiling]. I would like to work with somebody who is going to do a Filipino cookbook where we can travel the Philippines.
Mamou: A Home Kitchen
Unit 1C-15
Ground Floor, Serendra
Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City
Telephone: (02) 856 3569
Celephone: (0917) 818 2668
Email: mamou@info.com.ph

Saturday, June 6, 2009

On the Table: Chef Golda May Ranada

On the Table: Chef Golda May Ranada
Chef Golda May Ranada

Watching family members cooking during lavish fiestas in Nueva Ecija, a young Golda imbibed the sensations and skills that would eventually lead her to a life long passion. Now the executive chef of the fine dining restaurant, Lemuria, Chef Golda-May Ranada busies herself with the day-to-day restaurant operations and creating customized tasting menus for a wine-appreciating clientele. As Lemuria expands beyond their intimate dining space into a full-fledged catering service, Chef Ranada enjoys the ever-challenging adrenaline rush. But on her off hours, it’s about balance–practicing yoga whenever her schedule allows.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My mom. She always cooked from the heart.

Which book has had the biggest impact?


I would say this book made me dream about the wondrous ingredients which were not so available locally way back 1990's. The simplicity of provincial cooking which in itself a lifestyle. I read A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle and I guess it all started there.

What was your first job in the food business?


Pantry girl in Le Souffle (the one in Greenbelt), but I really craved the heat and speed of the hotline so I apprenticed as a saucier.

How did you get involved with Lemuria?

Klaus and Kitt Schroeder were in need of a chef/consultant and I fell in love with the setting of Lemuria.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Lemuria?

La Tomate et Citron, Braised Lamb Shank and Baked Halibut

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Lunch in Maison Pic, Valence, France, hawker's food in Singapore

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?


Casa Armas, Lolo Dad's, Hossein's.

What junk food do you love?

Clover Chips and Chocnut (ha ha ha)

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?


I'm adventurous with food... so I will try anything.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

Next is to travel and eat in provincial Spain, have a baby, write my own cookbook soon.
Thank you to Erik Lacson for the photograph.

Lemuria
5 Julieta Circle
Horseshoe Village
Quezon City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 724 5211, (02) 722 2185

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

On the Table: Chef RJ Ungco

On the Table: Chef <span class=
Chef RJ Ungco with his daughter, Raya

Trained at the Les Roches School of Hotel Management in Switzerland and with varied practical experiences from the basements of Italian eateries to the kitchens of Malacanang, Chef RJ Ungco has built a resume that would the envy of any chef. Driven by a passion for the gastronomic, he continues to innovate food with a touch of Pinoy thrown into the mix–first at his small Italian-inspired restaurant Ponzo’s and now in his newest venture (with partners, Tanke Tengkeko and Nica Miranda), 1521 Restaurant. At 1521, Chef Ungco and his partners have taken Filipino comfort food and turned it on its head–creating dishes that are not only delicious and but just plain fun.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My Lola Gloria. Lola Alud. And my Lola Mel.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

So far, ang fave ko is Les Halles by Anthony Bourdain. But there are many other culinary-based books that give me inspiration.

What was your first job in the food business?

I was a lowly commissary cook stuck in the basement of an Italian restaurant in Italy, peeling garlic, potatoes and onions.

How did you get involved with 1521?

I was first a chef consultant for 1521. I came up with dishes and a menu for them. Suddenly we really hit it off (Tanke, Nica, and I) so from then on we became partners na.

What is your favorite item on the menu of 1521?

The Bonggang Bonggang Binagoongan and the Ang Tapa This.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

San Nick's Lasagna (from an Italian restaurant beside my school in Switzerland) and my lola's Menudo.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Behrouz and Hossein's. I'm a Middle Eastern food junkie! Before, [I used to like] Ima Filipino restaurant.

What junk food do you love?

Clover Chips and cold pizza.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Prawns and crabs. I like eating them pero I don’t like peeling them.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

A couple more Ponzos and 1521s won’t hurt. To create, taste, produce, and conceptualize more mouth-watering dishes :)
1521 Restaurant
547 Shaw Boulevard

Brgy. Wack-Wack

Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila

Telephone: (02) 794 0433

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

On the Table: Robyn Eckhardt and David Hagerman

On the Table: Robyn Eckhart and Davide Hagerman
Picture Perfect: Robyn and David

There are things that we just meant to be together. Peanut butter and jelly. Green mangoes and bagoong. Mayonnaise and...(pretty much) everything. Add to that list, Robyn Eckhardt and David Hagerman. Through their food blog, Eating Asia, these partners in life, food and travel have beautifully documented their adventure in and around Southeast Asia. Introducing the blogsphere to the diverse cultural and culinary delights this part of world has to offer, this globetrotting duo have elevated food blogging into an appetite-whetting art.
Hello, Robyn and David. Tell us a little about yourselves.

We were both born and raised in Michigan (American Midwest). Our 'life in Asia' started with a year teaching English in China in the mid-eighties. In 1994 Dave moved to Hong Kong for work, Robyn followed soon after, and then we ended up back in China till 1998. After three years back in California, Dave accepted a job in Bangkok and we haven't looked back. Right now we feel Southeast Asia is where we belong. After a year in Bangkok, we spent 2.5 years in Saigon, before moving to Malaysia in mid-2005.

How and when did you decide to make food/travel your life's work?

Dave has been photographing for years and years, and I (Robyn) have been writing --albeit in a different, academic, capacity--for almost as long. We've always been into food and travel and have particularly admired Saveur magazine and it's approach to 'real' food. When we moved to Malaysia, we started the blog--it was sort of our 'guinea pig' to see if we could work together to write about and photograph food. That's how it started, really, with the blog, though we'd been thinking about it for at least a couple years prior.

Robyn, many regional cuisines like Thai, Singaporean and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Filipino food hasn't achieved the same global acknowledgment?

Well, to begin with, there are not that many Filipino restaurants overseas, so knowledge is slim. Second, Philippine street food is, to tell the truth, not particularly appealing. Visitors to Thailand, Singapore, and Vietnam are immediately assaulted with all kinds of hawker foods that are very accessible, and very appealing, and they are right on the street--or in a food court that's easy to find. The visitor to, say, Manila, won't have that sort of experience, unless they happen to stumble upon Salcedo. Which brings us to promotion--the Philippine tourism authorities do not attempt to promote the PHI as a tourism destination. They could learn from Singapore's tourism authorities, who have succeeded in pushing an image of Singapore as the best place for food in Southeast Asia by educating the foreign public via events like Singapore Food Festivals staged in cities all over the world.

Finally, until recently I think the very best PHI food has been found only in private homes. I notice that in the last few years in Manila, at least, there are more and more eateries where visitors can find excellent versions of PHI homestyle dishes. Filipinos are very picky--a Kapampangan, for instance, would probably turn his nose up at Abe. But for me, a visitor, it's quite good--and it flouts preconceptions that I may have had about Filipino food.

The challenge is getting people to even consider a foodie trip to Manila in the first place. I hope we made some headway there, with our WSJA article.

Robyn, do you ever get tired of writing about food?

You're kidding, right? Do you? I recently wrote a feature story that had nothing at all to do with food. It was the hardest thing I've ever written. Food is my thing.

David, you take some most outstanding photos we've seen. Can you describe your process for us? What is involved in taking the perfect photograph?

It's important to have your wife nagging you to take the perfect photograph. Some advice: watch your light, fill the frame with your subject, and look for something you haven't seen before in photographs of the subject.

David, do you shoot anything else aside from the subjects that you pursue professionally?

Sure, the camera is with me all the time. I shoot our pets. We have three dogs and four cats. Seriously, I've been experimenting a lot lately with the use of light and capturing motion. A kitten is a great subject.

You have been writing, shooting and living in Asia for a while now, what changes have you observed in the regional food scene?

We've seen markets disappear, or be tidied up. We've seen street food disappear (our reference here is Shanghai, where we lived for 2.5 years). We've seen increasing sophistication in terms of Western foods in some places, like Singapore, Manila, Bangkok, and, slowly, Kuala Lumpur. But we're also happy to report that so many traditional foods and food production processes remain. That makes us happy, because we're really not interested in reporting on topics like Asia's Michelin-starred restaurants (and there are already enough people who do that sort of food photography/writing anyway).

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?

Blog: Viet World Ktichen. Andrea Nguyen is a great writer and the blog is an intriguing combo of recipes, newsy tidbits, ingredient discussion, links, etc. We love Vietnamese food but strangely it is one Asian cuisine Robyn doesn't cook much. So we get our fill here.

Cookbook: Pick just one? Robyn cooks many cuisines so that's hard. At the moment, Dunlop's Land of Plenty (Sichuan food - our first experience of Asia was in Sichuan), Besa's Memories of the Philippine Kitchen (as much for the writing and photography as for the recipes), Lynne Rosetto Kaspar's The Italian Country Kitchen (fantastic, TRULY fantastic and authentic Italian cookbook), and Alford/Duguid's Mangoes and Curry Leaves (every single recipe works like a charm).

Food-related TV show: On National Geographic, "Food Lover's Guide to the Planet." It's informative and entertaining and doesn't talk down to the viewer. It's the sort of show that we'd love to do research for.

Food magazine: Some months it's Saveur, other months it's Gourmet. Depends on how 'out there' they've gotten with their food-travel topics.

Say I am visitor from out of town who visiting Kuala Lumpur for the day, where would you take me for breakfast, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and later night supper?

Breakfast: Imbi Market, downtown. An amazing selection of street foods, mostly Chinese, all delicious.

Lunch: Ikan Bakar Pak Din, in the Lake Gardens. Grilled fish and delicious Malay dishes. If Pak Din's wife has made her incredible chicken rendang you're in real luck. Closed Sunday, lunch only.

Afternoon snack: Chat Masala on Jalan Tun Sambanthan in Brickfields. Indian chat (bite-sized snacks) served only after 4p. The puri and fruit salad are highly recommended.

Dinner: Sek Yuen, a 50+-year-old Chinese Malaysian restaurant where the entire kitchen is still fired by wood. They don't make places like this anymore. The food is ethereal--rice is not boiled but steamed in individual metal bowls. Go for the stuffed pig's trotter; red-cooked beef, beef stomach, and tendon; sweet and sour fish; roast duck; stir-fried baby gailan; 'shark's fin' (it's not really) stir-fried with egg and served with iceberg lettuce cups and black vinegar.

Late night snack: Tengkat Tong Shin, a street parallel to the famous Jalan Alor--on the same side of the street as Max! Kitchen (a very good restaurant, by the way) an old guy stir-fries noodles in an alley. His mee sua is wonderful--charred and smoky.

What junk food do you love?

Snyder's pretzels. And chicharon which, thankfully, we can't get too often in Malaysia.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Bony freshwater fish. Too much work.

Can you give three tips for would be food writers/bloggers/photographers?

Food writers Don't go into it for the money (there's very little), be a writer editors love to work with, and lose your ego. Editing for publication can be brutal.

Food bloggers Write what you know, find a niche, and do it because you love it. That said, some bloggers have systematically marketed themselves to earn money from it and have done well. But we just couldn't be bothered if it wasn't something we enjoyed.

Photographers (from Dave) Love what you are shooting, get people involved in the photograph, and don't get hung up on equipment.

What are the future plans for Robyn Eckhardt, David Hagerman and Eating Asia?

We're working on a book proposal, but we'll leave it at that for the moment. It won't be EatingAsia in book form.
Thank you to Robyn for providing the photo.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

On The Table: Marivic Diaz-Lim

On the Table: Marivic Diaz-Lim
Chef Marivic Diaz-Lim

Remember Tribeca? How about Ñ? If you remember these places, then you would very familiar with the creations of Chef Marivic Diaz-Lim, chef and owner of the ever-popular Apartment 1B. After taking a break to attend to more domestic affairs, Chef Diaz-Lim decided to return and open this restaurant that has become a mecca for food that delights the stomach and warms the heart. Pure comfort food at its very best.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My Grandma Anita and Auntie Deanna are the people in my life that influenced my cooking. I grew up watching and helping them prepare home cooked meals for our Sunday lunches.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

The New Professional Chef Book which was one of the textbooks assigned to us while I was in the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. It had the biggest impact since it was the first professional cook book I read in the beginning of my learning experience in the field of Culinary Arts.

What was your first job in the food business?

My first job after graduating from the CIA in 1993 was as a Commis chef at the Mark Hotel in NYC.

When did you decide you wanted to open Apartment 1B?


I decided to open Apt. 1b around the time my son turned 1 year old. I had been in the restaurant business since 1996 and went on a break when I got married in late 2003. In 2006 I realized that I needed to fulfill my passion, which is cooking.

What is you favorite item on your menu?


It is my Honey-Bourbon Baby Back Ribs but having said that I love everything I cook.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?


I can’t name just one restaurant meal. In general, my dining experiences in Paris are most memorable.

Besides your own place, what is your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Right now it is Shinjuku on Makati Avenue, it is where I have my Japanese comfort food like tempura, gyoza, fried rice and wakame salad.

What junk food do you love?

If you consider ice cream as junk food, it's Haagen Dazs and for real junk food, it's Clover chips (original cheese flavor).

Is there a food you just can’t seem to enjoy?

Yes, I can’t seem to enjoy raw food (sashimi, oysters etc.). I also do not enjoy spicy food too much.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I plan to expand my business concept abroad.
Apartment 1B
Unit 1B G/F One Lafayette Square
132 L.P. Leviste cor. Sedeno Sts.,
Salcedo Village, Makati City
Tel. (02) 843-4075