Thursday, January 28, 2010

Food Resolutions: From Nose to Tail

Nothing is Wasted
Nothing to Waste

Hello. My name is Franco. I'm a porkalohic.

People who know me well know that I have a love for the pig, bordering on obsession. And although most food resolutions during this time of year are all about cutting back and eating healthier, I'm planning to eat more of the piggy kind.

It isn't so much about quantity but more about quality. More precisely, I'm working toward organizing a meal that any pork lover would give their right arm to attend. This dinner will involve the entire pig but it is not about creating a lechon fest - so many do that better than I possibly could.

I am a huge fan of Chef Fergus Henderson. At his London restaurant, St. John, he and his partner, Trevor Gulliver have created a venerable temple to feasting on the entire animal. They call it Nose to Tail Eating. It is because of Chef Henderson's innovative menu, many diners have rediscovered the delectable joys of offal, gamey meats and other ignored cuts of protein. It is in keeping with Chef Henderson's philosophy that I am hoping to organize (with the help of some like-minded souls) this meal.

For me, this is the year of the pig. I will keep you posted.

Photograph by Erik Lacson. Thank you.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Food Resolutions: Food Feng Shui

Food Resolutions: Food Feng Shui
Eating To Better Health

Towards the end of last year I was feeling under the weather with flu like symptoms but without the temperature. Headaches, coughing and sniffling over several days proved to be an ordeal as I’m not really the type to get sick easily. So I pay a visit to my doctor. With training in both eastern and western medicine, he examines me and says I have too much heat in my body; unbalanced Chi. He asks me to lie down on my belly and then proceeds to walk his fingers on my spine and sticks needles into specific points in my torso. The needles are taken out after a while and he returns for some further consultation. He explains that sometimes, external factors as cold wind blowing at your back or weather changes causes too much heat in the body and in this case was giving me colds. To which the acupuncture was one remedy to my condition, the other was for me to increase consumption of cooling (yin) and neutral foods and lessen consumption of warming (yang) foods.

I did some research on these types of foods and it didn’t help very much that what I would normally eat caused the prolonging of my symptoms. Pepper, chili, chicken, garlic, shrimp, red meat, basil, onions and mangoes among others were foods that heated my already hot body (literally not figuratively). So I had to avoid or eat less of these and more of bananas, bitter gourd (ampalaya), salt, seaweed, bean curd, yogurt, broccoli and tomatoes among others to cool off. I was also instructed to drink lots of tea in the meantime as it had a cooling effect as well.

In my search for yin food, I stumbled upon these wonderful Black Beauty variety watermelons at the Landmark grocery. I’ve never encountered these hefty, dark green, oblong fruit before and decided to try them out. I sliced them open and was surprised to find the insides a bright yellow. My first bite revealed it was tender, extremely succulent and very sweet. Eyes widened and like a man possessed I devoured most of the 1kg fruit in one sitting. Ice cold, this watermelon was the bomb.

Yellow watermelons were first produced through crossbreeding to take out the anti-oxidant lycopene, which gives the flesh its commonly red hue; same as in tomatoes. Why they took it out, I don’t really know. But it sure made for one sugary and luscious fruit. I understand this variety comes from China/Taiwan and are rather hardy and high yield, which I suppose explains the also attractive price; roughly P100 for a 2Kg fruit. Giving it another plus because I planned on eating more of it over a couple more days.

The question now is, did I feel better after said few days? Yes. It was a bit enlightening to find out how harmonizing consumption of seemingly everyday foods can affect one’s well-being. So for 2010 my food resolution would be to eat a balance of yin and yang everyday (or most days). A truly tasty way to keep healthy and definitely better than popping pills. And if this prescription should introduce and reintroduce me to foods I haven't had in a few years or at all I should say I’ve never been more than willing to follow doctor’s orders.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

The Travelling Table: Marché

The Travelling Table: Marché

When you walk into Marché 313@somerset mall, you’ll kind of feel disoriented, to say the least. From the outside, you see this green restaurant amidst Singapore's urban jungle. Just another one of the better bakeries in the city, you could say to yourself. A few steps in, down a spiral staircase, and you’re suddenly surrounded by centuries-old pine logs taken from Swiss mountain cabins, flown in and painstakingly reassembled by craftsmen. Antiques and Goldilocks chairs complete the cozy Swiss Alpine house feel. And while this is sounding like Marché is all about being a European looking theme-restaurant, it’s definitely not.

Marché’s concept is to deliver fresh and healthy food fast. It’s a multi-awarded restaurant chain whose vision is “to become the freshest gastronomy business in all of Europe.” (I think the word “Europe” should now be replaced with “the world.” They’re all over Europe but are now actively expanding in Asia). Hence it emphasizes regional and seasonal ingredients wherever they happen to be located. Everything is prepared on site--from bread dough to hand-squeezed fresh juices. Nothing comes from commissaries.

There’s a seasonal salad and vegetable station, which literally offers market fresh produce that is cooked per order. There’s a homemade pasta/ravioli station as well as a wood-fired brick oven that churns out great pizzas. There’s even a crêperie. At the center of the market is an apple wood grill where a good selection of sausages, lamb, pork and beef can be found. To the side of it is the rösti station where there’s always a long line. The dessert station serves freshly baked cakes and pastries as well as Mövenpick ice cream.

The Travelling Table: Marché

The problem with having too many choices is that it leaves you with analysis-paralysis. I suggest one does a walk-around before ordering anything.

For lunch I had some rösti, French garlic sausages, sautéed mushrooms with balsamic vinegar and parsley, a two-foot long pine nut-crusted sourdough bread stick with grain mustard and some freshly squeezed calamansi juice (I told you they served regional produce as well). All of it wonderful. Nothing was oily. The rösti, which was easy to drench in grease, had nothing but a pleasant hint of bacon. The mushrooms were cooked just so, still plump and earthy.

Marché employs a magnetic strip card system in which your orders are swiped in a “credit card” (handed to you upon entry) at every station you place an order at. After your meal you then check out by swiping the same card at the cashier’s to find out the total damage. Quite efficient, yes but it’s also very easy to get carried away swiping at every counter you find interesting. I had to remind myself a few times that it wasn’t a buffet. At the end of the day I totally get what Marché stands for and it’s definitely a better alternative to the many quick service restaurants out there in terms of food quality and healthy offerings.

Marché 313@Somerset
Level 1

Discovery Walk

313 Orchard Road

Singapore

Tel: (65) 6834 4041

Fax: (65) 6509 6104

Thursday, January 14, 2010

The Travelling Table: Boon Tong Kee

The Travelling Table: Boon Tong Kee

It’s one of Singapore’s national foods, along with chili crab and laksa. Obviously originating from China, Hainanese chicken rice is now actually more commonly assimilated with the everyday cuisines of Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand (where it's known as kao mun gai). I remember an uncle telling me one time having pretty underwhelming chicken rice in the Hainan province itself, proof how the original recipe has probably evolved due to the great chicken rice diaspora.

I notice it truly gets Singaporeans riled up when you ask them where to get the “best” chicken rice. There are many excellent traditional chicken rice places as Wee Nam Kee, Five Star and Loy Kee to name a few, not including the probably hundreds of independent operations in the food centers that sell them for less than S$2.00 per plate. But my favorite would probably be Boon Tong Kee, particularly the River Valley Road branch which has evolved from a single stall operation to a chain of restaurants.

Boon Tong Kee is actually a full-menu restaurant that serves other pretty tasty dishes as well. I couldn’t get enough of the peanuts they serve as appetizers. Huge at almost the size of broad beans, they’re boiled in a spiced broth and attain this pleasantly meaty texture. The Thai style deep-fried chicken feet was a pretty good starter as well--boneless chicken feet battered, deep-fried and topped with a sweet chili sauce. No more fidgeting around with bone shrapnel. It actually tasted like fried oysters.

The Travelling Table: Boon Tong Kee

Another respectable one was the spinach with scrambled and century eggs in a salted fish scented broth. A popular item with the regulars were the spareribs with coffee sauce served with fried mantou. It didn’t really taste like coffee but I suppose the addition of (I assume) instant coffee grounds provided for a smoky, caramel-ey background to the thick salty-sweet sauce. Nicely done.

Next came the star: the chicken rice itself. Shaped into the restaurant’s signature pyramid mold, it possessed a golden hue and glistened from the chicken fat, broth and spices it was cooked in. The plump boiled chicken is usually served on a platter for sharing as opposed to being topped on rice as we’re usually accustomed to. Tender and juicy with a great infusion of herbs, this bird was something special. The aromas just fill the palate with every mouthful.

I suppose everybody has his or her own special way of eating chicken rice. But personally I like to dab some kecap manis, chili and ginger sauces on a morsel of chicken meat atop some of the rice. I die a little bit with every spoonful.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

The Travelling Table: Yong Tau Foo

The Travelling Table: Yong Tau Foo
A Lovely Bowl of Goodness

Christmas-time in the Philippines can get unbelievably chaotic. All the parties. The rich food. The family reunions. The decadent sweets. The consumption of copious amounts of alcohol. All events and stress factors manifest themselves physically when I fearfully tip the scales come January in the form of “mysterious” excess poundage.

The Travelling Table: Yong Tau Foo
Picking the Greens

Not that I’m complaining about the eating bit. But it IS possible to get over satiated with holiday food. And so being in Singapore right after Christmas was sort of a welcome retreat. Of course, it was time for more eating but at least with another flavor spectrum. One of the things I often look for when in the City-state is Yong Tau Foo. It’s not exactly a restaurant but more a type of food that can be found in most hawker centers and food courts in the city. (This particular one located at the Funan Digitalife Mall on North Bridge Road). The general idea is to pick out ingredients from a wide selection of fresh vegetables and daily homemade goodies like fried wontons, squid balls, stuffed bitter gourd, fish tofu, fish cake, etc… (every stall will have its own variety of offerings)… and place them in your bowl. At the end of the counter you pick out noodles of your choice, if desired, then a lady dunks everything in boiling soybean broth and you’re served this big bowl of wonderful soup.

The Travelling Table: Yong Tau Foo
Some like It Hot

I usually take mine “dry”, meaning after everything’s dunked and blanched in the hot broth, they strain all the ingredients and top everything with a brown sweet sauce and a thick laksa-like chili sauce. The vegetables remain crunchy without the raw flavor and the meats mingle with the bean broth and ooze out a nice soup. So just imagine the meats, dumplings, vegetables, broth and sauces just mixing all together; it’s a lot going on. I didn’t put noodles and just picked out a lot of vegetables. Wantons, stuffed chili and fishcakes under the greens were mostly made from fish so the overall dish remained quite healthy. And, more importantly, tasty.

The Travelling Table: Yong Tau Foo
Boiling Over

It’s always a treat to have some of this stuff. Because of the type of cooking involved (which is basically blanching for a few seconds); ingredients, especially the vegetables, have to be super fresh. Eaten as a soup, you get a clean and delicate tasting meal--light but filling. Eaten dry, it’s a more bold, spicy and hearty affair--very satisfying.

Friday, January 8, 2010

On the Table: Chef Him Uy De Baron Of Chef Cuisine

chef him

Meet Chef Him Uy De Baron (yes, that is him real name).

The executive chef of a catering company called Chef Cuisine, Chef Him prides himself for not only catering to his client's culinary desires at any price point but also for bringing the focus back to where it should be the creation of sumptuously memorable meals. Don't be distracted by the name. From my personal experience, the only thing more distinctive than his name is the deliciously vibrant flavors and meticulous attention to detail Chef Him brings to the plate. His is a name definitely worth remembering.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My mom. I grew up with my mom manning the kitchen for every meal especially on special occasions. These food memories have influenced my own cooking.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

On food and cooking, The French Laundry Cookbook. It opened up my eyes to how a genius and perfectionist is at work and what a near perfect kitchen looks like. Non-food related, it has to be the bible. It has saved my life and it continues to be a source of strength and purpose, refreshing our lives.

What was your first job in the food business?

I was a busboy for a cafe.

When did you decide you wanted to start Chef Cuisine?

A client came to me to meet about a consultancy job for an existing catering company. One thing led to another and now here I am..

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

The great thing about a catering company is that there is no daily menu. You're free to cook up a different menu every single event and I enjoy creating new menus for specific needs of my client. I do enjoy cooking Asian food with big bold flavors.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

The original Soleil. I was a student then and had to save up to bring a date there. I had the legendary sea bass. It was sublime, a revelation, a bite I wont forget. It showed me first hand what food and the whole restaurant experience was capable of doing to a person's senses. And I also like Alba's where I told my future wife I liked her...

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

It really depends on our mood (me and my wife) but we do have safe bets and constants that we go to. For Italian, it's Balducci or a little mom-and-pop place called Pizzaria Toscana. For a quick satisfying noodle place, it's Beijing Hand Pulled Noodles. For simple but excellent Filipino food, 1521. I also love ramen at Aji Sen. Dimsum and Chinese at Shang Palace. For Thai, I like People's Palace.

What junk food do you love?

Chips and KFC Hot Shots. The crunch of MSG-laden fried food is simply too difficult to resist.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Pretentious food.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I've been wanting to open up my own joint with my own food and style. I'm hoping it will happen within a year or two. I've been really patient with this because I want it to be right. It has to be the right time, right place, right staff, right partners and the right season in my life. I do feel it's fast approaching.
Chef Cuisine
3rd floor
The Centerpoint Condominium
J. Vargas cor Garnet Street
Ortigas Center, Pasig City
Tel: (02) 633-6577
Fax: (02) 633-6579
Email: chefcuisine06@gmail.com
Website: www.chefcuisine.multiply.com

Monday, January 4, 2010

Table Conversation: Turning Japanese

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Uni Sashimi from Inagiku

There is an allure to eating your food raw.

While the notion of eating food uncooked may seem odd to many people, the Japanese have taken this idea and brought it to whole new level. With creation of sashimi and sushi, they have made an indelible contribution to world cuisine. But let's focus on the local...

I love the raw stuff. From intimate spaces like Hatsu Han-Tei and Kai to sumptuous pleasure domes like Inagiku and Umu, I am not one to deprive my craving. But with the explosion of sushi/sashimi dining options, finding the 'good stuff' has become a challenge. I'm always looking to upgrade my sushi/sashimi experience. So I figured who better to ask than my fellow judges for Spot Gold Awards. So I ask the question:

When you get the a craving for sushi or sashimi, where do you go?
JJ Yulo says:

Well, I have to say that my sushi/sashimi eating has gotten a bit complex -- in the sense that I think we're catching and consuming way too much of it (to put it simply, I want my kids to be able to enjoy sushi when they get older too!) ... having said that, I don't really subject myself to cheap sushi anymore. When I get a craving, I make sure it's high quality -- so I head of to Inagiku (my fave sushi spot) or Tzukiji (where I get my sashimi fix).
sushi
Serving Up the Sushi at Kai
Chef Him Uy De Baron says:

Someone I trust. I'm the consultant for East Cafe in Rustan's Makati and we serve sushi/sashimi and maki's so that's where I get my raw fish fix. Aside from that, trusted hotel buffet's because you know its fresh.

Cherie Gil says:

I want to go to New York City. But alas I'm in Manila so I opt for Umu or Sushi Kappo.
<span class=
More Sashimi from Inagiku
Chef Aileen Anastacio says:

For sushi and sashimi, I go to Sugi. It's like my second home. my store Goodies n' Sweets used to be across it when it was still at the crossroad arcade in Greenhills so i go there when i get the sushi/sashimi craving.

I also like Kikufuji in Makati. Prices are reasonable and serving portions are pretty generous.

Becky Kho says:

Tsumura! I just had dinner there last night and I had the absolute pleasure of rediscovering how creative and masterful Chef Tsumura really is.
To vote for your favorite restaurants for the Spot Gold Awards, please click here.

Much thanks to JJ Yulo, Chef Him Uy De Baron, Cherie Gil, Aileen Anastacio and Becky Kho

Kai

Unit I-112

Greenbelt 5

Ayala Center

Makati City

Tel: (02) 757 5209


Inagiku
Level 2

Shangri-La Hotel Manila

Ayala cor Makati Avenue
Makati City

Tel: (02) 813 8888

Fax: (02) 813 5499