The Travelling Table: Xia Fei Shanghainese

Going around the new K11 (a.k.a. “the world’s first art mall”) mid-afternoon, I stumbled upon a line forming in one of the almost hidden basement corners. Finding out it was a Chinese restaurant I fell in line just the same for some post-lunch lunch. I wasn’t really hungry. I suppose it was more out of curiosity that I lined-up as I’m sure all the locals and Mainland China folks in queue were on to something good. And I was right.

Xia Fei is a Shanghainese skewed handmade noodle and dumpling house that also serves some pretty authentic ala carte dishes. The first thing you’ll notice going inside is the open kitchen where line cooks stretch out dough into edible threads and pleat sheets of flour into perfectly shaped dumplings. There were spicy minced pork noodles and scallion pancakes and braised eel along with lots of other interesting stuff on the menu but I decide to order some light items.

First up were the mustard cress and diced bean curd wrapped in bean curd sheet. It was served cold and the greens and crunchy pine nuts inside the bean curd roll proved to make a very refreshing starter. Very mild tasting.

The xia long bao was very good as well. Soupy and meaty on the insides and served incredibly hot out of the steamer. Daresay comparable to that of Din Tai Fung’s? But I suppose it loses out in terms of quantity per basket. In any case, I’d just order several baskets of these and I’d be completely happy.

What I liked best among the random picks was the deep fried French beans with salted egg yolk. Which is exactly what’s advertised; deep fried long green beans tossed with a sauce made with tons of salted duck eggs. I slathered the yolk and beans in my bowl of steaming white rice and had a greedy mouthful. Then I think I gave out an involuntary sigh.

For dessert I had the Chinese herbs in sweet soup. Now this was interesting. It was cold and had the texture of mashed jell-o. It had this medicinal aroma that was not in any way off-putting. In fact I really enjoyed it. Considering I didn’t recognize a single ingredient that was in it. A nice revitalizing end that also cleansed and soothed the palate.

I wouldn’t categorize Xia Fei as a chichi restaurant of the moment. Nor do I think it tries to project itself to be. But it’s definitely the type of place you go to to get good, old fashioned, standard comfort food at very democratic prices. Which will make the lines at this place a constant. I have my eye on those huge noodle soups with the menacingly red chili oil for my next visit.

Xia Fei Shanghainese

Shop B226-B227

K11, 18 Hanoi Road,

Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

The Travelling Table: Lunch at Caprice

On a recent trip to China, I was fortunate enough to spend a few hours in Hong Kong. I decided to try Caprice and see what all the fuss was about.

Located at the posh Four Seasons Hotel in Central, Caprice is one of only two Hong Kong Restaurants that has three Michelin Stars to its name (the other being Lung King Heen, also at the Four Seasons). So, what makes a restaurant deserve 3 Michelin stars? Is it the understated and elegant décor highlighted by Chinese inspired chandeliers? Is it the extensive wine list? Is it the creative and tasty dishes that use the best and freshest ingredients? Is it the impeccable service? Many restaurants around the world, to a certain degree, have these elements present. What makes Caprice worthy? I call it “subtle synergism”. Everything that goes on in the restaurant has to look completely uncontrived as if it is second nature. This is something that very few restaurants are able to manage, as it is very, very difficult to achieve. Head Chef Vincent Thierry and Restaurant Manager Jeremy Evrard, who both trace their roots to the George V in Paris, have been able to create a restaurant that has the best of everything, but does not overwhelm. This is subtle synergism at its best.

View from my window side table

Lunch is always a good time to try expensive restaurants. Most have a multiple course set menu that highlights the season’s chef’s specials at about half of what it would cost to have the same thing during dinner. For Caprice, the Lunch Set costs HK$400 for three courses including coffee and petits fours. I for one could not decide what to have, so I left it to Mr. Evrard to give me his personal recommendations.

For my first course, Mr Evrard presented me with a Tomato Tart with Mozzarella and Parma Ham. To be honest, I thought that the combination would be too ordinary. I was pleasantly mistaken though, as the dish was surprisingly complex in flavor, with all three main ingredients complementing each other perfectly.

Tomato Tart with Mozzarella and Parma Ham. A work of Art

I then moved on to my main course, which was Stuffed Guinea Fowl with Saffron Risotto with sides of Fennel and Natural Au Jus. Besides knowing that it was some form of poultry, I had no clue as to what a Guinea fowl looked or tasted like. As a rule, I normally do not opt for poultry as a main course as the flavors do not excite me as much as other meats. However, since I had decided earlier to place myself completely in Mr. Evrard’s capable hands, I just hoped that I would not be disappointed. The verdict: It was divine. The meat tasted like a sophisticated combination of Turkey and Chicken. Herb Butter was infused between the skin and the flesh giving the delicately tender slices the extra oomph that was needed to make this dish one of the best I have ever had.

Stuffed Guinea Fowl with Saffron Risotto. Check out the funky Erquis silverware.

Chef Thierry has always been known to whip up very creative and excellent desserts so I was very excited to try my Warm Apple Tart, especially when it was described to me by my server: “Warm apple tart consisting of a light pastry infused with apples; caramelized apple slices, cinnamon mousse, with a lime sorbet and a green apple coulis.” Being biased for anything apple I am normally not the right person to give an objective opinion. But, take my word for it, this dessert tastes even better than it looks. The pastry had just the right flakiness, the apples and the lime sorbet had the right tartness and the sweetness of the mousse was perfectly tempered.

Warm apple tart

Guava and Lemon Flavored Jelly, Passion Fruit Macarons, Coconut Filled Chocolate Squares

Having noticed the look of contented bliss on my face, Mr. Evrard graciously offered me another dessert to try on the house. Alas, I had to respectfully decline, as I was both extremely full from my meal and late for an afternoon appointment. I promised him though, that I would definitely be back for more of Caprice.

Caprice

Four Seasons Hotel.
8 Finance Street,

Central, Hong Kong.
Tel: +852 31968866

http://www.fourseasons.com/hongkong/dining/caprice