Table Suggestions: Chef Dogan Turkish Grill and Restaurant

Pirzola or grilled lamb chops and tebulah

Chef Dogan Turkish Grill and Restaurant is a tiny gem nestled in between the cramped commercial establishments along Katipunan Avenue Extension. I've always noticed the red sign when passing along the stretch and always made mental notes to drop by. I finally made the time and have been back a few times now, with all visits as satisfying as the last.

Iskender kebab and mutabel

Chef Dogan's cuisine is pretty straightforward. Favoring only the freshest of meats and other ingredients to come up with hearty grilled items and chilled salads. Bread is baked on-site. The fantastic yogurt is home-made; and used in many ways as in marinades, side dishes and the kebab garlic sauce. I think Chef Dogan's is one of the few places in Manila that actually has both mutabel and babaganuc (baba ganoush) on the menu. With both dishes having the same open fire-charred eggplant as the main ingredient, the mutabel is the white mash made with yogurt, tahini and garlic; babaganuc is the one made with tomatoes, parsley and bulgur. Whereas the former has the more creamy texture, you'll notice how both dishes were meticulously prepared by hand and not whizzed through a food processor as you could still differentiate each and every ingredient in the mixes. The tebulah (tabuleh) they serve is one of the freshest I've seen in the metro, always using fluffy bright green parsley, tomatoes and cracked bulgur and tossed in lemon juice.

Babaganuc and Turkish tea with fresh mint sprig.

As compared to the heavier spiced Persian style kebabs we're used to, Chef Dogan's grilled meats taste like, well, meat. Good meat. And grilled to perfection. The ground meat kebabs have an ideal ratio of fat mixed in and produces a most succulent nosh. The lamb chops have a nice, salty/crusty char on the outsides but remain so tender. Grilled items are served with buttered rice, a simple onion and sumac salad and tomato sauce slathered pide bread. Doner kebabs are also available; those layered meats on a rotating vertical spit and then sliced and wrapped in bread. And with variants as the iskender kebab, with the sliced meats placed over thick yogurt and then slathered with a tomato sauce and a drizzle of olive oil.

Cacik

I like having some cacik as a side dish to the grilled meats; or that thick yogurt with mint and cucumber. It just provides a refreshingly tart counterbalance to the fatty meats. A spoonful every few bites does wonders. And it aids digestion too.

Cheese sticks

Funny enough, there were some not-so-Turkish things on the menu as the "Russian salad" and french fries. We ordered the cheese sticks just to see what kind of twist he did with those. And what we got were some perfectly golden brown rolls whose wrappers, I suspect, were made using thinly stretched dough. Tightly wrapped inside was some meltingly warm chedar-y white cheese and a sliver of green chili which provided just enough pleasurable heat. It's something worth ordering again for the next visit.


Chef Dogan Turkish Grill & Restaurant
221-E Katipunan Avenue, Project 4,
Quezon City, Philippines

Tel. +632 913 0764, +632 697 9852
Mobile No. +63906 3772213

Table Conversation: On Thanksgiving

Nowhere in Philippine history did Native Americans saving European pilgrims from starvation by teaching them to sow the land and fish occur. However, one of the earlier Spanish explorers who tried to convert locals to Christianity in 1521 was met by bamboo spears and cutlasses. But I digress.

Thanksgiving dinners are in essence harvest festivals. Which has evolved over the years as a time to reunite with friends and family. Even inviting new acquaintances into ones home and celebrating with copious amounts of holiday food. Turkey being native to America has long been considered as a symbol of prosperity, hence its use. However, it is not actually believed that turkey was served in the first Thanksgiving menu; in fact, venison, lobster, geese and shellfish would have been more accurate. But I digress again.

The concept of giving thanks isn't really a foreign concept for Filipinos. We hear thanks giving masses for every single blessing a family receives. A son or daughter graduating; passing the bar or board exams. Even a promotion or getting a first job entails some bit of thanks giving. But it's the concept of the Thanksgiving dinner itself that's a little bit alien. You see we have a couple of months to do that; basically called the Christmas season, wherein Christmas dinners are celebrated as early as the first week of December till the first few weeks of January to be able to meet up with all of one's friends and family. It gets hectic. And stressful. So celebrating Thanksgiving might seem a bit of overkill for a regular Filipino as it adds another two weeks to the normally already busy holiday season.



But yesterday we were invited to a friend's family's Thanksgiving dinner. Having spent most of their childhood in California they started and kept observing this practice for what it represented. The primary purpose of giving thanks for the blessings during the year and also spending time with family. Of course there was the turkey with all the fixings but everyone pitched in a dish or so ranging from boiled corn and barbecued ribs, some ridiculously good chicken adobo and callos, penoy from Pateros and classic pumpkin pie among others. A "best of" menu of sorts of the clan. Which of course we were quite honored to be sampling that time. We went home a little inebriated and a lot full; even bringing home a little plastic container of that killer adobo as a souvenir. But what we also brought home was the fuzzy feeling of being like a part of the family. Which was the cherry on top of the icing on top of that decadent chocolate cake.

On The Table: Joey de Larrazabal-Blanco

I absolutely enjoy reading Joey Blanco's Blog, 80 Breakfasts. Her bubbly enthusiasm and her love for cooking is so evident, it oozes out of her well-written pages. My admiration extends to the the fact that her blog also exudes her genuine love for her family and life itself. Reading her blog is like a magic pill one takes to drive the blues away. Let's catch a glimpse into what makes Joey tick:

Of all the things that you could write about why food?

I love food - both consuming it and preparing it, and every other step of the process that brings it from its origins to our table.

Who are the food writers who inspire you and why?

Ruth Reichl always makes me want to eat anything she writes about, plus, she makes me laugh which is very important in my book. Also, say what you will about her, I love the gutsy voluptousness of Nigella's writing. Even if she pushes her adjectives and superlatives to the very edge of decency, you can't delny her unbridled enthusiasm for food, which is something I relate to very much. Tessa Kiros' lyrical, dreamy writing in her cookbooks never fail to inspire me. I also love Anthony Bourdain. But I have a mad crush on him so perhaps mine is a very, very biased opinion. In the blog world i love to read Molly of Orangette... excellent writing, food or otherwise!

Many regional cuisines like Thai, Singapore and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Pinoy food hasn't achieved the same global acclaim?

Ah, a much debated question! there are many reasons why this could be so, and I'm no expert, but I think one of the reasons is because Filipino food is so "familial". Recipes are passed down from one generation to the next, involving more feel and estimations than exact measurement, and one family's recipe can be vastly different from another's. What happens is you have a million different versions of Adobo... so which is the standard that you will serve in a restaurant? Also, Filipinos are more likely to serve foreigners foreign food rather than Filipino food I think, a habit which may have kept our cuisine in our kitchens instead of on the world stage. That being said, I think the times are changing now and our cuisine is starting to get more of the attention it deserves in the global scene!

You have been writing you blog for over five years now, what changes have you observed in the local food scene over the years?

My goodness! I feel like a dinosaur, heehee! I think people are becoming more and more conscious of where their food comes from and what they are putting in their mouths and bodies. There is a renewed interest in preparing one's own food and enjoying a home-cooked meal. Which is all great! I love seeing younger people at the markets choosing items with care, talking to the purveyors, being curious about ingredients and ways to prepare them.

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food related television show and food magazine?

My favorite food blog? I can't name just one! I would have to say in no particular order: Chocolate and Zucchini, 101 Cookbooks, Smitten Kitchen, Market Manila, La Tartine Gourmande, Rasa Malaysia, Eating Asia... and thats just the tip of the iceberg. I love food bloggers. Yes, I'm biased that way:) Cookbook? Anything by Donna Hay or Tessa Kiros. How to be a Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson. Yes, I love pictures and flowery language... and I'm not shy to admit it! Food-related TV show? All Jamie Oliver's shows... love his enthusiasm! We should all be that excited about what we are eating! Food magazine? Donna Hay Magazine and locally, Yummy.

I know that you are a big fan of Anthony Bourdain. If for example, one day, he calls you and asks to spend the day with you. Where would you take him for breakfast, mid-morning snack, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?

I would not take him anywhere! I would keep him all to myself heehee:) Seriously, I would rather stay home with a case of wine and have him teach me how to cook properly!

Your love for cooking is very evident to anyone who reads your blog. Please tell our readers what is your signature dish?

Hmmm. That's a tough one. I am constantly learning and discovering and exploring. So I don't think I've really settled on a signature. If there is one thing I'd like to impart on my readers is that you don't have to have a signature dish... you can have several and they can keep changing and evolving over the years, just as we all change and evolve as people. I do like to think I make a not-too-shabby fabada though:)

What junk food do you love?

I don't really enjoy junk food. I am more a food-food sort of person who enjoys polishing off a crispy pata as opposed to a bag of chips ( and believe me I can finish the former before the latter). That being said, McDonald's Twister Fries have this almost unholy hold over me. Thank goodnes they don't always serve them.

Is there a food that you just can't seem to enjoy?

Chicken liver. Sorry folks, it just won't take.

Can you give three tips to aspiring food bloggers?

Write about something you love and you will never be led astray. Be honest and sincere. Have fun! Really, at the end of the day, that's all there is to it.

What are the future plans for Joey de Larrazabal-Blanco and 80 Breakfasts?

This question makes me feel like a CEO of a blue-chip company! Sorry to disappoint but I have no grand 5-year plan in the works--just more of what I enjoy which is cooking and eating and sharing this all with you through my blog. As my family grows (we are now three!) I see my cooking growing to include my little one's needs. I've already posted about baby food! I also have some writing beyond my blog planned for 2011... you'll have to stay tuned for that!

Table Suggestions: Kozui Anmitsu Redux

Kozui has been on the Tomas Morato block for several years now. Which is a lot to say as many restaurants along that stretch open and close in just a few months' time. It's a hands-on business; evident from its entire "green" look, the well edited menu and merchandising. And you can always see the owner puttering or manning the register or meeting with purveyors. Given how solid the concept of this place is you'd expect to have franchises in all the malls by now. But there are no other branches. I guess they're more keen on retaining standards; which is good. They make some perfectly crisp-fried chicken karaage here; served either on rice or in a pita wrap. The takoyaki's not bad as well. The minced spinach soup always satisfies. (And honestly, I love how they squeeze dayap or lime in the service water.) But whatever it is I eat as my main meal, I noticed I always had to have the anmitsu for dessert. It's a Japanese iced treat usually made with fruits, jellies and bean pastes atop some shaved ice. Kozui's version involves some sweet red beans, taro paste, pastel colored chewy dango (or mochi) balls and a generous swirl of soft serve green tea ice cream atop some coarse grated ice. I suppose I like the toppings more as I never really get to the bottom ice layer much. And its not so cloyingly sweet as the bitterness of the green tea and the "neutrality" of the dango help balance out the sweetness of the beans and taro paste; which is to say you probably should get your own serving. A simple, unfussy cold treat I wish I were having right now, actually.


Kozui Green Tea
258 Tomas Morato Ave.
cor. Sct. Fernandez St.,
Quezon City

Tel. (632) 413 2705

The Travelling Table: Extreme Eats

C and I were walking down a quiet street in Guangzhou when we came about a group of people milling about a food cart. I really could not see what the fuss was about but I decided to join the queue and just hope for the best. I was banking on the age-old theorem that states: Long Line = Good Food.

As I got closer I could see that what was being sold were the insides of the cow cooked in a broth. There was some tripe, blood cakes, intestines, the reticulum, parts of the heart, and many other tasty bits. After questioning my queue mate further with my limited Mandarin, I gathered that what was being served was called Niu Chang or Niu Zha. This literally means "Cow's Insides". It is a common street side snack in the South China area including Hong Kong. Hong Kong serves a much tamer version. It could be because some of the parts are not as readily available.

After waiting about fifteen minutes, I was able to get close enough to see the action first hand. The Vendor had a pair of tongs in one hand and a pair of scissors in the other. He would pick up different parts with the tong and cut little pieces from each part until you have 500 grams worth on your bowl. He then puts in a couple of scoops and broth and tops it off with a boiled potato. Add some chili sauce to taste and voila there you have it.

I have to admit to some trepidation, especially after I saw the vendor pull out a whole jaw complete with teeth and started cutting a portion of the gums into the bowl. Also, there is the hygiene concern as well. However, buoyed by the long line of people, and thinking of what Andrew Zimmern would do, I soldiered on. I was pleasantly rewarded by a delicious and clean tasting snack. The different parts tasted like they were well cleaned, not too chewy and there was no gamey or funny tastes at all. It was excellent and, I would have eaten more but visions of spending the night next to the toilet or maybe even in a Chinese hospital, convinced me not to press my luck. I then rushed back to our hotel lounge to have a couple of shots of bourbon just for insurance. Cost for this tasty snack RMB13 or P88.