Friday, October 31, 2008

Good Enough to Eat: Food Trip



I much prefer fiction over non-fiction books. Perhaps it's because reading is something I prefer to do on my down time as a diversion, and therefore, I want it to be escapist, in a big way. I am a big fan of magic realism, and realized lately that I'm drawn to stories set in the past, or in a different world (hello, Tolkien)--times and places that I can't go back to or experience myself.

When a friend lent me A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle some years ago, I suppose I was a bit skeptical. It chronicled twelve months out of the life of an Englishman and his wife, who uprooted themselves from their home country to live in the south of France. But after the first page, I was drawn in. Any book that starts with the line, "The year began with lunch" is bound to capture my interest!

Each chapter is about one month in Provence--the husband and wife's experience of moving into a 200-year-old farmhouse, their having to deal with neighbors and a multitude of guests in summer, and, of course, the glorious things that they ate. The book is perhaps one of the most entertaining restaurant guides out there, and it's dangerous to read it when you're hungry. A sample in the first chapter, January, where the couple had dinner at a neighbor's:
"It started with homemade pizza--not one, but three: anchovy, mushroom, and cheese, and it was obligatory to have a slice of each. Plates were then wiped with pieces torn from the two-foot loaves in the middle of the table, and the next course came out. There were pates of rabbit, boar, and thrush. There was a chunky, pork-based terrine laced with marc. There were saucissons spotted with peppercorns. There were tiny sweet onions marinated in a fresh tomato sauce. Plates were wiped once more and duck was brought in. The slivers of magret that appear, arranged in a fan formation and lapped by an elegant smear of sauce on the refined tables of nouvelle cuisine--these were nowhere to be seen. We had entire breasts, entire legs, covered in a dark, savory gravy and surrounded by wild mushrooms.

"We sat back, thankful that we had been able to finish, and watched with something close to panic as plates were wiped yet again and a huge, steaming casserole was placed on the table. This was the specialty of Madame our hostess--a rabbit civet of the richest, deepest brown--and our feeble requests for small portions were smilingly ignored. We ate it. We ate the green salad with knuckles of bread fried in garlic and olive oil, we ate the plump round crottins of goat's cheese, we ate the almond and cream gateau that the daughter of the house had prepared. That night, we ate for England."
Thoroughly engaging, often humorous, and above all, mouth-watering, A Year in Provence changed my mind about reading--and traveling. It was then that I decided that anywhere I went, I would eat well. See, I stick to a budget whenever I travel, and in the past, this meant surviving on the most affordable things that I could find (including--gasp!--canned goods). But no more of this nonsense. I realized that to fully experience a new place, one must experience the food.

And if Mayle's book is any indication, Provence offers one of the richest, most delicious travel experiences out there. Oozing with escapism, the book prodded me to add the south of France to my list of dream destinations. And when I get there, mark my words: I shall eat for the Philippines!

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Good Enough to Eat: A Writer's Cook

Good Enough to Eat: A Writer's Cook

Tony Bourdain
signed my book.

I must admit, he's an acquired taste. I first heard of him, as did a lot of people, through his first press junkets promoting Kitchen Confidential, his memoir. Unfairly enough, all I remember from those shows and interviews is that he somehow made kitchens seem like dirty, dangerous places. "Don't order fish on Sunday", or something like that. He was a whistle blower, a tattle-tale, a snitch. He made no impression on me then.

It was my aunt who gave me a copy of Kitchen Confidential (the same one he signed). It was amazing, and it was amazing without me even noticing the whole section about the fish. (I honestly still cannot remember where it is in the book.) The book opened the doors of the actual professional kitchen, in all its grimy, foul-mouthed, sex, drugs, and rock-and-roll glory. More importantly, the book showed me that the snitch could write. Seriously. The same cook who looked so smarmy (sorry, Tony) in those TV shows had serious writing chops. The prose was direct and lucid, while being both descriptive and thankfully economical with his words.

He was also honest, perhaps to a fault, since the picture he painted of himself was definitely less than flattering. But that snide sense of humor, the visceral descriptions, and the sheer grittiness of the book got me. I was hooked. I bought A Cook's Tour, which detailed his adventures during his first TV stint. It was hilarious and touching and, at times, horrifying. I still can't forget the chapter entitled The Burn. I'll not spoil it for you, but the book is worth it just for that chapter.

He does look shifty, though. Slouchy, reed thin, earring, short, curly hair. He doesn't look like any chef I had in mind. Which was why I believe him. He isn't trying to hide anything; no one would want to look like he does if he were trying to put on an image. He is a real chef, and he had the guts to actually bare himself, flaws and all.

It could have gone South. He could have ended up a pariah in New York, with a bomb of a book. The book could have ruined him. And, maybe if he were any less of a writer, it could very well have.

His success shows me that I can also succeed. I'm no chef, but I can write.

He signed my book. I feel great.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

On The Table: Marivic Diaz-Lim

On the Table: Marivic Diaz-Lim
Chef Marivic Diaz-Lim

Remember Tribeca? How about Ñ? If you remember these places, then you would very familiar with the creations of Chef Marivic Diaz-Lim, chef and owner of the ever-popular Apartment 1B. After taking a break to attend to more domestic affairs, Chef Diaz-Lim decided to return and open this restaurant that has become a mecca for food that delights the stomach and warms the heart. Pure comfort food at its very best.
Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My Grandma Anita and Auntie Deanna are the people in my life that influenced my cooking. I grew up watching and helping them prepare home cooked meals for our Sunday lunches.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

The New Professional Chef Book which was one of the textbooks assigned to us while I was in the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. It had the biggest impact since it was the first professional cook book I read in the beginning of my learning experience in the field of Culinary Arts.

What was your first job in the food business?

My first job after graduating from the CIA in 1993 was as a Commis chef at the Mark Hotel in NYC.

When did you decide you wanted to open Apartment 1B?


I decided to open Apt. 1b around the time my son turned 1 year old. I had been in the restaurant business since 1996 and went on a break when I got married in late 2003. In 2006 I realized that I needed to fulfill my passion, which is cooking.

What is you favorite item on your menu?


It is my Honey-Bourbon Baby Back Ribs but having said that I love everything I cook.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?


I can’t name just one restaurant meal. In general, my dining experiences in Paris are most memorable.

Besides your own place, what is your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Right now it is Shinjuku on Makati Avenue, it is where I have my Japanese comfort food like tempura, gyoza, fried rice and wakame salad.

What junk food do you love?

If you consider ice cream as junk food, it's Haagen Dazs and for real junk food, it's Clover chips (original cheese flavor).

Is there a food you just can’t seem to enjoy?

Yes, I can’t seem to enjoy raw food (sashimi, oysters etc.). I also do not enjoy spicy food too much.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I plan to expand my business concept abroad.
Apartment 1B
Unit 1B G/F One Lafayette Square
132 L.P. Leviste cor. Sedeno Sts.,
Salcedo Village, Makati City
Tel. (02) 843-4075

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Good Enough to Eat: Beyond the Plate

Good Enough to Eat :Kitchen Pals
Some of My Kitchen Companions

What was I thinking?!

When it came to choosing this month’s topic, I thought that going beyond food on the plate would be an interesting idea. Foodies are spoiled for choice, not just at the dinner table but even with what to read, watch or even listen to. Books, magazines, television shows and even podcasts are like a vast buffet of delights ready to indulge every food passion, desire and fantasy. The mere fact that you are reading this blog is a testament to how prevalent food is in our streams of information and entertainment.

In the end, I guess this topic was inevitable. What I did not realize was how difficult it would be. Not because there wasn't enough food-related media to choose from but because there was too much that I loved. Forced to choose, I made lists, categorized, negotiated, pondered and wondered why the heck did I make it so hard for myself.

After several days of hair pulling, I finally settled on my choices. And although these may not be the only food media that I enjoy, they are definitely the ones that make food absolutely amazing (at least for now).

Fuchsia Dunlop’s Land of Plenty

Fushsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty

It was her name that caught my eye.

I first encountered cookbook author and Chinese culinary expert Fuchsia Dunlop in a video on Serious Eats, cooking a Taiwanese version of the popular dish, General Tso Chicken.



One year and a food blog later, I find myself searching high and low for Ms. Dunlop's first cookbook called Land of Plenty. It's easy to assume that Chinese cuisine is a homogeneous set of dishes similar in both ingredients and techniques. If one takes a closer look, a whole new world comes alive, filled with depths of differing regional flavors and textures. One could spend a lifetime understand the complexities of any Chinese regional cuisine. And that's exactly what Ms. Dunlop has done.

In her first cookbook, Ms. Dunlop takes her readers on a tour of the Sichuan province by describing the intricacies of its unique cuisine. Sichuan is known for food that's hot and spicy but Ms. Dunlop shows how it is so much more. Sichuanese cuisine is popular in China for its unique flavoring methods, creating dishes that are complex and diverse. Personally speaking, I couldn't have asked for a better tour guide than this collection of stories and recipes--a gastronomical starting point into the land of Chinese cuisine.

If you are wondering about the title of the book, in English, Sichuan translates into the Land of Plenty.

Mark Bittman’s The Minimalist




Besides being a nationally acclaimed food writer, cookbook author and a television host, Mark Bittman writes a column for the New York Times called The Minimalist.

In the online version of The New York Times, Mr. Bittman not only has his own food blog called Bitten but also, as an extension of his weekly feature, he stars in his own cooking video podcasts. With acerbic wit and a straightforward approach, he demystifies the process of cooking by creating dishes that require the bare minimum of ingredients and effort, thus making cooking at home as stress-free as possible.

I'm by no means a professional chef so I'm all for any help I can get in fashioning a delicious dish with little work and a minimum amount of time but with maximum taste. Admittedly, I haven't made many dishes from Mr Bittman's videos. But watching this guy with his unpolished manner and no-nonsense attitude cook with such a passion for food just makes me want to heat up my stove, break out my pans and get cooking.

For more of The Minimalist on video. To check out Mark Bittman's blog, Bitten.

Bear Grylls’ Man vs. Wild



Edward Michael ‘Bear’ Grylls is a British adventurer, trainer, author and more importantly, the host of the how-to survival show, Man vs. Wild. Each week, Mr. Grylls takes his audience to a different inhospitable locale and demonstrates the techniques and skills necessary to survive–including what one must eat to live.

I admit it. This is not your typical food show. In fact, it isn’t a food show at all. I could have easily gone with the obvious like Top Chef or Food Lover’s Guide to the Planet (aka Diary of a Foodie). But if there is one thing this show proves is that food is not always about pleasure. More often than not, it is about sustenance. Feeding one's self in order to endure. Man vs. Wild also confirms the adage that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. But why exactly does a society’s delicacy (goat's eyes, snake’s blood or yak’s liver) have to be so gruesome to eat? I’ll never know.

But who am I to speak? I come from a culture that advocates the eating of underdeveloped duck fetus as a late night snack. In the end, to each his own.

Catch Man vs. Wild on the Discovery Channel on Thrusdays at 9 pm (Philippine Standard Time)

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Table Recipes: Shrimp and Popcorn Salad

Shrimp and Popcorn Salad from Yummy Magazine
Shrimp and Popcorn Salad

“A popcorn what?!”

My wife asked incredulously, probably wondering if all those headstands had finally damaged my brain. A’s reaction is not completely without reason. Honestly speaking, who would have thought that it was even possible to make a salad out of popcorn?

I didn’t. But I was intrigued enough to try out this recipe.

Yummy magazine’s Chef Jun-Jun De Guzman (who learned this dish from Chef Richard Ruben, the Green Market Guru) emphasizes two points: to let the citrus dressing stand of at least two hours (I recommend overnight) to help develop the mixture’s flavors and to use popcorn with no flavorings, artificial or otherwise.

For your information, I substituted the recommended lime juice with lemon juice. I just couldn’t find limes anywhere. Also, I lessened the shrimp by half from the original recipe and added 1 ¼ cup of popcorn. I’ll explain about the popcorn later.
Shrimp and Popcorn Salad
Adapted from Yummy Magazine, October issue
  • 2/3 cup fresh orange juice
  • 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • 1/3 cup finely chopped red onion
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 500 grams shrimp, shelled and deveined
  • 1 bundle spring onions, finely chopped
  • 1 piece bird’s eye chili, finely chopped
  • 1 tomato, seeded and cubed
  • 1 cucumber, cubed
  • ¼ cup cilantro leaves, finely chopped
  • 2 cups cooked microwave popcorn, natural
  • salt to taste
In medium bowl, mix together the juices, garlic, red onions and olive oil. Place in a refrigerator overnight to allow their flavors to develop.

Once the shrimp has been shelled and deveined, place them in steamer. Once the shrimps have turned a bright orange, remove immediately. Cooking time is about three minutes.

Dress the spring onions, chili, tomato, cucumber and shrimp with the juice mixture. Season with salt then add the cilantro leaves. Chill.

Just before serving, toss the shrimp mixture with the cooked popcorn. Serve immediately.

Serves 4
When you toss the dressing with the popcorn, something unexpected happens. The popcorn absorbs the citrus mixture and shrinks. Thus, it is imperative that you serve this dish immediately or else the popcorn will become too soggy. And the taste? Essentially, it is citrus-flavored seafood salad. But what truly makes this dish unique is the texture of the popcorn–a slight crunch with an orange-lemon zing.

My mother said never to play with my food. But she never said not have fun while cooking.

Enjoy.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Table Suggestions: Brunch at Mamou

Eggs Benedict from Mamou
Eggs Benedict from Mamou

Call it a hangover.

You would think after a month of breakfasts and brunches, we would tire of it all. But apparently not.

There are restaurants that you go to, have a delightful meal but have no desire to return to again. There are those restaurants you visit once and after a horrible dining experience, you swear never to return. And then there are places like Mamou that for whatever reason, you find excuses to go back to, over and over again.

Food that is warm, comforting and uncomplicated. Service that is friendly, efficient and yet unobtrusive. And interiors that just make you feel at home. These are the reasons why guests return and also why it is highly recommended that you make reservations before your next visit.

If that’s enough reason to come back, then how about a new menu? A Brunch Menu.

Every weekend, Mamou opens an hour early (10 am, Saturdays and Sundays) to serve up brunch staples, mixed in with some unusual Mamou creations. For our visit, we keep things simple and ordered the Eggs Benedict (P395). In a word, delicious.

Maybe it’s not a hangover after all. But more like a rekindled love for brunch.

Thank you to ChichaJo for giving us the brunch heads-up. And many thanks to Erik for showing me the tricks of the trade.

Mamou: A Home Kitchen

Unit 1C-15
Ground Floor, Serendra
Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City
Telephone: (o2) 856-3569

Celephone: (917) 816-2668

Email: mamou@info.com.ph

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Table Suggestions: Pink Kitchen 2008

Table <span class=

Need we say more?

It's so rare to have this much culinary talent under one roof. If you love good food, this is the one event you should not miss.

Click here for a list of this year's participants. See you there.

Thank you to Kara Magsanoc-Alikpala for the poster.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

On The Table: Chef J Gamboa





A graduate of the University of
Massachusetts and Culinary Institute of America, Chef J Gamboa is a third generation chef/restaurateur. Not only does he continue his family's culinary tradition by managing some of Manila's most beloved restaurants like MilkyWay, Tsukiji and El CirKulo but he is also heavily involved with the award-winning Philippine Les Toques Blanches Culinary Team. With his sister, Malou, Chef Gamboa recently opened AzuThai, a restaurant that serves Thai food in classic, home-cooked tradition.







Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?


I can't name a particular person. Travel and experiencing different foods, ingredients and cultures are where I get ideas for menus and recipes. If there is a particular place that influenced me though, it's New York, the food mecca of the world! I think you will agree with me. Just can't beat the quality, variety and the drive of the chefs and purveyors over there. I have my parents to thank for instilling in us kids the value of work.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

Books, not one in particular. I find myself reading more chef bios than cookbooks lately. My first cookbook though was the NY Times Cookbook by Craig Claiborne. I must have done at least half of the recipes there even before deciding to go to culinary school. I guess that is the book that started me off.

What was your first job in the food business?

In the summers and weekends while growing up, my sibs and I were always at my mother's restaurant, Milkyway. We would "work" lunch there. My elder sisters would work on the cash register or man the candy stand. I would hang out in the dessert bar, pouring shakes of avocado or mango into tall glasses or scooping crushed ice onto almond gelatin eggs or canned peaches and fruit cocktail.

When did you decide you wanted to open AzuThai?

We decided to open a Thai Restaurant to replace Azuma-ya Japanese Noodle House last October 2007 on a recent trip to Bangkok. We were about to renovate Azuma-ya, then decided it would be better to open a new concept altogether.

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

The Gai Ka Pow, a stir-fried minced chicken with chili and basil leaves with a side order of fried eggs, sunny side up--which is really 'deep' fried eggs. Awesome and always hits the spot!

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Breakfast at Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, Kaki Furai (breaded oysters), fresh Uni Donburi (fresh sea urchin on rice), Miso Soup and Pickles served by a charming old lady in a little restaurant that was the size of a one-car garage.

Lunch at the Ginza restaurant of Rokusaburo Michiba, Iron Chef Japan, with Fernando Aracama and Mr. Toshi Utsonomiya, the president of the All Japan Chef Association. The menu was straight out of the Iron Chef Japan TV show, which always seemed a little strange to me. But it somehow worked flawlessly on all levels.

Besides your own places, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila
?

Lolo Dad's Cafe, Shang Palace, Restaurant Cicou (opening soon!), Sun Moon, Terry's Selection (Pasong Tamo).

What junk food do you love?

I try not to eat junk food. Sayang calories. Haha.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Insects and reptiles, in general.

Just between us
, what are your future plans?

Working on further developing AzuThai as the everyday Thai restaurant.

Going to Erfurt, Germany next week to watch the Culinary Olympics, together with our Les Toques Blanches (LTB) Culinary Team Captain, Ariel Manuel (Lolo Dad's Cafe) and LTB Director Fernando Aracama (Embassy Cuisine). We'll see if we can field a team for the next Culinary Olympics in 2012.

Next year, we will send the LTB Culinary Team to Hong Kong in May and Bangkok in October for competitions. LTB is our chefs' association. It is the Philippine member to the World Association of Chefs' Societies (WACS), the United Nations of chefs' associations, so to speak.

Many thanks to Lori for helping make the connections

AzuThai
G/F Milkyway Building

900 A. Arnaiz Avenue cor. Paseo de Roxas,
Makati City

Telephone: (02)817 6252 or (02) 813 0671

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Table Recipes: Sweet Duck Legs cooked with Plums and Star Anise

Table Recipes: Sweet Duck Legs cooked with Plums and Star Anise
Sweet Duck Legs cooked with Plums and Star Anise

It’s our last few days in New York.

W, our most gracious host, wants to take us out to dinner--our last hurrah before we board that stifling cocoon we call an airplane for home. As much as I would love to savor W’s favorite Italian trattoria, I ask if he wouldn’t mind if we have dinner at his place instead. Happily, he agrees.

New York is every foodie’s dream. Besides, having every conceivable kind of restaurant, New Yorkers have the privilege of having access to some of the best produce the world can provide. However, my interests are more local. The Farmer’s Market at Union Square was such an awe-inspiring experience. The array of fresh, organic and locally-grown produce would inspire any cook, professional or otherwise. I’m one of the ‘otherwise’.

I’m obsessed about duck. So once I found a purveyor selling unique poultry meats at the farmer’s market, I knew exactly what I going to cook for dinner. Jamie Oliver, the man who introduced the joys of home cooking to so many of my generation ,apparently loves duck himself. And in his recipe of duck braised in plum, cinnamon and star anise sauce, this love comes through.
Sweet Duck Legs cooked with Plums and Star Anise
Adapted from Jaime Oliver’s Jamie’s Dinners
  • 4 legs of duck
  • 4 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 3 teaspoons five-spice powder
  • a handful of star anise
  • ½ stick of cinnamon
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 fresh chilies, deseeded and sliced
  • 16 plums, halved and destined
  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine the soy sauce, five-spice, star anise, cinnamon stick and olive oil. In a large Ziploc bag, place the duck legs along with the soy sauce/spices mixture. Seal the bag and marinate the duck legs overnight in the refrigerator.

In a roasting pan or casserole, place the chilies, plums and sugar. Pour the marinade out of Ziploc bag and into the roasting pan or casserole. Mix the ingredients together with your hands and carefully layer the plum mixture evenly across the bottom of the pan/casserole. Place the marinated duck legs on top.

Place the pan in a preheated oven at 170 C/325 F. Roast the duck legs for 2 ½ to 3 hours or until the meat easily pulls away from the bone. Once done, remove the star anise and cinnamon stick. Check the plum sauce for seasoning and add a bit more soy sauce if necessary. Serve immediately.

Serves 4
Straight from the oven, served directly on to the table, this dish is truly a delightful one-dish wonder. Because of the slow cooking, the duck meat easily pulls away from the bone--soft, tender and full of flavor. The skin caramelizes and transforms to a crackling crispness. As the duck roasts, the plums begin to break down, slowing imbibing the essences of star anise and cinnamon--creating a sauce that is reminiscent of a sweet-tangy hoisin sauce. I don’t like tooting my own horn but, this dish was simply delicious. Thank you, Mr. Oliver.

It might be a while before I return to New York. There is so much of the world yet to explore. I love New York. But lately, I’ve been craving chicken adobo and sinangag.

It’s time to come home.

Many thanks to W. for welcoming us to his home and letting this wannabe chef take over his kitchen. And to my lovely A, thank you for sharing this experience with me and letting me have my way – some of the time. :-)

Saturday, October 4, 2008

The Travelling Table: An Owl, A Pig and a Lady called Franny

Meatball Sliders from Little Owl
Gravy Meatball Sliders from The Little Owl

I love the small and unassuming.

In recent years, there has been a growing emphasis in the local restaurant scene (or at least in the food media) toward the small, tapered-down restaurant--the corner neighborhood restaurant that is diminutive in seating space and menu options but is big on delivering appetite-whetting flavor. Given my long-standing and well-documented bias, it is a trend that I have no problem embracing with an open stomach.

Case in point, The Little Owl. Owned and operated by Chef Joey Campanero and his partner, Gabriel Stulman, this modest West Village eatery was an immediate culinary hit. Within the first two months, hordes of the food-obsessed were lining around the block for a chance to savor Chef Campanero's take on new American cuisine. Needless to say, going to this restaurant was high on my New York to-do list.

After an initial stumbling block, we finally got our corner table at this corner restaurant. It's a cool, sunny Sunday morning and within minutes every table is filled with hungry diners. Although the crowd can be a bit alarming (tables are so close, you're almost a part of the other table's conversation), the view through the large glass windows of tree-lined streets and charming brownstone townhouses makes you forget the hustle and bustle of this busy restaurant.

While A. opts for more standard brunch fare of Poached Eggs with Braised Greens, covered in creamy hollandaise sauce, I requested for Little Owl's well-loved dish, the Gravy Meatball Sliders. Served on a long, white serving plate, these diminutive sandwiches are a gentrified version of a meatball sub. Meatballs of ground beef, pork and veal are sandwiched in between a soft garlic bun, covered in a tomato-based gravy and sprinkled with shavings of pecorino cheese. The sliders are a bit of messy eat as I bite into them. But as the meatball juices and gravy dribble down my fingers, I can't help but think, so this is what they mean by, 'finger-licking good'.

The Travelling Table: An Owl, A Pig and a Lady named Franny
from top left, clockwise
Frittata with Summer Squash, Mint, Ricotta, Poached Eggs with Braised Greens,
French Toast with Bananas and Bourbon Syrup, Pork Cheek and Beef Tongue Terrine

Another small restaurant gem is the oddly-named The Spotted Pig (rumor has it that it is an homage to one of its owners, Chef Mario Batali).

They call it a gastropub--with a heavy emphasis on the gastro. Since its opening in 2004, Chef April Bloomfield has been creating dishes above and beyond the normal pub grub. By creatively blending English comfort food with Italian technique and flavor, The Spotted Pig has been stuffed with diners who just can't get enough. It looks and feels like an English pub, decorated with an odds-and-ends sensibility: well-worn wooden chairs and tables, a new bar made to look like it has seen better days, hunting and fishing poster art adorning the walls and a collection of ceramic and wood pig figurines of all shapes, colors and sizes.

The morning we visit, the place is packed, teeming with activity. Families, friends, couples and singles at the bar, all enjoying the morning, all savoring their brunch repast. I'm in the mood for eggs and although I usually prefer my eggs on the runny side, choose to try their frittata. But not just any open-faced omelet--a Frittata mixed in with Summer Squash, velvety Ricotta Cheese and garnished with fresh Mint. How could I possibly resist? My frittata has a mildly crisp exterior and yet a soft, eggy smooth interior. But what is striking is the freshness of the ingredients: the nutty bite of the summer squash, the delicate saltiness of the ricotta and the cool, astringent zing of mint.

On the other side of the table, A. is loving her dish, a French Toast covered in sliced Bananas and sweetened with sweet Bourbon Syrup. Sadly, I didn't get to taste. A wasn't in the mood to share. Soft but not soggy. Sweet but no overly so. Sublime but packed with levels of tastes. A exclaims it's the best she has ever had.

Pistachio Canoli from Franny's
Pistachio Canoli from Franny's

The lush greenery of Central Park, the high-end shopping on Fifth and Madison Avenues, the business buzz of Midtown, the bohemian chic of the Greenwich Village. When most visitors think of New York, the images that come to mind are mostly of Manhattan. But New York is so much more than just one borough. With the price of a subway pass and a little bit of an adventurous spirit, a new New York experience and wider perspective on the city can be yours. On this trip, A and I decide to cross to the borough beyond the East River, Brooklyn.

While A concerns herself with the new and wonderful retail possibilities, I'm looking for something slightly more rustic and definitely more gastronomically inclined--pizza. The search for the perfect pie is a local obsession. The debate is passionate and never-ending, making the choice on what to try somewhat difficult. As I google away, searching for the quintessential Brooklyn pizza parlor, I stumble upon this restaurant with a very mom-and-pop name, Franny's.

Owned by the husband-and-wife team of Chef Andrew Feinberg and Francine Stephens (the restaurant is named after her), Franny's has been serving up a menu of Italian favorites with a certain urban panache rarely seen at your regular pizza joint. The vox populi have their reservations about this restaurant (mostly about pricing and sometimes, the service) but they rarely complain about the food and after reading Frank Bruni's review, I decide that Franny's will be our culinary rest stop during our Brooklyn excursion.

We arrive early hoping to score a table near the open kitchen--I like watching my pizza get tossed, topped and baked. Although it's an hour before regular lunch service, Franny's is full. Luckily, tables are turning over and we are seated with only a very short wait. We start our meal with an unusual dish, the Pork Cheek and Beef Tongue Terrine. Served with slices of rustic bread, this terrine is reminiscent of a large, thinly-slice piece of salami. Speckled with piece of smoked tongue, spots of pork cheek fat and cracked black peppercorns, the terrine melts in your month, releasing a fragrance and a flavor that I only can describe as a carnivore's wet dream.

A and I love anchovies. So choosing a pizza is a no-brainer. We order a thin crust Pizza garnished with tomatoes, anchovies, chilies and Parmigiano Reggiano. Our pizza arrives at our table directly from the wood-burning brick oven, bubbling hot. The blistering hot crust is crisp to the bite with a smokey charred aroma. The sweetness of the tomatoes contrast and complement both the saltiness of the anchovies and heat of the chilies while the generous shavings of Parmiagiano Reggiano round out these flavors to a lovely medley.

As if that wasn't enough, we decide to end our Franny's experience with a serving of their Pistachio Canoli. I love pistachios. I love this stuffed Italian pastry. With an overflow of pistachio cream oozing out of its crusty shell and healthy layering of crushed pistachios, how could I not love this dessert?

Small in size. Huge on flavor.

There are more fancy restaurants in New York but my heart (and stomach) will always be with the little guys. Now, if I can just get used to practically sitting on my fellow diner's lap, I would be good to go.

The Little Owl
90 Bedford Street
New York City, New York
Tel: (212) 741 4695

The Spotted Pig
314 W 11th Street
New York City, New York
Tel (212) 620 0393

Franny's
295 Flatbush Avenue
Brooklyn, New York
Tel: (718) 230 0221