Table Farewell: Je Suis Gourmand

Sometimes, we take things for granted until it is in danger of being taken away. This was exactly what I felt when I found out that one of my all time favorite restaurants, Je Suis Gourmand was going to close its doors come December 31, 2010. According to head chef and resident culinary genius Marc Aubry, the restaurant was not doing as well as it should in different areas. The partners thus decided to shut down completely.

When I heard this news my first thought was that I need to go back a couple of more times to enjoy my favorite dishes while I still can. Apparently, as word spread around town, many others also shared my same sentiment and started to flock back to Je Suis Gourmand creating a sort of renaissance if you will, with the restaurant enjoying brisk business in the past weeks.

For my last meal at Je Suis Gourmand, my original plan was to go on a date with my daughter N. However, my good buddy T after hearing of my plans, asked to tag along. I could not refuse him specially after he promised to bring a bottle of wine from the Margaux region for us to have with our meal. Chef Marc graciously prepared a simple Carbonara for my daughter while I decided to have some of my old favorites. I decided on having two starters and one main course. A little bit too much food even for me, but what the heck, I consider this meal a special occasion anyway.

Steak Tartare

First off, I asked Chef Marc to make me a Steak Tartare(P520). This dish is not on the menu, but you may order it a day in advance. Steak Tartare is one of my favorite dishes. There is nothing like having a perfectly seasoned portion of chilled minced raw meat mixed with egg yolks, onions, and capers. Je Suis Gourmand's version does not disappoint as the meat was of great quality and had the perfect lean/fat ratio. I highly recommend this to all Steak Tartare lovers out there. Very, very sarap!

Sauteed Veal Sweetbread

A Sauteed Veal Sweetbread in Herby Tomato and Garlic Sauce with Puff Pastry (P450) came next. Sweetbread is another name for the pancreas or sometimes other glands as well. From what I have read, it is usually soaked in milk for a couple of days and then fried or sauteed. Its consistency is similar to ox or goat's brain. Again, this was very tasty and definitely worth trying.

Roasted Duck Breast

If there is one thing that I most admire about Chef Marc is that he is a master at making the most delicious sauces. This was evident when I was served my Roasted Duck Breast with Dauphine Potatoes in a Fresh Mushroom Sauce. Apart from some fresh mushrooms, the sauce also had lots of finely grated fresh herbs in it. It was spot on and complemented the slices of duck breast to a point where I could only sigh in contentment.

After all that food, dessert seemed out of the question. So I decided to cap off the evening with a double espresso and some good conversation with my lovely daughter and T of course.

Chef Marc has kept mum about his future plans but word on the grapevine is that he will venture out on his own very soon. I heard that he is working on opening his own place in hopefully, the same location as where Je Suis Gourmand is now. Target opening date is March or April 2011. I hope this plan pushes through as I already miss his cooking.

I would like to greet all our readers a very Happy Christmas and a Prosperous New Year! Your continuous support has been the best gift. Please keep reading!

Je Suis Gourmand
G/F Net 1 Building
Fort Bonifacio Global City
Taguig, Metro Manila

Tel. 815.8801

Table Suggestions: Caviar Pie

Upon getting home yesterday I was told we were given some sort of cake as a Christmas gift. I checked the refrigerator and saw a nondescript cake box which seemed like it was too big for what it contained inside. I peered through the cover and saw about 5 inches in diameter of glistening black sunshine. On the corner of the lid I saw a tiny golden sticker which just simply read " Caviar Pie" and a telephone number. My goodness, I didn't know somebody loved me this much to send me probably one of my most favorite holiday foods.


A caviar pie is not exactly a pie but a layered spread made up of cream cheese, chopped onions, hard boiled eggs and sliced lemon rinds. Slathered on top is a copious amount of lumpfish caviar. (Using sturgeon roe is also possible but would definitely be too expensive). This particular pie came along with a bag of toasted pita, but it also goes well with melba toast, crackers and even apple slices. Hell, something like this would taste good with "tasty bread". I love how the rich and creamy base interacts with the slight bitterness of the lemon rind and the tiny briny explosions of the black roe. It's one of those dishes you bring to a potluck to upstage everyone else's dish. The good thing is that it's meant to be shared. But honestly, when nobody's looking, this caviar pie can be good for one.



Caviar Pie
Tel. (632) 722 22 34

For pickup in the Greenhills area.
P1000 for a 5 inch pie.
Available year-round.

Table Recipes: Suman at Mangga

Having visited the newly relocated Sidcor Market at the Eton Centris, I was able to score some huge Guimaras mangoes. A stall there solely sells this variety; pretty hard to miss the huge yellow pile in the fruit section. Going around and buying this and that we then stumbled upon a lady selling different kinds of suman and gravitated towards the Antipolo style rice treat. It usually comes in its signature packaging of palm leaf strips and has a very mildly sweet, almost bland, taste; the soft white rice inside has always been classically paired with ripe yellow carabao mangoes. It's been a while since I had these together and so I did a super basic twist to the suman at mangga duo by frying the suman in salted butter. It doesn't really absorb a lot of oil so a tablespoon or two is lots for like four pieces. I wait for it to brown and crisp up on the outsides and then add a few tablespoons of brown sugar. When the sugar has melted I then toss the suman around to coat it. Then I take them out of the fry pan and let it rest for at least five minutes. You wouldn't want to dig in right away as the sugar coating will literally burn your tongue. When the caramel coating has set, I slice the mangoes and....inhale everything in seconds. The mangoes were sweet and had a smooth jelly-like consistency. (In hindsight I could've waited a few days for the mangoes to fully ripen as it had a slight hint of tartness. The acidity worked well with everything though.) The suman's buttery candy coating crackled and gave way to the soft, warm insides. A lot of things happening at the same time. Mangoes, suman, butter and sugar. A four ingredient marvel I know a lot wouldn't mind trying at home.

The Travelling Table: Tim Ho Wan: The Dim Sum Specialists

Worth the wait.

If you go through the Internet, there is a plethora of blog posts and articles about the world's cheapest Michelin starred restaurant, Tim Ho Wan. So much so, that I felt that it would be quite predictable for me to join the fray. However, the thought of having cheap but exquisite Dim Sum proved quite irresistible. I just could not stay away.

Aside from serving excellent Dim Sum, Tim Ho Wan is also known for having notoriously long lines due to its popularity. The restaurant is tiny. It only seats about 20 diners at one time. From what I gathered the best time to go is either first thing in the morning or later on the evening, after the dinner rush.

Haa chee cheong fun

C and I decided to have brunch at Tim Ho Wan the day after we arrived in Hong Kong. This plan would entail us being ready at about 9 AM, take the MTR and arrive at the restaurant 30 minutes later. This would get us there just in time to hopefully catch the tail end of the queue for the first seating when the restaurant opens at 10 AM. After a night of dinner and drinks and more drinks with A and S, our Hong Kong based friends, We arrived at our hotel room way past 2 AM, thus jeopardizing our plans to wake up on time. Surprisingly, we were up and about early enough to get to the restaurant at around 9:50. There were about 30 people ahead of us. We were given a numbered order sheet (available in English) to check what items we would like to order and told to come back after an hour. We spent some time looking around the surrounding markets for about 30 minutes then headed back. Our number was called after around 40 minutes. Not too bad a wait. I would think that we did not have to wait too long since it was easier to seat two people. For bigger groups I would suggest you get to the restaurant at about 9 AM or risk waiting around 2 hours for a table. It is also assumed that diners are willing to share tables.

Meaty machang

Once we were seated, we gave our server our order sheet and we were immediately given a printed receipt with a list of all our orders. After a while, our Dim Sum started to arrive. Since it was just the two of us, I decided to stay away from the Pork Shao Mai and the Har Gau so that we could try other items. First up was the Glutinous Rice Dumpling Wrapped in Lotus Leaf (HK$20). A take on our local Machang, albeit a much larger version, this dish was served piping hot with all sorts of goodies inside. I enjoyed eating this dish as I was quite hung over from the night before and it was a great pick-me-up.

The famous pork buns.

Next we had the house specialty Baked Bun With Barbecue Pork (HK$12/3pcs). This variation of the Cantonese Cha Shiu Bao or our local Siopao had a baked brown crust with a thin layer of crunchy sweetish crumble on top. This dish was impeccable. The pork filling had the right balance of fattiness and flavor. The perfect filling combined with the crunchiness of the bun was a home run in my book. I ate two of the three pieces and, I would have eaten all of it if not for the dirty look C gave me.

Crunchy Spring Rolls

An order of Deep Fried Spring Rolls With Salad (HK$12) arrived shortly thereafter. This was the only disappointment of the meal for me. Don't get me wrong; the spring rolls were perfectly cooked. The wrapper was crunchy and was not drenched in oil. What I did not like was the fruit salad-like filling inside. I found it too sweet and devoid of anything substantial aside from a few pieces fruit cocktail. The filling tasted like the Hot Prawn Salad that we normally get at Chinese restaurants here but without the prawn.

I could not resist ordering the Pan-Fried Radish Cake with Pan Fried Turnips (HK$10). Again, this was perfectly cooked. Its consistency was just right: Firm enough without breaking apart. The Cake had pieces of turnip and dried seafood bits (scallops perhaps?), giving it the extra edge it needed.

Radish Cake (notice the little yummy bits inside)

The last two dishes we had were requests of C. Being the dutiful husband that I am, I immediately ordered them. Rice Roll Stuffed with Shrimp (HK$17) and Steamed Vegetable and Pork with Mushrooms Bun (HK$12). Both were very good but not extraordinary.

You might guess that we were pretty stuffed after eating all that food. There were other items on the Menu that I would have wanted to try like the Deep Fried Yuba Shrimp Roll and the Steamed Beef Ball with Bean Curd Skin. I however, had to raise the white flag since I could not eat another bite. This gives us another reason to plan a return visit on our next trip to Hong Kong. Our total bill for the whole meal including unlimited servings of hot Oolong tea: HK$87 or about P490! Yes you read it right, P490! Who would have thought that one couple could eat at a restaurant with a Michelin star and only spend that much. Waiting in line for an hour does not seem so bad now does it? Kudos to Chef Mak Pui Gor. He has made such refined and delicious Dim Sum accessible to everyone.

Tim Ho Wan: The Dim Sum Specialists

GF Phase 2, Tsui Yuen Mansion

2-20 Kwong Wa Street

Mong Kok, Hong Kong.

Closest MTR Station Yau Ma Tei or Mongkok

Tel +85223322896

Open Daily 10 AM - 10 PM

On the Table: Stephanie Zubiri

From being a food blogger, cooking instructor and food columnist of the Philippine Star to managing a full-time gourmet catering business, you could say Stephanie Zubiri has indeed immersed herself in the food world. And as if her plate weren't full enough, this dynamic twenty-something now also heads as editor in chief the newly launched Olive Magazine Philippines; a BBC title featuring fast and easy creative cooking, honest restaurant reviews and travel guides for the best eats locally and internationally. If there's something I wouldn't mind doing its eating and traveling for a living...


What was your childhood kitchen environment like?

We had an amazing kitchen with a large marble island. It was rather high up because it was one of those retro homes that was built with the main floor upstairs, so we had an amazing view or an undeveloped Alabang. My mom would make fresh pastas and apple pies. My sister loved to bake. She made the best banana bread and oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. As far as I could remember, the kitchen was one of my favorite places. I had my own mini kitchen tools, even my own set of plates for just my friends and I. I would experiment and make up pasta sauces and pester everyone. I got to eat what everyone else ate and not kiddie food. Never had mango bits to help me chew down my cold untouched food. It was more like "Steph, stop eating!"


Was there any specific moment that made you decide to make food your profession?

It was always my passion; and before leaving for France to do Cordon Bleu I had a stint at Elbert Cuenca's Restaurant 12. Although I enjoyed it I never really thought it would be my profession. After culinary school I finished my degree at the Sorbonne in the University of Paris IV, History and Geography Major with a Masters in Geography and Sustainable Development. I was doing internships with UNEP and the Philippine Delegation at UNESCO. I never really thought I'd go back to food even though I still cooked all the time. When I moved back to the Philippines, I wasn't sure what I was going to do and decided to give cooking classes in my spare time. I had so much fun teaching and sharing my passion. It just came naturally. Plus I got to earn as well. Then I knew, there's nothing better than being able to build a career out of your passion. I had to work in the food industry.


What aspect of food does your writing focus on and why? What drives you to write about food?

My writing is truly about the emotional, cultural, historic and nostalgic attachments we have to food. It's that history and geo major coming out. What makes our dining experiences extra special are the memories and feelings it can extract, conjure or create. A forgotten meal is a blah meal. Even when I cook there's always something I want to transmit. Kind of like the book "Like Water for Chocolate" by Laura Esquivel... Amazing sensory experiences just make me so happy and elated, it can be a really cheap but flavorful hawker laksa, or a delish 14 course meal at Arzak. Awful cuisine, especially when I'm over-charged for it makes me feel angry. I want to share these with people and hope they can share something with me too. I love getting emails and responses for my articles. And the biggest plus about being a food journalist? Meeting people who are just as passionate as I am and learning from them.


Every article you write in your Feast With Me column and your blog seems to be set in a different place, or country. Was there a place where you didn't think you'd enjoy the food and ended up loving it? Could you give examples of dishes and why you liked them?

Well I've been invited more and more to places around the Philippines, which is great! I get to see my country and explore through its different dishes and local flavors. I'm lucky that as I establish myself further in the food journalism industry, I get to travel around and discover. To be honest, there has been no place yet where I didn't think I'd enjoy the food. I never think that way. Whenever I travel I always look for "What can I eat here?" I already have a list of must-tries. I did go to Cuba and find most of the food a little repetitive and oily, I was hoping for more Caribbean, tropical cuisine. But it is so difficult to buy produce. Then some friends of mine invited to their home and cooked the most amazing meal ever! Lobsters he caught just that morning, marinated with coconut and grilled. Fresh corn tamales made by his wife, the corn meal pounded at home. Bonito cooked with pineapples in a pressure cooker, sweet and savory, tenderly delicious. Some fried bananas and my favorite: congri. Congri is rice cooked with black beans and topped with onions and fresh cilantro. Add some sliced fresh avocados in salt and vinegar. Wash it down with REAL mojitos, home made with freshly picked yerba buena (not mint), aged Havana club rum, fresh bright green limes and sticky brown sugar.The sound of Afro-Cuban beats in the background, laughter and friendships being formed in the courtyard of a weathered down colonial home in Trinidad. It was beautiful.


Do you have a food obsession? Like a type of food, dish or ingredient? Please share.

I have several, and more. I have like food obsessions of the month. Like I'll go for one month of just making cauliflower in different ways. Or maybe use Hungarian sausages for different purposes. My recurring favorites? Chorizo, truffle oil, pasta, eggplant, really yummy french fries and egg. My current food obsession of the month? Crispy, deep fried danggit. I love it for breakfast! And Bicolano New Look daing with garlic rice, scrambled egg, ensaladang talong and vinegar.


Where do you find yourself heading out to for after-after-party noshes (or binges) and why?

My fave used to be McDonald's... twister fries are the best! I nearly cried when they took it off the menu wailing at the poor drive-thru speaker. "Why oh why?" But I had to really stop eating after drinking... nothing worse than making your tummy big. In France I used to live beside a Pizza Pino which would stay open till 5am... pizza with fresh mushroom and ham! And another African chicken joint my friends and I discovered: Babylon Bis... open till 8am!


Your favorite restaurant in Manila?

It's got to be Sushi Kappo Kobikicho. Impeccable service, great conversations with Chef Shintaro and oh soooooo amazing food. He always sneaks me some new thing try. I am not nearly wealthy enough to eat there as often as I would like though! I also enjoy Apartment 1b for their veggie lasagna and laid back feel. I love Cyma for healthy and tasty lunch options.


Anything you would not eat or never eat again?

Moldy, illegal, full of maggots disgusting Corsican u casgiu merzu cheese...ugh. It's so pungent your mouth gets hot! Aaaaaack!


For someone who obviously likes eating, how do you keep so annoyingly svelte?

I have a very unhealthy yoyo diet! I put on five pounds... I lose five pounds... Put on, lose it... It's very unhealthy. I'll binge and do no exercise at all then go super healthy and workout insanely. I'm trying to keep a healthier lifestyle. No limitations just portion control. Like I don't have to eat that 350g rib eye steak! I can share it. Also trying to exercise more regularly and eat more veggies. Wish there would be more healthy fast food or easy lunch options in the market!






Photo by Raymund Isaac

Table Suggestions: Chef Dogan Turkish Grill and Restaurant

Pirzola or grilled lamb chops and tebulah

Chef Dogan Turkish Grill and Restaurant is a tiny gem nestled in between the cramped commercial establishments along Katipunan Avenue Extension. I've always noticed the red sign when passing along the stretch and always made mental notes to drop by. I finally made the time and have been back a few times now, with all visits as satisfying as the last.

Iskender kebab and mutabel

Chef Dogan's cuisine is pretty straightforward. Favoring only the freshest of meats and other ingredients to come up with hearty grilled items and chilled salads. Bread is baked on-site. The fantastic yogurt is home-made; and used in many ways as in marinades, side dishes and the kebab garlic sauce. I think Chef Dogan's is one of the few places in Manila that actually has both mutabel and babaganuc (baba ganoush) on the menu. With both dishes having the same open fire-charred eggplant as the main ingredient, the mutabel is the white mash made with yogurt, tahini and garlic; babaganuc is the one made with tomatoes, parsley and bulgur. Whereas the former has the more creamy texture, you'll notice how both dishes were meticulously prepared by hand and not whizzed through a food processor as you could still differentiate each and every ingredient in the mixes. The tebulah (tabuleh) they serve is one of the freshest I've seen in the metro, always using fluffy bright green parsley, tomatoes and cracked bulgur and tossed in lemon juice.

Babaganuc and Turkish tea with fresh mint sprig.

As compared to the heavier spiced Persian style kebabs we're used to, Chef Dogan's grilled meats taste like, well, meat. Good meat. And grilled to perfection. The ground meat kebabs have an ideal ratio of fat mixed in and produces a most succulent nosh. The lamb chops have a nice, salty/crusty char on the outsides but remain so tender. Grilled items are served with buttered rice, a simple onion and sumac salad and tomato sauce slathered pide bread. Doner kebabs are also available; those layered meats on a rotating vertical spit and then sliced and wrapped in bread. And with variants as the iskender kebab, with the sliced meats placed over thick yogurt and then slathered with a tomato sauce and a drizzle of olive oil.

Cacik

I like having some cacik as a side dish to the grilled meats; or that thick yogurt with mint and cucumber. It just provides a refreshingly tart counterbalance to the fatty meats. A spoonful every few bites does wonders. And it aids digestion too.

Cheese sticks

Funny enough, there were some not-so-Turkish things on the menu as the "Russian salad" and french fries. We ordered the cheese sticks just to see what kind of twist he did with those. And what we got were some perfectly golden brown rolls whose wrappers, I suspect, were made using thinly stretched dough. Tightly wrapped inside was some meltingly warm chedar-y white cheese and a sliver of green chili which provided just enough pleasurable heat. It's something worth ordering again for the next visit.


Chef Dogan Turkish Grill & Restaurant
221-E Katipunan Avenue, Project 4,
Quezon City, Philippines

Tel. +632 913 0764, +632 697 9852
Mobile No. +63906 3772213

Table Conversation: On Thanksgiving

Nowhere in Philippine history did Native Americans saving European pilgrims from starvation by teaching them to sow the land and fish occur. However, one of the earlier Spanish explorers who tried to convert locals to Christianity in 1521 was met by bamboo spears and cutlasses. But I digress.

Thanksgiving dinners are in essence harvest festivals. Which has evolved over the years as a time to reunite with friends and family. Even inviting new acquaintances into ones home and celebrating with copious amounts of holiday food. Turkey being native to America has long been considered as a symbol of prosperity, hence its use. However, it is not actually believed that turkey was served in the first Thanksgiving menu; in fact, venison, lobster, geese and shellfish would have been more accurate. But I digress again.

The concept of giving thanks isn't really a foreign concept for Filipinos. We hear thanks giving masses for every single blessing a family receives. A son or daughter graduating; passing the bar or board exams. Even a promotion or getting a first job entails some bit of thanks giving. But it's the concept of the Thanksgiving dinner itself that's a little bit alien. You see we have a couple of months to do that; basically called the Christmas season, wherein Christmas dinners are celebrated as early as the first week of December till the first few weeks of January to be able to meet up with all of one's friends and family. It gets hectic. And stressful. So celebrating Thanksgiving might seem a bit of overkill for a regular Filipino as it adds another two weeks to the normally already busy holiday season.



But yesterday we were invited to a friend's family's Thanksgiving dinner. Having spent most of their childhood in California they started and kept observing this practice for what it represented. The primary purpose of giving thanks for the blessings during the year and also spending time with family. Of course there was the turkey with all the fixings but everyone pitched in a dish or so ranging from boiled corn and barbecued ribs, some ridiculously good chicken adobo and callos, penoy from Pateros and classic pumpkin pie among others. A "best of" menu of sorts of the clan. Which of course we were quite honored to be sampling that time. We went home a little inebriated and a lot full; even bringing home a little plastic container of that killer adobo as a souvenir. But what we also brought home was the fuzzy feeling of being like a part of the family. Which was the cherry on top of the icing on top of that decadent chocolate cake.

On The Table: Joey de Larrazabal-Blanco

I absolutely enjoy reading Joey Blanco's Blog, 80 Breakfasts. Her bubbly enthusiasm and her love for cooking is so evident, it oozes out of her well-written pages. My admiration extends to the the fact that her blog also exudes her genuine love for her family and life itself. Reading her blog is like a magic pill one takes to drive the blues away. Let's catch a glimpse into what makes Joey tick:

Of all the things that you could write about why food?

I love food - both consuming it and preparing it, and every other step of the process that brings it from its origins to our table.

Who are the food writers who inspire you and why?

Ruth Reichl always makes me want to eat anything she writes about, plus, she makes me laugh which is very important in my book. Also, say what you will about her, I love the gutsy voluptousness of Nigella's writing. Even if she pushes her adjectives and superlatives to the very edge of decency, you can't delny her unbridled enthusiasm for food, which is something I relate to very much. Tessa Kiros' lyrical, dreamy writing in her cookbooks never fail to inspire me. I also love Anthony Bourdain. But I have a mad crush on him so perhaps mine is a very, very biased opinion. In the blog world i love to read Molly of Orangette... excellent writing, food or otherwise!

Many regional cuisines like Thai, Singapore and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Pinoy food hasn't achieved the same global acclaim?

Ah, a much debated question! there are many reasons why this could be so, and I'm no expert, but I think one of the reasons is because Filipino food is so "familial". Recipes are passed down from one generation to the next, involving more feel and estimations than exact measurement, and one family's recipe can be vastly different from another's. What happens is you have a million different versions of Adobo... so which is the standard that you will serve in a restaurant? Also, Filipinos are more likely to serve foreigners foreign food rather than Filipino food I think, a habit which may have kept our cuisine in our kitchens instead of on the world stage. That being said, I think the times are changing now and our cuisine is starting to get more of the attention it deserves in the global scene!

You have been writing you blog for over five years now, what changes have you observed in the local food scene over the years?

My goodness! I feel like a dinosaur, heehee! I think people are becoming more and more conscious of where their food comes from and what they are putting in their mouths and bodies. There is a renewed interest in preparing one's own food and enjoying a home-cooked meal. Which is all great! I love seeing younger people at the markets choosing items with care, talking to the purveyors, being curious about ingredients and ways to prepare them.

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food related television show and food magazine?

My favorite food blog? I can't name just one! I would have to say in no particular order: Chocolate and Zucchini, 101 Cookbooks, Smitten Kitchen, Market Manila, La Tartine Gourmande, Rasa Malaysia, Eating Asia... and thats just the tip of the iceberg. I love food bloggers. Yes, I'm biased that way:) Cookbook? Anything by Donna Hay or Tessa Kiros. How to be a Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson. Yes, I love pictures and flowery language... and I'm not shy to admit it! Food-related TV show? All Jamie Oliver's shows... love his enthusiasm! We should all be that excited about what we are eating! Food magazine? Donna Hay Magazine and locally, Yummy.

I know that you are a big fan of Anthony Bourdain. If for example, one day, he calls you and asks to spend the day with you. Where would you take him for breakfast, mid-morning snack, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?

I would not take him anywhere! I would keep him all to myself heehee:) Seriously, I would rather stay home with a case of wine and have him teach me how to cook properly!

Your love for cooking is very evident to anyone who reads your blog. Please tell our readers what is your signature dish?

Hmmm. That's a tough one. I am constantly learning and discovering and exploring. So I don't think I've really settled on a signature. If there is one thing I'd like to impart on my readers is that you don't have to have a signature dish... you can have several and they can keep changing and evolving over the years, just as we all change and evolve as people. I do like to think I make a not-too-shabby fabada though:)

What junk food do you love?

I don't really enjoy junk food. I am more a food-food sort of person who enjoys polishing off a crispy pata as opposed to a bag of chips ( and believe me I can finish the former before the latter). That being said, McDonald's Twister Fries have this almost unholy hold over me. Thank goodnes they don't always serve them.

Is there a food that you just can't seem to enjoy?

Chicken liver. Sorry folks, it just won't take.

Can you give three tips to aspiring food bloggers?

Write about something you love and you will never be led astray. Be honest and sincere. Have fun! Really, at the end of the day, that's all there is to it.

What are the future plans for Joey de Larrazabal-Blanco and 80 Breakfasts?

This question makes me feel like a CEO of a blue-chip company! Sorry to disappoint but I have no grand 5-year plan in the works--just more of what I enjoy which is cooking and eating and sharing this all with you through my blog. As my family grows (we are now three!) I see my cooking growing to include my little one's needs. I've already posted about baby food! I also have some writing beyond my blog planned for 2011... you'll have to stay tuned for that!

Table Suggestions: Kozui Anmitsu Redux

Kozui has been on the Tomas Morato block for several years now. Which is a lot to say as many restaurants along that stretch open and close in just a few months' time. It's a hands-on business; evident from its entire "green" look, the well edited menu and merchandising. And you can always see the owner puttering or manning the register or meeting with purveyors. Given how solid the concept of this place is you'd expect to have franchises in all the malls by now. But there are no other branches. I guess they're more keen on retaining standards; which is good. They make some perfectly crisp-fried chicken karaage here; served either on rice or in a pita wrap. The takoyaki's not bad as well. The minced spinach soup always satisfies. (And honestly, I love how they squeeze dayap or lime in the service water.) But whatever it is I eat as my main meal, I noticed I always had to have the anmitsu for dessert. It's a Japanese iced treat usually made with fruits, jellies and bean pastes atop some shaved ice. Kozui's version involves some sweet red beans, taro paste, pastel colored chewy dango (or mochi) balls and a generous swirl of soft serve green tea ice cream atop some coarse grated ice. I suppose I like the toppings more as I never really get to the bottom ice layer much. And its not so cloyingly sweet as the bitterness of the green tea and the "neutrality" of the dango help balance out the sweetness of the beans and taro paste; which is to say you probably should get your own serving. A simple, unfussy cold treat I wish I were having right now, actually.


Kozui Green Tea
258 Tomas Morato Ave.
cor. Sct. Fernandez St.,
Quezon City

Tel. (632) 413 2705

The Travelling Table: Extreme Eats

C and I were walking down a quiet street in Guangzhou when we came about a group of people milling about a food cart. I really could not see what the fuss was about but I decided to join the queue and just hope for the best. I was banking on the age-old theorem that states: Long Line = Good Food.

As I got closer I could see that what was being sold were the insides of the cow cooked in a broth. There was some tripe, blood cakes, intestines, the reticulum, parts of the heart, and many other tasty bits. After questioning my queue mate further with my limited Mandarin, I gathered that what was being served was called Niu Chang or Niu Zha. This literally means "Cow's Insides". It is a common street side snack in the South China area including Hong Kong. Hong Kong serves a much tamer version. It could be because some of the parts are not as readily available.

After waiting about fifteen minutes, I was able to get close enough to see the action first hand. The Vendor had a pair of tongs in one hand and a pair of scissors in the other. He would pick up different parts with the tong and cut little pieces from each part until you have 500 grams worth on your bowl. He then puts in a couple of scoops and broth and tops it off with a boiled potato. Add some chili sauce to taste and voila there you have it.

I have to admit to some trepidation, especially after I saw the vendor pull out a whole jaw complete with teeth and started cutting a portion of the gums into the bowl. Also, there is the hygiene concern as well. However, buoyed by the long line of people, and thinking of what Andrew Zimmern would do, I soldiered on. I was pleasantly rewarded by a delicious and clean tasting snack. The different parts tasted like they were well cleaned, not too chewy and there was no gamey or funny tastes at all. It was excellent and, I would have eaten more but visions of spending the night next to the toilet or maybe even in a Chinese hospital, convinced me not to press my luck. I then rushed back to our hotel lounge to have a couple of shots of bourbon just for insurance. Cost for this tasty snack RMB13 or P88.

Table Recipes: Moros y Cristianos

I like mongo soup. But one can only have too much of it. And so here's a nice variation to prepping the beans. Moros y cristianos is actually just red beans and rice with a more controversial name; the dark beans representing the Moors and the white rice representing the Christians. The etymology's a bit twisted but the dish itself is something simple and not too complicated to do as a weeknight meal. You can use a couple cans of red beans (or pinto or whatever type beans you like) for the recipe to cut cooking time by an hour or so. But for this recipe I prefer using dry red mongo/mung beans so I can infuse much more flavor in the hydration process.

To start the recipe I rinse the dry beans in running water and then put them in a pot filled with about 5 times as much water. So if for example I have 1.5 cups of dry beans, I add in about 7.5 cups of water. To it I add some fresh oregano (or 1.5 tsp dry) and a couple of bay leaves. I put in a pinch of baking soda to quicken the softening process a bit. A stock cube at this point would also help build flavor. Heat till boiling and then simmer for about 40 minutes. The beans will be cooked but still be a little bit firm at this point; which is what we want as there will be more cooking along the way.



In a pan I render some sliced chorizo in a tablespoon or so of olive oil. The more chorizo you use the more flavorful the end product will be. When the oil turns red I throw in a cup of chopped onions, garlic, some tomato paste, a teaspoon of dried thyme and 1.5 teaspoons of cumin. At this point I also put in a couple of labuyo chilies, but its optional if you don't like the heat. When the onions have turned translucent I throw in the drained beans and about 1.5 to 2 cups of the boiling liquid and simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, balance everything out with some apple cider or lime and salt and pepper. I also stir in some chopped cilantro at the end to keep the flavor and color bright. The end mixture should be moist and the beans just plump and done. Top this over some steaming hot white rice (or in this case, brown rice) and enjoy. Pretty hearty and nice to have during these recent rainy nights.

Food Nostalgia: New Kamameshi House

The year was 1981. A friend of my mom tells her about a new Japanese restaurant that serves delicious rice cooked in metal kettles topped with meat. My mom keeps the tip in mind and suggests it for our regular Sunday dinner. Thus began my family's love affair with Kamameshi House and more specifically, Kamameshi Rice.

The original Kamameshi House is still located near the corner of Zobel Roxas Street and South Super Highway. It started simply, in a makeshift driveway with wooden tables and benches similar to what you would find at picnic areas. Air conditioning and a second floor were added later on for comfort and to accommodate bigger groups. I have been eating at this branch for almost 30 years I have seen the restaurant through its ups and downs. It also helps that my office is located close by. This makes Kamameshi House a convenient stop for quick lunches with clients or for some take out.

The Menu of Kamameshi house goes through the whole spectrum of what any other Japanese restaurant found in Manila would serve. Aside from a very good Katsudon (P291.20), the food is generally quite decent. However, the rice totally stands out. My favorite is the Chicken Rice. (P128.80. Price when we started eating at Kamameshi House in 1981: P12!). The rice arrives steaming hot, ensconced in a wooden container with a wooden cover. Lift the cover, and revel in the aroma as it wafts through the room. This experience alone makes this dish a must try! It is good for one very hungry diner or two light eaters. Of course, as with any other type of rice dish cooked in metal pots or kettles, there is always the "tutong" or burnt rice crusts found in the bottom, to look forward to. Kamameshi's chicken rice has been at the top of my all-time favorite comfort food list. Growing up, I would always ask for the rice during bouts with the flu as it would be something that I would never refuse to eat even when I did not have an appetite. Visiting friends and relatives, who have moved abroad, also make it a point to ask to be brought to Kamameshi House as they also miss eating the rice. My own children have grown to love and look forward to eating the chicken rice paired with their Ebi Tempura.

I have tried many other versions of Kamameshi Rice in different restaurants. However, I always find myself drawn back time and again to Kamameshi House as it is only theirs that satisfies me completely.

New Kamameshi House
5787 Zobel Roxas Street.
Palanan, Makati.

Tel: (+632) 5256284.

With branches at the Quezon Memorial Circle, and Westborough, San Francisco, California.

Table Suggestions: Dessert du Jour's Gateau de Crepe

Over a lunch party at a friend's place I overheard someone say they ordered a huge crab cake about a foot across. I incredulously blurted out: "A 12 inch crab cake?! Where can I get this?!". To which I got blank stares. Apparently they were talking about a crepe cake...not crab. Curses.


But by some divine providence a box of this very crepe cake was gifted to us just a couple of days after that particular lunch. A big box. I have to say when we took the top lid off the pastry inside seemed to lack something in the aesthetics department. Not too sexy. It literally just looked like a massive 12 inch pancake about 2 inches in height. However you can't really see the love put into it until you've cut the first piece; wherein you see layer upon layer, about twenty, of super thin crepes slathered with sublime vanilla scented cream in between. Pretty laborious to make.


It's a simple concept with great results. The crepes still retained its slightly chewy texture and savory character while partially soaking in the sweet whipped cream. I can imagine this being drizzled over with a fruit syrup or coulis. Or some booze like Gran Marnier. Or maybe incorporated with some slivered nuts or grated chocolate in between and all over. Hell, I think this'll even go perfectly with maple syrup and crisp bacon slices. With all the possible permutations though, I'm not giving up on seeing a flaked crab and herbed creme fraiche version in the future. In not anything less than 12 glorious inches in diameter. But for now, the original version more than satisfies.





Dessert du Jour by Mara de la Rama
+639178116272

Food Nostalgia: Krung Thep Street Eats

I was fortunate enough to be able to spend some time living in Bangkok some almost ten years ago. And one of the great things I loved about living in Bangkok was (and still is) the inexpensive, fabulous food. Sure there are lots of nice restaurants serving Royal Thai Cuisine and the like but for everyday fare I'd be extremely happy with the street food. While you get a whole lot of guides and blogs telling you to go to places as Sukhumvit soi 38 for a whole array of street food carts, I never really felt the need to go there as I had a lot to choose from within the vicinity of my flat alone. Here are just a few examples:


Service with a smile. Freshly fried tod man pla or fish cakes. The fish paste is made on-site daily (maybe even a few times a day), infused with fresh herbs and shaped into patties. These are then served with a sweet cucumber relish.


The shorter sausages at the rear are called sai krog isaan, a slightly fermented pork and rice sausage popular in Northeast Thailand. The longer sausages are called sai ua; also made of pork and usually loaded with chilies, coriander, garlic, kaffir lime leaves and other aromatics. These are all grilled on coals and are fabulous eaten with som tam (papaya salad) and sticky rice.

Roti's also available on the streets. Super thin elastic dough whipped and stretched then fried in oil. Only its not served with the usual curry or gravy on the side. These are filled with either shredded chicken (roti gai) and a freshly cracked egg and served with a vegetable chutney on the side; or sliced bananas and an egg (roti gluai) then drizzled over the top with condensed milk. I favor the latter with the slightly crisp, slightly chewy roti on the outside with the rich, gooey bananas and soft cooked eggs on the inside.

Every block in Bangkok probably has its own cooked food market. Large covered structures with independent stalls offering their own specialties. Depicted on the top frame is a typical vendor's setup; cooking food to order. And below is an ambulant vendor selling, if I remember correctly, something like laarb or ground meat salad with herbs and toasted rice powder. Food is within reach anywhere.

Thailand has a lot of varieties of noodle dishes. From the ubiquitous pad thai to gwaeytiao ruea (boat noodles) to pad see ew (noodles fried in soy sauce), my favorite seems to be one of the most basic ones called ba mee haeng or literally "egg noodles, dry". There are as many versions of this as the number of people who make it but my favorite "aunt" who runs this shophouse not far from my old apartment satisfies the most. She makes this by blanching some springy egg noodles, bean sprouts and a handful of greens in some broth, drains them and tops with fishballs, sliced meats, you tiao and fried wonton skins then drizzles some lard on the top. I then fine tune this with some nam plaa (fish sauce), chili flakes, sugar and vinegar on the table. To this very day, whenever I'm in Bangkok, which I try to do every year, I swing by for this particular bowl.

Fruits are big in Thailand. Big and sweet. The mangoes I love, especially eaten with sweetened sticky rice cooked in coconut milk and then topped with salty crispy beans. Thai variety mangoes have this flavor and texture profile similar to what we locally refer to as "Indian" mangoes, but like three times the size. Farangs or guavas are as huge as softballs. I miss eating the slightly pickled variety called farang dong sold along with other fresh fruit on ice, typically carted along everywhere in the metropolis.

What's interesting to point out is that most vendors are one dish ventures; cooking only one type of food day in and day out, with perfected recipes and an insistence of using only fresh ingredients. It really is quick service with fine dining kitchen mentality. And with most street treats being in the Bht20 to 50 range, its exactly the type of fast food I wouldn't mind eating every day.

Food Nostalgia: Ding How Dim Sum House

Cebu is a place that has always held many good memories for me. Growing up, I spent many a summer vacation with my grandparents, aunts and uncles who lived there. It was a carefree existence spent watching movies, reading, swimming, playing basketball with the neighbors, and, of course, eating. The whole family loved to eat. Trips to the beach would never be without the famous Cebu lechon (roast pig), as well as roasted fish, kinilaw (ceviche), barbecue and a whole host of other typical beach food. When the family decided to eat out, arguments would ensue, as everyone had his or her favorite restaurant. My choice then was always Ding How Dimsum House. Up to today, if I had only one day to spend in Cebu, and I were given choice as to where I would have one meal, there would be no contest. Ding How would win every time.

Established in 1969 by the Uytengsu Family, Ding How has stood the test of time. It started with one location and it has since metamorphosed into the Harbour City Group, composed of two Harbour City Restaurants and smaller Dimsum Break outlets that offer a smaller menu and delivery service.

Various Fried Goodies

I still remember the first time I went to Ding How. I must have been five years old. My mom took me to the original branch at the intersection of Colon and Juan Luna Streets. It was my first time to witness a restaurant that had (and still has) uniformed waitresses wearing face masks who push around carts with different little plates of food. My mom called one of the ladies and ordered a plate of fried lumpia (spring rolls) for me. I watched with fascination as the lady used a pair of scissors to cut the spring rolls into bite-sized pieces. She then pulled out a plastic squeeze bottle and added a generous amount of sweet and sour sauce. Then she served the dish to me with a fork. I used to be a very finicky eater (yes, Chinkee, it's true). My parents would have a very hard time feeding me, as it would literally take hours and major drama before I would finish a meal. So here's my mom, once again forcing me to eat. I take a bite and...I was hooked. Thus began a lifelong love for Ding How, dim sum and food in general. You could say that it was my first food-related defining moment.

Shades of yesteryear: Uniformed server with steamed assortment

Fast forward to 2010. I am in Cebu to attend a family wedding at the Shangrila Mactan Resort. I make sure that I find the time to go to Harbour City, the latest incarnation of Ding How. The place has a more modern feel to it, but in essence it's still the Ding How that I remember. The menu has remained the same. The old favorites, like asado siopao (char siu bao), hakao (steamed shrimp dumplings) and other types of typical dim sum fare, are ever present and cost P50 per serving. Very reasonable, don't you think?

Spring Rolls. Notice the plastic squeeze bottles and the pair of scissors

My favorites are what I call the holy trinity. Steamed fried rice, cucumber salad and fried spring rolls. These are the three dishes that I have ordered during the countless times that I have eaten at this restaurant through the years. Steamed fried rice is very similar to the Fujian fried rice that is now available in many Chinese restaurants. Its wet and saucy consistency makes it a meal on its own. Ding How's version is unique in the sense that the rice is fried, then placed in individual ceramic bowls and steamed for a short amount of time. After steaming, the rice is topped with a rich meaty sauce. This version of fried rice is not to be missed. Very tasty indeed.

The cucumber salad is a simple dish of pickled, sliced finger-length cucumbers. I feel that this dish is quite significant to me, as it brought out my love for all types of pickles. To this day, when we go to markets or bazaars, my wife always keeps me away from the booths that sell different types of pickles and atchara (pickled vegetables), as our refrigerator is full of bottles of pickles that have been amassed during previous visits.

Steamed Fried Rice and Cucumber Salad

An order of spring rolls now look exactly like how it was always served. I love the sweet and sour sauce that comes with it. Its syrupy consistency and tangy flavor, with hints of red vinegar and, possibly, pineapple juice (?) is something that has and will always be one of my all time favorites. I take a crunchy, sticky bite and immediately I am awash with memories: having a lumpia eating contest with my cousins... reading the last letter that my Grandfather wrote while he was on a trip to Manila and was suddenly taken ill and had to be hospitalized. Sadly, he never recovered. I happened to be in Cebu at that time and he specifically singled me out in the letter by reminding me, jokingly, not to eat to at Ding How all the time because the Uytengsus might adopt me.... Taking my own wife and, subsequently, my kids to Ding How for the first time. I cannot believe how a single restaurant can evoke all these special memories.

Everyone I know always asks me about whether I would recommend Ding How to them when they visit Cebu. And to be honest, I say yes. Then they ask, "Why, is it that good?" I say it's different. Ding How has a distinct flavor that is all its own. Eat in any other dim sum place around the world and you will not find anything quite like it. Although I must admit that my opinions are a little biased given the personal history involved. It is still a place worth trying out, if only to get a unique taste of Chinese food, Cebu style, in a restaurant that has been around for the past forty one years.

Harbour City Dim Sum House has branches at the Ayala Center Cebu or at SM Cebu. Dimsum break has various Branches around the city.