Hole In the Wall: Chung Mi Rae

The Philippines has been experiencing a vast influx of Korean immigrants over the past several years. Korean grocery stores, Korean students in local universities, and even Korean call center agents are what you would now call normal. I’m pretty sure you must have at least one Korean restaurant in your neighborhood. They’re beginning to be quite a common sight these days. Like a water-filling station, a neighborhood isn’t complete without one. This is a good thing because I love Korean food. I make it a point to try out every new joint that opens. They’re usually family run independent establishments. A fact that I like because they’re not just thinking of making rent but that of carrying out their heirloom dishes as best as they can. Having been to a few Korean restaurants, I've at least learned to sort of make out the ones that are better than others.

One of the better places I’ve been to is called Chung Mi Rae. Besides being the name of the restaurant, it is also a woman’s name. Probably the woman I see in the ragged t-shirt and pambahay shorts who chats with the Korean denizens between disappearing into what I assume is the kitchen. I haven’t been here in a few months and was surprised to find it had been renovated - looking more like a modern Asian living room than its old, functional self. This place proves that a hole-in-the-wall need not necessarily be a dive. Thank god the food hasn't been adversely affected by the aesthetic upgrade.

The banchan or the side dishes arrive first. I particularly like how they do banchan here. Freshly made with still-crisp vegetables (whatever in season) and sprouts, tasty fish, bean cakes and kimchi without that metallic aftertaste found in bottled kimchi. These are meant to go along with every Korean meal. I’m pretty wary of so called “Korean” joints that charge you per kind of banchan to go with your food.

The doengjang chige arrives next. It’s a very typical Korean soup made of fermented bean paste, shellfish, tofu and vegetables. So hearty you would think there was beef in there. It's also very spicy. This soup spooned over rice and eaten with banchan is actually enough to make a satisfying meal already. I’ve tried quite a few of these in different establishments and hands down this is the most flavorful I’ve had.

We also ordered the haemul pajeon, or the seafood pancake. This eggy marvel served on a heavy cast iron plate is crispy at the edges and filled with just the right amount of oysters, squid and scallions. The kimchi jeon or kimchi pancake is also worth trying out.

Bulgogi served in other joints are usually these sorry, brown looking strips of beef on a plate. But here I quite like that they balance out the meat with vegetables. Scallions, enoki and shiitake mushrooms, carrots and onions top the grilled marinated fatty beef slices. At the bottom of the grill pan are cellophane noodles that sop up all the sweet-salty sauce. Excellent.

Quite a lot of food for two. We actually also ordered some kimbap to start but it came late in the meal and we were already full. Possibly the best way to experience more of the great dishes in Chung Mi Rae, or your friendly neighborhood Korean restaurant, is to bring a handful of friends and just let the soju and conversation flow.

I have only one question - what's up with these blasted metal chopsticks?!

Chung Mi Rae

Off the corner of Timog Ave and Scout Tuazon St,

Quezon City

My Top Five Dishes Worth Writing Home About by Our Table Guest, The Bag Hag

Mousseline de Pommes de Terre Ratte

When Franco asked me to be a guest writer for this well- respected blog, Table for Three, Please, I was honored. Flattered. Floored. I didn't think my love for food would give me the opportunity to actually write about food on a food writer's blog, but here I am. All I can say is this-- I am extremely grateful for the opportunity! *Thank youuu Franco!!! :)*

Let me now write about some of the most memorable dishes I've had-- here and abroad!

Paris, France: At Taillevent. One of the most important restaurants in Paris, awarded with 2 Michelin stars for excellence. My most unforgettable dish: Mousseline de Pommes de Terre Ratte.

This most exquisite dish of puréed potatoes, topped with a circumference of finely minced black truffles, came full circle in the taste department with the egg yolk center. I’ve honestly never had anything so remarkable and if I may say, gastronomically orgasmic—it was like tasting heaven on my lips. The plating itself was an aesthetic achievement and was almost too beautiful to eat. Every single bite was worth savoring-- especially since the dish came with a hefty price tag-- at 95 Euros!

Mussels with Frites

Paris, France: From a high in the price department (Taillevent fits the bill), comes the low. Nothing beats a good plateful of Moules et Frites or mussels with fries in Paris. I never fail to have moules et frites each time I'm in Paris just because. And La Cremaillere serves this dish well.

I quite prefer the size of the mussels at this restaurant, La Cremaillere (at Montmartre-- yes, yes it's a tourist trap, but it's a good place!) than Leon de Bruxelles, which has since started serving smaller mussels. The fries at La Cremaillere are much, much better too!

Jumbo Siopao

Manila, Philippines: A few of the best meals I've had are actually from takeout food! Emerald Garden's elusive siopao is a constant favorite-- if I get to order them!

It's actually quite crazy that when I crave for their siopao, they're always already out! I always have to seek my dear mommy's help to order these elusive buns :( So on those odd times that I get to wake up early enough to place that call to reserve, I feast on the bola bola siopao. I always make sure to order the jumbo siopao, just in case I can't satisfy my siopao craving :).

Hainanese Chicken

Manila, Philippines: Chef Stevie's Hainanese Chicken. I love hainanese chicken. Always have. I've tried some of the best ones in Singapore and wished they'd serve good ones here in the Philippines. And then there was Tao Yuan where my friend would buy takeouts of the chicken for me. I loved it. Hainanese chicken is a very good "takeout" dish because the chicken is not supposed to be served hot. So relax, you don't really have to rush home to eat the dish after you have picked up your order. :) For awhile, I was already good with Tao Yuan's version. But after I was introduced to Chef Steven's Hainanese Chicken and his chicken rice (which is oh soooo good), I became a convert and am still so hooked! I can attribute my weight gain to Chef Steven's chicken rice, really! And though I complain about having gained the weight, I'd still never refuse that chicken rice when offered!

Pecorino and Ricotta Ravioli with Honey

Manila, Philippines: Mandarin Oriental Manila Paseo Uno's Ravioli di Pecorino e Ricotta con Miele. It's safe to say that I am not a desserts person. I don't think I have a sweet tooth, as I can go months without eating anything sweet. And then I tasted this at Mandarin Oriental Manila's Paseo Uno. Mandarin Oriental currently has this Cucina Romana Italian Food Festival and there's this dessert called Ravioli di pecorino e ricotta con miele (ravioli with pecorino and ricotta and honey) that jumpstarted my craving for sweets. The taste has not left my mouth and I can't stop wishing that I had more. Looks like I'm popping by Paseo Uno again in the next day or so just to have more of this ravioli!

Oh and to all those bagloving foodlovers out there, may I recommend using a light bag when you are about to have that feast? Believe me, you do NOT want to be lugging around a house on your shoulders after a heavy meal. So, in the spirit of being a food- loving baghag, I'd like to recommend you use a shopping tote from from French bagmaker Hervé Chapelier.

It may be nondescript, but it still is exquisite (quality is excellent), discreet, and certainly not too commonplace :) * Just like the way I like my food :)*

x
Mrs. T

Franco’s Note: Much thanks to Mrs. Jackie T. of Bag Hag Dairies

Table Suggestions: Miele Guide Application

I have always been an ardent supporter of The Miele Guide.

Ever since its inaugural issue in 2008, The Miele Guide has helped place Asian dining at the forefront of the world culinary scene. Every year, the Guide assesses restaurants across Asia and lists not only the top 20 restaurants in the region but also the best restaurants in several Asian cities. Through a meticulous and unbiased system of selection, The Miele Guide highlights establishments that represent outstanding excellence in dining - Asia’s best by Asian standards.

Last month, Ate Publishing, the publishers of The Miele Guide, asked me if I would like to try their latest innovation. Although the print version of The Miele Guide is already pocket-friendly, Ate Publishing, with the help of application developers The Dumpling Dimension, has created The Miele Guide iPhone Application.

“The Miele Guide iPhone application provides iPhone users full access to the latest edition of The Miele Guide (in this case the 2009/2010 edition), whenever they want and wherever they are. Users will be able to search through detailed profiles of Asia’s best 450 restaurants, which include reviews and restaurant details such as its website, phone number, opening hours, and the accepted methods of payment.

Functionality and simplicity were priorities in developing this stylish new application. A range of flexible search options makes finding restaurants a breeze. Users can search by the restaurant’s name; its ranking in the guide, location (city and country) or by cuisine. Calling a restaurant is just one tap away, and so too is opening up a restaurant’s website or finding it on the application’s preloaded maps.

Users will love this application’s ability to plug into the phone’s GPS capabilities. With the application, foodies on the go will be able to detect their current location and get recommendations for nearby restaurants. Tapping on the ‘Map Views’ feature will then offer up easy to use directions on how to get to these restaurants. Further, through the application’s preloaded maps, users can, without having to eat up data charges, search for restaurants in any Asian city using the phone’s Map View, choosing where to eat based on location.

The application also has a ‘Favorites’ function, which allows users to quickly highlight and recall restaurants they love or want to visit.”

Content-wise, the print and digital version of the Guide are virtually the same. But what makes the iPhone application a unique experience are the search options and the ability of iPhone to immediately connect you to your restaurant of choice. With a tap of a screen, not only can you find the right restaurant based upon it's location and cuisine but also contact the chosen restaurant directly via their address, phone or website. An obvious downside is the hardware. Without an iPhone or an iTouch with an updated operating system, the app is useless. However, I have heard that Blackberry users will be able to enjoy the application in June.

The Guide for the iPhone and iTouch has raised the bar on the interactivity of the written word, providing a richer, more informative experience. It is an experience that is literally in the palm of your hand.

The Miele Guide iPhone application is currently selling for US$ 4.99 at the Apple App Store via iTunes.

Voting for the 2010/2011 edition of The Miele Guide is now open. Please click here and help place the Philippine dining scene on the culinary map.

Table Conversation: On Nostalgia

Companies have been reissuing things from the past quite a bit lately. Remember those sneakers of days passed? I couldn't afford them then. Now these same styles are back in vogue and I definitely still can’t afford them now. There’s also the bad 80’s fashion which fashion houses have tweaked, rehashed and are now selling like new. How about those expensive upgrades of cars like the Mini and the Beetle? They've definitely moved away from their more populist beginnings. I suppose that's the price of nostalgia.

With food, I’m not sure if this holds true. Some foods of my youth are still readily available (Barrio Fiesta Crispy Pata, Kimpura Tepanyaki) and some have ceased to exist (McD’s breakfast biscuits, Arby’s roast beef sandwiches).

For foods that have gone, we try to look for alternatives to try and bring back some memories. Take for example, the large blue tins of Planter’s Cheez Balls and Curls. (And that silly Mr. Peanut in a top hat.) They were quite popular back in 80’s and were readily available in supermarkets and “PX” stores. Then, they just disappeared. Over the years, new tubs of similarly artificially yellow-orange tinted snacks would appear but they'd never make the grade. But after decades of searching, a new blue product recently appeared in the supermarket shelves. Emulating the old Planter’s tin design, the Nabisco Cheez Mania Cheese Curls and Balls are my current addiction: cheesy and buttery in flavor, crunchy but not too greasy and not dizzyingly salty that I can easily finish a tin in one sitting. Does it live up to the Planter’s fable? Frankly, I don’t even remember what that tastes like anymore. More so at P65 for a Nabisco can, it makes moving on from that memory quite painlessly feasible.

Table Conversation: And The Winners Are...

On March 17, Spot.ph and Nestle announced the winners of the 2009 Nescafe Gold Spot Awards.

I was honored to be a judge for this year's awards. Some of the winners were expected. Others came as a complete surprise, even for us judges. I do encourage restaurant awards like this one. Not so much for the competition but more to recognize the long hours and hard work that has gone into creating these beloved food establishments. I hope this kind of acknowledgement pushes restaurants and shops to provide better products, more delicious food and more attentive service. If they win, we the guests and customers win as well.

To see the complete list of winners, please click here.

Tell us what you think of this year's winners?

Hole in the Wall: Hunan Lutong Bahay

from top left, clockwise
Braised Pork, Hot Pot Duck, Cua Pao and Cold Pig's Ears

I hate eavesdroppers.

While having a dimsum brunch at Jasmine with Stitch and his lovely wife, M, our conversation meanders between work, the kids, mutual friends but eventually settles on our favorite topic -- food. Specifically, we are having a semi-heated rant session on why there is a lack of Chinese regional cuisine in Manila nowadays. While the rest of the world is discovering the wildly wondrous tastes and texture of China, it seems that local gastronomes are stuck with the same Cantonese same-old same-old.

“Where is our Sichuan Pepper Pork Belly?!” I demand as I suck on the last of the chicken feet.

From out of nowhere, our server suggests, “If you like spicy food, there is a restaurant near Rockwell you might like…” He continues to refill our empty teacups. At first, I was taken aback. The server continues, “It is a small place. No sign. But the food is very good and very hot. I’ll get you the address,” he adds as removes the empty bamboo steamers from the table and disappears into the kitchen. There is a pause at the table. But knowing my dining guests, we are all having the same thought bubble: We are so eating there.

A few months later, I find myself strolling down an empty road in a less glitzy area of the neighboring Rockwell. Having eaten at (what is popularly called) Hunan Lutong Bahay, Stitch suggested that we park our cars at the mall because parking can be problem. In fact, there is no parking. “And we have to get there early. It gets packed quickly.” he recommends. It’s just past 10 am, the summer sun is beating down and I am starving. “Where the heck is this place?” I grumble as Stitch gleefully leads the way.

Hunan Lutong Bahay is not so much a restaurant as a small townhouse with more than the usual dining tables. As mentioned by the intrusive server, there is no sign. A white and beige exterior greets would-be diners, echoing an interior just as plain and unadorned. For me, this is not a minus. Those of you who have been reading this blog will know that I love small, austere eateries that focus on only important thing, the food.

Hunan regional dishes are the specialty of the house. (For more information on Hunan cuisine, check out this blog.). Since Stitch and I share a long-standing obsession with all that is pork, it comes as no surprise that we start our meal with plate of Cold Pig’s Ears (P180). Thin slices of pig’s ears are boiled till tender and served with soy-vinegar sauce and a bit of a chili kick. Stitch excitedly suggests we also order the Braised Pork Belly (P240), slices of slow cooked pork belly served on top of braised bitter greens. What I love about these dishes are the layers of both textures and flavors that each dish brings. From the gelatinous to the crunchy, from butter-like fatness to porky earthiness, each pork dish brings a different experience with every bite.

While I love my pig, I also adore duck in equal measure. I literally could hear the Hot Pot Duck (P400) call my name. Local ducks are rough cut into bite-sized pieces, blended with aromatic mixture of bay leaves and dried red chilis and gradually braised in its own fat. The end result is a duck dish with its caramelized sweetness counterpointed by subtle, slow-building chili heat. Here is a friendly suggestion. While the kitchen provides each guest unlimited bowls of white rice, I would still order a generous plate of Cua Pao(P80). These puffy clouds of steamed goodness are perfect for sopping up the delectable sauces and flavorful braising liquids at the bottom of every plate.

I still dislike eavesdroppers. But eavesdroppers with valuable foodie information, I think I will make an exception.

Much thanks to Stitch for showing me around.

Hunan Lutong Bahay
6404 Camia Street
Makati City
Cel: (0915) 425 2972 or (0927) 787 6999

The Travelling Table: Kee Wah Bakery

Another enterprise with humble beginnings, Kee Wah Bakery is now a household name in Hong Kong, the Chinese Mainland and Taiwan. It has presence in Northern America and Japan as well. They’ve been specializing in teacakes and pastries since 1938 and what I like about them is not only have they grown in size but they’ve also adapted to the times in terms of store and product aesthetics. Given that they’ve maintained the quality of its products, they also come up with new and improved items every so often. Proof of this is the dizzying array of cakes and pastries in every store; literally hundreds of varieties to choose from.

A winner are the bean cakes. I know, I know, you’re thinking hopia, but these are different. Super flaky and soft, you can leave dimples on them just by touching them. This particular one I got had Chinese ham infused with the sweet bean mixture and embedded inside was a whole salted duck egg yolk. Very Decadent.

One sure pick would be their famous pineapple shortcakes. As you take them out of the package the sweet sticky fruit smell immediately hits the nose. The crumbly, buttery crust almost disintegrates instantly (mostly on my shirt though) when bitten into. I was never really into pineapple cakes in general, but I guess that was before I actually ever tasted these. Some variants come with nuts mixed in the filling.

I forget what these cookies are called but I’m sure they’re made with egg whites, black sesame seeds and tons of butter. It provides a hard crunch similar to a biscotti and I can imagine it goes really well with a cup of tea. Does anyone know what it's called? Please help me sleep.

If you step in a Kee Wah store and can’t make up your mind what to get, try their assortment packs that come in sleek colored tins and some in handsome gift boxes. Individually wrapped biscuits and other treats are also cleverly packaged along with loose tea leaves. I definitely wouldn’t mind getting one of these as a present. And most definitely a great pasalubong alternative to the champoy.

Kee Wah Bakery
Web: www.kee-wah.com.hk

The Travelling Table: Griddled Goodies

A Warm Bag of Gen Dan Jai

You could literally walk for a few kilometers while doing the rounds of street shopping in Hong Kong. In places like Granville, Mongkok and Lai Chi Kok, some shops close around midnight on a daily basis. Fortunately lots of food stalls can be found everywhere for weary shoppers. From a variety of skewered undiscernible animal parts, fried vegetable fritters, simmered meatballs in funky gravy and tofu - all good, mind you. But nothing will probably keep you going more than the street shopper’s power bar, the Gei Dan Jai. Basically, it's a waffle. Nothing more, nothing less. Except, I suppose nothing beats a hot, freshly made one.

Fresh off the Griddle

Special waffle irons churn out these giant bubble-top shapes. For HK$10, you get these smoldering treats in a thin brown paper bag. You carefully detach a piece (requiring some dexterity so as not to burn one’s fingers) and pop in your mouth. As with any properly cooked waffle, you get the soft, chewy middle with bits of those thin crispy crusty edges where the griddles meet. It has this wonderfully eggy, custardy aroma. Fantastic.

Other variations come with fillings such as chocolate and taro paste. A certified old-school street treat.

Table Suggestions: Beijing Handed-Pulled Noodles

Braised Beef Dry Noodles

There are noodles and then are hand-pulled noodles.

While discuss arrangements for a party, Chef Him Uy de Baron enthusiastically told me about this little place in Little Baguio that made amazing Chinese noodles--simple, flavorful, handmade noodles made by a guy who “just got off the boat from China.” I’m not sure if the "just got off the boat" part is true but being the consummate lover of noodles and of small dining places, I decided to pay Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles a visit.

Fried Pork Dumplings

Over the past couple of years, J. Abad Santos and its adjacent byways have become an interestingly diverse epicenter of dining. From Mexican tacos to Italian lasagna, from Shanghainese Xiao Long Bao to Taiwanese bubble tea, from cheap-ass steaks and the best (at least, in my humble opinion) Cantonese fast food, the choices seem almost boundless. But tonight I am looking for a nice bowl of noodles.

Ingredients-wise, hand-pulled noodles are not particularly unique. Wheat flour, water, salt are all that is needed to make noodles. But what make these particular noodles into the strands of goodness are the swift and adept hands of a noodle chef. At Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles, this process happens with every order, on the hour, every hour. Thus, every customer is assured a bowl of freshly made noodles with every visit.

Sea Grass

A. asks to split a bowl of Braised Beef Dry Noodles (P130). The servings are generous enough so I heartily agree. Besides, I need to save some space for the other tempting side dishes I spy on the menu. Our bowls are simple: quickly boiled noodles covered in reddish beef broth and garnished with cubes of delicately braised beef, minced garlic, slices of red chilies and stalks of bak choy. With just enough spicy kick to keep interesting, each chopstick-full is warm and comforting. Wanting to try some side dishes, we place an order of Deep-fried Pork Dumplings (P70) and an intriguing plate of Sea Grass (P70).

The fried dumplings truly hit the spot–a crispy, golden brown shell surrounding a savory center of minced Chinese sausage, herby greens, pork meat and fat. Dipped in a tangy dipping sauce, each dumpling is raised to a new mouthwatering level. The sea grass is another story. Being a sucker for the strange and unusual, the name draws me in. But what arrives at the table does not so much resemble grass as it does an oddly sea green pasta. I appreciate its interesting taste which had a distinct flavor of seaweed. That is, of course, if you could get beyond the rubbery mouth feel and the slightly over-powering zing of the black vinegar dressing.

Admittedly, Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles is not for everybody. I've heard some people complain about the lack of a more extensive menu or even that food is so unadorned that it borders on the boring. I guess it a matter of perspective. For me, the fact that their focus is making great noodles and that they are more concerned with flavor than impressing you with fancy plating, makes this place a true comfort food destination. This is one restaurant I would not mind coming back to again and again.

Beijing Hand-Pulled Noodles

Unit 4

Citiplace Building

J Abad Santos Street

San Juan City

Tel: (02) 487 6148