Hole In the Wall: Chung Mi Rae

The Philippines has been experiencing a vast influx of Korean immigrants over the past several years. Korean grocery stores, Korean students in local universities, and even Korean call center agents are what you would now call normal. I’m pretty sure you must have at least one Korean restaurant in your neighborhood. They’re beginning to be quite a common sight these days. Like a water-filling station, a neighborhood isn’t complete without one. This is a good thing because I love Korean food. I make it a point to try out every new joint that opens. They’re usually family run independent establishments. A fact that I like because they’re not just thinking of making rent but that of carrying out their heirloom dishes as best as they can. Having been to a few Korean restaurants, I've at least learned to sort of make out the ones that are better than others.

One of the better places I’ve been to is called Chung Mi Rae. Besides being the name of the restaurant, it is also a woman’s name. Probably the woman I see in the ragged t-shirt and pambahay shorts who chats with the Korean denizens between disappearing into what I assume is the kitchen. I haven’t been here in a few months and was surprised to find it had been renovated - looking more like a modern Asian living room than its old, functional self. This place proves that a hole-in-the-wall need not necessarily be a dive. Thank god the food hasn't been adversely affected by the aesthetic upgrade.

The banchan or the side dishes arrive first. I particularly like how they do banchan here. Freshly made with still-crisp vegetables (whatever in season) and sprouts, tasty fish, bean cakes and kimchi without that metallic aftertaste found in bottled kimchi. These are meant to go along with every Korean meal. I’m pretty wary of so called “Korean” joints that charge you per kind of banchan to go with your food.

The doengjang chige arrives next. It’s a very typical Korean soup made of fermented bean paste, shellfish, tofu and vegetables. So hearty you would think there was beef in there. It's also very spicy. This soup spooned over rice and eaten with banchan is actually enough to make a satisfying meal already. I’ve tried quite a few of these in different establishments and hands down this is the most flavorful I’ve had.

We also ordered the haemul pajeon, or the seafood pancake. This eggy marvel served on a heavy cast iron plate is crispy at the edges and filled with just the right amount of oysters, squid and scallions. The kimchi jeon or kimchi pancake is also worth trying out.

Bulgogi served in other joints are usually these sorry, brown looking strips of beef on a plate. But here I quite like that they balance out the meat with vegetables. Scallions, enoki and shiitake mushrooms, carrots and onions top the grilled marinated fatty beef slices. At the bottom of the grill pan are cellophane noodles that sop up all the sweet-salty sauce. Excellent.

Quite a lot of food for two. We actually also ordered some kimbap to start but it came late in the meal and we were already full. Possibly the best way to experience more of the great dishes in Chung Mi Rae, or your friendly neighborhood Korean restaurant, is to bring a handful of friends and just let the soju and conversation flow.

I have only one question - what's up with these blasted metal chopsticks?!

Chung Mi Rae

Off the corner of Timog Ave and Scout Tuazon St,

Quezon City

Hole in the Wall: Hunan Lutong Bahay

from top left, clockwise
Braised Pork, Hot Pot Duck, Cua Pao and Cold Pig's Ears

I hate eavesdroppers.

While having a dimsum brunch at Jasmine with Stitch and his lovely wife, M, our conversation meanders between work, the kids, mutual friends but eventually settles on our favorite topic -- food. Specifically, we are having a semi-heated rant session on why there is a lack of Chinese regional cuisine in Manila nowadays. While the rest of the world is discovering the wildly wondrous tastes and texture of China, it seems that local gastronomes are stuck with the same Cantonese same-old same-old.

“Where is our Sichuan Pepper Pork Belly?!” I demand as I suck on the last of the chicken feet.

From out of nowhere, our server suggests, “If you like spicy food, there is a restaurant near Rockwell you might like…” He continues to refill our empty teacups. At first, I was taken aback. The server continues, “It is a small place. No sign. But the food is very good and very hot. I’ll get you the address,” he adds as removes the empty bamboo steamers from the table and disappears into the kitchen. There is a pause at the table. But knowing my dining guests, we are all having the same thought bubble: We are so eating there.

A few months later, I find myself strolling down an empty road in a less glitzy area of the neighboring Rockwell. Having eaten at (what is popularly called) Hunan Lutong Bahay, Stitch suggested that we park our cars at the mall because parking can be problem. In fact, there is no parking. “And we have to get there early. It gets packed quickly.” he recommends. It’s just past 10 am, the summer sun is beating down and I am starving. “Where the heck is this place?” I grumble as Stitch gleefully leads the way.

Hunan Lutong Bahay is not so much a restaurant as a small townhouse with more than the usual dining tables. As mentioned by the intrusive server, there is no sign. A white and beige exterior greets would-be diners, echoing an interior just as plain and unadorned. For me, this is not a minus. Those of you who have been reading this blog will know that I love small, austere eateries that focus on only important thing, the food.

Hunan regional dishes are the specialty of the house. (For more information on Hunan cuisine, check out this blog.). Since Stitch and I share a long-standing obsession with all that is pork, it comes as no surprise that we start our meal with plate of Cold Pig’s Ears (P180). Thin slices of pig’s ears are boiled till tender and served with soy-vinegar sauce and a bit of a chili kick. Stitch excitedly suggests we also order the Braised Pork Belly (P240), slices of slow cooked pork belly served on top of braised bitter greens. What I love about these dishes are the layers of both textures and flavors that each dish brings. From the gelatinous to the crunchy, from butter-like fatness to porky earthiness, each pork dish brings a different experience with every bite.

While I love my pig, I also adore duck in equal measure. I literally could hear the Hot Pot Duck (P400) call my name. Local ducks are rough cut into bite-sized pieces, blended with aromatic mixture of bay leaves and dried red chilis and gradually braised in its own fat. The end result is a duck dish with its caramelized sweetness counterpointed by subtle, slow-building chili heat. Here is a friendly suggestion. While the kitchen provides each guest unlimited bowls of white rice, I would still order a generous plate of Cua Pao(P80). These puffy clouds of steamed goodness are perfect for sopping up the delectable sauces and flavorful braising liquids at the bottom of every plate.

I still dislike eavesdroppers. But eavesdroppers with valuable foodie information, I think I will make an exception.

Much thanks to Stitch for showing me around.

Hunan Lutong Bahay
6404 Camia Street
Makati City
Cel: (0915) 425 2972 or (0927) 787 6999