The Travelling Table: Chainarong

Tired of bringing home the same tubes of spicy sampaloc from Bangkok for pasalubong? I suggest you try shopping at Chainarong, Bangkok's top purveyor of Thai style snack foods. It's one of my must-go shopping places when I'm in town and I must admit I tend to go a bit overboard on the snack food shopping. Biggest reason being the probably hundreds of varieties of edibles available. And if you're interested in something that seems too funky or foreign they always accommodate free sampling.

spicy anchovies, nuts and peas with tom yum herbs

What they're most popular for is their pork products as shredded pork, pork floss, bakkwa and Chinese style sausages. But my favorite would probably be the moo ping or crispy pork. They crisp up the super thin sheets of marinated pork right in the premises with these motorized convection ovens to assure they're always fresh. What do they taste like? Sweet, spicy and salty with a porky essence that's so unbelievably crunchy. Like lechon skin. Really. However way better for you in terms of the health department.

lechon skin-like moo ping


a sugar glazed version of the tom yum anchovies sans peas

They also carry sweet and savory chips of various fruits and vegetables; durian, taro, pumpkin, bananas, jackfruit, coconut, pineapple...the list goes on. And something that I never get tired of eating: tom yum anchovies. Crispy fried anchovies with nuts, peas and sesame seeds mixed in with tom yum herbs. I suppose it's their version of mixed nuts like our, er... Ding Dong? Very aromatic with all that kaffir lime and so addictive that I just have to bring several bags home every time.

The loot: all the food had to be put in a separate suitcase.

They've outlets in over 20 department stores all over the city but I usually go to the MBK branch; so while the wife goes crazy shopping for sundries, I go crazy over the eatables.









Chainarong
5/F MBK Mall
Th. Pyathai, Pathumwan
Bangkok, Thailand



www.chainarong.co.th

Hangover Helpers: Shoyu Chashu Ramen

Slurping is mandatory.

The only effective way to avoid getting a hangover is really...not to drink at all. But on the rare occasions of being plastered the night before and waking up with a throbbing head, this would be one of the foods I prefer to help me get by. A big bowl of shoyu chashu ramen (a.k.a. Tokyo ramen). Ukkokei Ramen Ron's fine example of this dish consists of slow simmered pork belly or flank strips with marinated bamboo shoots (called menma) and thick-ish al dente ramen noodles in this most rich, bold and flavorful soy based broth topped with lots of chopped scallions.

Going in for a ramen facial.

The tender streaky (but not too fatty) pork, which has this slightly cured flavor almost resembling that of bacon or ham, provides one with necessary protein and the chewy noodles some much needed carbs. The hot umami packed broth fortifies and replenishes lost body salts from dehydration. (I generally prefer the soy base for its cleaner character versus the miso and tonkotsu.) The sprinkling of togarashi and chili laced sesame oil along with the actions of tucking your face into the steaming bowl helps clear the nasal passages.

Thankfully one need not be wasted to enjoy a great bowl of ramen. I'm thinking one would actually appreciate it more when sober.








Ukkokei Ramen Ron
Upper G/F Tesoro Building
Arnaiz Ave, Makati City

Tel: (632) 856 4588

On The Table: Chinkee Clemente-Koppe

What can I say about this lady. Aside from being an accomplished food writer, blogger and wife to hubby Matt, Chinkee is a very good friend. Despite a slight age difference, we have bonded through our love of good food and wine. C and I have had many dinner dates with Chinkee and Matt and we have thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. That our tastes are quite similar does help a lot, creating a mutual respect for each other's opinion: Most of the time, at least. She also helps run No. 38; a sports bar with live acts, good food and great drinks that is located along Jupiter Street. Let's take a quick peek into Chinkee's world:


Of all the things that you could write about why food?
Oh wow, where do I even begin? Of course, there’s the obvious- I love food. I grew up in a family that enjoys cooking and eating out. I bond with my family and friends over food. Therefore, I like to believe that I know enough about it to chronicle where and what I eat and make insightful observations about my gastronomic experiences.
Also, food is just a really fun topic. I discovered that I can put words together rather well when I was in college and it was always about serious things like world history and politics and international law. So, my initial foray into writing was mostly angst-filled rants about the government and my idealistic schemes on how to change the world. Eventually, I just got tired of being pissed off all the time and decided I wanted to write about things that make me smile. And food always does that for me.


Who are the food writers who inspire you and why?
Reading the columns of the late great Doreen Fernandez and Clinton Palanca was what got me interested in food writing in the first place. They taught me early on to have respect for the written word, to make the extra effort to always produce “publishable work” (Or at least try my hardest to), to have a style and own it. I hope I don’t offend anyone, but nobody on print has really captivated me like those two. For now, I get my fix from food blogs.


Many regional cuisines like Thai, Singaporean and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Pinoy food hasn't achieved the same global acclaim?
In my humble opinion, it’s probably because of two things: 1) bad aesthetics, and 2) bad marketing. I have said this before- to the uninitiated, our scrumptious kare-kare must look like this oily, brownish mess in a bowl. A lot of restaurants now seem to recognize the need to “prettify” our food, hence the deconstructing of stews and a greater focus on presentation, with the hope, of course, of not compromising taste.
Nevertheless, there is still the trouble of getting people to try them. Pinoy food is perceived more as a novelty. How many times have we been asked by US customs if we carry balut in our suitcases? Why is it that the foul-smelling durian gets more press than our equally-delicious but fragrant mangoes? We need to get the focus on the homey and addicting flavors that we grew up with, and away from the food that belong in “Fear Factor”. There are tons of other reasons- such as regionalism, identity crisis brought about by confusing colonial influences, etc.- but I believe it’s primarily those two things.


You have been writing your blog for over three years now, what changes have you observed in the local food scene over the years?
The Filipino palate has evolved so much. There are so many choices out there now, and the consumers have higher expectations from their grocers, deli owners and restauranteurs. Thanks to globalization, people are harder to fool- diners now know what a good rogan josh should taste like, or at what temperature sauvignon blanc should be served. This heightened awareness has made us more discerning that the food industry has also upped its game. It excites me when I eat abroad and I notice that Bouchon’s foie gras terrine tastes just like the one Chef Marc Aubry (of the now-defunct Je Suis Gourmand) makes. Imagine: we have the same level of quality and technique right on our doorstep! Nothing makes me prouder and happier.


What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?
For food blogs- I love Dessert Comes First, just because Lori writes so well and it still feels personal despite the fact that she’s one of the most popular local bloggers out there. For wine-related stuff and fine dining, I like to check out Eye On Wine- Noel’s wine notes cannot be beat, plus he gets to eat the best food out there. Same with Miguel of Food and Wine of the World- his job literally allows him to travel the globe where he gets to eat the most amazing dishes- everywhere from the local market to Michelin-starred restaurants. I also enjoy reading The Amats Project, which has a group of guys (I assume) reviewing the local watering holes and notable alcoholic drinks. They’re quite witty, and, I assume that they write when they are sober because the writing is pretty good.

I love watching Iron Chef, Top Chef, Barefoot Contessa, No Reservations and- my ultimate favorite at the moment- Man vs. Food!


If for example, one day, Anthony Bourdain calls you and asks to spend the day with you. where would you take him for breakfast, a mid-moring snack, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?
If I’m going to spend the day with Anthony Bourdain, who cares what I want?! We’ll do whatever he feels like doing! I’ll just be happy to bask in his awesomeness. At the end of the day, though, I will have to take him to our bar, where I’ll invite some close friends and we’ll just hang out with Tony (by then I suppose I’ll be allowed to call him that) and get him drunk on some really good lambanog we get from Mauban, Quezon. Imagine all the cool stories he will tell!


After hearing stories told to me by your loving and devoted hubby Matt, your love for cooking is very evident. Please tell our readers what is your signature dish?
I love pasta, so I have quite a few pasta recipes up my sleeve. I also do a pretty mean beef goulash, something I learned to make for Matt since he used to eat that a lot back in Germany.


What junk food do you love?
I grew up on Shakey’s thin crust Manager’s Choice pizza, and I am not ashamed to admit that I indulge in Jollibee’s Spaghetti and Chicken Joy Meal when I am hungover. Fishballs were taboo in our home when I was young, so maybe that’s why I eat it with gusto every time I get the chance. And- oh my God- chicharon! But only the ones with the thick fatty layer, otherwise- what’s the point?

Is there a food that you just can't seem to enjoy?
Ampalaya (bitter melon) and okra. Those vegetables just have flavors and textures that do not belong in one’s mouth.


Can you give three tips to aspiring food bloggers?
There is really only one thing to remember, and everything else will follow: respect. This respect will force you to produce well-written entries, with the belief that it is what is expected of you and that is what your readers deserve. Also, this will prevent you from being preachy and presumptuous. Nobody likes a bully and a know-it-all. Never impose your opinions on others, and do not be offended when others do not agree with you. As I have said once before, “one person’s Alain Ducasse can be another person’s Chef Boyardee”. Finally, when reviewing an establishment or a dish, always be conscientious that there is a person behind it. What you say can- no, it will- directly affect that person’s livelihood. Always be constructive with your criticism, never mean-spirited. On the other hand, be generous with praise when it is due. Nothing bad could possibly come out of being positive.


What are the future plans for Chinkee Clemente Koppe and One Big Bite?
Total world domination. An action figure. Maybe a couple of sex tapes. We’ll see.

The Travelling Table: A Good Plate of Pad Thai

Pad Thai is probably the Thai food portal. It's so simple yet so good that it just piques ones interest and sucks you in to find out about other great Thai dishes. At least that's how it was for me. This dish was born on the streets and I find they do taste best when eaten in its natural habitat. One need not spend upwards of Bht40 to get a great plate. Very rarely will you see Thais order this in proper restaurants with a proper meal along with other viands as, however good, it's still considered a one-dish-meal quickly eaten during hurried lunch breaks. It would be like ordering tapsilog over at a lauriat.

But hey, I've probably eaten this for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Preferably at places like this (which also abounds every Bangkok neighborhood).


Here is a one dish shop-house wherein this husband and wife combo have been banging out pad thais for definitely more than at least a decade now. An efficient mise en place surrounds whoever's cooking with tamarind water, rice noodles, chili flakes, bean sprouts, tofu, dried shrimp, eggs, crushed peanuts, chives, sugar and manao. Nothing else. (No, there is no ketchup). And everything gets cooked in one wok, one order at a time. Which can be a bummer if you get to the place with more than a handful of people in line. But what you will always get is something very consistent.

Step 1. Step 2.

They plop in front of you a blue melamine plate of spicy, eggy, al dente noodles with a bit of brininess and pungency you get from the dried fermented shrimp. You then top the plate with even more bean sprouts, garlic chives and a squeeze of manao (lime) to balance fresh and fried flavors.

Step 3.

And then as a final step before eating: tweak with vinegared chilis, chili flakes, patis and sugar. Mix, mix, mix and then be surrounded with the sound of serious eating...silence.






70 Soi Somboon Panya
off Siphraya Rd, Bangrak
Bangkok, Thailand

Best Brekkies: Danggit

For Filipinos, nothing tugs at the heart more than a big breakfast of fried salt-preserved fish called danggit. As I scanned through the metro's breakfast and brunch menus one lazy Saturday morning, I found nothing really convinced me to get out of my boxers and drive out for a morning meal. But I did remember we had been given some danggit (from Cebu's Tabo-an market) that was just in the pantry. It had been sitting there for a month or so and I hadn't touched it as, honestly...it just really stinks up the entire house when you fry it. We don't have a "dirty kitchen" or an outside cooking area as with most Filipino households and so there was no other option but to fry this inside the house. But on that particular Saturday the hunger for a true Pinoy almusal grew to a massive craving that I almost thought I was pregnant.


So I fried some day old rice the way I liked it; a little bit moist but still fluffy and with lots of garlic. Some extra large eggs were made in to sunny side ups with still quivering yolks, blistered whites and browned edges. I sliced some tomatoes and cilantro and added a few twists of black pepper and a squeeze of dayap to make a simple relish. I had brought out a precious bottle of some spiced palm vinegar from Quezon and threw in even more slivers of siling labuyo to make the dipping sauce. And for the danggit, I threw them in by batches in about an inch of hot oil. They do a spirited sputtering at first but they calm down after a few seconds. It's at this point where you want to take them out as you know they've been fried through and through; making all parts of the fish crisply edible (head, fins and all).



I don't know how you like eating this but I like mashing the egg up in the hot rice. And I like a little bit of everything with each spoonful; rice, egg, tomato, salty fish, vinegar, chili. So good. Which made the fact that it would take a couple or so showers to take out the danggit smell from my hair a little bit more bearable.

Best Brekkies: Maty's

I am a sucker for all types of "silog" (fried rice and eggs) meals. For me, the basic Filipino breakfast of having garlic fried rice, a couple of runny fried eggs and a serving of tocino or tapa rates way up there in terms of favorites. So, when I heard about a place along Quirino Avenue in Paranaque that supposedly serves the best tapsilog, I had to go and check it out. One evening, I asked my friends J, 2M and E to accompany me to Maty's. You could have imagined the "what weird place is this guy taking us to this time" look on their faces, when I told them that it was a place near the airport. But they gamely put their faith in me and we made the trip down to Quirino, Paranaque for some good old tapsilog.

Maty's has been around since the 1960's. Some say that they were one of the first to actually serve tapsilog in Manila. I have so much respect for places that count longevity as one of their assets. It is a testament to the owners' perseverance, the consistently good food and a sense of history. Despite its basic, bare bones setting, Maty's has had countless satisfied customers, covering a cross section of Philippine society. Oh what tales we would be privy to if only those humble walls could talk.

Maty's offers many types of "silog" meals but we all decided to stick to the specialty of the house Tapsilog(P56). While waiting for our food to come, our next order of business was making the sawsawan or dipping sauce. Normally, I like my dipping sauce to be simply a saucer of good quality native vinegar and some chopped siling labuyo or bird's eye chillies. Maty's however encourages you to use their recommended dipping sauce that consists of some vinegar, chopped siling labuyo, a pinch of rock salt and a dash of banana ketchup. I was skeptical at first but I decided to give it a try.

Our orders came shortly after. One serving of tapa consisted of a decent sized portion of tender, shredded beef with just the right amount of fat mixed in. It was gamey, sweetish, oily and delicious. Surprisingly, the dipping sauce worked very well. The sweetness of the ketchup was a perfect counter to the tartness of the vinegar. Being the skeptic that I am, I quickly made my own regular dipping sauce to compare. No contest folks, Maty's version was the clear winner. It complimented the tapa marinade very well. While I was doing all this tasting and mixing, my friends in the meantime had quickly inhaled their orders and were already asking the waiter for seconds. Proof positive that they were enjoying themselves and were not disappointed. Hopefully, the next time I ask them to join me to try out another place, their "what weird place is this guy taking us to this time look" would be replaced by simple acquiescence. I asked them how they would rate the tapa meal they just had, the average rating was 8.5/10. Not a bad rating at all. Here's to many more satisfying years Maty's!

Maty's now has three outlets all situated within walking distance from each other along Quirino Avenue. All branches are opened 24hrs seven days a week. To get there, drive south on Roxas Boulevard towards Coastal Road. Make a left on MIA Road and then a right on Quirino Avenue. You will see the first branch of Maty's on your right after about 500 meters or so.

Maty's

0395 Quirino Avenue

Paranaque City,

Manila.

Cash only