Table Conversation: Talking Makan with KF Seetoh

The Makan Guru: KF Seetoh

You either love him or hate him.

But once you have met KF Seetoh, you can't walk away without having an opinion. The man who created the venerated Singapore’s hawker food bible, Makansutra has been both praised and vilified almost in the same breath. But one thing is undeniable, his unbridled love for food and histories and cultures that surround the making of each delectable dish.

I am a fan. So when Spot.ph asked me to interview KF Seetoh, I was more than delighted. Currently, he shuttles between Singapore and Manila to manage his latest business venture, the Makansutra Asian Food Village. Located on the second floor of the Manila Ocean Park, this interesting dining concept is a recreation of hawker styled eating by the Manila Bay.

He was easily the best and worst interview I have ever done. The worst because of all the stories he had to tell. The best because of all the stories he had to tell. Sadly, for the Spot piece, I had a word limit. Here are some quotable quotes that didn’t make into the interview:

On What He Cooks at Home

Simplest, peasant comfort food. Plain rice porridge, pickled vegetables with fu yi, a fermented tofu paste. This is something I got from my parents, especially from my father who is from Guangzhou. I go for light things at home. But two weekends a month, we go ballistic in the kitchen at home. Cooking everything—all the Perankan dishes I cannot pronounce.

On his Role as Singapore’s Food Ambassador

Eat, talk, smile a lot and speak to people like you. I’m a storyteller. You call me an ambassador…whatever. I call myself a Makan Guru…whatever. What do I do? Tout the joy of eating, celebrate Asian food culture and tell stories. I like being a food anthropologist. Food itself is a planet. There is work. There is business. There is social. There is professional. Everything rolled up into one. So I can dabble in all these aspects of food culture.

On his Friend, Chef Anthony Bourdain

Tony [Bourdain], if you are reading this I have to tell you…I agree with you. You are not a great cook. But I like you as a damn good friend because you are like me. You are real. You will squat in the streets with me, drinking a Teh Tarik and ogle. I really respect you.

On Keeping the Weight Off

Dress well. Make sure that my clothes hang in front of my stomach. Wear jeans with certain cut. I used to eat anything. Now, I am very systematic with the way I pig out. I will pig out on things I haven’t eaten. I won’t revisit my favorites—very painful sometimes. I go to places that are off my radar, to widen my net. It can be quite fun. I walk, cycle and do basic military-style fitness routines. I try to keep up but I’m struggling.

On Pinoy Food

I think there is a lot I have not tried. I’ve been eating Filipino crappy food, so I can’t sink into it—until I had a meal at Abe. Very nice. Some of my chefs dragged me to some street-corner-back-alley restaurant that I love. You squat down on some rickety chair that’s rotting. They have all kinds of local dishes and they have best Sinigang. I don’t know where it is. One of my chefs made me the one of best Beef Kalderetas I have ever had—sensational dish. I think the Filipino food story has not been properly told. You guys are too quiet. Hello, you shouldn’t keep it to yourself.

To read my KF Seetoh interview on Spot.ph. please click here. Much thanks to Michael Wisniewski for the photo.

Makansutra Asian Food Village
2nd Floor
Manila Ocean Park
Luneta, Manila

An Invitation

Sisig Pambuc Babi

We are inviting you to dinner.

In the month of September, Table for Three, Please and a couple of our food-obsessed friends are hosting a dinner—a dinner that will celebrate what Filipino cuisine can be and should be.

Bulanglang Asan

It's a small and intimate dinner, reserved for those who truly love food. While we would like to invite everyone, there are only a few seats to go around.

Paco Ampo Paru

If you are interested and what to know more, write us at tableforthreeplease@gmail.com. All proceeds from this dinner will be going to charity.

One last thing, food snobs need not apply...

Banawe Bound: Feng Wei Wee

When the hankering for Hokkien food arises, Feng Wei Wee is usually the go-to place for some homestyle satisfaction. Unfortunately, I do not have a Hokkien mother to cook this kind of food for me. It’s a quaint little cafeteria-style restaurant with an efficient service staff. You order food by pointing to the overflowing stainless steel food warmers as with any other canteen. The main difference from any other turo-turo is the evident quality in the way the food is prepared. The meats are all looking plump and succulent. The vegetables are all gloriously fresh. The stews are all properly slow simmered. I can feel the Hokkien love. No chopsuey or viands swimming in oil here.

The past several times I've been to Feng Wei Wee, the Taiwanese owners were always around checking on customers' orders and welcoming folks. The menu on the wall lists a lot of dishes but states that if you have any special requests, (I suppose from those homesick for Hokkien food) all one had to do was ask. And never mind the Chinese string orchestra version of Guantanamera playing in the background, (which I found a bit bizarre but trippy), I was here for the food.

We had placed orders for the Scrambled Eggs with Shrimp, the Stir-fried Kailan, some Ang Sho Ba (breaded pork belly) and two bowls of steamed white rice. Sometimes the simplest food is the best food.

The eggs were perfectly cooked. Soft and cloud-like, just past runny. The shrimp were sweet and popped when you bit into it. The dish wasn’t overly seasoned and the nuance of the green onions and sesame seed oil was just perfect. It’s so easy to ruin something delicate like this just by leaving even a few seconds on the fire.

The Ang Sho Ba was a revelation in itself. Beneath that spiced, crunchy red crust was some tender meat. You can make out in the picture the moist fat-meat layers. 6 of them! You tasted more of the fresh, tender vegetable with the kailan and none of the grease. Hot bowls of rice in hand, this meal really hit the spot.

Full from lunch but still wanting to taste more we ordered two dishes as take-away for dinner (check out the cool packaging). One of them being the steamed chicken with sausage (a favorite) and some beef and radish stew - both hearty and perfect for that rainy Sunday supper.

Feng Wei Wee
82 Banawe Avenue cor. Samat Street,
Quezon City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 741 3112

Unit 2, Madison Square
229 Wilson Street
Greenhills, San Juan
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 412 5435

Behind the Kitchen Doors: Chef Giney Villar of Adarna Food and Culture

Chef Giney Villar of Adarna Food and Culture

Don't mind the hair, she's a working chef.

Being the head chef and co-owner of Adarna Food and Culture, Chef Giney Villar is always hard at work. Guided by a passion not only for food but also a deep sense of pride for all things Filipino, she can be seen cooking at the stations of her kitchen at practically every service of every day.

In a time when Filipino restaurants try to twist our cuisine by introducing new ingredients, foreign cooking techniques and different plating styles, Adarna has made the conscious choice to move the other way—exploring the rich and often forgotten recipes and techniques of the traditional Pinoy kitchen.

This former NGO book developer and writer has a mission. Besides serving the most delectable Pinoy dishes, Chef Giney hopes not only promote the food but also the vibrant culture behind the food.

To have a look behind the Kitchen Doors of Adarna Food and Culture and at the flavorful food of Chef Giney, click here. Once viewing the slide show, click on the photographs to get more information.

Franco's Note: And if you want to view more of our photo essays. Please click here.

Thank you to Erik Lacson for the lovely photos. Many thanks to Chef Giney Villar and the staff of Adarna Food and Culture.

Adarna Food and Culture
119 Kalayaan Avenue
Diliman, Quezon City
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 926 8712

Table Recipes: Apples on the Upside

The End Result: My Tart Tatin

I can’t say I’m much of a baker partly because I was never really into sweets; also partly because I’m not too into precision with my cooking either. However, if there were something I could probably pull off baking it would be pie. I love pies. I learned how to bake them in my early teens, getting tired waiting for my mom’s next batch of apple or banana pies. Which also explained my then 36 inch waistline.

It’s been years since I last made pie though, so I figured I’d try making a Tart Tatin one Sunday afternoon. Yeah it’s not exactly pie but it's close. And despite the fancy sounding French name, it’s actually quite a rustic dessert, simple and forgiving to make.

from top left, clockwise:
Beautiful Granny Smiths, Making the Butter Dough,
Heating Up the Butter, Caramelizing the Apples

About a stick of butter is mixed into a mixture of flour, powdered sugar and salt; with an egg mixed in at the end to bind everything together. The result is this rich, pale yellow dough. A little dense and oozing with butter.

Next, I dump another stick of butter and lots of sugar into a pan over medium heat, constantly watching over so as not to burn.

I peel, core and quarter some neon green Granny Smith apples and arrange it pinwheel style in the pan over the now golden colored caramel. Turn the apples over after a few minutes and then cover with the rolled out pastry. I tuck in some extra dough on the sides of the pan because, honestly, who doesn’t love crust? Stick the whole pan in the oven for about 25 minutes and that’s that.

After resting for 15 minutes I take a plate over the pan and then quickly invert. The key to this step is not to hesitate unless you want the tart all over yourself or all over the floor. The result was a relative success. The glistening caramel macerated apples embedded quite nicely in the crumbly shortbread-like crust. Not overly sweet, thanks to the Granny Smith’s acidity but definitely decadent with all the butter. Fantastic served warm with maybe a coffee or tea.

Given that I used a very basic recipe, I thought of several tweaks for the next versions already; using different apples or flambéing some calvados in the caramel, for example. But for the moment, I think I’m Tart Tatin-ed out…

Table Conversation: Missing the Secret Sauce

My only photo of my fave Cafe Bola dish. RIP, sour cream paprika sauce!

It annoys me no end that Cafe Bola phased out my absolute favorite sauce: Sour Cream Paprika. I used to order their Carambola Pasta (spaghetti noodles with three kinds of meatballs—seafood, chicken, and beef) every single time I was at their restaurant.

Months ago, I got a seat at Cafe Bola, and scanned the menu (which was more out of habit than necessity—I knew exactly what I wanted). I panicked when I couldn't find my sauce listed anywhere. When I asked about it, I was told that they no longer served this sauce, and were going for a more Filipino menu. I was terribly, terribly disappointed, and spent the rest of my day under a cloud, heartbroken that I was never again going to get a taste of this simple yet utterly divine dish.

I would endeavor to recreate this sauce at home, but I am no superstar in the kitchen (or just haven't had the time to attempt it). I wouldn't know where to begin. Help! The craving is unbearable.

Table Conversation: Rogue's Gallery

The Three with Neal Oshima

We rarely get our photo taken.

No, strike that. We NEVER get our photos taken, especially not together. So when Rogue Magazine asked to be part of their photo feature on food bloggers, we were thrown into a bit of a quandary. We started as an anonymous blog and we have grown to enjoy our anonymity. And for many reasons, we want to keep it that way. The Three initially agreed that a photo shoot might not be such a good idea.

Then, Rogue informed us that Neal Oshima was going to be our photographer. Needless to say, we simply asked: where and when?

Included in the photo feature are some amazing bloggers: Ivan Henares, Lori Baltazar, Joey De Larrazabal-Blanco, Spanky Enriquez, Anton Diaz and Market Man.

To check out the end result, please pick up a copy of the August issue of Rogue.

Much thanks to Neal Oshima, Clifton Sawit and the editorial staff of Rogue Magazine. You made us food geeks sound and look so much cooler than we really are.

The Travelling Table: Porcine Pilgrimage

Babi Guling for Ibu Oka

In a most recent trip to Bali, I made it chief objective to get my hands on some babi guling (roast whole pig). Ironic since I’m not that big of a lechon fan. But since every guide and Bali-blog seemed to have mentioned, if not unanimously raved about it, I decided to pursue this pig in hopes of enlightenment. I tell our driver/guide we wanted to go to Ibu Oka and I saw a spark in his eyeballs. His mouth watered as he explained how Ibu Oka was considered the benchmark of babi guling. Tourists and locals alike come up in literal droves from the time it opens around 11am till all the pigs roasted for the day, generally a handful, are devoured. You’re lucky if they’re still serving by 2pm.

Scenes from Ibu Oka

From the shorelines of Seminyak, an hour and a half leisurely road trip upcountry to Ubud was taken, carefully planned so as to hit the place right before noon. The atmosphere was quite frantic upon arrival. A van full of Japanese tourists arrived amidst the already spilling establishment. Hungry families waited as the frenzied staff prepared orders production line style. Servers skillfully tiptoed over denizens with several plates in hand. Some people were literally eating on the floor. What restaurant owners would give to have a “regular” day such as this. We get a front row seat near the action at the counter. Our orders come relatively quick; served on woven rattan chargers lined with waxed paper.

Look for the Signs

The pigs, prepped with a secret mix of herbs and spices at the crack of dawn, are spit roasted to perfection. The evenly blistered skin incredibly crisp, and the meat indescribably succulent. A “regular” serving is composed of a generous portion of the crackling and flesh, piled over steaming white rice, with sides of equally crunchy innards (chicharon bituka), blood sausage and the token vegetable dish (containing kalachuchi leaves, as the guide tells us. Or there may have been communication breakdown somewhere but it did taste like it). All doused with their signature fiery sambal that cut through all the grease. It was not so much as the excellent pig in itself but the way it was served that did it for me. There was just the right amount of different elements resulting in a perfectly balanced meal. (Tears are welling up my eyes as I write this.) The bill per plate came out to about IDR36,000 (P175) including an ice-cold bottle of Teh Botol; definitely a small price to pay for pig nirvana.

Ibu Oka
Jalan Tegal Sari No 2
Ubud, Bali
Indonesia
Telephone: (6236) 976 345

On The Table: Chef Tonyboy Escalante

When it comes to his cuisine, Chef Tonyboy Escalante considers himself a "safe" chef. However, one could make the case that his greatest gamble has also become his most spectacular success. At the time, many would have considered opening a fine dining restaurant in a secluded barangay in Cavite ludicrous. But seven years later, Antonio's is now regarded one of the best restaurants in Asia. Early next year, this former flight steward is considering another career shift—from awarding-winning chef and restaurateur to boutique hotel owner.

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

No one. I love cooking. But I think the more important thing is that I love to entertain. If you are great cook but hate to entertain, I don’t think it will work. [Cooking and entertaining] must go hand-in-hand. What is my greatest influence in my style of cooking? My travels and my personality.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

The French Laundry Cookbook. But I don’t cook the same [dishes]. I love the book and the chef, Thomas Keller. I’ve been to his restaurant in Napa Valley. I love his restaurant and what they do there.

What was your first job in the food/service business?

I was a flight steward. I quit [in my third year of] dentistry then I became a steward [with Philippine Airlines] just to prove to my dad that I would do something.

How and when did you decide to open Antonio’s?

Before I left Australia [for culinary school], I looked for property [in Tagaytay] already. I really wanted a restaurant outside of Manila. I hate competition. I only want to compete with myself. Sonya Garcia [of Sonya’s Garden] is good friend of mine. The first time I went her place, I told her that I wanted to live a life like hers.

After seven years, there are still a lot of things to do here [in Antonio’s]. Maybe because of my artistic nature, I cannot stop developing and building little by little.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Antonio’s?

My steak. I love the way I do my steak. And my fresh salad. Before [opening] my restaurant and even before I left of Australia [for culinary school], I was working on my gardening and delivering [produce]. And through the years, [my gardening] has developed by getting ideas from other farmers and sharing ideas also.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Balthazar in New York. It was memorable because it is the way I cook. The seafood in Tel Aviv [the capital of Israel]. I can’t remember the name of the restaurant but food was good. I was surprised. Even the nightlife in Tela Aviv was great. We went into a club at 11pm and left at 3pm the next day.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

This is really hard. I hate this question. Can I pass on this? *

What junk food do you love?

Chippy or Wow! Mani. I can eat jars and jars of peanuts.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

I can eat anything. I can even eat the head of the goat. [After some consideration] Ok, maybe not snake, crocodile, bayawak [monitor lizard] and dog meat. I don’t like exotic meats.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

To open a resort. After seven years of Antonio’s, my people are so good that they can teach my newer people. I now have more time for myself. So I decide to open a boutique resort with architect, Teng Bustos. I think this is the right time to do it. I’m really excited about this [project].

*Chef Escalante did answer, off the record. Email me if you are interested to know what he said.

Antonio's
Barangay Neogan
Tagaytay City, Cavite
Telephone: (046) 413 0975 or (046) 413 1054
Celphone: (0917) 899 2866
Email: antoniosfarm@yahoo.com