The Travelling Table: Food Streets

I am absolutely fascinated by visiting food streets. So much so that I make it a point to plan a visit every time I travel. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy eating at good restaurants, but I have always believed that to get a taste of the soul of a particular country’s cuisine; eating on the street is a must. At this level, the food you will find is reasonably priced, almost always delicious, and you will definitely be spoilt for choice.

From the top: Lamb & Cuttlefish Skewers Shanghai; Assorted Steamed Dim Sum Guangzhou

The most recent food streets I visited were the Tung Hwa Night Market in Taipei, the Shangxia Jiu Lu/Qi Lou lu Pedestrian Street in Guangzhou and Xizang Nan Lu Food Street in Shanghai.Normally, a food street is closed to vehicular traffic. Vendors and their carts abound in the center area selling mostly snacks or food that could be easily handled. On both sides of the street, there are more permanent establishments like eateries, sweet shops and various merchants selling anything from trinkets to DVDs.

From the top: Various Preserved Fruits Shanghai; Grilled Langoustines Guangzhou

The star of the show of course is the food. Locals who live in the areas close by have their favorites and long lines are not uncommon at these stalls. I would normally as rule of thumb, join these lines to get a feel of what the locals are into. Often, the stalls that have the longest lines have been around for many years. Many are owned and run by families who have passed down their secret recipes to members of the next generation. It can sometimes get a bit overwhelming as there are many things that I want to try but one’s stomach, even mine, has a capacity limit.

My Kraken: Chou Doufu

During my visit to Tung Hwa Market, Howard my Taiwanese friend, insisted that I try Chou Doufu or Stinky Tofu. Chou Doufu is one of the most recognizable snacks found in countries like Hong Kong, Mainland China and Taiwan. Its aroma is unmistakable and its reach is quite expansive. Walk into any general area where they serve Chou Doufu and you will definitely be welcomed by its distinct smell of fermentation. We were served two types of Chou Doufu: Fried with some chili sauce and radish pickles and the black colored Hunan style in a broth of goose blood. I have always thought that I could eat anything but this time, I think I have found my Kraken. I first ate the fried one and it was tolerable bordering on good. Then I had the black one. Its flavor was overpowering but still edible enough to swallow. The problem was the aftertaste that came after. It was like something died in my mouth and refused to be spit out. Never did I need a breath mint more than at this time. Will I try eating Chou Doufu again? Oh most definitely. Now it has become a challenge, and just like Perseus, I need to slay my Kraken.

Table Recipes: Calamansi and Sour Plum Cooler

Everybody seems to be talking about climate change. Whether all these heavier rains and unrelenting summers are a result thereof. Or if this global warming phenomena is even actually a myth. I say it's been really hot. Freakishly so in that the past summer months, I've never remembered Manila reaching highs of near 40 degrees. Though its been raining of late, temperatures still remain warm even during cloudy days and evenings. What I like drinking in the hot weather, though, is this beverage I like to refer to as the Asian electrolyte drink. Not Pocari Sweat, though that is tasty too despite the name. But a drink anyone can make as its just made up of 3 ingredients.





To make a serving of calamansi and sour plum cooler you will need 3 to 4 pieces of fresh calamansi; squeezed in a tall glass while straining the seeds. I like throwing in the rind for the extra flavor. The oils impart a more intense lime essence. Then you'll need about 3 or 4 pieces of sour plum. I get these in Aji Ichiban and it could get confusing as there are different varieties which all seem to look the same. These are known as kiamoy in general locally but take note; the white kiamoy we're familiar with would be called salted sour plums and I think would prove to be way salty and dry. I try to avoid the red variety as well as aside from the salt content, it gives the drink a red hue as natural looking as Mickey Rourke's dimples. However if you like drinking brackish things then this might be for you. Sour plums have a more balanced mix of sweet, salty and tartness and the flesh is more pliable. So you throw in about 3 to 4 pieces in the glass as well. Or more if you prefer a more concentrated plum flavor. Slightly muddle everything together with a bar spoon or the back of a wooden spoon, fill the glass with ice and then top off with some clear lime soda. Done. As an after dinner drink, I put in a shot or two of vodka or gin before topping off with soda. So easy and very refreshing. And the best part is when you've finished the drink, you can go ahead and eat the now plumped up plums at the bottom of the glass.

Table Suggestions: Bee Cheng Hiang's Gourmet Bakkwa

Just like Christmas morning.

The wife, having been to Singapore recently, brought home with her a special package. The contents wrapped in paper and sealed in a special plastic bag. No, it wasn’t any of those brand name, designer stuff you find along the shopping stretch of Orchard Road but a parcel of Bee Cheng Hiang’s gourmet bakkwa. I die.

Bakkwa is sort of like a Chinese style beef jerky, except usually made of pork. To make it you marinate lean minced pork with sugar, salt and other secret herbs, let it set in a thin layer before its smoked and grilled. The end product is a sweet/salty sheet of asado flavored meat. It’s good but I’m not really a fan of it as the lean meat mixture usually toughens up in the cooking process.

Beautiful pile of pork.

In the early 2000’s Bee Cheng Hiang came up with a recipe for “gourmet bakkwa”, using rashers of streaky pork belly instead of minced meat. The end result was so successful that they came up with a spicy gourmet bakkwa variety not long after. There's a huge difference from the original recipe in terms of texture in that it remains tender and moist even days after they’re grilled. Not that it’ll actually last long after taking a pack home.

And so I snip open the sealed plastic bag and immediately its smoky aroma gives my nostrils a wake-up kick. My mouth instantaneously waters. I pry open the oil-soaked paper to unveil the mound of glistening, caramelized strips. I shudder as I sample a morsel; the fat just oozes with every bite and the flesh just melts in the mouth. An intense pork flavor fills my palate with hints of five spice and fish sauce.

Like stained glass. Lovely streaks of fat and crispy burnt edges.

It’s perfect torn into small pieces and chucked in a bowl of hot congee. Or maybe eaten like tocino with garlic fried rice and a sunny side up. I like it in a toasted baguette just as much as in a soft pan de sal; with no other condiment. But on its own, preferably warm, it’s greasy goodness to the nth degree.

Bee Cheng Hiang

www.bch.com.sg