Tuesday, June 30, 2009

The Luxe: Miloholics Anonymous

Miloholic's Drug of Choice
Miloholic's Drug of Choice

After seeing what Franco and Grace wrote about, I'm almost embarrassed to admit what I indulge in. It isn't a four-figure steak in a fancy restaurant. Or a truffle-infused burger. Or a slice of cake that costs about a day's pay.

It's Milo.

Yes, you read right. Milo. That good ol' chocolate powder that we grew up with. I sometimes do use it for its intended purpose—mixing it with milk (low-fat, thank you very much) and drinking it before heading off to the gym (ha!). But I have a Milo-drinking ritual which I strictly follow:

I rip open one of those little green single-serve packets, dunk all the contents in a glass of milk, and stir. I don't allow all the chocolate bits to melt into the white liquid—I leave a thin layer floating on top of my milk. I scoop up the partly crunchy, partly gooey mixture with a spoon. I put the Milo, moistened with some milk, into my mouth and allow it to melt on my tongue a little before I chew. I down my chocolate milk.

More often than drinking it though, I have Milo as a snack. I thought it was normal behavior until a co-worker gave me a strange look when I talked about it. I brought a packet for him the next day and insisted that he put a spoonful in his mouth. "Well?" I asked. "It tastes like..." he began, with a hint of fear in his eyes, "...Milo."

So I wasn't able to convert him, but that didn't and hasn't deterred me from indulging in what said co-worker deemed a weird snack. Milo is my guilty pleasure on late nights when everyone is asleep and my sweet tooth starts acting up. I'd sneak into the kitchen, scoop some Milo into a bowl, and feast on spoonfuls of the brown powder while watching The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency (another—far worse—guilty pleasure). I have a Milo-eating system as well, one that involves pressing it into the back of a spoon, taking little licks until the powder turns into something that's half solid-half liquid, and then licking the whole thing off. Interspersed between these licks, I gobble down spoonfuls of the stuff.

And while I could probably convince myself into thinking that Milo is really, truly good for me, and that I could have as much of it as I want ("Milo Everyday," right?), there's no escaping one simple fact: It's frickin' chocolate.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

The Luxe : Lacking in Lusso

Dining at Lusso
from top left, clockwise
Strawberry Trifle, Luxe Mac and Cheese, Lusso Burger and Asiago Fries

The idea of luxury and excess is considered vulgar during these times of financial turmoil. Conspicuous consumption that was the norm just a few years ago is now taboo. So how do we now indulge in our favorite past times without feeling guilty or offending other people?

Lusso, Margarita Fores’ new restaurant concept in Greenbelt 5 which also means “luxe” in Italian, is what she likes to tout as luxury with a conscience. The place invokes Old World opulence with its ornate Murano Chandelier from the old Manila Peninsula mixed with mid-century furniture our grandparents had during their heyday. This somewhat yin-yang theme carries through their food selection which is rich and opulent yet their prices are far from intimidating.

The menu is chockfull of what we can call “comfort food”, diner-style selections of burgers, French fries, macaroni and cheese, and shepherd’s pies but done with luxurious touches. We zeroed in on four things that stood out in the menu.

We started off with Asiago Fries with Truffle-Infused Salt (P195). Huge potato wedges hand-cut with the skin on, the appetizer is served in an elegant white ensemble topped with a mild asiago. Hearty but lacks punch, the French fries, although topped with high quality cheese and fancy salt, were forgettable and needed more flavor. In fact, we had to ask for an extra serving of the truffle-infused salt.

Next came the much-publicized Demi-Pound Lusso Burger (P595)–US Angus Beef with foie gras topped with prosecco onions and served with a cambozola broth. Being self-confessed burger and foie gras junkies, the thought of melding our two favorites was almost too perfect. I asked for the burger to be cooked medium but it came very red. The foie gras core, though, melted away into oblivion and was hardly a factor in the experience. Cambozola broth was a mystery. Confused as to whether it was a burger topping or a dip for the fries, the idea, although seemingly ingenious, was lost in translation. Of note is the bread, crusty to the bite but soft and chewy inside. I can just imagine the bread to be perfect with freshly churned French butter.

My companion ordered the Macaroni and Cheese with Pancetta and Three Cheeses (P365). A staple for young Americans and budget-conscious college students, this dish is THE comfort food. Expecting a dish that conjured childhood memories, Lusso’s version was milky, mild and tempered. The pancetta was only present in between bites.

We ended the meal with the Strawberry Trifle (P250) which is sadly another blase affair. Made with what seems to be just ordinary whipped cream, traditional English trifles are made of rich pudding and very tasty pound cake. Lusso’s trifle was similar to our crème de fruta. No visions of English country houses and jodhpurs here.

What saved our night was the bubbly and lively conversation. Lusso is a place where one hopes to be beamed into a world of affluence and mirth only to be brought straight back to reality.

Much thanks to Grace Velasco of Divasoria

Lusso
G/F Greenbelt 5
Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village
Makati City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 756 5893

Thursday, June 18, 2009

The Luxe: Tastes to Textures

Beef <span class=
Beef Tartare from I'm Angus Steakhouse

What is the definition of luxury?

The answer can be somewhat fluid, to say the least. Ask 100 people on the street what luxury means and you will probably get 100 different answers. While definitions may vary from latest S Class Mercedes Benz to a pair of Christian Louboutin heels, they all return to the idea of value, what a person values in their life. Given that I write for this blog, it should come as no surprise that my response would have something to do with food.

Let me dispel a notion. I enjoy the juicy goodness of thick, 'black and blue' ribeye or the rich, fatty flavor of pan-seared goose liver like any other person would. But for me, the meaning of luxury has nothing to do with price. It is all about the experience of food.

Take for example, having lunch with a fellow food lover at I'm Angus Steakhouse and not ordering a steak. While Lori had a hefty ax of pork, I had a somewhat unusual order of Beef Tartare (P720). While many would find it repugnant to eat this dish of raw minced beef mixed with the pungent, tart flavors of onions and capers and aggressively seasoned with ground black pepper and Worcestershire sauce, I reveled in tucking into it. Over a hearty conversation about family, friends and of course food, I savored every mouthful. Eating your beef raw was a very primal, textural experience.

<span class=
Pancit Musiko from Adarna Food and Culture

I am a noodle fanatic. So as the days get cold and wet, I am always hankering to slurp a hot steaming bowl of noodles. I crave for my cold soba. I love my steaming ramen soup. I adore my pho. But my discovery of an Ilocano noodle dish might eclipse them all. They call it Pancit Musiko(P150). Served at Adarna Food and Culture, this dish is traditionally served to marching bands during local fiestas–thus, the name. These noodles are the definition of slow-cooking. It starts with a rich broth--enriched with the flavors from slowly (over a day, I am told) stewed pieces of pork and chicken and colored a deep reddish hue with achuete. Next, stubby custom-made egg noodles are lovingly nurtured into the broth. Cooking the noodles is a process of both give and take. While the noodles imbibe the taste of the soup, its starches help thicken the broth. Why is this dish a luxury? Simple because in this world of quick and immediate gratification, very few cook food like this anymore.


Pistachio on Butter Pecan Ice Cream from Sebastian's

How about licking up a scoop or two of my favorite ice cream, Sebastian's? I'm a nutty kind of guy. So having a scoop of Pistachio on top of Butter Pecan is not a difficult decision (P150 for a double scoop). The two flavors are distinct–a pale green, all-natural scoop decadently peppered with toasty pistachios and a smooth, buttery serving chockfull of crunchy pecans. And yet they are similar in their uncompromising creaminess and their rich depth of flavors and textures. Did I fail to mention the size of these scoops? They are so hefty that I could hear my waffle cone crack under the strain of their weight. Consuming the double scoop quickly was luxurious necessity that I would have no problems fulfilling.

So you can keep your It bags and fancy, Swiss watches, I’m off to savor all the wonderful tastes and textures the food world has to offer. Care to come along?

Thanks to Erik Lacson for the amazing Pancit Musiko photo.

I'm Angus Steakhouse
7431 Yakal Street

San Antonio Village, Makati City,

Metro Manila

Tel: (02) 892 6206


Adarna Food and Culture

119 Kalayaan Avenue,

Diliman, Quezon City.

Tel: (02) 926 8712


Sebastian's Ice Cream Studio

Food Choices

Glorietta 4

Makati City, Metro Manila

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Table Suggestions: The Best Chocolate Chip Cookie

<span class=
Heaven in a Cookie

I know. I'm late to the party.

But this cookie is so sinfully delicious, that is worth the much delay post. The Belgian Chocolate Chip Cookie by Homemade by Roshan (P900 for 16 cookies) is not just the best chocolate chip cookie. In my humble opinion, it is the best cookie ever. I don't know how she does it. But Roshan Samtani, the purveyor of Homemade by Roshan has stuffed these not-so-little pieces of cookie heaven with so much Belgian chocolate chips and chucks of walnuts that it almost excusable to think that you were biting into nutty chocolate bar. And as for the cookie, it is so chewy (the way I like my cookies) that it almost melts in your mouth with every bite.

Enough said. Please excuse me while I finish off the rest of the box.

Homemade by Roshan
Telephone: (02) 631 7786

Cellular Phone: (0917) 833 6286

Website: http://homemadebyroshan.com

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Eating Spanish by Our Table Guest, Miguel

Paella de Verduras by La Tienda

I lived in Barcelona for 20 years before moving back here for good in 1999 and I must say, at first I thought I would miss the food, wine and coffee that I used to have while I was living there. I am happy to admit that I was wrong. There are many good Spanish restaurants in town and what is better is there is also a large variety of Spanish wine locally available to pair your food with. In this post, I feature my three favorite Restaurants with the corresponding favorite dish.

The first one on my list would have to be La Tienda. With Chef Javi Lecumberri in the kitchen, this is definitely my favorite place. Javi is from San Sebastian (North of Spain-Food capital of Spain) and has been in the Philippines for more than 10 years. His cooking is simple and straight forward using the best ingredients possible. There are many dishes I love in La Tienda, but if I were to choose one, it would be Paella de Verduras con Arroz Basmati (Vegetable Paella with Basmati rice).It’s the Chefs own version of Paella using Basmati rice, making it lighter and very fragrant. Perfect with a bottle of Rioja wine. I have never tasted any Paella similar in Spain, specially served with Basmati rice, so this is one of the reasons I love this dish. It is also not so overpowering and loaded like other Paellas, so it serves as a side dish but could also be the main course at the same time.

Chuleton by Gaudi

My second favorite place is Gaudi, owned and operated by Xandra Cacho. Her cooking was greatly influenced by her family, who is also from San Sebastian. My favorite dish is the Chuleton (Grilled according to the methods of Villagodio). A huge 1 kilo cut of meat, specially aged, grilled and served on a hot stone plate with rock salt. Typical sidings are potatoes and Piquillo Peppers. The meat is grilled to lock in the juices and immediately sliced and served. Traditionally it is served on hot stone and the steak is cooked according to personal preference (rare, medium or well done) on the table. I particularly enjoy this with a Rioja wine or a red wine from the Priorato region in Catalunya. I have had many Chuletons in Spain (in basque Restaurants as well) and let me tell you, this one is as good if not better than the ones I have tried in Spain.

Chorizo on Piggy Back by Terry's Selection

My third pick is Terry's Selection in Pasong Tamo. Owned and managed by JC de Terry, he is authentic as it can get. Terry's is a perfect place for Tapas and wine. They have a great selection of Deli and wine to suit every ones preferences/taste. I normally like going there on a late afternoon for some Rosado wine (Rosé wine) and some tapas (Cheese, Cold cuts, etc..). One of the dishes I like most is the Chorizo on Piggy Back. It’s a home made Chorizo, served a on clay pot, then flame grilled til its cooked. It has the right amount of acidity, paprika and spices to make this a great dish. I also prefer this since there is not too much fat on it, unlike others. This dish is perfect with a little bread and some young Rioja wine or a Rosé like the Homenaje Rosado from Navarra.

Coincidence or not, the 3 dishes I chose are traditional Spanish with a little personal touch or twist from the Chefs…not too traditional but not too modern at the same time. It shows how food evolves constantly and even if it evolves, it can still be delicious.

Franco's Note: Much thanks to Miguel of Food and Wine of the World

La Tienda
43 Polaris Street
Bel-Air 3, Makati City
Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 890 4123

Gaudi
G/F Serendra
Mckinley Parkway
Bonifacio Global City
Taguig City, Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 856 0473


Terry's Selection
Building B, Karivin Plaza
2316 Pasong Tamo Extension
Makati City, Metro Manila
Tel: (02) 844 1816

Saturday, June 6, 2009

On the Table: Chef Golda May Ranada

On the Table: Chef Golda May Ranada
Chef Golda May Ranada

Watching family members cooking during lavish fiestas in Nueva Ecija, a young Golda imbibed the sensations and skills that would eventually lead her to a life long passion. Now the executive chef of the fine dining restaurant, Lemuria, Chef Golda-May Ranada busies herself with the day-to-day restaurant operations and creating customized tasting menus for a wine-appreciating clientele. As Lemuria expands beyond their intimate dining space into a full-fledged catering service, Chef Ranada enjoys the ever-challenging adrenaline rush. But on her off hours, it’s about balance–practicing yoga whenever her schedule allows.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My mom. She always cooked from the heart.

Which book has had the biggest impact?


I would say this book made me dream about the wondrous ingredients which were not so available locally way back 1990's. The simplicity of provincial cooking which in itself a lifestyle. I read A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle and I guess it all started there.

What was your first job in the food business?


Pantry girl in Le Souffle (the one in Greenbelt), but I really craved the heat and speed of the hotline so I apprenticed as a saucier.

How did you get involved with Lemuria?

Klaus and Kitt Schroeder were in need of a chef/consultant and I fell in love with the setting of Lemuria.

What is your favorite item on the menu of Lemuria?

La Tomate et Citron, Braised Lamb Shank and Baked Halibut

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Lunch in Maison Pic, Valence, France, hawker's food in Singapore

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?


Casa Armas, Lolo Dad's, Hossein's.

What junk food do you love?

Clover Chips and Chocnut (ha ha ha)

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?


I'm adventurous with food... so I will try anything.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

Next is to travel and eat in provincial Spain, have a baby, write my own cookbook soon.
Thank you to Erik Lacson for the photograph.

Lemuria
5 Julieta Circle
Horseshoe Village
Quezon City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 724 5211, (02) 722 2185

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Table Conversation: Sometimes They Do Read

The New Interiors of 1521
The Rediscovered Interiors of 1521

I'm not sure about this.

I heard from a fairly reliable source that the owners of 1521 Restaurant decided to upgrade their eatery partly because of the overt comments made in the blogsphere. It was not about the food, but about their uninspired restaurant interiors.

I admit. I was a bit more harsh than usual about the look of 1521. It was only because I loved their food so much that it paled in comparison to the rest of the dining experience. I'm happy to report that after an extensive renovation, 1521 is now open for business once again.

Today's Specials
I'll have the Brains, Please?

With a new look, new dishes on the menu and the same witty passion for Pinoy food, I have no doubt that you will be enjoying your next meal at 1521.

PS. Check out my interview with Hell Kitchen UK's Chef Marco Pierre White.

Thanks to Erik Lacson for the more than decent photos.

1521 Restaurant
547 Shaw Boulevard

Brgy. Wack-Wack

Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila

Telephone: (02) 794 0433