Amalia's: Afternoon Delight

If you plan to eat at Amalia's, make sure it's during regular mealtimes, and not between 2:00 pm and 6:00 pm...unless you're prepared to sweet talk your way in for a bit of paella.

Pael-yum-yum: Paella Marinara

B and I decided to have a late lunch, because getting up early isn't exactly on our list of priorities on Sundays. Sunday, I believe, is made for napping, vegging in front of the TV, and eating out...all done after 12:00 noon. So it was a bit of a letdown when, after traveling all the way from QC, we found a "Closed" sign hanging on the glass door. One group was at the tail-end of their meal, and as they exited, I popped my head through the door and asked one waitress, "Pwede?" This despite the sign posted on the door, proclaiming their operating hours. She looked back at the counter where some of her co-workers were. "Nanggaling pa kasi kaming QC eh..." I said. Hey, it was worth a shot. She and the others finally agreed, and I quickly got the rest of me through the door before they changed their minds. B followed, and we settled into a booth lined with pretty cream-colored damask, and with a mosaic pendant lamp hanging overhead.

No visit to a Spanish resto is complete without an order of paella, and since Franco beat me to the Paella Espanola, I got the Paella Marinara (P235 for one, P440 for three). If the name doesn't help, this paella is loaded with seafood: fish fillets, mussels, shrimp, and some eggs, green peas, and red pimientos for good measure.

Paella is paella. Maybe I'm just unfortunate, but I don't think I've ever really tried paella that stands out in my memory. Which is not to say that Amalia's version isn't good--just not memorable. I did love the crispy portion though, and B mocked me when I scooped it onto my plate and cried "Tutooong!"

We also ordered the Lengua con Setas (P275).

Lengua con Setas

Lengua is a lot like balut--you have no problems eating it until you realize what it is. I read about two people having a conversation about their weird food preferences where one person admitted that she liked ox tongue. The other replied, "Eyew! I don't want to taste anything that tastes me back!"

I had this in my head as I sliced my lengua, trying to quell the image of dancing taste buds. I really do like the taste of lengua, but sometimes the texture is just too much like...tongue! Almost jelly-like. Not a pleasant texture for someone with a hyperactive imagination.

But the Amalia's version, simmered in red wine and brown sauce, and served with button mushrooms and an olive (or two) was actually kind of...beefy. I nearly forgot that I was essentially French-ing a cow, as my brother would say. "It's the way lengua should be," said B in between bites. I just don't know if it was him or the ox talking...

I had a pleasant meal, and I couldn't complain about the food. And I am really thankful to the staff for letting us dine there during what was supposed to be their afternoon break. Would I go back? Probably. Just not any time soon--there are other restaurants to try.

(P.S. If anyone could point me towards paella that could make me forget my name, I'd really appreciate it!)

Amalia’s
Ground Floor
Maga Center
Paseo de Magallanes
Makati City
Telephone: (02) 852 1381

7 A. Aguirre Avenue
BF Homes, Paranaque City
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 850 3123

Table Conversation: Have Food. Will Travel.

Travel Planning over Brunch

Food and Travel.

Over brunch, A. and I are hatching a plan. We are trying to figure out our interary for a little trip, we've been discussing for a while now. As our departure time grows near, working out the details as been, shall we say, interesting -- mostly because of differing agendas. A. is interested in what plays to watch, museums to visit and of course, shopping. As for me, (no surprise) it's all about the food. While in negotiations with my dear wife, I couldn't help but wonder where my fellow foodies travel to for the food and otherwise.

So the question is where were your favorite food trips? Both local and foreign. Where did you go? What did you eat?

Mariko says:

Local

I'm a big beach lover so Boracay is always good. I go to Real Coffee every day when I'm there! Love the Jack-a-Lean Omelet, cold chocolate, calamansi muffins, cookies... I also have my daily shake at Jonah's. When I'm on tipid mode, I just have a choriburger from the ihawan stations and I'm good to go. (My mind has just switched to vacation mode...)

Foreign

Bangkok! You could spend your whole time there eating and you still won't run out of food options. I had a truckload of ice cream while I was there (see Franco's old entry about Bangkok ice cream). I reaaaally liked the pomelo salad at Jim Thompson Cafe, pasta at this Thai fusion place called Greyhound Cafe, and the value-for-money street food!

Wysgal says:

Local

In Boracay, the grilled seafood in Paradiso Grill (known as Paraiso Grill the last time I checked) and the calamansi muffins in Real Coffee are favorites. In Tagaytay, I love everything on the menu at Antonio's, and all the omelettes in Breakfast at Antonio's. And no trip back home to Manila is complete for me without a visit to Pancake House and an order of Mix + Match Combo 2 (taco, spaghetti, PanChicken) and a side order of banana pancakes.

Foreign

I'm a grad student in Philadelphia these days, and post-night out food cravings are best satiated with a cheesesteak from 24-hour Pat's or Geno's at the Italian Market. Other favorite Philadelphia haunts are Midtown Continental, Sang Kee in Chinatown, the Reading Terminal Market, and Morimoto. In Hong Kong (one of my favorite cities in the world), I always try to go for high tea at the Peninsula Hotel, dimsum in City Hall, and roasted goose in Yung Kee.

Anonymous Paul says:

Basically, I try to make every trip a food trip. Whether here or abroad, I like going to where the locals go, or ask around what they consider good places. I love markets, street food carts, dives, shop houses, diners and hawker centers. The list is long but we'll go with the most recent ones:

Local

I can't say I've had any local food trips recently but I did go to Davao a few weeks back, where the seafood's consistently really fresh and cheap. Like a whole tuna jaw for about P150, in a good restaurant at that. Or squid the size of a burly man's arm for the same price. The best thing is they know how to grill right. I have this friend there who always makes me eat tuna testicles; which I can't say I tastes like anything but definitely has texture. Fruits are abundant as well.

So I guess these stuck out for me because of the pure flavors. All just simply prepared food if you look at it; inexpensive even. But ingredients used are of the best quality. All prepared with love and/or tradition. and that makes all the difference, really.

Foreign

I'm not a lechon lover but I had the most fabulous babi guling (roast pig aka lechon) in Bali at this place called Ibu Oka in Ubud. The whole day-trip was centered on having lunch at this warung (food stall) and I was not let down. This place lovingly roasts only a handful of pigs a day and does so with great skill. the meat moist and never greasy; every square inch of skin blistered in smoky crispness. A portion consists of steaming white rice piled with shredded meat and generous portion of crackling. on the side are deep fried innards (chicharon bituka), blood sausage and the token vegetable. then all is topped with the house sambal sauce. I would drive for hours everyday to have a meal like this.

In a most recent Bangkok trip I visited some favorite shop houses and stalls of fabulous northern thai food. Grilled pork neck, sausages, somtam poo (papaya salad with raw crablets), laarb (ground meat salad) and of course sticky rice. really traditional/provincial food prepared with great pride. I also love those yeng tau foo type stalls and noodle shops. And Nam Prik Kapi; this fiercely spicy shrimp paste sauce served with steamed vegetables and fried mackerel. Commonly found in sidewalk eateries and, surprisingly, "hi-so" restaurants like Greyhound Cafe. Great all-day, one-dish meals.

Hundred Pound Foodie says:

Local

Sagada, Mountain Province - freshly made yoghurt at Yoghurt House, the crispy fried chicken at Masferre Resto, mountain tea (made from what to me looked like big dried guava leaves haha) and kape arabica. Simple fare but the cool mountain setting made everything taste delicious.

Amanpulo, Palawan - Gulai kambing, the softest braised lamb shank, kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass and fresh coconut milk. Pero sa totoo lang, it was the beef burger -- char-grilled lean beef patty, caramelized onions, tomato, cucumber, pickled beetroot, lettuce and fries -- that got me swooning. And the iced tea! It was a long boat ride from the resort to the picnic island. When we got there, the boat driver/guide/server brought out the food from the picnic basket. Then I saw him pull out this tall, dewy glass of iced tea complete with a dense froth (as though it just came out of the shaker) and a straw! Parang magic.

Sta. Rita, Bulacan - Pork isaw at roadside store Thorellie's. The only isaw I eat and like -- savory, chewy and no stinky. Dipped in a "magic sawsawan" (a vinegary concoction that has turned brown from repeat dipping of charred barbecue sticks, marinade/fat/oil drippings and only-God-knows-what). They say Thorellie's sawsawan is so good that someone actually nicked one bottle (eh bote yun ng nescafe na walang takip). Fresh coconut juice in cheap plastic cups completes the experience.

Foreign

Dubai, UAE - Raw lamb kidney at Lebanese Bistro, many years ago. Fresh (slaughtered that morning I was told). The minced meat looked baby pink, mixed with lots of spices. Traumatic first (and last) taste but secretly, I actually thought it was good.

Malacca, Malaysia - my first lone travel and first foray into Nonyan cuisine. Of all things, I remember how much I liked kangkung belacan (a very simple side dish made of kangkong and shrimp paste, paired with a fish dish). Just what I needed because I missed home.

ChichaJo says:

Local

Bicol - I don't think I expected to be as enamored as I was with the cuisine when I visited Bicol. I mean, I love laing, always have, but I don't think I (nor my best friend K) was prepared for just how much we would fall in love with the local fare. We were like ravenous dogs, devouring laing, Bicol Express, and pinangat at every turn. The creamy coconut milk paired with the heart-stopping spice of their cuisine is a combination that is not to be missed.

Pampanga - They don't claim to be our culinary capital for nothing. Yup, Pampanga can afford to brag. Aside from dining establishments serving the fantastic local food (like Claude Tayag's) you also have the multi-cultural offerings of it burgeoning food scene. There is everything from great Italian restaurants to incredible steaks which I have yet to try, a good Thai place (Kingdom) opened by Chef Sau...even an Eastern European place. My favorite so far (and knowing the plethora of restaurants in Pampanga who knows for how long!) is Zapatas, the Mexican place on Fields Ave.

Foreign

Bangkok - What is not to love about a place where you cannot get a bad meal? Bangkok's deliciousness oozes out of every nook and cranny of this crazy city! I love eating in little hole in the wall places, or streetside, where you get the most bang for your bhat. I love som tam (papaya salad), green checken curry, their fried fish, tom ka gai...but really, everything bangkok has served up I have loved.

Greece - I was based in Greece for two months and I can say that I never tired of the food. No cravings for home-cooked meaks and rice. No longings for adobo and sinigang. The more Greek food I ate and more I wanted. It helps that Greek street food, like gyros, costs less than eating at a fastfood chain, so if you're on a budget (which I was) it is heaven. Look for the gyro stalls that have big roasting ovens when they roast everything from chicken to stuffed rolls of juicy meat. When I needed something really hearty my favorite dish to have was lamb youvetsi (braised lamb with orzo). And baklava! Impossibly sticky honey and nut heavyweights...divine! In the islands I loved to have kalamares or grilled octopus with lemon. And on a hot afternoon...Nescafe frappe!

Lori says:

Foreign

Vietnam - When I was in Vietnam last June, my sister and I, we're both durian freaks, decided to go to the local market instead of joining the rest of the family for an afternoon nap. We chose two big durians that intoxicated us with their pungency and asked the stall owner to place it into two styrofoam containers. Without warning, it started to rain. Hard. We watched in amusement as Vietnam's mass of motorcycle riders whipped out -- almost in unison -- uniform baby blue plastic raincoats. My sister and I huddled near the makeshift roof that the durian fruit vendor had constructed. Deciding to wait out the rain instead of getting drenched, my sister and I huddled in a corner near the fruit stall, perched on Vietnam's ubiquitous Monobloc stools and decided to snack on the durian. By some stroke of good fortune, there was an electric fan near us, providing some ventilation. With the durian that was divine on all counts, we couldn't have asked for more. We were almost sad when the rain let up and we had to go back to the hotel. Of course we had to buy another durian for the family because we ended up polishing off two durians!

Chardonne, Switzerland - Food is the reason I travel, but it's those unexpected little joints that provide me with the most delicious memories. One of the them is a charming little neighborhood eatery called Café Au Bon Vin, a place recommended to me and my husband, Bindoy by the concierge at the hotel. A family-run place, it boasted of homemade sausages -- fat, juicy, horseshoe-shaped, the stuff hotdogs wish they could be. And the fondue. My god, the fondue! Made with Emmenthal and Gruyere, it came to the table, a steaming cauldron of creaminess. I want to weep just remembering it. So etched in our memory is the meal that we go back there one last time, on my birthday, our last day in Switzerland.

Kyoto, Japan - Kobe beef sukiyaki. Need I say more?

Food Porn: White Chocolate Cheesecake from Apartment 1B

What does Apartment 1B's delectable White Chocolate Cheesecake have to do with the topic at hand? Absolutely nothing.

Sometimes, it really is just about the food. Yum.

Many thanks to Mariko, Wysgal, Anonymous Paul, Hundred Pound Foodie, ChichaJo and Lori

The Travelling Table: Off Tagaytay's Beaten Track

from top left, clockwise
Len's Kitchenette, Beef Bulalo, Paksiw na Tawillis, Fried Isaw

Erik and I are lost.

We think we are somewhere between Amadeo and Tagaytay. My photographer friend and I are on a job, trying put together a story that seems to be going nowhere quick. Finally, lunch rolls around. We need the break, badly. With our bruised egos and sore legs, our guides finally lead us to the Mahogany Public Market and to a little eatery called Len’s Kitchenette.

Len’s Kitchenette is small roadside place connected an open-air public market. Nothing fancy here. Just a bunch of white, wooden tables, a glass case displaying the day’s deep-fried specials and several stainless steel chafing dishes filled to brim with saucy, savory delicacies. In true turo-turo fashion, there are no menus here. Guests come up to the counter and choose from the myriad of dishes prepared by Len and her girls for the day.

While hungrily awaiting our food, I take in the surroundings. The place is packed. But, these aren’t your typical, city-weary Manilenos. I realize truck drivers, salesmen, market vendors and families of shoppers—regulars and local diners—surround us. A food lover’s tip: when in a strange town or place, follow the local crowd. We are definitely in the right place. On the touristy side of Tagaytay, the view is of beautiful vistas of the green, rolling hillsides and the serene waters of Taal Lake. At Len’s, the view is of butchered meats, sides of pork and beef hanging on display in front of the public market. Grotesque for some. Endlessly fascinating for others.

A couple of minutes later, our food arrives. It’s simple fare, really: beef shanks stewed in a beef broth and seasoned with fish sauce, tawillis (a small, local fish) wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in a vinegar-ginger soup and pork intestines, deep-fried to crackling scrumptiousness (doesn’t it look like a brain?). Local food enjoyed by Pinoys everywhere, everyday. But what really captivates me is where we are and what we are doing. Eating outdoors. Surrounded by locals, loving their food. Chowing down on food sourced from nearby farms, bought from a local market, next-door and cooked on-site. It doesn’t get better than this.

Our story maybe lost. But as least, Erik and I had a delicious lunch and great photos to prove it.

PS. I am fascinated by the fact that Pinoys eat everything on a cow or pig. It's not always about the ribeye or pork chops, people.

Once again, many, many thanks to Erik Lacson for making the everyday look amazing.

Len's Kitchenette
Mahogany Public Market
Tagaytay City

Table Suggestions: The Best Panna Cotta

Heaven on a Plate

I’m not big on desserts (with obvious exceptions, of course).

I’ll leave desserts to more passionate bloggers (Hello, Lori). But I love what I love. And I love this dessert.

It is called Panna Cotta Heaven from Restaurant Verbena, Tagaytay.

I’ve talked about it before. But this is the only time (of the many, many times I’ve had this dessert) that I’ve gotten a (more than) decent photograph. Why do I love it so? Simple elegance. These little white towers are pretty much run-of-the-mill cooked cream. But what makes this dessert special is not what’s at the bottom but what’s on top: Saffron and Carnal Oranges. Black Pepper and Raspberries. Lemon Balm and Pistachios. Every panna cotta is a different flavor, a different texture and a different delight. A trio of simple deliciousness.

A. and I adore this dish. So much so that when in Tagaytay, we never miss a chance to drop by Verbena, order a plate and revel in the scrumptiousness of this heavenly dessert.

You can argue with me if you wish. But I’m taking a stand. This is the best panna cotta in the Philippines. For me, this dessert always comes first.

Many thanks to Erik Lacson for capturing heaven on a plate.

Restaurant Verbena
Discovery Country Suites
300 Calamba Road, San Jose, Tagaytay City
4120 Philippines
Telephone: (63 46) 413.4567
E-mail: rsvn@discovery.com.ph
Website: www.discoverycountrysuites.com

Table Conversation: Celebrating of the Beijing Olympics

The Peking Duck at the Shang Palace

Hooray for the Beijing Olympics!

OK. Reality check, please. I'm not much into this much-awaited sports spectacular. In fact, while the rest of the world was home watching the Opening Ceremonies, we were at the mall-- shopping. While A. went on a shoe frenzy, I was debating the forms and functions of wooden spoons at Gourdo's (I'm working on my spoon collection). Feasting on Peking Duck is usually reserved for special occasions. But since these circumstances are few and far between, I find myself making up any lame excuse to invite friends to dine on this much celebrated dish. A month before my birthday--eat Peking Duck. The dog decided not to do his business indoors-- eat Peking Duck. A. is having a great hair day--eat... You get the picture.

Since the media is bombarding us with all aspects of Chinese life and culture this month, why not partake in the spirit of the Games by tucking into a dish that I consider the height of Chinese culinary artistry? Makes sense to me. And apparently, it made sense to several of our friends as well.

from top left, clockwise
Minced Duck in Lettuce Cups, Tables at the Shang Palace,
Spicy Deep-Fried Duck, Dining Booths at the Shang Palace

Our place of choice for our Peking Duck indulgence is Shang Palace. I usually don't talk about hotel restaurants but this restaurant is exceptional. Located at the Makati Shangri-La, Shang Palace is admittedly pricey. But the high standards of service, the eye-catching interiors and of course, the delicious Cantonese delights make this restaurant a 'Shangri-la' of Chinese gastronomy.

One ground rule for our lunch, we order nothing else except Peking Duck with one exception--a simple vegetable dish of Stir-fried Spinach with Garlic. It is our oasis of healthy eating in our blissful sea of guilty pleasure. We ask our server, Rey, to prepare our duck three ways. In that way, every part of the duck is used. Nothing will be wasted. Fifteen minutes later, a small side table is wheeled in. On top, our glistening, maple-brown roasted duck is ready to fulfill its culinary destiny.

After cutting way into the skin, Rey, with practiced hands, begins the assembly of our first way, Duck Skins wrapped in Lotus Leaf Pancakes. On a thin steamed pancake, he spreads a thin layer of sweet hoisin sauce. On top of the aromatic sauce, Rey arranges a piece of crisp skin and slivers of julienne spring onion. Then, he carefully folds the pancake into little envelopes of duck skin goodness. Every bite of these wonderful rolls is the symphony of flavor and textures: the soft of the pancake versus the crunch of skin, the sweetness of the hoisin cutting the rich, gamey flavor of the duck and the spring onion’s peppery, astringent notes balances it all. The skinless duck is whisked away in preparation for the second and third way. The duck returns to table for our second way, a Spicy Deep-Fried Duck. This way is perfectly fried sans any oily feel on the lips and tongue. Crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, each piece of duck is lightly glazed with a hot spicy sauce that makes the mouth water and the brow sweat. One bite and you still want more. Lastly, our third way arrives, Minced Duck cupped in Lettuce Leaves. Reserved duck meat is stir-fried and plated on young, iceberg lettuce leaves. Topped with a tangy plum sauce, the finely diced duck is complemented by the fresh crunch of lettuce cups. A satisfying ending to an outstanding meal.

Slicing it up: Peking Duck, 1st Way

Peking duck. A centuries-old dish that never seems gets old. I wonder what excuse I'll use next...

Shang Palace
2nd Level
Makati Shangri-La Hotel
Ayala Avenue at Makati Avenue
Makati City 1200
Philippines
For Reservations: (02) 840 0884

Table Recipes: Fresh Mint Ice Cream with Fudge Ripple

How could I say no?

During Sunday family dinner, my eight-year-old niece S. comes up to me. “Tito, can you make me a mint-choco chip ice cream?” she coyly asks with her bright puppy-dog eyes. What can an adoring uncle say with smile but “of course”?

Here is the rub. I have never made a mint-chocolate chip ice cream nor have I ever had any intention of making a mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Until now.

I have a few of issues to clear up. First, food coloring or no food coloring? Most fruits or herbs tend to only provide a very muted coloring to the ice creams they flavor. Thus, most commercial ice cream makers mix in food colorings to these types of ice creams to enhance the visual experience. If you believe in the adage that you first eat with your eyes, then you cannot completely disagree with this practice. When it comes to desserts, our minds always associate intense colors with vibrant flavorings.

Next, how to flavor this ice cream: Fresh Mint or Peppermint Oil? It’s really a question of taste and cost. Peppermint oil, ounce for ounce, is not cheap. In fact, a minuscule bottle (which probably contained less than a tablespoon) cost me more than I would care to mention. But on the plus side, just few drops go a long way, infusing a strong, astringent flavor in any mixture. Fresh mint leaves are a more natural and cheaper alternative. However, it requires a bit more work (and whole bunch of mint leaves) to achieve the same level color and taste of ice creams that use oils and artificial coloring.

On both points, I decide to go with the fresh stuff. What mint leaves lose in convenience, they gain back in subtlety of flavor, texture and color.

Lastly, chocolate chips or another chocolate form? Traditionally, the chocolate ingredient of this ice cream comes in the form of chips. I’ve done numerous mix-ins before from pieces of dark chocolate Toblerone to spicy nuts to chocolate chip cookie dough. I’m tired of mix-ins. Instead, I decide try something new: a deep, dark chocolaty fudge ripple.

Fresh Mint Ice Cream with a Fudge Ripple
Adapted From David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop

For the Fresh Mint Ice Cream

• 1 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 3 cups lightly packed fresh mint leaves
• 5 egg yolks
• Pinch of salt

In a saucepan over low heat, mix together the milk, sugar, a cup of the cream and salt. Bring to low oil, and then add the mint leaves. Immediately remove from the heat, cover and let it infuse for about an hour.

Strain the mint-milk mixture through a strainer. Press on the strained mint leaves to extract as much liquid flavor from them as possible. Discard the mint.

Rewarm the strained mint mixture. In a mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks. In a slow, steady stream, mix in the warm mint mixture in the yolks, stirring continuously. Transfer the mint-egg mixture into a saucepan.

Over the medium heat, constantly stir the mixture until it easily coats the back of the spoon. Pour the custard through a strainer into a bowl and combine with the remaining cream.

Cool the custard over an ice bath. Stir constantly.

Chill the mint custard in the refrigerator and then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes 1 liter

For the Fudge Ripple

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup light corn syrup
• 1/2 cup water
• 6 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch processed cocoa powder
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

In a saucepan over medium heat, mix together sugar, corn syrup, water and cocoa powder. Constantly stir until the mixture low boil.

Cook for another minute and then remove from the heat. Mix in the vanilla extract and cool. Completely chill the fudge mixture in the refrigerator.

Mixing in the fudge ripple is simple. As you move the freshly churned ice cream to its storage container, carefully layer the fudge sauce in between layers of ice cream. Do not stir the ice cream or fudge.

Make 1 cup

A few of days after delivering the ice cream to my niece, I get a text. “Thanks, Tito. It was really, really good. Can you make some more? :-)" signed S.

I will never be fan of mint ice cream. But part of the joy of making ice cream has always been about sharing the creamy fruits of my labor with loved ones. And besides, I’m a sucker of the sound of a heartfelt, satisfied yum.

Amalia's: The Extraordinary in the Normal

top left, clockwise
Sole Richelieu, Paella Espanola,
Chorizo de Bilbao, Baked Mussels

They say that every meal is a journey.

Sadly, all this "journeying" can sometimes become tiresome.

I enjoy exploring what the culinary world has to offer. I love the adventure. But even the most intrepid of foodies has to stop, take stock and revisit the food that made them fall in love with all things gastronomic.

In my case, it all started with the Sunday family dinner. It was during these dinners that I discover my inner foodie. Be it a home-cooked meal or a dinner out at a restaurant, these meals in the company of my family were my unheralded initiation into the much broader world of food.

In my younger years, the restaurant of choice was a place called Minggoy’s. It was in this humble Spanish restaurant (along with some helpful guidelines from my mother’s kitchen) that my food education began. The food from Minggoy’s would help set the standard at which all food would be compared and contrasted—food from the kitchen of Minggoy’s then head chef, Amalia Jocson.

Fast forward a couple of decades. Chef Jocson has broken out and away. Not only does she manage a successful catering business but she is also the proud owner of two restaurants that bear her name, Amalia’s.

The newer of the two Amalia’s is nestled on the ground floor of a nondescript building along the Paseo de Magallanes strip. From this unassuming location, Chef Jocson reintroduces dishes that conjure childhood memories of joyful dinners past. I am elated by the idea of dining here.

Famished from a morning of yogic backbending, A. and I decide to keep to the traditional basics. We start our meal with two popular tapas. Covered in grated garlic, baked and spooned over with a butter-white wine sauce, this dish of Baked Mussels (P148) is simply delicious. The creamy, orange mussels is balanced by the sweet, pungent flavor of the baked garlic. Our mouths water as we suck down the flesh from their half-shell, savoring their subtle flavor and texture heightened by the salty, slightly acidic butter sauce.

The Chorizo de Bilbao (P185), a pork/beef sausage native to the Basque region of Spain, is sliced into half-inch segments, sautéed in olive oil and garlic and garnished finely chopped parsley. As the chorizo cooks, it renders out its reddish pimiento oils, coloring both the olive oil and finely-minced garlic and releasing a distinctive aroma of garlic, cumin and oregano. One bite and I guarantee you will be hooked.

The Minggoy's faithful will immediately recognize the Sole Richelieu (P255). This dish of grilled fillets of sole, garnished with mushrooms, shrimps and spinach and topped with generous serving of hollandaise sauce, is a carry-over from Chef Jocson's former kitchen. So unchanged is this dish that it almost seems retro. Check out the buttered beans and carrot segments or the ice cream scooper-shaped mashed potatoes. It's all very 80s. Technically speaking, the sole is perfect cooked: firm and yet very moist. However, the hollandaise is a disappointment. Hollandaise is all about the emulsification of butter, water and egg yolks. But for some reason, Amalia's sauce lacks the creamy consistency of a properly emulsified hollandaise. Instead, we were faced with an almost gelatinous glaze of butter.

The star of any meal at Amalia's is always the paella. Of the four varieties available, we order the most popular (according to our server), the Paella Espanola (P235 for one). Cooked and served in small, shallow paellera, this paella is topped cuts of chicken, slices of chorizo and eggs, mussels and shrimps in their shells, peas and red pimientos. This paella is a delicious meal unto itself. But as any paella veteran will tell you, the most prized part of a paella is not on the top but at the bottom. In fact, the crispy, toasted rice at the bottom of the paellera called tutong is a much sought-after delicacy and a serious bone of contention between A. and me.

Amalia’s is not the most creative or the most innovative of restaurants. But, sometimes, it is not about that. Chef Jocson has created a space where diners can come, relax and sit down to a deliciously satisfying meal. It is true. You can never come home. But an occasional visit is always good for the stomach and the soul.

Amalia’s
Ground Floor
Maga Center
Paseo de Magallanes
Makati City
Telephone: (02) 852 1381

7 A. Aguirre Avenue
BF Homes, Paranaque City
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 850 3123

Table Recipes: Brown Sugar Ice Cream with Spicy Cashews

Inspiration will find you in the strangest of places.

It’s a lazy Sunday afternoon and I’m channel surfing. While looking for something interesting to watch, I come upon Bobby Flay’s new show, Throwdown with Bobby Flay.

Not having enough culinary competition in his life, Iron Chef Bobby Flay travels around America challenging chefs, bakers and cooks at what they do best. In the particular episode, Chef Flay has challenged the ice cream maker extraordinaire, Jeff Sommers, owner and operator of Izzy’s Ice Cream. Needless to say, I’m glued to the TV.

No surprise. Bobby Flay loses this ice cream throwdown. But on the upside, the episode inspired me to tryout a slight variation on Caramel Ice cream.

Using David Lebotivz’s Pear Caramel Ice Cream as a starting point, I remove the pears and replace the refined white sugar with a deep flavored, dark brown sugar instead. For a mix-in, I decide to follow Jeff Sommers’ lead and make my own version of Spicy Cashews. I image the cashews will bring a hot, nutty contrast to the sugary, velvety ice cream.

Brown Sugar Ice Cream with Spicy Cashews
Adapted from David Lebotivz’s The Perfect Scoop

For the Brown Sugar Ice Cream

• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 cup whole milk
• 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Pinch of salt

For the Spicy Cashews

• 1 cup cashews
• 2 tablespoons egg whites
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Pinch of black pepper

For the Brown Sugar Ice Cream

Spread the brown sugar evenly at the bottom of a large saucepan. Place the pan over medium heat. Observe the sugar constantly.

Once the sugar at the edges begins to liquefy and darken, slowly stir the sugar. Once the sugar has melted and darken a few shades more, remove it from the heat.

Immediately, stir in one cup of heavy cream. The caramel will seize and harden. Once the caramel has settled, continue stirring until the hardened sugar is fully incorporated into the cream.

Add the remaining cream, milk, salt and vanilla extract.

Chill the mixture completely in the refrigerator, and then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

During the last minute of churning, add the chopped spicy cashews.

Makes 1 liter

For the Spicy Cashews

Preheat your oven at 375C

In a mixing bowl, beat the egg whites to a foamy consistency. Then combine the egg whites with the cashews, sugar, salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper.

Toss the mixture until the cashews are evenly coated. Spread the coated cashews on a non-stick baking sheet.

Bake in the oven for 5 minutes or until the nuts turn a golden brown.

Makes 1 cup

The ice cream is smooth and creamy. The taste is a caramel sweet balanced by a hint of bitter lingering in the background. Not only does the spicy cashews provide some nutty heat but it also adds a contrasting crunch as you dig in.

Television can sometimes provide the sweetest inspiration.