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Table Recipes: The Bloody Mary

As part of our series on Hangover Helpers, I have asked a couple of my favorite places for their recipes of their take on the Bloody Mary. Also included, is the recipe from the St. Regis Hotel New York Bar. It is said that the Bloody Mary originated at the St. Regis New York during the 1950's.

We hope that you enjoy these recipes. Chin Chin!

St. Regis New York Recipe:

2 ounces vodka

2 ounces tomato juice

1/4 ounce fresh lemon juice

2 to 4 dashes salt

2 dashes fresh black pepper

2 dashes Cayenne pepper

3 dashes Worcestershire sauce

Shake with ice and strain into a short glass.

No. 38 Bloody Mary:

1 shot of Vodka

8 ounces of tomato juice

3 drops of Tabasco

3 dashes of Worcestershire sauce

1 dash of salt

2 dashes of pepper

1/4 ounce of fresh lime juice

1 celery stalk

Using a 12 ounce highball tumbler with a salted rim, mix vodka and tomato juice. Stir. Add Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and fresh lime juice. Garnish with celery stalk.

LU's Bloody Mamou: (comments by Chef Luis de Terry)

120 ml tomato juice (We use Dimes from Turkey)

15 ml lemon juice

45 ml vodka (Our house pour is Stoli)

8 drops Tabasco

4 dashes Worcestershire sauce. (This is a big success factor... if you put too little, it turns out bland)

salt and pepper to taste.

Table for Three, Please would like to express our gratitude to Chef Luis de Terry and San San Clemente for sharing their recipes.

Hangover Helpers: The Bloody Mary

LU's The Bloody Mamou

Cottonmouth, Pounding head, general fatigue and the words "I will never ever f_____g drink again" coursing repeatedly through what little is left of your rational self. Does this sound familiar? Yes you got it, the dreaded hangover. I have gone through it a few times and it is never pretty.

There have been many remedies that have been touted as the best but none has been more popular than the Bloody Mary. Vodka, Tomato juice, Tabasco sauce, a dash of Worcestershire sauce salt and pepper has been the common ingredients of this famous cocktail cum remedy. Its origins have not been too clear-cut. Wikipedia says that the modern version was served in The St. Regis Hotel in New York during the first half of the 20th century. Some say that it was named after Hollywood actress Mary Pickford, a cocktail waitress named Mary or, even Mary Queen of Scots. In the end though, I have to express my gratitude to whoever it is that came up with the Bloody Mary, as it has become one of my all time favorites. I am normally not into cocktails, but I will gladly make an exception for an excellently made Bloody Mary.

I had to ask though does it really work for a hangover? My research has pointed me to the tomato juice as the critical ingredient. It contains fructose and other enzymes that help alleviate some of the symptoms. This leads me to believe that one can probably forego the vodka. But then again, where's the fun in that?

Although favored as a hangover helper, Bloody Marys make excellent pre or post dinner drinks as well. When C and I go for our usual appetizer nights (will talk about this in a future post), I like having a Bloody Mary or two or three with my meal. I have a couple of favorites that I will share with you:

LU has the Bloody Mamou ( P275). The menu says that it was based on the Bloody Mary that is served at Mamou. I have tried both versions on several occasions and in my opinion, this is one of the few times when the student has bested the master. Lu's version is for me the ultimate classic. Its flavors are all on point and well balanced. Chef Luis de Terry has graciously shared his recipe for all of us to try at home. However, I strongly suggest that you head over there and personally give it a try.

Coming a close second is the Bloody Mary (P160) that is served in sports bar No. 38. Their version is spicier, sexier and very in your face. I know it is quite unusual for a sports bar to serve a decent Bloody Mary, but there you go, an unexpected pleasant surprise is always welcome. Bar Manager San San Clemente has also shared No. 38's recipe with us.

I have posted both LU's and No. 38's recipes and the supposed original recipe from the St. Regis New York in a separate post. Please click on this link to view.

LU

G/F Joya South Tower

Rockwell, Makati

Tel. (+632) 403.3991

N0. 38 Sports Lounge and Grill

114-A Jupiter Street

Bel-Air, Makati

Tel. (+632) 519.1806

The Travelling Table: Chainarong

Tired of bringing home the same tubes of spicy sampaloc from Bangkok for pasalubong? I suggest you try shopping at Chainarong, Bangkok's top purveyor of Thai style snack foods. It's one of my must-go shopping places when I'm in town and I must admit I tend to go a bit overboard on the snack food shopping. Biggest reason being the probably hundreds of varieties of edibles available. And if you're interested in something that seems too funky or foreign they always accommodate free sampling.

spicy anchovies, nuts and peas with tom yum herbs

What they're most popular for is their pork products as shredded pork, pork floss, bakkwa and Chinese style sausages. But my favorite would probably be the moo ping or crispy pork. They crisp up the super thin sheets of marinated pork right in the premises with these motorized convection ovens to assure they're always fresh. What do they taste like? Sweet, spicy and salty with a porky essence that's so unbelievably crunchy. Like lechon skin. Really. However way better for you in terms of the health department.

lechon skin-like moo ping


a sugar glazed version of the tom yum anchovies sans peas

They also carry sweet and savory chips of various fruits and vegetables; durian, taro, pumpkin, bananas, jackfruit, coconut, pineapple...the list goes on. And something that I never get tired of eating: tom yum anchovies. Crispy fried anchovies with nuts, peas and sesame seeds mixed in with tom yum herbs. I suppose it's their version of mixed nuts like our, er... Ding Dong? Very aromatic with all that kaffir lime and so addictive that I just have to bring several bags home every time.

The loot: all the food had to be put in a separate suitcase.

They've outlets in over 20 department stores all over the city but I usually go to the MBK branch; so while the wife goes crazy shopping for sundries, I go crazy over the eatables.









Chainarong
5/F MBK Mall
Th. Pyathai, Pathumwan
Bangkok, Thailand



www.chainarong.co.th

Hangover Helpers: Shoyu Chashu Ramen

Slurping is mandatory.

The only effective way to avoid getting a hangover is really...not to drink at all. But on the rare occasions of being plastered the night before and waking up with a throbbing head, this would be one of the foods I prefer to help me get by. A big bowl of shoyu chashu ramen (a.k.a. Tokyo ramen). Ukkokei Ramen Ron's fine example of this dish consists of slow simmered pork belly or flank strips with marinated bamboo shoots (called menma) and thick-ish al dente ramen noodles in this most rich, bold and flavorful soy based broth topped with lots of chopped scallions.

Going in for a ramen facial.

The tender streaky (but not too fatty) pork, which has this slightly cured flavor almost resembling that of bacon or ham, provides one with necessary protein and the chewy noodles some much needed carbs. The hot umami packed broth fortifies and replenishes lost body salts from dehydration. (I generally prefer the soy base for its cleaner character versus the miso and tonkotsu.) The sprinkling of togarashi and chili laced sesame oil along with the actions of tucking your face into the steaming bowl helps clear the nasal passages.

Thankfully one need not be wasted to enjoy a great bowl of ramen. I'm thinking one would actually appreciate it more when sober.








Ukkokei Ramen Ron
Upper G/F Tesoro Building
Arnaiz Ave, Makati City

Tel: (632) 856 4588

On The Table: Chinkee Clemente-Koppe

What can I say about this lady. Aside from being an accomplished food writer, blogger and wife to hubby Matt, Chinkee is a very good friend. Despite a slight age difference, we have bonded through our love of good food and wine. C and I have had many dinner dates with Chinkee and Matt and we have thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it. That our tastes are quite similar does help a lot, creating a mutual respect for each other's opinion: Most of the time, at least. She also helps run No. 38; a sports bar with live acts, good food and great drinks that is located along Jupiter Street. Let's take a quick peek into Chinkee's world:


Of all the things that you could write about why food?
Oh wow, where do I even begin? Of course, there’s the obvious- I love food. I grew up in a family that enjoys cooking and eating out. I bond with my family and friends over food. Therefore, I like to believe that I know enough about it to chronicle where and what I eat and make insightful observations about my gastronomic experiences.
Also, food is just a really fun topic. I discovered that I can put words together rather well when I was in college and it was always about serious things like world history and politics and international law. So, my initial foray into writing was mostly angst-filled rants about the government and my idealistic schemes on how to change the world. Eventually, I just got tired of being pissed off all the time and decided I wanted to write about things that make me smile. And food always does that for me.


Who are the food writers who inspire you and why?
Reading the columns of the late great Doreen Fernandez and Clinton Palanca was what got me interested in food writing in the first place. They taught me early on to have respect for the written word, to make the extra effort to always produce “publishable work” (Or at least try my hardest to), to have a style and own it. I hope I don’t offend anyone, but nobody on print has really captivated me like those two. For now, I get my fix from food blogs.


Many regional cuisines like Thai, Singaporean and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Pinoy food hasn't achieved the same global acclaim?
In my humble opinion, it’s probably because of two things: 1) bad aesthetics, and 2) bad marketing. I have said this before- to the uninitiated, our scrumptious kare-kare must look like this oily, brownish mess in a bowl. A lot of restaurants now seem to recognize the need to “prettify” our food, hence the deconstructing of stews and a greater focus on presentation, with the hope, of course, of not compromising taste.
Nevertheless, there is still the trouble of getting people to try them. Pinoy food is perceived more as a novelty. How many times have we been asked by US customs if we carry balut in our suitcases? Why is it that the foul-smelling durian gets more press than our equally-delicious but fragrant mangoes? We need to get the focus on the homey and addicting flavors that we grew up with, and away from the food that belong in “Fear Factor”. There are tons of other reasons- such as regionalism, identity crisis brought about by confusing colonial influences, etc.- but I believe it’s primarily those two things.


You have been writing your blog for over three years now, what changes have you observed in the local food scene over the years?
The Filipino palate has evolved so much. There are so many choices out there now, and the consumers have higher expectations from their grocers, deli owners and restauranteurs. Thanks to globalization, people are harder to fool- diners now know what a good rogan josh should taste like, or at what temperature sauvignon blanc should be served. This heightened awareness has made us more discerning that the food industry has also upped its game. It excites me when I eat abroad and I notice that Bouchon’s foie gras terrine tastes just like the one Chef Marc Aubry (of the now-defunct Je Suis Gourmand) makes. Imagine: we have the same level of quality and technique right on our doorstep! Nothing makes me prouder and happier.


What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?
For food blogs- I love Dessert Comes First, just because Lori writes so well and it still feels personal despite the fact that she’s one of the most popular local bloggers out there. For wine-related stuff and fine dining, I like to check out Eye On Wine- Noel’s wine notes cannot be beat, plus he gets to eat the best food out there. Same with Miguel of Food and Wine of the World- his job literally allows him to travel the globe where he gets to eat the most amazing dishes- everywhere from the local market to Michelin-starred restaurants. I also enjoy reading The Amats Project, which has a group of guys (I assume) reviewing the local watering holes and notable alcoholic drinks. They’re quite witty, and, I assume that they write when they are sober because the writing is pretty good.

I love watching Iron Chef, Top Chef, Barefoot Contessa, No Reservations and- my ultimate favorite at the moment- Man vs. Food!


If for example, one day, Anthony Bourdain calls you and asks to spend the day with you. where would you take him for breakfast, a mid-moring snack, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?
If I’m going to spend the day with Anthony Bourdain, who cares what I want?! We’ll do whatever he feels like doing! I’ll just be happy to bask in his awesomeness. At the end of the day, though, I will have to take him to our bar, where I’ll invite some close friends and we’ll just hang out with Tony (by then I suppose I’ll be allowed to call him that) and get him drunk on some really good lambanog we get from Mauban, Quezon. Imagine all the cool stories he will tell!


After hearing stories told to me by your loving and devoted hubby Matt, your love for cooking is very evident. Please tell our readers what is your signature dish?
I love pasta, so I have quite a few pasta recipes up my sleeve. I also do a pretty mean beef goulash, something I learned to make for Matt since he used to eat that a lot back in Germany.


What junk food do you love?
I grew up on Shakey’s thin crust Manager’s Choice pizza, and I am not ashamed to admit that I indulge in Jollibee’s Spaghetti and Chicken Joy Meal when I am hungover. Fishballs were taboo in our home when I was young, so maybe that’s why I eat it with gusto every time I get the chance. And- oh my God- chicharon! But only the ones with the thick fatty layer, otherwise- what’s the point?

Is there a food that you just can't seem to enjoy?
Ampalaya (bitter melon) and okra. Those vegetables just have flavors and textures that do not belong in one’s mouth.


Can you give three tips to aspiring food bloggers?
There is really only one thing to remember, and everything else will follow: respect. This respect will force you to produce well-written entries, with the belief that it is what is expected of you and that is what your readers deserve. Also, this will prevent you from being preachy and presumptuous. Nobody likes a bully and a know-it-all. Never impose your opinions on others, and do not be offended when others do not agree with you. As I have said once before, “one person’s Alain Ducasse can be another person’s Chef Boyardee”. Finally, when reviewing an establishment or a dish, always be conscientious that there is a person behind it. What you say can- no, it will- directly affect that person’s livelihood. Always be constructive with your criticism, never mean-spirited. On the other hand, be generous with praise when it is due. Nothing bad could possibly come out of being positive.


What are the future plans for Chinkee Clemente Koppe and One Big Bite?
Total world domination. An action figure. Maybe a couple of sex tapes. We’ll see.

The Travelling Table: A Good Plate of Pad Thai

Pad Thai is probably the Thai food portal. It's so simple yet so good that it just piques ones interest and sucks you in to find out about other great Thai dishes. At least that's how it was for me. This dish was born on the streets and I find they do taste best when eaten in its natural habitat. One need not spend upwards of Bht40 to get a great plate. Very rarely will you see Thais order this in proper restaurants with a proper meal along with other viands as, however good, it's still considered a one-dish-meal quickly eaten during hurried lunch breaks. It would be like ordering tapsilog over at a lauriat.

But hey, I've probably eaten this for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Preferably at places like this (which also abounds every Bangkok neighborhood).


Here is a one dish shop-house wherein this husband and wife combo have been banging out pad thais for definitely more than at least a decade now. An efficient mise en place surrounds whoever's cooking with tamarind water, rice noodles, chili flakes, bean sprouts, tofu, dried shrimp, eggs, crushed peanuts, chives, sugar and manao. Nothing else. (No, there is no ketchup). And everything gets cooked in one wok, one order at a time. Which can be a bummer if you get to the place with more than a handful of people in line. But what you will always get is something very consistent.

Step 1. Step 2.

They plop in front of you a blue melamine plate of spicy, eggy, al dente noodles with a bit of brininess and pungency you get from the dried fermented shrimp. You then top the plate with even more bean sprouts, garlic chives and a squeeze of manao (lime) to balance fresh and fried flavors.

Step 3.

And then as a final step before eating: tweak with vinegared chilis, chili flakes, patis and sugar. Mix, mix, mix and then be surrounded with the sound of serious eating...silence.






70 Soi Somboon Panya
off Siphraya Rd, Bangrak
Bangkok, Thailand

Best Brekkies: Danggit

For Filipinos, nothing tugs at the heart more than a big breakfast of fried salt-preserved fish called danggit. As I scanned through the metro's breakfast and brunch menus one lazy Saturday morning, I found nothing really convinced me to get out of my boxers and drive out for a morning meal. But I did remember we had been given some danggit (from Cebu's Tabo-an market) that was just in the pantry. It had been sitting there for a month or so and I hadn't touched it as, honestly...it just really stinks up the entire house when you fry it. We don't have a "dirty kitchen" or an outside cooking area as with most Filipino households and so there was no other option but to fry this inside the house. But on that particular Saturday the hunger for a true Pinoy almusal grew to a massive craving that I almost thought I was pregnant.


So I fried some day old rice the way I liked it; a little bit moist but still fluffy and with lots of garlic. Some extra large eggs were made in to sunny side ups with still quivering yolks, blistered whites and browned edges. I sliced some tomatoes and cilantro and added a few twists of black pepper and a squeeze of dayap to make a simple relish. I had brought out a precious bottle of some spiced palm vinegar from Quezon and threw in even more slivers of siling labuyo to make the dipping sauce. And for the danggit, I threw them in by batches in about an inch of hot oil. They do a spirited sputtering at first but they calm down after a few seconds. It's at this point where you want to take them out as you know they've been fried through and through; making all parts of the fish crisply edible (head, fins and all).



I don't know how you like eating this but I like mashing the egg up in the hot rice. And I like a little bit of everything with each spoonful; rice, egg, tomato, salty fish, vinegar, chili. So good. Which made the fact that it would take a couple or so showers to take out the danggit smell from my hair a little bit more bearable.

Best Brekkies: Maty's

I am a sucker for all types of "silog" (fried rice and eggs) meals. For me, the basic Filipino breakfast of having garlic fried rice, a couple of runny fried eggs and a serving of tocino or tapa rates way up there in terms of favorites. So, when I heard about a place along Quirino Avenue in Paranaque that supposedly serves the best tapsilog, I had to go and check it out. One evening, I asked my friends J, 2M and E to accompany me to Maty's. You could have imagined the "what weird place is this guy taking us to this time" look on their faces, when I told them that it was a place near the airport. But they gamely put their faith in me and we made the trip down to Quirino, Paranaque for some good old tapsilog.

Maty's has been around since the 1960's. Some say that they were one of the first to actually serve tapsilog in Manila. I have so much respect for places that count longevity as one of their assets. It is a testament to the owners' perseverance, the consistently good food and a sense of history. Despite its basic, bare bones setting, Maty's has had countless satisfied customers, covering a cross section of Philippine society. Oh what tales we would be privy to if only those humble walls could talk.

Maty's offers many types of "silog" meals but we all decided to stick to the specialty of the house Tapsilog(P56). While waiting for our food to come, our next order of business was making the sawsawan or dipping sauce. Normally, I like my dipping sauce to be simply a saucer of good quality native vinegar and some chopped siling labuyo or bird's eye chillies. Maty's however encourages you to use their recommended dipping sauce that consists of some vinegar, chopped siling labuyo, a pinch of rock salt and a dash of banana ketchup. I was skeptical at first but I decided to give it a try.

Our orders came shortly after. One serving of tapa consisted of a decent sized portion of tender, shredded beef with just the right amount of fat mixed in. It was gamey, sweetish, oily and delicious. Surprisingly, the dipping sauce worked very well. The sweetness of the ketchup was a perfect counter to the tartness of the vinegar. Being the skeptic that I am, I quickly made my own regular dipping sauce to compare. No contest folks, Maty's version was the clear winner. It complimented the tapa marinade very well. While I was doing all this tasting and mixing, my friends in the meantime had quickly inhaled their orders and were already asking the waiter for seconds. Proof positive that they were enjoying themselves and were not disappointed. Hopefully, the next time I ask them to join me to try out another place, their "what weird place is this guy taking us to this time look" would be replaced by simple acquiescence. I asked them how they would rate the tapa meal they just had, the average rating was 8.5/10. Not a bad rating at all. Here's to many more satisfying years Maty's!

Maty's now has three outlets all situated within walking distance from each other along Quirino Avenue. All branches are opened 24hrs seven days a week. To get there, drive south on Roxas Boulevard towards Coastal Road. Make a left on MIA Road and then a right on Quirino Avenue. You will see the first branch of Maty's on your right after about 500 meters or so.

Maty's

0395 Quirino Avenue

Paranaque City,

Manila.

Cash only

Best Brekkies: Chesa Bianca

It is believed that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Having said that, what goes onto one's plate should be given a lot of importance as well. The brunch concept is spreading around many establishments around the metro and people are warming up to the idea. Brunch is a very social activity fueled by a heavy meal and often accompanied by some heavy drinking as well. Although Chesa Bianca is an old favorite, they're not the popular choice for Saturday brunch but their opening time of 11am makes them a perfect venue to dine in for this occasion.

Boom. Pan grilled tomato and all.

The Rösti Oberland (P475) is what brought me to this place. A potato pancake, a slice of ham covered with baked Raclette cheese and topped with a fried egg and a slice of grilled tomato. This typical Swiss dish is comprised of all the essential ingredients of typical brunch fare: carbohydrate, protein and dairy. What more could you ask for? It was beautifully prepared on a warm plate to keep the Raclette gooey throughout your meal. I was so engrossed by the delicious combination; I forgot to order a glass of sparkling wine!

For people out there looking for Eggs Benedict, this is something new to try. Hopefully, you get to enjoy it as much as I did.



Chesa Bianca
7431 Yakal Street, San Antonio Village
Makati City, Metro Manila, 1203 Philippines
T: [63] 2 815 1359


Open daily from 11:00 am to 11:00 pm, except Sundays and selected holidays, for breakfast, lunch, afternoon snacks and dinner.

Chiang Mai: Khun Mor's Cuisine

One of the restaurants I liked most in Chiang Mai is this local favorite called Khun Mor's. It's tucked away in a quiet location also within the Nimmanhemin neighborhood. Laid back open air dining with exceptional simple, still inexpensive food despite its growing popularity with the foreigners.

hey, nice head

They serve a pretty good Thai-style iced tea (cha yen); whizzed in the blender to produce a thick froth. If you wanted to do this at home, you could easily replicate by just combining brewed tea with condensed milk and Blue Boy syrup. Found in Thai groceries everywhere, the red sugary concentrate sells for less than Bht40 a liter. But you know...when in Rome... just order the darned iced tea.

crispy deep fried eggs

We sampled a specialty of house; which was a fried egg omelet topped with shrimp over steamed rice. Slightly beaten eggs are literally deep fried in a wok to get this golden brown color and crisp texture. The shrimp were soft and cooked perfectly; just stir fried with some veg for a minute or two. Amazing how a no-frills dish executed properly produces great results.

sausage stuffed with aromatics with even more aromatics

The sai ua sausage with mixed herbs was also pretty good. But more for tapas I suppose than a viand. The hard, inedible shredded lemongrass and kaffir leaves sort of got in the way of chewing. But no doubt it tasted awesome. All those aromatics with lime rinds, raw onions and galangal made made for some explosive flavors.

still haunts me

They also serve a pretty awesome khao soi. I know, I know I'm still harking about this curry noodle dish; but with a bowl this big and exceptional flavor at the same price you get in the markets (Bht45) I highly recommend you try out Khun Mor's version.

There was a lot more on the menu we had hoped to try out but as least we got to understand why Khun Mor's is so popular. Great place, great food, great quality.






Khun Mor's Cuisine
Nimmanhemin soi 17
Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai: iBerry Garden

iBerry started out as a small shop along Sukhumvit 24 (in Bangkok) more than 10 years ago by a couple of siblings who wanted to churn out the best home made ice creams. At present the store count is at 15. Pretty manageable organic growth to keep Thai loyalists coming back for some really great tasting sweets. As Thais love design as well, they've sort of given all the stores/cafes that signature youthful and bright, airy feel. An effort that has associated iBerry with not only fabulous desserts but also being chic dessert destinations.


Probably the most happily designed of all their cafes is located in one of the sois off Nimmanhemin Rd called the iBerry Garden. It's only been open two or three years but has gained status of being a must-see destination for hip travelers to Chiang Mai. We sort of got lost walking around looking for the place as we weren't sure if it was really around the noticeably upscale residential area. But as we walked further in the soi, this huge yellow sculpture emerged amidst the huge branches of this banyan tree. We knew we had arrived.


The place is literally a garden. You place your order inside this simple square concrete and corrugated steel roofed shack and, while there is limited seating inside, you just cannot help but be drawn to the eccentric grounds. You get a vast wooden deck with these low, retro lounge furniture sets amidst trees decorated with multi-colored lights. A golden frame hangs from nowhere which make people just go mad with their cameras taking portraits of themselves. Everywhere you look, paintings, sculptures and interactive installation art can be seen; courtesy of business partner/famous Thai comedian called "Nose", who just happens to be a visual artist as well.


And the food is just as appealing. You can always expect unexpected ice cream flavors in this establishment. We had placed orders for scoops of the feelsgood (lychee, mint sorbet), pumpkin almond, red bean and green tea and chocolate chip. Placing and extra order of the strawberry-banana trifle for good measure. The lychee sorbet was nice and refreshing, the pumpkin and almond was a bit of an acquired taste, the red bean/green tea and chocolate chip were spot on with that signature creamy texture. The trifle I was most happy with as it literally had chunks of fresh fruit within the layers of sponge cake and thick milk custard.


I mentioned this place being the "'happiest" designed iBerry for reasons that we just couldn't stop smiling while we had our ice creams. Was it because of all the trees? The nice cool weather? Or the colorful surroundings? Was there crack in the desserts? Or maybe all that ingested sugar? I have just never been to a place like it.





iBerry Garden
Nimmanhemin Soi 17,
Chiang Mai, Thailand

Open daily 10:30am-10pm.

Tel. (053)-895-181.

www.iberryhomemade.com

Chiang Mai: Street and Market Finds

One of the things I look forward to most when visiting a new place is checking out the markets and the street food. You really do get to know more about the culture and the people when you visit its belly.

At the food section of the Anusarn night market you get a lot of dried fruit preserves, nuts, durian pastes and local snacks; including that of fried silkworms. On the right are packs and packs of kep muu (fried pork rinds or chicharon).

At a shake shack; still at Anusarn. Fruits prepped and ready to be blended into slushies. I had a big cup of passion fruit shake. So good. Strawberries are also cheap and abundant in Chiang Mai.

My new favorite Thai food. Chiang Mai's famous khao soi; in essence egg noodles in a creamy curry gravy with pickled vegetables, raw onions and crispy fried noodles on top. Usually served with pork, beef or chicken. Fine tuning with lime juice, sugar and chilies does magic. I've had several bowls from all over during my stay and while they did have slight variations on the general recipe, I have to say I found them all good. Reading countless articles on the web prior about this fusion food of Burmese/Islamic origins I now understand what all the fuss is about. The problem is when and where to have this on a regular basis. *sigh*

Street beans. Broad beans or "pop beans" as we call them. A smoldering batch of chestnuts. And some interesting looking peanuts with edgier looking shells.

The northern Thais sure like their fermented pork called naem; which is made by letting marinated raw minced pork sit out for a couple of days to get that distinctive flavor (of turned meat) which is then grilled or fried. Pictured above are the sausage variants called naem maw. Spicy, a little bit tart, lots of garlic and oftentimes mixed in with some starches. Shredded vermicelli is mixed in with the stuffing on the left. Sticky rice is mixed in with the one on the right. They actually make for some pretty tasty fast food.

Gluai kaek, or fried bananas are a favorite all over the country. Their version consists of dipping sliced fruit in a light rice flour/coconut water/sesame seed batter to form a sweetish, nutty crust after frying. People snack on this all day and can also be a dessert.

If you want to purchase local food (be it raw, cooked, preserved, etc...) they have it all here at Warorot Market. It's a massive food bazaar with a few other markets surrounding it dealing with more food and produce. There's also an adjoining food court, but who needs to sit down and eat there when you can sample all the food going around. Textiles and clothes are sold on the upper floors.

Left: Pre-packaged mieng kam; usually served as a DIY hor's horderve at chichi Thai restaurants, I find out they're eaten as an everyday snack in the north and did in fact originate across the border. To make a serving you place some dried shrimp, manao rinds, slivers of onions, garlic and galangal and toasted coconut on a betel leaf and drizzle with some sweet/savory/spicy shrimp paste based sauce. You then wrap everything up in a small parcel and pop in the mouth. It's a punctuation of flavors to say the least. Top right; coconut "ice-cream". More like sherbet though. Not unlike our buko pandan...without the pandan. Nice and icy though a little bit too sweet for my taste. Bottom right: what I assume to be some nam prik pao. The all purpose Thai chili oil. That red film floating on your tom yum? That's what it is. Deep, smoky and provides a glowing burn rather than a sharp bite.

Left: amidst super fresh produce. Right: selling dried beef, candied tamarind and grilled plantains.

The Anusarn Market opens in the evenings and is more touristy that the Divisoria-like Warorot "day market". But there are definitely a lot of food finds in both venues and worth a look-see.

The Travelling Table: Davao Delights

I spent the last week of 2010 with family in Davao. Amidst the gatherings at home and a trip to the beach, I was able to go to a few restaurants that were unique and totally homegrown.

Toryano's Chicken Haus

This place was recommended to me by Chef Gene Gonzalez. I had dinner here one Monday evening and I was surprised to see a large crowd gathered. Toryano's touts itself to be the number one chicken house in Davao. What shines here is their version of native chicken barbecue(P80). Tasty, gamey with a slight sweet glaze that enhances but does not overpower. This is a winner in my book. Those with big appetites should note that native chicken pieces are smaller than regular chicken. So, an order of chicken barbecue may not be enough. Loading up on a couple of orders and availing of Toryano's unlimited Rice offer(P20) may do the trick.

I was pretty hungry so aside from two orders of native chicken barbecue I had a stick of chicken liver barbecue(P20) and a stick of barbecued chicken ass(P20). Aside from the chicken ass, which was a bit tough, everything else was very good. If you are looking for a no frills, good value for money place, Toryano's is it.

Kasagingan Kapihan

I had dessert here one evening and was quite taken by this charming cafe. The menu as the name implies, revolves around Davao's number one fruit: The banana. I chose a few banana themed desserts to try and I was most happy with the Maruya Supreme(P75). It is a deconstructed turon drizzled with chocolate, strawberry and caramel sauces. The bananas were just how I liked them, not too firm and they had the right amount of ripeness. The natural sweetness of the bananas still shone through amidst all the sauces, making this dessert a definite must try.

The other two desserts that I sampled were a Banana Cobbler(P95) and the Saw-Saw Banana(P110). The crumble was a bit of a disappointment as it was very dry. The Saw-Saw Banana on the other hand, was very good. It consisted of thinly wrapped sliced bananas fried to perfection accompanied by chocolate and creamy custard dipping sauces. Personally, I just like eating the bananas as is without any of the sauces but that's just me.

Majid's Kabab

Owned by a former Hollywood stuntman of Iranian descent, this 25 seater restaurant serves great, reasonably priced Middle Eastern food in a simple setting. Most dishes are less than P50 and come with either Pita Bread or rice and a whole grilled tomato. Among my favorites are the Beef Tenderloin Kabab(P43), Goat/Mutton Kabab(P45), Beef Liver Kabab(P30) and Pan-fried Ox Brain(P35). All dishes are grilled or cooked to order and everything was delicious. The servings are adequate at best, but a budget of P200 per person including a drink is more than enough for most to walk out completely satisfied.

As a bonus, spend a few minutes with the amiable Mr. Majid as he regales you with stories of his interesting past. Look through the different pictures of Hollywood personalities posted on the restaurant wall and ask him for some juicy insider tidbits. Who knows, if he likes you enough, he may just oblige.

Toryano's Chicken Haus

Legaspi Street, Davao City

Tel: +6382 3022439

Kasagingan Kapihan

F. Torres Street, Davao City

Tel: +6382 3212909

Majid's Kabab

Rizal Street, Davao City

Tel: +6382 2862090

Chiang Mai: Mont Blanc Sweet Cafe

Looking for coffee and Wi-Fi one morning, we saw a sign that read "Mont Blanc Sweet Cafe" pointing towards an alley off Nimmanhemin Road. Mont Blanc is a Chiang Mai born and bred patisserie with only three branches. One in the local airport, one along the main Nimmanhemin Road (which looks a bit tired from all the customer traffic) and this little gem off into the Soi. A very cool place and much more private. I'm assuming their commissary may be in the premises as well given the place's size. The area's more residential than commercial really.

There's a main house and an annex; which both look clean and contemporary from the outside. Inside, I love how they've designed the interiors using retro-modern pieces and reproductions. Psychedelic wallpapers and paintings on the walls, classic tube TV's in a corner, Dutch bikes and Vespas parked along the hall and rotary dial phones on shelves keep your other senses entertained while waiting for your order.

Left: raspberry, pistachio and strawberry cakes, an assortment of chocolates and macarons; Right: strawberry montblancs

The products definitely reflect the packaging as well. You get these perfectly crafted Japanese/Viennese/French inspired cakes and pastries that all look so good it may take a while to order.


I sampled the Kurogama Mousse; consisting of a bottom layer made with crushed black sesame seeds, a middle layer of milk custard and a top layer of caramel drizzled whipped cream. It was smooth, light and very clean tasting. Yum.

Incredible sheen on all the cakes as on this chocolate covered batch.

They're also popular for their signature Montblanc chestnut cake and ice creams. And oh yeah, they serve some pretty good coffee as well.







Mont Blanc Sweet Cafe
Nimmanhemin Soi 2,
Chiang Mai, Thailand

Tel (053) 210 776

Open daily 8:30am-10pm.

www.montblanc-cm.com

Chiang Mai: Kaeng Ron Ban Suan

Great to have been in a place I've never been to before over the holidays, i.e. Chiang Mai. Laid back, great weather and excellent food. For our first lunch in Thailand's second largest city, I asked our guide to point us to a place where we could get a sampling of the local food. Referred to as Lanna cuisine, northern Thai dishes are influenced by the cultures surrounding the northern border of the country such as Burma's. Heavy trade with Indians and Chinese have also produced some interesting dishes that have become synonymous with Chiang Mai. Dishes are generally spiced but not as hot as compared to Issan or north-eastern Thai.

In the outskirts of the city, across the canal, over some rough road and into a small dirt alley lies a pretty impressive, open air establishment that not a lot of tourist vans, like ours, get to. Kaeng Ron Ban Suan actually turns into a drinking joint for the locals at night but they also serve some awesome food as well. We had some requisite fare as tom yum and the papaya salads; good, not the best I've had but definitely still better than what we get in Manila. However some pretty outstanding dishes included this perfectly balanced tamarind based curry called gaeng haeng lay. Sweet, salty and spicy with pork so tender; you'll definitely need some rice to sop up the gravy. This was a house specialty, no doubt.


An appetizer plate of boiled vegetables and eggs along with various meats as sai ua (herbed pork sausages), kep muu (chicharon), naem (fermented pork) and fish cakes are served along with nam prik num (finger chili paste) and nam prik ong (tomato based chili paste). The combination of flavors and textures were interesting; the sauces were not as spicy as they looked. And who could go wrong with a variety of pork products? But I have to say, my preferred chicharon condiment would still be cane vinegar; Pinoy style.


Grilled pork neck (kor moo yang) is more Issan than Lanna though, but since this cut is just so succulent its become part of many restaurants' menus in Chiang Mai. Grilled over hot coals this is served with a sweet chili sauce and lots of fresh coriander. Perfect with some som tam and sticky rice.


I'm sure you've had some yum pla duk foo (catfish salad) before, but this place serves it with a slight twist. The fish meat is fried to a crisp in larger, chunkier pieces as opposed to being finely shredded. The fish skin is also mixed in. So when you get these small crisp things mixed in with the larger sheets of crisp things mixed in with all these aromatics and manao (lime) you get a super salad. The best catfish salad I've had thus far.


Probably the star dish for me was the yum tua plu (wingbean salad). Its coconut cream dressing was thin as compared to the normally thick (which tends to get sickly). And mixed in with the young and tender wing beans were some roasted skin-on peanuts, fried squid chips (daing na pusit) and cashews. Thai salads are typically very spicy but this, for some reason, was more so. Like a foolish lab rat I still managed a spoonful in between groans from the chili and wiping my sweat drenched scalp. I still wish I were having this right now for lunch.


And so the need for dessert. Of which even the restaurant's tabtim krob was superb. Cold and milky with a rose water aroma; the red "rubies" were so pleasantly toothy with crunchy water chestnut centers. The effect of the chilies were miraculously nullified after finishing my bowl.


The verdict? You've headed out to as far as Chiang Mai already so heading out another twenty minutes from the city to Kaeng Ron Ban Suan shouldn't be a problem when you want to get a pretty great mix of central and northern Thai food. Another good thing is the price. For a hungry group of twelve the entire bill, including drinks and dessert, came out to about Bht1800 (Php2600). Pretty great value, no?





Kaeng Ron Ban Suan
149/3 Moo 2, Soi Chomdoi
Klangcholprathan Rd.
Chiang Mai, Thailand

Tel. +66 (053) 213.762; +66 (053) 221.378