Saturday, December 19, 2009

Table Suggestions: Jonesen for Mr. Jones

The Superman Burger
My Kryptonite: The Superman Burger

Remember the diner craze of the early 90s?

For those of you not old enough to remember, there was a point in time when would-be Manila restaurateurs were all taken in by the idea of the 1950s diner. It almost seemed like everyone’s mother’s uncle owned one of these faux art deco eateries of chrome and linoleum paying homage to an American era long past. At these local diners, American fast food was king and a cheeseburger with fries and vanilla milkshake were always the meal du jour. Sadly, most of these Manila diners never really got their food quite right. The word bland comes to mind.

In the end, like many other food crazes (pearl milk tea, shawarma, lechon manok come to mind), the diner concept was all but doomed to extinction…

Tater Tots to the Max 3000
Tater Tots to the Max

Fast forward to 2009. The diner may have been given a new lease on life. The Raintree Group, the same people responsible for Chelsea, Momo and M Café, just opened a restaurant called Mr. Jones. Gone are the gleaming white linoleum, overused deco design and the 50s Americana. In its place, Mr. Jones with its high ceilings, golden fabric-covered walls, sea foam green diner chairs and hot rod red booths is bring a modernized 60s hipster vibe to the old idea of a diner, making it new, more upscale and possibly even cool again.

Beef <span class=
The Overload

We started with quick, playful appetizer called Tater Tots to the Max 3000(P220). Thumb-sized, cylindrical mashed potatoes snacks are stuffed with a variety of fillings from broccoli to Jamon Serrano and Gorgonzola to walnuts. Deep-fried and dipped in a choice of Cheddar or sour cream and chives, these little 'tots' add a delectable crunch to the start of our meal.

Wanting something more Pinoy, we just had to try Mr. Jones' take on a breakfast classic, the Beef Tapa and Garlic Overload (P295). This dish is not so much a meal as it is more like a small mountain of marinated, pan-fried strips of beef topping an equally generous amount of garlic-infused rice. If that is not enough garlic flavor, chips of thinly sliced garlic garnish this seemingly boundless dish. Did we forget to mention it comes with eggs as well? In fact, there was so much food on the plate that halfway through the meal, A. had to relent--no mas.

I love my pork more than most. So for me to order the Grilled Maple Glazed Pork Chops with Applesauce (P420) was a no-brainer. Maybe it was the maple glaze, the apple and apricot sauce or the bed of spiced pumpkin puree but every bite just felt like a bombardment of sweetness. It was so sweet that I wondered if this meat dish would have been off being placed dessert menu. Where is my porky goodness, Mr. Jones?

What is a diner meal without a deliciously, heart-attack inducing cheeseburger and french fries.?On this diner staple, Mr. Jones delivers in spades with The Superman Burger(P420). A fire-grilled beef patty, topped with melted American Cheddar and crispy smoked bacon and served in between a toasty warm, sesame seed bun, this sandwich is a hamburger lover's decadent wet dream.

Mr. Jones at Greenbelt 5
Seating around Mr. Jones

Yes, it is relatively expensive. But every dish is a deliciously more than substantial meal. Sharing is more than encouraged. It's a necessity. I may not have cared much for 90s diner food craze but Mr. Jones just might have changed my opinion that good eats are possible at your local diner. Give it a try. It just might surprise you.

Much thanks to Michael Wisniewski for the photographs

Mr. Jones
Ground Level
Greenbelt 5, Makati City
Tel: (02) 501-3682,
(02) 501-3683

Email: eat@mrjonesrestaurant.com

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Table Conversation: Chef David Chang of Momofuku


I admire Chef David Chang.

Honored with accolades (which include the James Beard Award for Rising Star Chef in 2007 and Two Michelin Stars for his restaurant, Momofuku Ko in 2008) and critical praise by breaking away from the stifling system of fine dining, Chef Chang returned the focus on the food. His cuisine, a mix of reinvented East Asian favorites, has found a devout following in the restaurant-crazed city of New York. With his many appearances in mainstream media and the release of his cookbook-cum-biographical-tome, Momofuku, he has solidified his status as a gastronomic benchmark in the American food scene.

Personally speaking, what I find so endearing about Chef Chang is his self-deprecating, somewhat soft-spoken, food-obsessed nature. His pursuit in life is simple to create the best food possible with most seasonal ingredients.

His truly inspiring story is for anyone following a dream culinary or otherwise.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Table Conversation: Yummy On and Off Line

The December Issue
The December Issue

Warning: Harmless, self-serving self-promotion ahead.

The Three are rarely interviewed, partly because we are such wall flowers (yeah, right). But mostly because we have such a difficult time getting our schedules to coordinate. Luckily for us, we got our act together long enough for our interview (as part of a feature on the best food blogs of the year 2009) on Yummy.ph. To check out some of the best in the local food blogsphere, please click here.

Speaking of Yummy (this time the magazine), I wrote a short essay about learning how to bake my mother's famous cheesecake for the holidays. If you have ever had a slightly overbearing parent teach you anything, this piece is for you. To date, this was the single most difficult (because I was perpetually questioning if I should write about such a personal moment) and the easiest piece (the words flowed right out of me; my first draft was done in less than hour) for me to write. Please pick up a copy of Yummy's December issue, have a read and tell me what you think.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Table Conversation: Becoming a Regular

Deep Fried <span class=
Fried Flatbread with Black Bean Hummus

I want to be a regular.

You know that breed of restaurant customer that makes a restaurant a second home. Part personal kitchen. Part clubhouse. Being a regular means understanding the ins and outs of your chosen eatery and the restaurant staff knowing you beyond your name and credit card number.

Salmon <span class=
Salmon Kinilaw

The restaurant need not be fancy or pretentious (unless that’s what you are looking for). It should be the kind of place that speaks to you, feeds your soul as much as it feeds your stomach. It should be a place where you can retreat from the world.

Lately, business meetings and doing lunch with friends has meant spending an unusual amount of time in Quezon City. And for some unknown reason, the restaurant of choice has always been Restaurant Uno.

<span class=
Bak Kut Teh

I love Uno. This Tomas Morato staple has been at the same location for so many years that it is practically an area institution. Over the years, the restaurant has seen some improvements: a second floor and a bit of color on the walls and a menu that continues to change and evolve.

But at the core of all these changes is its philosophy of simplicity, focusing a customer's attention on the food and the joys of the meal.

Cheesecake from Restaurant <span class=
Cheesecake with an Espresso

In the past month, I have been to Restaurant Uno at least five times. From full-course meals to a scrumptious snack of cheesecake with a cup of espresso, every meal has been delightfully comforting. Admittedly, this is not a sophisticated place that provides ‘wow’ moments with every bite and the service staff may need a bit of warming up. But I always return because this restaurant is slowly becoming my home away from home. And when my meal ends, I always leave rejuvenated, with a smile on my face.

Restaurant Uno
195-C Tomas Morato cor.
Scout Funtabella Street
Quezon City
Telphone: (02) 374-0774