Sunday, May 27, 2007

Table Conversation: The Great Dining Experience


Images from the Dining Experience


Franco says:

Question: What makes an amazing dining experience?

Sharky says:

Oh Franco, this is such a HARD question!!!

An amazing dining experience must cover the basics --- good food, relaxing ambiance, and excellent customer service.

What makes a dining experience outstanding is the discovery or revelation of something new or, even more awesome, a new take on something familiar. Examples for the former are the first time I tried foie gras or the first time I tried diwal or the first time I tried sinigang using batuan as a souring agent. For the latter, examples are the goya chips in Hatsuhana Tei and the "westernized" sushis of Omakase.


Kate says:

I travel a bit for my job. One of the perks during a tiring business trip is being taken out and treated by your partners to fancy dinners. One trip that I distinctly remember, food-wise, was to London a few years ago. I had never eaten so well, in so short a time, in an expensive country where being a peso-earner was such a losing proposition. We were taken to The Savoy Grill, a Michelin-starred restaurant headed by Marcus Wareing, one of the UK's premier chefs. We had lunch at Jasper Conran's resturant in a quaint shopping street in London. Another night, we feasted on innards of cows and pigs in St. John--a happening little place located near the meat market where they served kidney, bone marrow, tongue, skate cheeks, exotic fare in London. What thrilled me more than the food particularly in the two previous restaurants (I was very unimaginative in ordering steak and salmon) was the opportunity to bask in the fiefdom of celebrity chefs, something I would never have been able to afford on my own, and to try the new (which, for me, is the essence of travel).


Franco says:

You are absolutely right, Sharky.

Now that I'm trying to answer my own question, I'm finding it hard to answer.

I agree with you about covering the basics, the food, the place and the service but how about the company?

When I would travel alone, I remember hating to eat at restaurant by myself. No matter how beautiful the restaurant, personalize the service or sublime the food, I just could not stand the idea of not have someone to experience the moment with. Thank God for books and magazines. It became an exercise in providing myself sustenance and getting on with the day.

Being with the right people, feasting on a meal of steaming white rice and sticks of pork barbecue from a stall in Tiendesitas can be more delicious than a degustation menu from a four-star hotel restaurant.

Isn't odd that one could be dining in the finest of French restaurants and yet, want to have a burger or chicken inasal?


Sharky says:

I guess I'm not a multi-tasker. I actually like eating alone and would even schedule a food day just for myself. : ) I just like food and people so much that I find it hard to concentrate when I'm accompanied by both. Does that make sense? Save for ice cream, yogurt, or soup, I can't read nor watch tv while eating. These distract me from the food. : )

But I do understand where you're coming from. I remember Lori of Dessert Comes First telling me that perhaps the reason why I think some of my lola's dishes remain to be the best is not really the taste of these dishes, but the memories that come along with it.

What do you think?


Kate says:

My most amazing dining experience is a cliche. It was our wedding dinner held in a charming resstaurant nestled in the hills of Tagaytay. They say that you'll barely remember your wedding dinner. They weren't completely right. I remember the tartness of the salady, the little bits of Indian mango skin that added extra bite to the sorbet, the thick, delicious, juicy-ness of the steak, the chocolate-y creaminess of the souffle. (What I don't remember is how the wedding cake tasted like.) But what made it amazing wasn't really the food but the love that surrounded us that night. It was amazing to see family and friends coming together to celebrate a once-in-a-lifetime moment and to be part of a special night that we had waited for so long and long prepared for.


Franco says:

My family has always been big on food. My wife once said that my mother, who was born of a generation that did not openly express emotion, expressed her love for her family by preparing flavourful meals everyday.

I believe those early memories of sitting down to dinner with family and friends, eating food prepared with love and care leave lasting impressions of what we perceive as great food or even an amazing dining experience.

Thus, the idea of what comfort food should be and what it should taste like.

I don't ignore the fact that experience of food can be an end in itself. Food is an expression to a point where one can experience it like a form of art. But unlike other art forms, food can be understood on more sensory levels, specifically taste. Like what Kate said, sometimes basking in the culinary genius of some chefs is enough to leave a lasting memory, long after you have forgotten what exactly you ate.

For me, the dining experience is always social. From the preparation of the meal to sitting down to savoring it to sharing the experience with others, food can be and should be a conduit for people to connect.

To end, let me quote Gourmet Magazine's editor extraordinaire (I'm a huge fan), Ruth Reichl from a interview she gave in May, 2001.

"To me what's important about food is that we sit down at a table and we stop our busy lives and pay attention to each other,...It's important."

To Kate, Thanks once again for sharing your dining thoughts.


Monday, May 21, 2007

My Yummy by our Table Guest, Becky Kho


Recently, the San Francisco-based Sunshine Girl asked me for a list of must-eats for her and her hubby, Click Mo Mukha Mo!, to try on their great Philippine homecoming. Their plan: “We’ll be visiting (and eating our way through) Manila, Cebu and Leyte…mega food trip, hehe.” So here’s the list I contributed for the Manila leg of their trip. All these fall under the category of “When I like something, I really like it and I’ll keep having it till…I don’t like it anymore”. In no particular order, here’s what I find yummy.

OMAKASE I heart the Spicy Tuna Salad, the Green Tea Soba, and the creative maki rolls.

CYMA Greek food is totally greek to me, so this was a pleasant surprise. I like the salad here (Roka Salata is arugula, Romaine, candied walnuts, sundried tomatoes, served with shaved Parmesan and Greek vinaigrette) and the pastas too. Haven't tried their lamb, but it seems to be a hit with many diners. Plus, very reasonable prices just like Omakase.

THAI KITCHEN My latest favorite! A buffet lunch is served daily for only P199 (with a glass of iced tea thrown in) and it is one hearty spread: bagoong rice with green mango slices, spicy sardines and lots of other fish dishes, chicken pandan, and moremoremore! It’s in Robinsons Galleria.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF Believe it or not, a coffee joint that serves decent food. Tops for me are the Turkey Apple Salad and Roast Beef Ciabatta.

M CAFÉ JAZZ BRUNCH Haven’t officially tried it; I only had a taste here and there during our shoot for the magazine (the review’s in the June 2007 issue of YUMMY), but it’s a well designed spread (and space), just what you’d expect from a café that sits beside a museum. Perfect for a lazy Sunday morning.

RAZON’S I’m not a fan of the traditional beany halo-halo; this one's more my speed: leche flan on top, saging na saba and macapuno strips tucked in, and the finest shaved ice all around. Love their pansit luglug also! Razon’s seems to be in every mall food court, but if you want a more peaceful space to savor your halo-halo, head for their café in Greenhills. (Although now that the temperature’s soaring, there's actually a halo-halo pandemonium every time I drop by...)

FISH & CO. I like their classic fish and chips (it doesn't have that fried/greasy ickiness) and their fried calamari (the only calamari I've managed to like: very thinly sliced circles, unrubbery, and lovely with a squeeze of lemon).

QITCHEN My associate food editor's home-based food biz. Shar Tan makes the best banana cream pie! I love her carrot cake too. The Mango Shortcake looks delish, but I haven't tried it yet. Sharky ordered it last weekend, and is all raves. For orders, visit http://qitchen.blogspot.com.

RED OVEN If you like tapa, order from Red Oven by Carina Guevara. Carina always serves it when we have a shoot at her house, with garlic rice and sunny-side-up eggs. Sarap! For orders, call 434-0901 or 0920-9065650.

DOME & CHEESECAKE ETC I must mention my favorite city coffees: the Affogato in Dome and the Espresso Perfetto in Cheesecake Etc. If you happen to need a coffee break while malling…

AMICI DI DON BOSCO
Unfortunately, sadly, I came very very late to the Amici party. Many have loved this cafeteria-type place for years now, but my love affair with it started just recently. The Gorgonzola pizza, I’ve renamed Gorgonzolove pizza. And delightfully, the gelatos bring on that Italian feeling even if you’re a Chinese girl sitting in Makati.

Franco's Note: Becky Kho is the Editor of Yummy Magazine

Thursday, May 17, 2007

Our New Look

We decided to improve the look of our blog. Just a little. So what do you think? Your comments would be greatly appreciated.

To Paolo, your contributions to this makeover are beyond measure. Many, many thanks.

The Three


Sunday, May 13, 2007

On the Table: Chef Florabel Co of Florabel






After ten years of working at Le Souffle, Chef Florabel Co decided to strike out on her own with much success. She began by providing clients South Beach style meals delivered to their homes and then, in December 2005, opening her first restaurant, Florabel. Since then her little culinary empire has grown: Cafe Ten Titas, Sumo Sam and Floring's Famous BBQ. The future seems very bright for this young enterprising chef.








Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

No one really. I think my love of food moved me more. But, I did have an aunt, my father’s sister, who taught me how to make bow tarts which I sold along with chocolate crinkles at school.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry Cookbook. I will be interning there [the French Laundry] in July.

What was your first job in the food business?

At Via Mare. I was a pantry girl and I assisted with the desserts.

When did you decide you wanted to open Florabel?

After working at Le Soufflé for 10 years, you dream of opening your own place. And besides, I had been opening, consulting and being part owner of other places. So, I thought, why not open my own?

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

I like the Veal Rack which will be on the menu in June. I also like our Salmon Duo.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Dinner at Tetsuya's in Sydney with my former boss, Jessie Sincioco [of Le Souffle]. She treated me. And dinner at Jean Georges in New York

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Le Soufflé, of course. Abe at the Serendra. I love comfort food.

What junk food do you love?

Spam, mung beans and butong pakwan

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

None. Everything is tolerable. Maybe ampalaya, but even that I can tolerate.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I want to open a chain of Floring Famous BBQ and open Florabel Greenbelt 5 in October.


Florabel
G/F, The Podium
ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center
Mandaluyong City
Telephone: (632) 638-7527 or (632) 667-3220.

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Kitschy Kitschy Coup

At first I wasn’t sure if it was a tarot card reader in the corner or the waiter. It turns out it was a Balinese Wayang shadow puppet. I may have been confused by the waving porcelain Good Luck cat blocking the view. Either way, I can see what Sharky and Franco mean by eclectic, although eclectic doesn’t seem a big enough word to describe the interior of the lovely Café Juanita. The décor almost speaks for itself. To be thorough, here are a few more things to be found at Café Juanita:


Embroidered tablecloths, polyester for anti-stain
Crocheted seatback covers
Travel and wedding souvenirs
Bottles of wine, drunk long ago
The Tatler seal of approval
Upside-down umbrellas on the ceiling, possibly for an indoor squall or a quick singkil
The Last Supper
Time zones in San Francisco, Stockholm, and Café Juanita
Glass grapes, glass grapes, and glass grapes
Your Mama’s aparador with Chinese porcelain objects (for sale)
Crazy red hexagonal tasseled Chinese lanterns
Dreamy James Bond songs



Everything including the kitsch-en sink


Every day is Christmas at Café Juanita


Some might call it homey (if your mom is Madame Auring) or a charming neighborhood restaurant or a place to find comfort food. Thinking about that made me wonder: What does “comfort food” really mean? What defines a neighborhood restaurant? And what does it imply about our expectations? Do our standards rise or fall when the context changes?

It seems that for some, “comfort” refers to the emotional connection that food makes with the person eating it. For instance, my now-New Yorker Tita Conchita, upon trying The Choc-nut Cake at M Café, spewed out a wave of nostalgic joy over it, followed by “Wow, I haven’t tasted Choc-nut since 19…forgotten.” Or maybe it’s the familiarity—“It feels like my lola’s sala, I could take my shoes off in here.”

For others, perhaps the feeling of authenticity is what counts. If it’s old and came together organically over time, does the experience feel more real? Bubba Gump’s certainly looks old and comfortable, but it won’t convince anyone that they’re in a Louisiana shrimp shack.

Or is a certain semi-baduy factor required for the “comfort” label? I can’t envision a restaurant with beautiful design that I would call a neighborhood place. Does the neighborhood restaurant allow us to make an excuse for Monoblock chairs? (For the record, Café Juanita had none.)

More importantly, does the “comfort” label mean our standards will change if somebody has bad taste? If what we’re talking about is expectations, can you eat the exact same food in two restaurants and be happy in one because the place looked like a cafeteria and in the other be unhappy because the place looked so nice?

If the Peninsula served Café Juanita’s Balaw-Balaw salad to me in Old Manila, I might ask, who vomited on my plate? However, in Café Juanita, I thought the salad was surprisingly good. In Amici at Don Bosco on Pasay Road, I thought the food was fun. If they served the same Amici pasta in Paparazzi at Edsa Shangri-la Hotel, I’d say it was sloppy and unrefined.

I’m still curious, because I can’t figure it out. If you’re still reading at this point, enough of the machismo and on to the review…

The first dish, Balaw-Balaw Salad with Romaine, Arugula and Mustard Leaves (P174), was surprisingly good. In fact, it would have been a great dish if it actually had romaine, arugula and mustard leaves. The chef did get the fermented rice, shrimp, spices, and crispy phai phai bits right. Plus, a couple of surprise ingredients: sliced olives, and the most creative leaf of all—iceberg lettuce. Contrary to popular opinion, I rather enjoy the crisp, flavorless nature of iceberg.

The saving grace of the dish was the light vinaigrette which had a pleasant, mild ginger flavor. Even with iceberg lettuce, the combination of the sweet and savory dressing and balaw-balaw was interesting and refreshing. I can imagine its potential with other dishes, even something as odd as vanilla ice cream.

Balaw-Balaw Salad with Romaine, Arugula and Mustard Leaves (P174)

Following Sharky’s and Franco’s taste buds, Thai Crispy Catfish on Mango Salad (P152) was the next item in the lineup. The texture was perfect. The shredded, deep-fried catfish was not too oily and provided a pleasing contrast with the vinegary green mango. I especially liked the purple onions.

Thai Crispy Catfish on Mango Salad (P152)

With all due respect to the barangay, I would have bet my moustache that I couldn’t find Chao Thom Shrimp Dumplings Wrapped on Sugar Cane in Barrio Kapitolyo. I didn’t even know what that was, but it sounded exotic. But there it was, Chao Thom Shrimp Dumplings Wrapped on Sugar Cane (P257) or minced shrimp wrapped and grilled with rau thom (lettuce basil and mint). I’m glad I found it. Minus the mint and plus some sotanghon noodles, the dish was outstanding. The grilled, caramelized flavor was excellent. The sweet, spicy garlic chili sauce was a perfect complement.

Chao Thom Shrimp Dumplings Wrapped on Sugar Cane (P257)

The Sugpo sa Gata (P389) did not have the most inspiring presentation I have seen (although things look better when your meal is already going well) but this course was another winner at Café Juanita. Prawns simmered in fresh coconut milk with delicious soft onions, garlic, butter, and hints of chili. Greedily, I scooped up all of the sweet coconut sauce until the plate was clean.

Sugpo sa Gata (P389)

As I looked up at the clock and got the time in…San Francisco, Stockholm, and Café Juanita, the Pinoy Ratatoy (Ratatouille) (P149) arrived. It’s like taking a cute French dish and adding a Jinggoy Ejercito pompadour to it—I loved the name. In addition to the “sauteed traditional Pinoy tuyo with fresh tomato cubes and herbs on a bed of eggplant,” the dish was mixed with zucchini—or rather, courgettes—and capers. Slightly oily but an excellent French-inspired side dish.

Pinoy Ratatoy (Ratatouille) (P149)

After one and a half hours of nonstop eating, I realized I was thoroughly satisfied. The food was 5 for 5. Although the menu photos looked more NBI mug shot than epicurean delight, Café Juanita deserves credit for pulling off the kitsch and the homey feeling with surprisingly good food. If there is any criticism to be had, it was a disappointing ending when the staff closed down in a hurry, shutting off air conditioners and lights while we were still eating. Otherwise the service was outstanding and the staff knowledgeable and attentive.

I still don’t know what comfort refers to but if it means feeling good after a great meal, Café Juanita is the place to go. It’s also worth stopping by Café Juanita’s antique store next door, complete with turo-turo counter (where, according to some regulars, they serve the exact same Café Juanita food at a fraction of the regular price) with the restaurant’s daily specials.


Appetizers P134-239
Soups P66-155
Salads P152-292
Pasta P177-210
Mediterranean Entrees and Steaks P197-495
Filipino Flavors P114-439
Asian Favorites P146-455


Cafe Juanita
No.2 United cor. West Capitol
Bo. Kapitolyo, Pasig City
Telephone Number: (o2) 632-0357
Mobile: (0916) 554-8107

Sunday, May 6, 2007

Dinners I Dream Of by our Table Guest, ChichaJo

Because I am a novice cook, just adventuring happily, but also haphazardly, in my kitchen, I don’t usually cook for anyone I don’t know very well. Cooking to impress is too stressful, and I prefer feeding my immediate family and friends…people to whom I can say, in case of any culinary mishap, “Ok, we’re ordering pizza!”

In a horribly selfish double standard, I love being fed, especially by people who love food – and that means eating, preparing, cooking, buying, and everything else that goes with this obsession. I relish the care these people shower on their food, eager to explain every part of the process to you, up to the point of where they got their ginger, and oh-how-fresh it was in the market that morning. They weave a delicious spell through their stories, but most importantly through their food…in which all this dedication is evident…a love you can actually taste.

So, at whose table do I dream to dine?

Masayoshi Takayama – Iconic chef of Masa in Manhattan, famous for his sushi and his care in preparing only the best. Sushi is one of my favorite dining experiences…an experience that is dependent on the absolute quality of only a few ingredients, and a master’s talent in putting them together. Sublime in its simplicity. For this dinner it would just be Masa, me, and my husband (because he loves sushi as much as I do).

Jamie OliverHe is such a boy! He has so much energy and enthusiasm, and passion for food. And I must admit, I love the way he speaks…puts me in a trance. He seems like the kind of guy that would throw really fun dinner parties. Not wild-dance-on-tables-topless fun, but good-old-shimmying fun. I’d love to have my family over to dinner with his.

Ferran Adria – The mad scientist/chef behind El Bulli. Pushing the envelope of how we understand and experience food and flavor. Eating with him would be nothing short of an adventure into the far reaches of the food galaxy. I admire how he challenges us to question how our food should look, feel, and taste.

An Italian nonna from the countryside of Northern Italy– Professional chefs are great (and I have already chosen my share above) but eating authentic, homemade food, prepared by someone who probably has never used exact measurements, using a recipe handed down through generations…well, that is a whole other level of gastronomic experience. Oh, and we should dine al fresco.

My great grandfather – For paella. People say he made the best, standing over the paellera, ladle in one hand, wine in the other…a swig for him, a swig for the paella. I never got to meet him but he sounds like my kind of cook!

And for dessert:

Marie Antoinette – All manners of French sweets in obscene quantities. Costume balls. Versailles. Oh yes…let me eat cake!


Wednesday, May 2, 2007

On the Table: Chef Paul Poblador of Kusina Salud




After studying at the California Culinary Academy and various cooking stints, Chef Paul Poblador, along with his wife, Nina opened their first restaurant in Baquio, Salud Bistro. Following that success in October 2004, he took the culinary helm of his mother-in-law's Laguna home and Kusina Salud was reborn. Here, Chef Paul creates dishes that he describes as,"modern renditions, interpretations and combinations of classic Filipino dishes".







Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?


My wife. She has been there since the beginning. She gave me my first cookbook: a pasta encyclopedia.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

Marco Pierre White's White Heat: fabulous food, fab pictures and fab attitude. He's such a rock star.

What was your first job in the food business?

Part time cook at the Aviary. I used to chop up their sisig all night.

When did you decide you wanted to open Kusina Salud?

My mother-in-law wanted to try doing business in San Pablo, Laguna as we were doing so well in Baguio as Salud Bistro (in October 2004 before the meningogoccemia scare closed us down in May 2006).

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

Binagoongan and Kare-Kareng Dagat.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

We used to love Slaughterhouse in Baguio: fresh meat and cow blood in the wee hours of the morning. In the States, Blondie's Pizza in San Francisco: cheezy, sleazy and so American.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

In Manila, I would recommend Chef Ariel Manuel's Lolo Dad's. He's in a league of his own.

What junk food do you love?

Burgers and more burgers.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Okra, saluyot and other slimy veggies.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

To continue to serve good eats at good prices. That's a recipe for success. We do want to expand but to expand while keeping our quality standards intact is the whole gastronomic experience we aim to consistently deliver to our customers.


Cell: 0921-7726985
Laguna:
049-2466878
Manila:
02-6995035
Telefax:
02-6995036
kusinasalud@gmail.com


Please check their website for a map and directions to Kusina Salud.