Pinoy Street Treats: Fishballs

Bubble, bubble, oil and trouble: Fishballs, squid balls, and kikiam in a sea of artery-clogging oil

I remember being thrilled when, years ago, my mom came home from a trip to the supermarket with a bag of frozen fishballs. It meant two things: First, I didn't have to escape from Father Dear's watchful (paranoid) eye whenever I was hankering for these fishy discs; and second, I could have fishballs whenever I wanted—I needn't get in line (and I use the term "line" loosely here) to spear five pesos' worth of fishballs onto a barbecue stick. (For the uninitiated, it's just fifty centavos a pop.) Bonus: No more annoying tusok-tusok jokes from my guy friends!

And so I eagerly waited as the white wonders, floating in all that Baguio oil, slowly turned slightly golden. We scooped them onto plates, covered in paper towels, then allowed them to cool. Then, spearing a couple of pieces with a silver fork, I dipped them in some store-bought sweet and sour sauce, fully expecting to satisfy my fish ball craving.

Jars of sweet and/or spicy sauce, and vinegar with onions and chili for dipping

Alas, my hygienic, oil-drained, home-cooked version of fishballs couldn't even come close to the questionable ones being peddled on the streets. It was then that I realized: Overused cooking oil, splintery barbecue sticks, and sweet/spicy sauce in reused bottles—made more flavorful by that glorious faux pas called double dipping—complete the whole fishball experience. And for that, I'll risk getting hepatitis, again and again.

Pinoy Street Treats: Taho

The early morning snack

There really is nothing like taho.

There are many streetside snacks that I love: from icy tsokolate and mango ‘dirty’ ice cream to double-dipped, sweet and spicy fishballs. However, nothing warms this food lover’s heart and conjures sweet syrupy childhood memories more vividly than a warm cup of taho. I'm not talking about the pasteurized and antiseptic variety served in some of the finer restaurants in Manila. What we are discussing is the on-the-street, sucking-on-jeepney-exhaust and served-in-a-dubious-plastic-cup-from-a-huge-metal-can version of this much loved streetside treat.

While this snack seems to be a deceptively simple mix of tofu, syrup and sago, the effort that goes into delivering this old time favorite is literally back-breaking work.

Meet Ron, my taho vendor du jour. When I met up with Ron that morning, he enthusiastically explains that he has been plying his daily route in and around a local university even before the crack of dawn. Ron claims to enjoy this difficult profession since he inherited it from his father. From purchasing raw ingredients, to cooking and prepping and finally carrying of his pair of heavy stainless steel cans from one customer to the next, Ron says it’s still a stable living and besides, he enjoys chatting up customers and watching them savor their cups of taho.

After a short chat, I ask Ron for a cup. First, he flips open the lid of the larger and heavier container. Inside is a glacier of silken tofu floating in a milky pool. With a large flat spoon, he skims away some of excess liquid, gracefully slices away some of the white soft tofu and, with one quick motion, empties it into a waiting cup.

Floating Pearls

He opens the second, smaller bucket. The container is divided into multiple compartments. One section holds the sago or tiny tapioca pearls. Bought at the local market the day before, each pearl is boiled in simmering water, transforming slowly into plump, translucent spheres. Beside the sago is a dark sugary syrup called arnibal. While both the sago and tofu are bought from an outside supplier, this sweet dark caramel is what makes each taho unique. Ron’s arnibal starts with the melting of panocha, a brown palm sugar. Mixed with the right proportion of water, this sugary solid turns into deep amber syrup. What makes his concoction unusual is his addition of sweet langka or jackfruit in the mix–or if langka is not in season, he steeps an aromatic infusion of pandan leaves. With a miniature ladle, he spoons a generous serving of both the sago and the arnibal.

He hands me my taho and I take my first sip. Initially, a rush of sweetness overwhelms my sense of taste. But once the flavor settles, the lovely complexity of this ‘drink’ comes to the forefront. There is a depth of flavors to the dark caramel syrup: sweet hints of nuttiness and the underlying flavor and aroma of langka in the background. While the tofu and sago don’t contribute a whole lot of flavor, they do create an unusual textural sensation. Chunks of silken tofu fill the mouth: warm, soft and almost custard-like. As I begin to swallow, the tofu falls apart and quickly breaks away–leaving behind chewy, little balls of tapioca to playfully bite into.

Licking the remaining syrup from my lips and still wanting more, I ask Ron for another. He smiles and starts filling my cup.

Franco's Note: I interviewed Bob Blumer, host and central 'victim' of Glutton for Punishment. I will admit that prior to this interview, I had only occasionally glanced at his show. But after having done a lot of 'research' and sitting down with the man himself, I have to say–It can be masochistic. It can be crazy. And sometimes it can be just plain deadly. But I would never call it boring. This show is just fun television viewing. Click here to read my interview.

Table Suggestions: Pupcakes by Sonja

Puppy's Delights

Our bully has turned one.

While Table for Three, Please has always prided itself in presenting the best from the gastronomical world, for this post, we are going to the dogs—in a scrumptious (for canines, at least) way. Last week, our delightful French Bulldog, Bruce, finally turned one. So A. and I decided that we would try to make the day special for him. Usually, he is on a very regimented diet. Bulldogs are not the most active of animals and can easily become obese. But for his birthday, we decide to give a treat, his very own doggie-friendly cupcake or, as we like calling it, a Pupcake.

Enter Sonja Ocampo of Cupcakes by Sonja. Normally, Sonja's customers are human. But after a little bit of convincing, she agrees to take on the challenge. Bruce's birthday arrives and I am on my way to Sonja's cupcake mecca. For the record, I'm expecting one or maybe two pupcakes but instead I am surprised by boxes filled with four different kinds of pupcakes: Party Pupcake, Banana Pupcake with Mad Sock, Carrot Pupcake and Pupcake with Cream Cheese Frosting.

I obviously cannot describe to you how they taste. But if I were to go by how Bruce gobbles them down, I would say that this little experiment was a 'doggielicious' success. On his birthday, Bruce was one very lucky dog.

Much thanks to Sonja for making Bruce the happiest birthday bulldog.

In the interest of full disclosure, Sonja refused payment. Because this was a test batch, she could not insure complete doggie satisfaction. This post is absolutely unsolicited.

Cupcakes by Sonja
1C03 Serendra Piazza
Bonifacio Global City
Taguig City
Telephone: (02) 8560308
Email:cupcakesbysonja@gmail.com

Pinoy Street Treats: Banana-que

Consisting of only bananas, brown sugar and oil, the banana-que definitely falls within the 5-and-below-ingredients-wonders.

Obsessed, I chatted with a couple home cooks and vendors over the past weeks and what I found interesting was that they all told me the same thing, to make a good banana-que one slow-fries semi-ripe plantain bananas over medium heat for a few good minutes. This step is crucial for the bananas to develop a slightly harder but still pliable exterior, keeping the oil out and allowing the insides to steam-cook. (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve bitten into a seemingly perfect banana-que only to find the insides unpleasantly hard and crumbly. Results of rushing the slow-fry process? Or maybe using unripe plantains?). Brown sugar or panutsa (raw sugar) is then mixed towards the end to coat the bananas, stirring everything constantly to prevent or minimize burning. Skewer, drain and cool on banana leaf or rack. Done.

Given how simple the recipe is, I still wouldn’t make this at home though. One would need at least a whole bunch of bananas to maximize the cooking oil you need for deep-frying. Cleanup of burnt sugar stuck in the pan can also be a real pain. It’s just too much work for an afternoon snack. Plus frying two or three bananas for yourself can be quite a sad picture. Therefore I’d choose to buy a stick (of three bananas on average) for P10 anytime over cooking it myself. It’s just way more efficient; I crave banana-que, I get banana-que. (Probably the real reason though is that the few times I tried making these, the end product always came out lacking. It just didn’t have that…”street factor”.)

This afternoon I drop by my favorite nondescript banana-que stand to take home a few sticks for “photographing” (i.e. eating). I get the bananas seconds after it was taken out of the hot oil and when I got home, it was just the perfect temperature for tucking into. If I had eaten it right after frying, I would’ve singed my mouth with both the molten sugar and the steaming insides. Not to mention the fact that the candy coating needed time to cool down and crisp up. So warm was the way to go. I shoot fast. After a few agonizing minutes I was finally rewarded with a bite and was not disappointed. Thank God for people who fry bananas to perfection for a living.

As for my gauge for a good ‘que: there should be 3 identifiable textures. First, the crunchy caramelized sugar coating, second, the pleasantly toothy banana exterior and finally the tender, almost gooey, amber colored flesh, all in one bite. The thicker the sugar coating, the better, I say. And while “interesting” versions of the banana-que has appeared of late gussied up with sesame seeds, scoops of ice cream, crème anglaise and, heaven forbid, even transformed into a pastry, my favorite version will always be the one on a bamboo skewer.

On the Table: Malou Fores

Malou Fores is the proud proprietor of the diminutive but wildly popular restaurant called Mamou. At eight years old, she understood the joys and wonders of the kitchen after baking her first tray of chocolate brownies. Years later, married and raising her son, she would share her culinary passion with her family and friends, preparing casually intimate meals–which would eventually lead to the opening her current (and first) restaurant venture. An avid badminton player, scuba diver and world traveler, Malou is always trying to improve the dining experience at Mamou with the hope of eventually expanding to other locations in Metro Manila.

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

Tough question because there are quite a bit of them. For baking, it would be my sister, Annie. She was my first baking teacher. Professionally, I like Mario Batali and Tonyboy Escalante. My husband, I think. I really started cooking for him.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

Believe it or not, Paris in a Basket. I don’t have much French dishes on my menu but I would say Paris in a Basket inspires me because the pictures and recipes are very simple. It is uncomplicated French cuisine. Another book would be Mario Batali’s cookbook.

What was your first job in the food business?

I use to supply this quaint store at the old Magallanes Commercial Center named The Little Farm. I supplied them with my Mini Banana Loaf and Mini Kalamansi Loaf.

How and when did you decide to open Mamou?

As many know, I co-own Blue Kitchen. I have always been the food business–I’d say 14 years now. I would always have friends and family for dinner. Just home cooking, nothing fancy. No formal dinners. My friends would tell me, ”Malou, why don’t you open a restaurant? We don’t want to wait to be invited to your place.” My son was in high school and didn’t need my time. For me, I needed to keep myself busier from what I was doing already. I said maybe [I should open] my dream restaurant, where there are no rules. I would like to serve home cooking, the way I would cook at home. When I turned 40, [I said] I’m going to go for this. Because I know when I turn 50 or 60, I want to look back and say I did it.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Mamou?

It’s not on my menu yet, Sinigang na Baboy. I will be putting it on the menu soon. I don’t know how to plate it yet. I really love meat. I’m a carnivore. It’s very apparent [from my menu].

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

At Lupa in New York City, I had a pasta dish that I cannot forget, Bottarga with Chickpeas. In fact, I have recently added this to my menu and I believe this has become a favorite of some regular clients.

Another meal was at Antonio's in Tagaytay. Frozen Mojito for cocktails. Beef Tartare with toast to start, followed by Crispy Lamb Ribs, served with egg noodles topped with the freshest coriander leaves and a hoisin dressing. And for dessert, a scoop of Spicy Dark Chocolate Ice Cream.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Tonyboy Escalante’s restaurant, Antonio’s. Hands down.

What junk food do you love?

Chicharon from Cebu. It’s place in Cebu. I buy it in an outlet near the market. I love raw fish bagoong with kalamansi. I eat it with rice.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

No, I’m the type to try everything. [After some consideration] Yes, they are three: monkey brains, dog and horse meat.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I’m hoping to open another Mamou, eventually. I’m still waiting for Rockwell. Maybe 2010. A restaurant with a ceiling [Mamou has an exposed ceiling]. I would like to work with somebody who is going to do a Filipino cookbook where we can travel the Philippines.

Mamou: A Home Kitchen
Unit 1C-15
Ground Floor, Serendra
Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City
Telephone: (02) 856 3569
Celephone: (0917) 818 2668
Email: mamou@info.com.ph

Table Suggestions: Dessert Break at MoMo Food + Drink

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Cheesecake

I’m stuck in Manila.

I rarely I find my self in the city of Manila. So when the opportunity to explore the flavors of the oldest part of the city presents itself, I grab it. Sadly, I’m in between meetings and I only have time for a cup of coffee and a couple of desserts.

I’m fine with that. Besides as a friend of mine would say, dessert should always come first.

I’m headed to Robinson’s Manila and a little place called MoMo Food+Drink. Brought to you by the same people who created M Café, MoMo is corner café in the new wing of the mall. With its high exposed ceiling and wall-to-wall glass windows, this eatery exudes a New Yorkesque, lofty feel–a stand out in Manila’s urban jungle.

MoMo Food+Drink reminds me of something. I look at the menu on the wall and I realize it feels like Chelsea Café and Market–an array of comfort foods: brunch items, pastas, pizzas, sandwich, hot and cold drinks.

Smores Bar

We order two desserts. The first is a play on a favorite of mine. Momo’s Smore Bar (P55) is breakdown of an American campsite snack. A chocolate brownie is topped with a viscous marshmallow sauce then finished with a tiny graham cracker square. This dessert excites me but something is lost in translation. All classic flavors are all there but once you bite into the bar ,it becomes layers upon layers of soft. A Smorish mush.

The Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Cheesecake (P115) was thankfully another story. The only thing I love more than a Chocolate Chip Cookie is a large scoop of Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Ice Cream and this dessert is as close to that one can get. Shaped like a lovely, oversized cookie sandwich, this cheesecake’s tastes deliver on its visual promise. Light, lovingly layered in flavors yet straightforward and scrumptious, I could have eaten two more by myself.

A hit and a miss. Yet my experience at MoMo Food+Drink was like a relaxing oasis in a sea of concrete. Would I return? Absolutely. I’m looking forward to getting stuck in Manila again.

MoMo: Food + Drink
Robinsons Place Manila
Manila Midtown Wing
Telephone : (02) 567 3417

The Travelling Table: Lunch at Bo Innovation

Ox Tail Xiao Lung Bao

I’m in Hong Kong and I’m feeling a bit daring.

With his long, jet black hair, tattooed arms and his cutaway chef’s jacket, one could easily mistake Chef Alvin Leung for a retired rock star rather than what he is known for today, the celebrated head chef and owner of Bo Innovation.

After enthralling dinner guests at his private home, Chef Leung had an inspiration and decided to open a private kitchen. Private kitchens are a long-standing trend in China in which amateur cooks open their kitchens and homes to paying guests. This way, these would-be restaurateurs avoid not only the pitfalls of astronomical rental prices but also expensive government fees. In 2003, Bo Innoseki was born. Five years on and both Chef Leung and his idea for a private kitchen have grown and evolved.

Black Truffle Cheung Fun

Once, Bo Innoseki. Now, Bo Innovation. The once private is now a sleekly designed, 58 seater restaurant in Hong Kong’s Wai Chai district. And after only five years, Chef Leung’s idea was awarded two stars by the inaugural edition of the Hong Kong/Macau Michelin Guide--one of only seven restaurants in the guide who can claim such an honor. Here is an interesting note. In the history of the Michelin Guide, there have only been two restaurants helmed by (mostly) self-taught chefs that have won stars: one is Chef Leung and the other is no less than Chef Heston Blumenthal of the revered Fat Duck. An amazing achievement by Chef Leung, an amateur cook whose day job was acoustics engineering.

The lunch begins with a choice of dim sum dishes, a luxurious twist on two tea house favorites. Normally served with a stuffing of pork, Bo Innovation takes a different approach to the 'soupy' dumpling. Their Xiao Lung Bao is stuffed with a filling of shredded oxtail, taking this common dish to a completely new direction. If that was not enough, each dumpling is topped with a dollop of extravagant Arvuga caviar. The hawker stand staple Cheung Fun is given its own improvement with the addition of black truffles. An appealing yet far too subtle flavor.

Roasted Duck Char Siu

Next is the main course. Char siu is a dish of barbeque pork. But at Bo Innovation, this common roast is made with succulent duck. Served on a bed of thinly sliced bamboo shoots coated in pesto sauce, theses cuts of Roasted Duck Char Siu are covered in sweet barbeque sauce and topped with a tangy coulis of pureed mandarin.

To close this delicious meal are two desserts du jour. The first dessert is a little cornet topped with a scoop of Kumquat and Butterscotch Ice Cream. Light and refreshing, one wishes there was more. And finally to cap the meal, an interesting Black Sesame Drink infused with soda, served in shot glass and sipped with a little, black straw. Savor it slowly because it disappears quickly.

Black Sesame Dessert Drink

Bo Innovations has been touted the El Bulli of Asia. While Chef Leung has created a sophisticated dining experience at Bo Innovation, I honestly can’t agree or disagree with that claim. However, what I do understand from this little taste is that Chef Leung has taken his unbridled passion for Chinese cuisine and turned it on it head, creating a menu is not only intriguing but delightful delicious as well. I have only scratched the surface of what is possible at Bo Innovation. A more extensive return meal is a not option, it is a necessity.

Bo Innovations
Shop 13
2nd Floor J Residence,
60 Johnston Road, Wan Chai
Hong Kong
(Private life entrance on 18 Ship Street)
Telephone: (852) 285 0837
Email: dine@boinnovation.com
Website: www.boinnovation.com

Table Conversation: A Delicious Day in Kuala Lumpur

It was a glorious day.

Right after our trip to Penang, A and I decided to spend the weekend in Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur. Not wanting to miss an opportunity to fully explore the flavors of this street food haven, I asked for help. And who else could I possibly turn to than that dynamic duo of Eating Asia, Robin Eckhardt and David Hagerman?

Robin generously provided me with a wealth of dining suggestions. The problem? I only had one day to do this delectable food adventure. Tiring? Yes. But to savor some of the most amazing food in Asia, I would have climbed K2.

To read more about my excellent foodie weekend in Kuala Lumpur, pick up the July issue of Yummy magazine.

Many thanks to Robyn and Dave of Eating Asia for being the best guides a traveling foodie could ask for.