Thursday, July 31, 2008

Katips Kuisine: This Old House



Franco's Note: For this month we've decided to take a little food trip in and around the Katipunan Area. Visiting places you may have or have not heard of. Enjoy.

I first visited Inyo nearly two years ago. At that time, they had pretty much just opened, and while service still wasn't impeccable, I vowed to go back. It had so much potential, plus I thought it epitomized the whole value-for-money deal. I loved that there were vines dripping from the trees at the entrance--this added to its charm. I loved that it was in a converted old house--this added to its character. I loved that it served well-prepared dishes without being all pretentious--this just made it my kind of date place!

Two years later, I finally made good on my promise. I was pleased to find that it had only gotten better with time: The service staff was very attentive and friendly, the interiors were well-kept (a tropical moderne bathroom!), and the food--Inyo has gotten to this level that they just seem so very comfortable with what they're doing. The French-Japanese fusion just totally works, and the plating has gotten more whimsical and fun. I was tempted to order what another table was having based solely on the presentation of the food (my non-contact-lensed eyes spied something similar to tempura served in paper cones resting in large martini glasses).

I ended up ordering one of their specials: Fruit Wood Grilled Cream Dory Fillet (P480).



I don't even know where to begin describing this dish. There were just so many textures (the slight crispiness of the potato skin, the tenderness of the fish, the creaminess of the sauce) and flavors (dory, uni, potato...there was even a hint of oyster in there somewhere). And just look at how it was artfully stacked! It was almost too pretty to eat. (But hunger won out. It always does.) A conversation between bites:

B: It's like...there's a party in my mouth!
Me: And everyone's invited!

B, meat-lovin' alpha male that he is, wanted to order meat and decided on the US Hanging Tender Steak (P475). I had my eye on this dish because it came with mushroom risotto, and was really glad that he chose this. Sesame Street was right--sharing is good.



The steak, surrounded by red wine sauce, was delicious enough on its own; so was the risotto. But together, they made a great example of something being more than the sum of its parts! I was surprised that B, who normally wolfs down whatever is in front of him, actually took his time with this dish, savoring every bite. "I could eat this every day!" he declared. (That conjured visions of me slaving away daily as I tried to make risotto. I hope he won't mind good ol' fashioned Spam on some days.)

To cap our incredibly satisfying meal, we (er, more accurately, I) ordered one of Inyo's bestselling desserts. Called What a Dessert! (P200), it was a "sinful tart of peanut butter and cream cheese mousse with dark chocolate chips and vanilla ice cream, served with a sabayon of fruits."



It is essentially a peanut butter cheesecake a la mode. Those little horns signal just how rich and evil it is!

All in all, this was one of our most satisfying dining experiences. The restaurant was just so laid-back and welcoming, the food thoughtfully prepared, the prices just right for the kind of food we got (they even threw in a free appetizer: wasabi oyster tempura!). Inyo is the kind of restaurant I dream of owning, mostly so I could hang out there as long and as often as I want. But since owning a resto isn't in the cards just yet, I'll just have to content myself with going back again and again.


Inyo Fusion Cuisine
66 Esteban Abada St.,
Quezon City
(Parallel to Katipunan, near Ateneo)
Tel. (02) 928-6459
http://inyo.ph


Open Tuesday to Sunday
11:00 am to 2:00 pm, 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Katips Kuisine: Bread in a New Light

Bread and dough are never limelight superstars like cakes or ice cream, yet these 2 staples are institutions in the baking world, often being marks of a good and compleat baker. Bread and dough have always lent support to the tastiest toppings and spreads, adding substance and breaking satiety in the best of meals.

Just like its products, Manna Bakery blends in the cacophony of eating joints in the busy Katipunan area. It is hardly noticeable with its subdued facade and beyond pedestrian and vehicle eye level. And so I consider my discovery of this bakery literally manna from the heavens when I stumble upon it while pausing, waiting for a car to back out of its parking slot. It looks so out of place in its building that I decide to go down and check out this oddity.

Upon entering the place, I am enveloped in brightened cozy-ness. My senses are awakened with their display of bread of familiar names and unfamiliar uses. The traffic light of a bread guide further adds to my excited confusion, harrassing the calm-spirited cashier behind the counter with my indecisive ordering.


I decide on the Cinnamon and Walnut Sourdough Loaf (Php65). Scrumptious! Compared to the more popular cinnamon roll, the dough is chewier and tastes more doughy. There is more spice than sugar in this loaf and the walnut! Oh the walnut! Manna is generous with their walnuts. The walnuts in this sourdough are chunky, meaty, and moist. It reminds me of the freshest newly roasted chestnuts I once-in-a-blue-moon get to buy from my Greenhills suki. I was planning to bring this to work for my one week baon. I gobbled it all up in one sitting.





On my next visit, I order the Whole Wheat Pizza (Php240) and the Pasta Arrabiata (Php130). Interesting enough, the pizza reminds me of a grilled panini less the oil and fluffiness. The toppings are satisfactory, but its combination with the whole wheat dough gives the pizza a more grainy texture.






The Pasta Arrabiata is literally surprising. One must not be fooled by its Mary Jane plain presentation nor its expected tomato sauce flavor that initially greets. As the girl on the next table aptly tells her companion, "Grabe. *%^&! Grabe! Grabe! This gets really spicy pala! Grabe!" I smile and enjoy the spice that simmers at the end of my palate.


That was the end of my second visit, which was followed by a third, a fourth, and who knows how many more times I plan to go there? In each visit, I am delighted with their innovations (The Sweet Potato Bread with less flour is chompy, soft, and delectable even without any accompaniments. It's my current favorite.). What one buys in Manna is probably healthy, but that's a bonus. What I am enjoying right now is the rediscovery of the goodness of bread and dough. Just like in the movies, bread and dough may not get top billing, but they sure provide depth, substance, and lots of character.

Manna Specialty Bakery
Esteban Abada Street
Loyola Heights, Quezon City
Open from Monday to Sunday, 7am to 7 pm

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Katips Kuisine: Bless my Belly

Vegetarian Dishes from Blissful Belly
Vegan eating from Blissful Belly

Franco's Note: For this month we've decided to take a little food trip in and around the Katipunan Area. Visiting places you may have or have not heard of. Enjoy.

I have eaten some really strange things in my life.

From coagulated pig’s blood on a stick to deep fried scorpions on sticky buns, name it and I’ve probably eaten it (or at least, would strongly consider eating it). But for some reason nothing fills me with a fearful giddiness more than vegetarian food.

I can’t explain why but my stomach is in knots at the mention of a meatless meal. Call it carnivore’s guilt or a meatless phobia. Whatever you want to call it, the idea of vegetarian food scares me. So when my friend, Stich invited me to try a restaurant he dines at called Blissful Belly, I had to pause. Not that I question Stich’s taste, but why of all place, did he have to invite me to a vegan restaurant?

In the spirit of gastronomic adventure, I decide to take the leap. Beside there’s a Persian Kebab place across the street if things get too green for my liking.

I have eaten in other vegetarian restaurants before. But the experience has always left me wanting more. More precisely, more meat. So as I drive toward Blissful Belly, I struggle to manage my own expectations, reminding myself to respect and understand other peoples’ food choices and memorize the location of the nearest Brother’s Burger.

Blissful Belly is a little restaurant, tucked away on the second floor of a nondescript building just off Katipunan Avenue. This diminutive 15-seater is decorated with bleach blond wooden shelves, chairs and tables, covered in weaves with native mountain province designs. Small and unpretentious, this eatery has exudes a warm, uncomplicated, almost homey atmosphere.

Vegan BBQ from Blissful Belly
Vegetarian Barbecue from Blissful Belly

Unlike other restaurants, Blissful Belly has a clear and singular mission “to prove that going meatless need not be a boring eating adventure.”

Food is served 'turo-turo' or buffet style. Guests are requested come up to a counter topped with chafing dishes and chose the dishes they wish to have. Later, the waiting staff come around to each table and serve each dish in a simple, family-style fashion. With a plate of Steamed Brown Rice (P25), a meal is good to go. Time to tuck in.

At the Blissful Belly, there is no set menu. The best produce their organic suppliers can provide determines their bill of fare. The day of our visit, our lunch menu is decidedly Pinoy.

No surprise, the traditionally vegetable-based dishes are done well. A vegetable dish of lightly Sautéed Togue flavored with Crushed Garlic (P55) and another of Kangkong mixed in with Tofu Skins (P55) are both a delight to munch on. Crunchy in texture, delicately seasoned and full of veggie flavor, the dishes are what you would expect from a restaurant that labels itself vegetarian. A notable dish is the Laing (P55). Blissful Belly’s version of this stew of taro leaves and coconut milk doesn’t stand out because is exceptionally delicious but because it is appetizing enough to make me almost forget about the missing pork belly.

The beer garden favorite of pig ears, cheek and other unmentionable pig parts served on a sizzling hot, cast iron plate, Sisig (P65) is taken for a delightful spin at Blissful Belly. Gone are the diced pork parts. In their place, small cubes of lightly fried tofu marinated in vinegar and soy sauce are substituted. Although this dish may never mimic the texture and taste of the real thing, it still something worth savoring.

The dish that took me completely by surprise was Blissful Belly’s Vegan Barbecue (P30). From the picture above, you can probably tell that the restaurant does an amazing facsimile of this street corner favorite. Made from slices of gluten, instead of chunks of pork, what these sticks of delight lack in texture and bite are made up by a surprising flavor—care of a spicy, sweet barbecue sauce.

I seriously doubt I‘ll be turning vegan anytime soon. But Blissful Belly has opened me to possibility that going meatless need not be a completely lackluster and tasteless experience. For me, a return visit is a very distinct possibility. But for now, I’m in need of a pork chop.

P.S. Try Blissful Belly's Juices, Iced Teas and Shakes. They're...interesting, to say the least.

Blissful Belly

Unit 215 Llanar Building
77 Xavierville Avenue
Loyola Heights, Quezon City
Telephone: (02) 920 3487
Cel Phone: (917) 898 5319

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Behind the Kitchen Doors: Chef Marco Legasto from Purple Feet

Chef Marco Legasto of Purple Feet
Chef Marco Legasto of Purple Feet

New Look. New Post.

It’s been a while since my photographer/friend, Erik Lacson and I have collaborated on a photo essay. So when our schedules finally meshed and the right restaurant agreed to accommodate us, we jumped at the opportunity to work together once more.

The last time we photographed a restaurant, we focused on the day-to-day operations that most diners never get to see. One of the comments that struck me about that shoot was the fact that we didn’t talk about the food. We are a food blog, after all. So, this time, we decided to address the issue.

Chef Marco Legasto and his team take on a unique challenge at their restaurant, Purple Feet. They call it Freestyle Cooking. Without the guidance of a set menu, they create dishes solely on the whims and wants of their demanding guests. A daunting task, to say the least.

For this photo essay, we asked Chef Marco to create three dishes that he loves serving to this clientele. He did not disappoint.

To have a look behind the Kitchen Doors of Purple Feet and at the flavorful food of Chef Marco, click here.

Franco's Note: Once viewing the slideshow, click on the pictures to read more information

Thank you to Erik Lacson for the lovely photos. Many thanks to Chef Marco Legasto and the staff of Purple Feet. And lastly, to Abi, Liza and Jesse of Studio Dialogo, thank you for your creativity and patience.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Table Conversation: Form and Substance

Quiche topped with Sea Urchin Roe from <span class=
A Quiche topped with Sea Urchin Roe

As contributors to a food blog, we rarely accept invitations.

But when we received this:
Hello! I was wondering if you would like to take a seat (or three) at my students' (CCA Manila) final exam? It's a French class, so what they did was make a tasting menu of French classics like French Onion Soup Gratinee, and transform them with a little bit of science and creativity. The cost? Nothing at all…
Chef Joey Herrera
Reinvented French classics, eager-to-please student chefs, a free meal and in exchange, all Chef Herrera requires is our 'humble' opinions on his students’ food? How could we possibly resist? Of course, we accepted.

<span class=
A Deconstructed Salade Nicoise

Our dinner was a ten-course meal of extraordinary vision. It was obvious that these student chefs were out to impress and provide us with a unique dining experience.

Instead of the traditional soup course, we are taken for a spin with a Bouillabaisse Terrine. A reinvention of the classic Provincial seafood stew, this dish easily was the most interactive of all the courses. For taste and texture, the bouillabaisse was transformed into a solid gelatinous terrine, sliced and presented bare on circular plate. For the aroma, an underplate was covered with dried Provencal herbs. Just before serving, the herbs were soaked in warm water, encouraging the essences of lavender, thyme, basil and rosemary to be released. Lastly, the traditional accompanying rouille, an aioli of garlic and chili peppers, normally served on rounds of toast is instead offered in an unusual manner, inside medicine droppers.

From the most intricate to the most straightforward, the Foie Gras with Three Salts was in my opinion, the most successfully satisfying dish. This course was a study in minimalist restraint. Served on a large, rectangular plate, there are only two elements to this dish: a delicately seared piece of foie gras and three lines of multi-colored salts. Each line of salt was infused with a different flavor: one was imbibed with a rosemary and thyme, the other was infused with coffee and another with the distinctive flavor of green tea. It was a joy playing with this dish, I lightly coated my slices of foie with each salt, experimenting with each flavor, trying to find the one I liked best. My personal favorite? The green tea salt.

Although the Red Wine Sorbet topped with a Mango Paper was only meant to be a palate cleanser, it is the course that left me wanting more. My love for all frozen desserts is well documented. I know from experience that working with anything with alcohol to create a frozen dessert can be tricky. Red wine even when reduced (burning most of its alcoholic content) is a difficult ingredient to tame. On its own, the red wine sorbet was elegant. But with the addition of the contrasting flavor and texture of a paper-like brittle of mango puree, this dish became an exceptional surprise.

Steak Au <span class=
A Steak Au Poivre

Like many things in life, creating food is about finding balance--for example, the right amount of sweetness versus the quantity of sour or balancing spicy heat against bitter aftertastes.

During this dinner, the question of balance was about form and substance. Undeniably, the dishes were beautifully plated. It was obvious that much time and effort was placed into their creation. And yet, some dishes lacked those flavorful crescendos that their lovely presentation teased at.

Admittedly, this is the challenge of any multiple-course, tasting menu. Not only must a chef present dishes that are attractive on the plate but also engaging to all the senses, mostly especially taste. At the same time, a chef must avoid the pitfall of any degustation: tasting fatigue--a condition where one course begins to meld into the next and the next until a diner is left with only faint memory of a dinner that had held so much promise.

They say you first eat with your eyes. But a guest still needs those ebbs and flows of tastes and flavors to call a meal a complete success.

Bouillabaisse Terrine from <span class=
A Bouillabaise Terrine

As we were leaving, a fellow diner turned to me and asked if I would pay for this dinner. After considering for a moment, my answer was a whole-hearted yes.

I am and always will be a huge fan of culinary creativity and innovation. I always applaud chefs who push the boundaries of the gastronomical experience. With this batch of chefs, I feel like the culinary future of the Philippines will be bright, exciting and highly inventive. In a few years, who knows what these kitchen artisans will have up their sleeves (and toques)?

I can hardly wait.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Table Recipes: Post-Steak Dinner Sandwich

Post Steak Dinner Sandwich

I love steak night at home.

What I love even more is the morning after. Or more precisely, I love making steak sandwiches from the leftovers from the night before. Last night, I was experimenting with a new Korean steak marinade. It was delicious. But surprisingly, we had leftovers…

Ok, I’ll come clean. Don’t tell A but I always buy a bit more beef than we need, ensuring a sufficient serving of leftover steak for my favorite sandwich.
Post Steak Dinner Sandwich
Adapted from Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Dinners
  • 4 crusty buns
  • 300 gram rib-eye steak, finely sliced
  • 80 grams mixed greens and arugula, trimmed and cleaned
  • 1 large gherkin, thinly sliced
  • Strong English mustard
  • Salt and pepper
  • Butter
Slice the crusty buns in half. Toast to golden brown and spread a few pats of butter on each side.

Layer several slices of cold leftover steak over one side. Place a handful of lettuce over the beef and top that with slices of sweet-and-sour gherkins.

On the other side, generously slather the English mustard. Liberally add sea salt and black pepper.

Assemble the sandwich and serve with chips and whole gherkins on the side.

Serves 4
Sliced Post Steak Dinner Sandwich

The simplest dishes are more often the most delightful. This sandwich is no exception. I suggest using the strongest mustard you can find. As Mr. Oliver says, if you aren’t tearing up while eating this sarnie (love Brit slang), you didn’t put enough mustard.

Enjoy.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Table Conversation: Lunch with a Critic

Table Conversation: Lunch with a Critic
Yummy's Resident Restaurant Critic: Danio Caw

The Place: Jatujak at the SM Megamall. The Time: Lunch

I’m having lunch with Yummy magazine’s restaurant critic, Danio Caw. I’ve always been curious about what would be like to be a professional food critic. It must be amazing fun: to dine at some of Manila’s finer restaurant, to eat to your heart’s (or stomach’s) content, to influence the dining habits of Manila’s eating public and best of all, to have someone else foot the bill. A truly heady experience, if there ever was one. I only occasionally get to have meals with foodies whose passion for food surpasses my own. Even more rare is to get the chance to sit down with a food lover who actually gets paid to write about his passion (or in Mr. Caw’s case, the dining experience in Metro Manila).

Today, Mr. Caw is visiting the first of three Thai restaurants, he will be writing about for future issue. He has been gracious enough to allow me tag along on his little food trip. In between spoonfuls of the usual Thai fare of shredded Catfish Salad and spicy Green Curry Chicken, I turn my focus toward the critic and understand writing food in the Philippines.
How did you get started as Yummy's resident restaurant critic?

The Yummy Editorial staff knows that I love eating out. I seem to eat out more than them so they decided to give me the assignment.


How do you chose the restaurants you review each month?

Every month, my editor and I choose a theme for the three restaurants we are going to feature. Usually it is aligned with the theme of the issue. For the actual three restaurants, I recommend based on where I have eaten or from good reviews from my foodie friends.

How do you write your restaurant reviews? What is your process?

I go unannounced to the restaurant. This is the only way I can get a realistic service from them. I look through the menu and choose items which are interesting to me. Interesting meaning: the house specialty, an ingenious dish or something that a friend recommended. From there, the food tasting starts and notes are made for each dish. I make sure that I have at least three dishes that I like in the restaurant. Anything less would make a lean article. It is either I order more or if the food is bad, stop the review and do not include it in the list. I ask for the bill afterwards and pay it (charged to my magazine of course). It is only when my change has arrived that I ask for the contact number of the person my editor can talk to for shoot arrangements. I am never included in the shoot proper because the magazine protects my identity so that I would not be recognized when I do reviews in the future. I just recommend that items to be shot etc.

What makes for an amazing dining experience?

Great food speaks for itself but I always believe dining should not only be about the food served in the establishment. It is a combination of the ambiance and food. To be honest, I go back to a lot of restaurants where the food is not exceptional but the ambiance comforts me. Food service is another factor to consider. I like being treated like a queen and fushed about. I think it is one of the reasons why I am dining out and not cooking at home.

What was your worst restaurant experience?

A lot :) but most of it involves really bad food service and not bad tasting food. I am amazed at how I can still manage to feel good after getting a so-so meal from a restaurant but still come back if the service given to me was great. At the end of the day, it is how I feel when I exit the restaurant. You will get me to come back if I have a positive vibe after.

You talk a lot about the importance of service. How do you define great service? What restaurants come to mind.

My greatest memory of excellent service are in two restaurants: Lemuria in Houseshoe Village and Aubergine in the Fort. When I say great service, I mean staff that are responsive to my needs and go beyond it. I hate having to call an attendants attention. (That's why they are called food attendants. They should be in attention all the time:)) In the two restos I mentioned, they are always watching the table but always from a far. They know when when my glass is empty wihtout me asking for it. They know when to change courses. I also love service that explains the nuances of the food they serve. They should be knowledgeable. Don't you just hate waiters who cannot answer your questions.

When it comes to the food, what are you looking for in an excellent restaurant?

I look for interesting dishes. "Interesting" meaning a twist to an old classic, a combination I have never seen before, a different way of cooking or a dish I have simply never tried before. Of course, everything has to taste good. For me, the best resto is Lolo Dad's. Just the appetizer sampler alone can fulfill every craving.

How important is ambiance to you and why? Any restaurants that stand out in this respect?

I consider ambiance important because I think when you dine out, you're looking for a "concept" and not just food alone. Food is part of the concept but that is not the only thing that will make your dining experience complete. There are exceptions though like those Chinese dimsum places where you just go to eat. But I prefer restaurants that make me feel good. Take for example, Uno. I love the olive green walls and interiors. Every time I am there, I am immediately relaxed which allows me to enjoy my food.


Name your top five restaurant and tell us why they are on your list?

This is hard:) (1) Lolo Dads: amazing food! for me, best resto in manila (2) Uno: best bread in manila, reliable food, menu changes quarterly so there is always something new for regulars like me, love the ambiance, boosts me up on my lonely days (3) Bellinis: orange cake, orange cake, orange cake (4) Terry's: best Spanish resto for me, love the fabada, love the deli (5) CAV: I love the wine vendo machine (am a lover of red wine), great food.

We noticed that you never write negative reviews. Why is that? Has there ever been a restaurant so bad that you chose not to write about it? Tell us about it.

I am a very frank person and quite critical at times but I have to conform to the voice of the magazine. Yummy is a positive magazine and it would not fit into the editorial voice if there is a negative article. I think the best thing to do is not to include the particular restaurant in the article. Also, this allots for allowance to restaurants for days that just gone bad and not necessarily their fault. Yes, there are restaurants that I did not include but not because the food really tasted bad and needed to be reported to the BFAD. :) Some restaurants are just not interesting enough to wirte about and the food was probably just normal. I think as a restaurant reviewer, you have to give your readers something new. Something they don't know about yet.
By the way, if you’re wondering what were Danio’s thoughts on Jatujak, you’ll have to wait a while. His feature will be in Yummy magazine’s October issue.

Franco’s Note: For your information, I paid for my part of the meal. For better or for worse, I always pay my own way.

Monday, July 7, 2008

Table Conversation: Snack Attack, Pinoy Style

Table Conversation: Pinoy Snacks
A Serious Case of the Munchies: Snacks, Pinoy Style

Nope, that is not my shopping basket on an ordinary day. (If my friends tell you otherwise, don't believe them. I'd throw in some yogurt for a healthy kick. Ha!) This was, in fact, my little assignment: Eat bags and bags of some of the uniquely Pinoy snacks found in the neighborhood supermarket.

See my notes below. If only school assignments had been this fun. Now excuse me while I convulse from the sheer amount of sodium I've ingested...

Boy Bawang (Garlic Flavor)

I am in awe of Boy Bawang because it took a generic snack item that has been around for ages, gave it a brand, and turned it into a household name. (See also, Gardenia Bread.) Boy Bawang is close to becoming the cornick equivalent of Colgate, Frigidaire, and Xerox. I often hear people say, "Uy, Boy Bawang!" but I hardly encounter such excitement over unnamed cornicks in a plain plastic bag.

What I love about Boy Bawang is that it stays true to its name--you get an incredible garlick-y kick with every nutty handful. Forget wooden stakes and holy water--when it comes to vampire repellents, Boy Bawang is the ish, yo. (See also, First Date Food to Avoid.)

Granny Goose Brew Bud (Pork Sisig)
The most hilarious thing about this snack: The bag proudly proclaims that it is a "flavored wheat-based snack." I see it's trying to appeal to the more health-conscious snackers out there, because much like Seiko Films, if it's wheat, then it must be good!

I half-expected to see dried sisig bits as I opened the bag, and was slightly disappointed to find something kropek-like. The flavor? There's a porky taste, for sure, but whether it's anything like sisig is debatable. I say nope. Still, it's flavorful enough to tame an attack of the munchies.

V-Cut (Caldereta Flavor)
V-Cut is perhaps my all-time favorite Pinoy junk food of choice. I love that it is just bursting with sodium, with a delightful spicy kick towards the end of each bite. Plus, it's ribbed for your pleasure! The better to scoop those heavy sour cream and onion dips with. Mmmm dip...

Focus, Mariko, focus.

So anyway, V-Cut now has a line called Pinoy Favorites, and I had me the caldereta-flavored one. With each bite, you initially do get a taste of caldereta, then that trademark spiciness sets in. I am not big on the caldereta but I can recognize that dem chips truly capture the flavor. I think these would be awesome crushed and scattered over some real caldereta--the crunchiness would make the classic dish a tad more interesting, don't you think?

Monterey Chicharon
I'm convinced that everyone hits a certain age when he or she would prefer chicharon with laman.

When I was younger, I couldn't understand how my parents could feast on Lapid's chicharon with laman. Each fatty, oil-infused bit just screamed, "Clogged arteries!" But about two years ago, I started preferring these babies over plain old, cholesterol-lightweight, balat chicharon. Maybe this is why I didn't totally enjoy the Monterey version. I mean, I really liked that it was super salty, plus it could stand on its own without vinegar. (I still had it with some of that wonderful orange-colored vinegar from Lapid's though.) But it was a little flakier and airier than I would have wanted. My mom's verdict: "It doesn't taste...fresh." To which I replied, "Fresh? Fresh chicharon?" Go figure.

For any inuman, though, this would make terrific pulutan. Especially since you could buy it at nearby supermarkets.

P.S. I am obviously a Lapid's fan. But that didn't stop me from finishing the whole Monterey bag. Man, this job's tough.

Table Conversation: Pinoy Snacks
Pinoy Snacks: Out of the Bag

Choc-Nut

Over the years, I have experienced Choc-Nut in its various incarnations: as an ice cream flavor, cake topper, smoothie, and--most recently--body scrub! And then there is Choc-Nut in its purest form, a sweet treat that B's typically male taste buds (read: not heavily into sugar) really enjoy.

Hardcore chocolate connoisseurs would probably wrinkle their nose at this confection--how dare this lowly, chalky, crumbly little bar proclaim that it is chocolate? But with just one bite, anyone would elevate this humble Pinoy favorite alongside the finest that Belgium has to offer. With Choc-Nut, you can't tell where the chocolate ends and the peanut begins; it's just a seamless blend of flavors. And it's not about the quality of the ingredients or the amount of time spent preparing it--indeed, it's incredibly cheap and unapologetically mass-produced. What makes it so special is that it's so distinctly Pinoy, a product we could proudly share with the rest of the world, a little something that gives us a taste of home.

This "taste" could be had in a myriad of ways though--there are as many methods of eating Choc-Nut as there are Choc-Nut-based creations. Some prefer to pop a whole piece into their mouths, to keep it from crumbling in its foil wrapper. Others bite into it then allow it to melt on their tongues--letting the dry, polvoron-like Filipino bon-bon take on a thick, smooth, peanut-butter-like consistency. And then there are the crumbs: You could use your finger to gather up those precious bits, or tilt your head back and slide the remaining morsels from foil to mouth.

The best thing about Choc-Nut? It's enjoyed by everybody--the young, the old, the haves, and the have-nots. It's the great equalizer--appreciated at both ends of the spectrum. Kinda like the choco version of Manny Pacquiao. Manny! Manny! Manny! Er, Choc-Nut! Choc-Nut! Choc-Nut!

Zesto Calamansi Fruitsoda
I generally steer clear of carbonated drinks, not for health reasons (duh, I'm the girl who polished off a bag of Monterey Chicharon in five minutes), but merely because I don't like them. I don't know if there is some sort of aberration in my palate, but that's just the way it is. I've had to politely down glasses of soda at parties and at friends' houses (I know they mean well, so I drink up), and endure weird looks from waiters in Geneva when I would ask for water "sans gas." So you could imagine that this Fruitsoda bit wasn't high up on my list of Pinoy Supermarket Finds to Try. But try it I must.

Once the bubbles have died down and the fizz has made its way (painfully) down my throat, I do note that it really does taste like calamansi juice: It's not like those overly sweet concentrates, or a poseur drink that doesn't even taste remotely like what it's supposed to taste like (hello, grape-flavored anything). It would've been enjoyable, had it not been for that aforementioned pesky aversion to All Things Carbonated.

Rarin' to try it? Make sure you have it on the rocks. Then raise your glass, and toast to all these sometimes weird, often wonderful, uniquely Pinoy flavors--and to Pinoy pride!

Thanks to Erik Lacson for the photos!

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Table Recipes: Deep-Fried Eggplant with Tomato Dressing

Table Recipes: Deep Fried Eggplant with Tomato Dressing

Because of my other interest, I've been thinking about (take a breath) going vegetarian.

No more beef. No more pork. No more fish. Simply put, if it has (or once had) a face, I don't eat it...Maybe, I should consider my options.

There are many benefits to being vegetarian. Consider this.

Besides these very reasonable arguments, I would like to submit this dish for consideration. It is a perfect example of why abstaining from all meats may not be completely out of the question. From the kitchen of my current Chinese food goddess Kylie Kwong, this dish of deep-fried aubergine topped with an Asian-inspired tomato salsa is nothing short of a profound discovery. I've prepared this particular item several times for different sets of guests. The comment is always the same: simply delicious.

Given that this recipe was adapted from a Chinese cookbook, the addition of olive oil struck me as odd at first. But as Ms. Kwong implies in her book, since the olive oil works well with these ingredients (that are also common to Mediterranean cooking), why shouldn't it be there when it clearly enhances the flavor of the dish?
Deep-Fried Eggplant with Tomato Dressing
Adapted from Simple Chinese Cooking by Kylie Kwong
  • 2 medium sized eggplants
  • 1 tablespoon sea salt
  • vegetable oil for deep-frying
  • 2 tablespoons finely sliced spring onions
  • pinch of Sichuan pepper and salt
For the Tomato Dressing:
  • 3 small tomatoes, diced
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup finely sliced spring onions
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped coriander leaves
  • 2 tablespoons red cane vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon white sugar
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
Cut the eggplants in 3/4 inch round slices. Place the rounds on a tray and sprinkle each side with salt. Leave to stand for 45 minutes. Later, pat dry with a paper towel.*

While waiting for the eggplant, prepare the tomato dressing by simply mixing together all the ingredients in a bowl. Set aside.

Heat the vegetable oil in a wok and fry the eggplant rounds in batches. Cook until lightly browned and tender. Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.

Arrange the fried eggplant rounds on a serving platter. Spoon the tomato dressing on top of the rounds and garnish the dish with the sliced spring onions and sprinkling of Sichuan pepper and sea salt.

*This step helps remove the bitter aftertaste of the eggplants.

Serves 6

Franco's Note: This dish tastes just as good as at room temperature. The fried eggplant slices and the tomato dressing can be prepared an hour in advance. Just keep them separate until you are ready to plate the dish for serving.
The lush acidity of the tomato dressing cuts through and clarifies the luxurious texture and flavor of the eggplant. The dish is light. Yet it is full of contrasting flavors that work together, creating a surprisingly satisfying dish.

After savoring every morsel, I'm thinking that going vegetarian isn't such a terrible idea. Now, as I sit, biting into my quarter pounder hamburger slathered in a wasabi mayo, I take a moment. I decide to give myself more time. Must never be too hasty considering important life decisions.

I take another bite...