Friday, May 30, 2008

Reposo Repast: Ricco Renzo

Franco's note: A change this month. Instead of the usual three impressions of one restaurant, we will be writing about a food destination that caught our interest, Nicanor Garcia Street or more popularly known as Reposo. The three of us will be visiting three different restaurants along this epicenter of food and design. Enjoy reading.

I am not a big fan of art.

There, I said it.

I can marvel at friends' collections, and ooh and ahh with the best of them, but I don't see myself collecting sculptures and filling my wall space with paintings. Maybe it's because, most of the time, I just don't get it.

Take for example one of the exhibits at Ricco Renzo Galleries & Bistro. Entitled Sculptures in the Square, it featured "the world's first invisible sculptures." They were crafted from some passing breeze or other. One of them supposedly can be seen if you squint hard enough. I think I'm missing something here...


The first floor; more art on the second floor

What I can appreciate, however, is good food--and Ricco Renzo serves this up alongside watercolor works by Rafael Cusi, the aforementioned invisible sculptures, and the occasional flamenco show. Our Osso Bucco Milanese (P370) came highly recommended, and it didn't disappoint. One of the cafe's bestsellers, the dish is made up of beef shanks "braised in red wine, tomato, and a medley of herbs and spices." I'm on a bit of a saving trip, so I initially balked at the price, but convinced myself that it was OK after seeing the generous serving. The beef was incredibly tender, the sauce heady with flavor. When we told the waiter we enjoyed it, he revealed that it takes seven hours to prepare!


Osso Bucco Milanese*

The pan-seared tuna was recommended as well, but I wanted a more filling fish dish and so ordered the Steamed Pompano with Spinach Salad and Mashed Potato. It was P350, but, again, it was a hefty serving...


Steamed Pompano with Spinach Salad and Mashed Potato*

I didn't enjoy this dish as much as I did the Osso Bucco because, to me, it lacked flavor. it was supposed to have ginger, garlic, and a "special house blend sauce," but I could barely taste any of it. I was also a bit upset that I didn't get a spinach salad. One of the reasons I ordered the dish was for the spinach, but instead I got lettuce. When we mentioned it (nicely) to our waiter, he immediately tried to make up for it by offering another salad. "May masarap na masarap na cranberry dressing, ma'am!" he said. I thought it was really cool of him to do that. And yes, the cranberry dressing was "masarap na masarap"!

The cafe also has a lot of appetizers, some pasta dishes, and dessert so there's lots to choose from. If you're the type who appreciates food with a side order of art, then it's worth a visit.

And do tell me if you see any of the invisible sculptures.

*Forgive the bluish tint of the photos--there was some blue light coming from outside. Er, let's call it art!

Ricco Renzo Galleries and Bistro
G/F LRI Plaza
210 N. Garcia St. (formerly Reposo)
Bel Air II, Makati City
Telephone: (02) 898-2542 to 45
Website: http://www.riccorenzo.com

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Reposo Repast: Dancing with Purple Feet

<span class=
from top left,clockwise
Parmesan Encrusted Cobbler, Jalapeno Poppers,

Prawns with Honey and Cheddar Sauce, Grilled Ostrich with Mushroom Sauce

Franco's note: A change this month. Instead of the usual three impressions of one restaurant, we will be writing about a food destination that caught our interest, Nicanor Garcia Street or more popularly known as Reposo. The three of us will be visiting three different restaurants along this epicenter of food and design. Enjoy reading.

In the most ideal of situations, dining out should be an adventure.

A chance to explore new worlds of flavor without leaving the comfort of your restaurant chair. Take for example, Purple Feet. Embedded within The Wine Depot along N. Garcia Street, Purple Feet has garnered a word-of-mouth reputation for being the 'it' dining place of the moment. A reputation gained without the benefit of any external street signs or old media press releases. A reputation promising to provide its guests with a more interactive dining experience.

Their style of cooking has been dubbed freestyle. Translation: choose your own adventure.

For their main entrees, diners are first asked to peruse a menu of proteins written on a large blackboard.
From common fare like chicken breasts and pork chops to unusual like ostrich steaks and pork trotters, the choice is wide and varied. Next, a Purple Feet chef will approach your table and discuss with each guest how they wish their chosen protein prepared. Here is where it gets sticky. Some diners are elated by the idea of being able to decide on the fate of their meal while others approach this decision with as much joy as having to visit the dentist or taking a final exam at school. Appetizers and desserts are fixed and exempt from the fun (or dread) of diners' interactivity.

Another plus for Purple Feet is their wine menu. Or more precisely, their lack of wine menu. At this restaurant, diners have the generous option to buy their wines at the adjacent Wine Depot at retail prices, meaning no outrageous wine markups that most fine dining establishments have become infamous for.

For our lunch, we begin our meal with two, best-selling (according to our server) appetizers. Jalapeno peppers are stuffed with a mixture of sour cream, diced jalapenos and Romano cheese. Breaded and deep fried to a dark golden brown, the Jalapeno Poppers (P250) are served with a garnish of tempura-fried ribbons of scallions. This dish is about layers of texture and taste. First, a crispy outer coating, followed by the mildly hot, al dente bite of a whole jalapeno. Then, finally, the salty and molten center ooze of mixed cheeses. A savory mentos-like bite. The Rib Fingers (P450) are boneless beef ribs encrusted by a caramelized marinade that includes a splash of Jack Daniels whisky. Fall-off-the-bone tender, these beefy digits of dark caramel goodness seem to melt in your mouth with every bite. So delicious are these small plate starters that I'm considering going back, ordering a couple of bottles of wine and savoring more delights from Purple Feet's appetizer menu.

Our party settles on three main entrees: the Parmesan Encrusted Cobbler (P400), a Grilled Ostrich with a Creamy Mushroom Sauce (P650) and the Prawns topped with a Honey Cheddar Sauce (P530). Our friend, T. enjoyed her Prawn dish but found her equally sweet pasta side dish, a little bit off. After having a taste, I found the pasta not to be the issue of the dish but more the overcooked Prawns that were soft and almost mushy. My grilled ostrich was served exactly as I requested. Black and Blue. A black char on the outside with a very rare interior. Ostrich doesn't have the wonderful marbling of fat the some cuts of beef do. So grilling this slightly gamy meat rare to medium rare is necessary. Unless, you like chewing on leather for lunch. The standout dish of the meal was A's Cobbler. A light Parmesan cheese coating perfectly encapsulates the buttery white flesh within. Light and yet full of flavor. The grainy, salty cheese exterior is complimenting contrast to the smooth, subtly sweet center. The only downside? We wished it had been better presented on the plate.

There is a price for all this interactivity, for this freestyle cooking. It is a lack of consistency. In a normal restaurant with a fixed menu, there are already many variables involved in creating a memorable dining experience. The freshness of the ingredients, the disposition of the line chefs and the professionalism of the service staff are a few of this issues facing a restaurant on a daily basis. At Purple Feet, cooking solely on the guidance (or lack of) from each guest can be a daunting experience for both cooks and diners--for the diner, helping shape his/her culinary expectations and for the chefs having to meet those expectations without the safety net of a set menu to fall back on. Chef Marco and his kitchen staff should be admired for even attempting to please the picky whims of Manila's dining public at every service.

Dining at Purple Feet is very much like a dance. You choose the song and the Purple Feet's chefs lead you through the steps. Many times you walk away feeling like you've waltzed with Fred Astaire. Every bite, a flawless movement. But other times, you stumble off the dance floor with two, very sore, left feet. An overcooked piece of meat here, over-seasoned sauce there and all your expectations of a fabulous culinary adventure come to an abrupt end.

To paraphrase Forrest Gump, Purple Feet is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you are gonna get. In my opinion, it's still worth coming back, hoping to savor those perfect steps.

Purple Feet
217 Nicanor Garcia St. (formerly Reposo St.),
Bel-Air, Makati City.
Telephone: (02) 897 3220 or (02) 897 8167

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Tayo na sa Antipolo, Foodistas! by our Table Guests, The Manila Foodistas

On our way!An often overlooked aspect of the Filipino gastronomical experience is that of our street food. From your typical isaw & barbeque, to your fishball & squidball, and to the bibingka and puto bungbong that is reminiscent of cool December mornings and misa de gallo.

We had initially planned to write about the street food in and around University of the Philippines, Diliman, our own campus, but we decided, in the end, that we wanted to share with everyone something that is a bit less common and generic than the isaw, fishballs, etc. you find in UPD.Antipolo Church

And that is how we ended up piling into Harrell's van for a mini roadtrip to Antipolo. From UPD, Antipolo is about a 40-minute drive away, if there is little to no traffic. Antipolo, like most provincial cities and towns, has rather narrow roads. Parking is a bit difficult and while there are a lot of friendly townsfolk willing to help you find a place to park, most of them will invite you to buy their wares, which is what exactly happened to us. We didn't mind so much, however. We figure that, at least, we help them earn a bit more money, even if we do buy from them out of a feeling of "I scratch your back, you scratch mine".

Pasalubong CenterAfter paying a quick visit to the famous Antipolo Church, we trooped over to the Pasalubong Center located conveniently near the church. You can find kasuy and suman in just about every street corner, but the vendors who have booths in the Pasalubong Center boast the widest selection of food stuffs.

We were rather overwhelmed by the number of vendors and booths, so we decided to pick the vendor who gave us the friendliest smile. We explained to Manang Vangie that we were there to write an article on Antipolo street food and she was more than willing to answer our questions and walk us through her wares.

Manang VangieWalking back to our vehicle, we passed through the newly constructed park/plaza (formerly the parking area in front of the church), where there were even more booths. The booths here were per barangay, each selling their own signature products. We bought some sapin-sapin and what the girl called putong bungang-kahoy (something none of us have tried or heard of before).

We have to mention this display at the center of the park/plaza of a wooden structure bearing the words "Tayo Na Sa Antipolo" with little suman men running around it and the Mr. Suman and Ms. Kasuy statues flagging both ends of it. We found both of these extremely amusing, and couldn't help but stop to take some photos with them. More than the amusement, we're very glad for Antipolo, that they're investing more on their tourism. Especially so, now that it's May and many people are heading to Antipolo to visit the church.

MF @ AntipoloKat, Tiff, Bong and Harrell

PiayaPiaya, or brown sugar pie, is flat, flaky, unleavened bread filled with muscovado (raw, unprocessed) sugar. This is actually a product of Bacolod, but the Foodistas are rather fond of piaya, so we decided to give the sort made in Antipolo a shot. It was thinner than your typical Bacolod piaya and it didn't have sesame seeds sprinkled atop it. Although the filling was definitely less than the usual, this was still very good. We've honestly never went wrong with any sort of piaya, though.

Suman & Coco JamAntipolo's suman is easily one of the best we've all ever had. One thing about suman is that it's rare that you encounter one so good that you can eat it all on it's own. This one, though, was so good that we can be perfectly content eating it without feeling the need for extra sweetness/flavour.

We, of course, had ours with coconut jam. In Joey's opinion, it's the best way to have your suman: Spoon a bit of coconut jam on to your suman and bite into it sarap! The homemade coco jam from Antipolo is not as sweet as most coco jams tend to be, and it had a very thick, sticky consistency. Like the suman, it's perfect all on its own. This is the kind that you can put on justSapin-sapin about anything: from suman to monay and even to sapin-sapin (we kid you not Harrell tried it out of curiosity and he liked it).

Sapin-sapin, like suman, is one of the more popular Filipino desserts/kakanin. It consists of three flavoured layers of sticky rice cake: typically ube, kutsinta and macapuno. It's then topped with latik, which is basically what's left of the coconut once you've extracted its oil. The one from the Barangay Dalig booth wasn't as sweet as most sapin-sapin we've had before and there was a generous layer of latik on top. This was only Php 5 a slice very cheap!

KasuyThe kasuy (cashew nuts) of Antipolo were also one of the best we've ever had. They were wonderfully roasted and thankfully unsalted. Tiffy says she can eat bags of these at a time, if she could, especially since they were without any additional flavourings.

KalamayThe kalamay was wrapped in layers of fragrant banana leaf. Eating the kalamay is a wonderful experience: once you've unwrapped it, you gently scrape it off the leaf with your teeth and you're tickled by the fragrance of banana leaf. The Antipolo kalamay isn't very sweet and it's texture is quite firm and not very sticky, which we liked very much. It's great even without latik. (NB: Kalamay de Antipolo is Joey's favourite variety of kalamay.)

Putong bungang-kahoyPutong bungang-kahoy was probably the one low note of our experience. It smells rather funny (earthy and slightly pungent) and it was hard, dry and tasteless. The filling of caramelized dessicated coconut was a bit dodgy. Kat found the filling was too strong. Bong says he liked the idea of it, but the execution wasn't so great.


We had tonnes of fun doing this feature of Antipolo street food. The weather was perfect, if a bit rainy in the beginning. The trip there was a bit of an adventure and the company was, of course, great. If you're contemplating going on a day trip, we definitely think you should consider going to Antipolo, if you want a change from the usual Tagaytay, Laguna or Batangas options.

Thank you for having us, Table for Three, Please! ♥

MF LadiesMF Men
Manila Foodistas at Antipolo


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Foodistas present: Bong, Harrell, Joey, Kat and Tiffy.
Photography by Joey.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Table Conversation: The Miele Guide

Table Suggestions: <span class=

It's about setting a standard.

Aun Koh (aka Chubby Hubby), Tan Su-Lyn and their associates at Ate Media are publishing an independent restaurant guide similar to the Michelin Guide called the The Miele Guide. But unlike the Euro-American centric Michelin, the Miele Guide with focus on the best of Asia.

If you follow foreign food publications, you would have noticed that Asian restaurants and food establishments tend to be under-publicized. Most restaurant guides or lists that claim to present the world's best seem to only skim the surface of the culinary talent that exists in Asia. And in the case of the Philippines, we are practically ignored.

This is why I'm excited by idea behind the Miele Guide. Besides annually ranking the twenty best restaurants in Asia, the Guide will also run down the best in each participating country, including the Philippines. Placing our contributions to the gastronomical world front and center. It has the potential to become the definitive guide to dining in Asia. A guide created by Asians, highlighting the best of Asia and setting the standard for all Asian dining.
“We want to create a credible, transparent system through which to showcase establishments that deliver excellence and exceptional dining by Asian standards. We hope that The Miele Guide will not only accurately reflect the opinions of Asia’s most respected restaurant writers, but more importantly, capture public opinion. It is vital that The Miele Guide reflects the tastes of the dining public in Asia,”
- Aun Koh, Director of Ate Media Pte Ltd
This is a real opportunity to place a spotlight on the culinary talent in the Philippines. In my opinion, many local chefs and restaurant establishments have gone unacknowledged for much too long. Here is an opportunity to change that. Click here for more information.

Vote now at www.mieleguide.com

Thank you to Tan Su Lyn for the cover photo

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Table Suggestions: The Truth About Tsumura

Table Suggestions: <span class=
A selection of sashimi from Tsumura

Truth be told, it takes a lot to get me excited about eating out.

I have been very fortunate to have eaten in some amazing places. But eating out hasn't always been a stellar experience. Most restaurants have been fairly run-of-the-mill. Sadly, some have been like trying to endure what I call gastronomical purgatory. Those meals, I try very, very hard to forget.

Once in a while, a select few fall into a special category. Tsumura is easily a member of this group that can only be labelled as simply food nirvana.

Before I move on, let me address the issue of price.

I've heard the puns. Tsumura is anything but mura or cheap. In fact, it should be called Tsumahal. I won't deny it. The prices are on the higher end of the scale. But it's not as exorbitant as one would imagine. In fact, if you avoid the overtly premium items like the imported toro sushi at P400/piece or the P16,000 bottle of sake, your bill will be comparable to having eaten in any fine dining restaurant in Manila.

As my friend, Sharkey would have called it, Tsumura is simply a 'value for money' dining experience. The pristine quality of the ingredients, the craftsmanship that goes into the preparation and plating of the dishes and higher standards of service can easily justify the prices.

If Japan had a signature dish, it would be sashmi. Nothing captures the gastronomical essence and culinary vibe of Japanese cuisine better than a beautiful crafted platter of immaculately sliced, fresh seafood. In my mind, any Japanese establishment can be judged solely by how they serve this dish of subtle refinement.

Needless to say, A and I decide that sashmi would be the best way to begin our dinner. Tsumura did not disappoint. A pristine dish arrives at our table. On this circular platter is a vast array of seafood resting on a bed of glass noodles: slices of toro, salmon, yellow fin and mackerel, slivers of cuttlefish and octopus and little mound of sea urchin. It's almost too lovely to eat. But overcome with hunger, we tuck in and gingerly taking the dish apart piece by flavorful piece. Every bite is a taste of the sea. Clean. Uncomplicated. Every piece of sashmi reveals the understated textures and flavors specific to each piece. Every slice almost seems to melt in your mouth. Simply food nirvana.

Tsumara has ruined me.

I'll never be able to eat sashimi anywhere else again, without comparing it to the sublime and elegant experience that is Tsumura.

Tsumura Sushi Bar and Restaurant
2/F 88 Corporate Center
Sedeno corner Valero Streets
Salcedo Village, Makati City
Telphone: (02) 887 4848- 50

Thursday, May 15, 2008

The Travelling Table: Shopping for Jungle Caviar

The Travelling Table: <span class=
Abuos: The Jungle's Caviar

It's Tuesday morning in Ilocos Norte.

We are on our way to Paoay. Internationally famous for the St. Augustine Church, a World Heritage Site, Paoay is more popular with locals for its bi-weekly market: a gathering place for farmers, craftsmen, weavers, and fishermen to sell their produce and wares to an eager buying public. Every Tuesday and Saturday, buyers and sellers come together in a frenzied exchange of commerce.

As we enter the market, A and I part ways. She goes off with our Sitio Remedios host to buy tablecloths, napkins and blankets while I set my sights on the fresh produce on sale. Time to pull out the camera and explore.

What seems like little white pebbles neatly arranged on heart-shaped leaves are actually ant eggs called abous. This rare Ilocano delicacy is collected by farmers using the technique employed by bee keepers. By smoking out the ant colony, the ants become more docile and less likely to attack. While the ants are in this trance-like state, the farmers are carefully able to collect this precious, little pearls of jungle caviar.

The Travelling Table: <span class=
Fish Out of Water: Sun Dried and Salted Fish

Ilocos is blessed with an abundance of seafood. But since refrigeration is not always available, other means of preservation are necessary. Salting and drying are usually the methods of choice. From small, whole shrimps called Kurus to larger fish like Cabballes, once caught, they are cleaned, salted and laid out to dry in the hot Ilocos sun.

The Travelling Table: <span class=
Seaweed: The Sea's Salad

In the early mornings along the beaches of Currimao, shallow bancas would congregate just off-shore. During the morning's low tide, fisher folk are able to reach down and harvest the rich array of seaweed growing on the sea floor. I've eaten my fair share of seaweed but the variety available at Paoay market is simply astounding. From the more widely available, grape-like ar-arusip to the more native, twig-like pokpoklo, I'm fascinated by these emerald bounties of the sea. I feel just like a kid visiting an aquarium.

The Travelling Table: <span class=
Local Sweets and Snacks: All Made of Rice

I'm not a big fan of rice cakes. But here in Ilocos, to not have a taste in one form or another is nearly impossible. The sheer array of shapes, sizes, colors and wrappings overwhelm my sense of curiosity that I find myself trying every glutinous concoction presented to me. On offer at the market weren't only the more popularly known rice treats like kutsinta and puto but also more indigenous creations: like the impaltao, a pillow-like purse filled with glutinous rice, wrapped in stripes of banana leaf and boiled in a syrup of sugarcane or the linapet, a triangular shaped delicacy of glutinous rice sweetened with molasses and coconut oil.

The Travelling Table: <span class=
A Weave for Our Host, Dr Joven Cuanang

Leave it A. to find the local fashion industry--or at least locally-made raw materials. Abel Iloko are hand-loomed cloths, proudly made in the Ilocos provinces. Used as tablecloths, napkins, blankets, towels and even everday clothing, abel can be a bit stiff and rough at first. But over time and with proper care, the fabric softens, becoming light and airy to the touch. Some abel iloko are so intricately made that they are considered family heirlooms and are passed down from one generation to the next.

What did I bring back in my shopping bayong? Needless to say, a heavy pile of tablecloths, napkins and towels care of A, a couple of large, dark clay cooking pots for my mom's kitchen and a camera full of captivating memories to share.

Once again, thank you to Rene Guatlao, the font of Ilocadia knowledge.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Table Recipes: Dark Chocolate Orange Ice Cream

Table Recipes: Dark Chocolate Orange Ice Cream

It started with a text message.

"We loved the Chocolate Caramel Ice Cream. Thanks. :) But can you make a Chocolate Orange Ice Cream?" the message said. I love a challenge.

Making the chocolate base of this ice cream is easy enough. I've done that more times than my expanding belly would care to remember. But how to achieve the orange flavor? For answers, I turn to my friend, Stich and his wife, M. I know for a fact that this couple, being avid home bakers, have made amazing Chocolate Orange Cookies in the past. With that experience, I'm hoping that they can help me crack this little conundrum.

Since I have never tasted Chocolate Orange Ice Cream, I asked M. what exactly it was. An ice cream with a chocolate base and an undertone of orange flavoring? Or an orange ice cream with chocolate chips? M. answer, "Most definitely the former."

Next question: How do I achieve the orange flavor without overpowering the chocolate? Initially, I was thinking about using freshly squeezed orange juice for flavor and orange rind for aroma and color. Stich sets me straight. He suggests using orange extract instead orange juice. "You don't need more water in the mix, right?" he adds. I agree.

Using David Lebovitz's Chocolate Ice Cream recipe as a starting point, I get to work.
Dark Chocolate Orange Ice Cream
Adapted from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz
  • 2 1/4 cups heavy cream
  • 6 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
  • 1/2 teaspoon of orange extract
  • Grated zest of 1 orange, preferably unsprayed
  • Pinch of salt
In a medium saucepan, whisk together the cream, cocoa powder, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil.

Remove from heat and grate the orange directly over the cream mixture.

Add chocolate and whisk until melted. Add in milk, orange and vanilla extract.

Pour the mixture into a blender and blend for 30 seconds, until smooth.

Chill the mixture in the refrigerator, then freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes about 1 litre
After letting the ice cream set overnight in the freezer, I give it a try. It tastes exactly as it was described to me. A velvety smooth dark chocolate flavor first presents itself. It is quickly followed by the sublime aroma and flavor of freshly sliced oranges that lingers as you take your next bite.

I admit I prefer my chocolate straight up and unadulterated by other flavorings or add-ins. But after having a scoop of this ice cream, I may have to reconsider that preference.

For the inspiration and suggestions, many thank to Stich and M.

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Table Recipes: Ribs with Black Vineger Sauce

Ribs with Black Vinegar Sauce

I have never meet Cecilia Au-Yang, until I opened my copy of this month's Gourmet.

Dubbed as the Julia Child of Hong Kong, she has written forty books on regional Chinese cooking and is the Managing Director of the Chopsticks Cooking Centre, a culinary haven for those looking to discover and deepen their understanding of the gastronomical delights of Chinese cuisine.

As part of this feature, the editors of Gourmet have added a recipe I just couldn't resist. For better or for worse, I love pork. And since my cooking palette of late has been favoring the flavors of Asia, this dish was literally calling out to me to try.

Some quick notes. I lengthened the cooking time suggested in the original recipe. Simply because, the locally available pork requires it in order to achieve the tenderness I like for my ribs. Given the longer cooking time, I have added a third of a cup of water to final braising, to avoid burning the sauce. Feel free to add more if necessary.
Ribs with Black Vinegar Sauce
Adapted from Cecilia Au-Yang, Chopsticks Cooking Centre, Hong Kong

  • 2 lbs pork spareribs, cut into individual ribs
  • 1/4 cup cornstarch
  • 3 cups peanut or vegetable oil for frying
  • 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 1 small onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons ginger, julienned into thin matchsticks
  • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • 2 tablespoons Chinese Shaoxing wine
  • 1/3 cup chicken broth
  • 1/3 cup Chinese black vinegar
  • 1/3 cup soy sauce
  • 1/3 cup water
Boil ribs in stock pot of water for 30 minutes over low heat. Remove and dry.

In a large bowl, mix together the cornstarch and salt. Add the ribs, toss and lightly cover with cornstarch mixture.

In a frying pan or a heavy pot, heat the oil. Fry the ribs until medium golden brown. Cook in batch if necessary. About 5 minutes per batch. Once done, remove the ribs from the oil and set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan. Add garlic, shallot and ginger. Stir frequently. Cook until a light, golden brown. Add the sugar. Continue stirring. Once dissolved, add the rice wine and bring to boil.

Add the ribs along with the broth, vinegar, water and soy sauce. Bring to a simmer and cover. Occasionally, stir the sauce and turn the ribs over. Cook for 1 1/2 hours over low heat.

Transfer ribs to a serving platter and whisk sauce over high heat until a syrup-like consistency. Pour over ribs and serve.

Serves 4
This recipe is amazing. The tender pork ribs are covered in a glaze of black vinegar that is both sweet and sour at the same time. As suggest by Gourmet, serve with white rice so that you can soak up every drop of this lovely, flavorful sauce.

Having eaten this dish, I've decided to save up. It's time to meet Cecilia and learn the secrets of Chinese cuisine from a master.

Many thanks to Bing, my ever ready photo assistant.

Friday, May 2, 2008

Table Conversation: Manila's Best Pizza

Fiori Di Zucca from Cibo
Fiori Di Zucca from Cibo: Mozzarella, Squash Flowers and Anchovies

Pinoys are Pizza crazy.

From a chain or a high-end Italian eatery, we just can't get enough of this flat (sometimes), round (sometimes), oven-baked bread covered in toppings ranging from the traditional (tomatoes, cheeses and herbs ) to absurd (pineapple, cottage cheese and fish roe). Deep dish, thin or think crust. Neopolitan, Sicilian or Lazio. Caruso, Cibo or Shakey's. It really doesn't matter when or where from. We just love our pizza.

So here is the question. When you want a pizza, who do you call, where do you go and what do you order?

Mariko says:

I love Shakey's Pepperoni crunch on a thin crust (if I wanted a thick crust, I would order a sandwich!). With extra crunch, please!

I've only tried it once, but I also think the Milan Pizza at California Pizza Kitchen is delicious. Thin crust with Italian sausage, wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, Fontina, Mozzarella, and Parmesan cheese, and fresh basil.

Margaux Salcedo says:


For a chain restaurant, I like Brooklyn Pizza and for a stand alone, Puccini.

I always order a four or five cheese or whatever's closest to it. Except at Shakey's where I order the garlic and cheese.

Monchu says:

I'd have to go with Yellow Cab and Cantinetta.

At Yellow Cab, I like the everything on it. But usually, I just order the four cheese with extra cheese and anchovies. And yes, I can finish one pizza, and two cans of coke in one sitting. At Cantinetta, I like four cheese. So, it's basically the same order.

Chef Marco Legasto of Purple Feet says:

Carruso along Reposo Street (aka. Nicanor Garcia) is good. They have a wood fire oven and its run by an Italian. I always find a freshly made pie from Brooklyn Pizza great.

Stich says:

Brooklyn Pizza for huge, NY style Pizzas. And with a variant named "Porko", c'mon! How can I resist?

I still like A Venetto for cheap pizzas. They aren't the best out there, but they've been consistent in terms of providing value for money.

Sharlene Tan, associate food editor of Yummy says:

I love California Pizza Kitchen. My favorites are the White Pizza--a five cheese pizza (made with Mozzarella, Fontina, Ricotta, Parmesan and Pecorino Romano cheeses) with sauteed spinach and applewood smoked bacon, and the Vegetarian Pizza with Japanese Eggplant. I always get them in honey wheat dough just to make me less guilty about the calories.

As for restaurants, I always go to Cafe Caruso in Reposo, Makati for their four-flavors-in-one pizza (have to check what it is called exactly). I make sure to include the Quattro Formaggi and Prosciutto with Mushrooms in my choices.

Christine of Ramblings of A Gypsy Soul says:

I judge a pizza by it's crust (this is really 50% of a pizza), it's gotta be good enough to eat on its own, and the freshness or quality (and not quantity) of it's ingredients. I'm not much of a 'everything-on-it' kinda gal. Having said that, I do have my favorites in the city.

In the chain pizza category , well that's a tough one, I have 3 favorites (Magoo's Joey's Special, Yellow Cab's Roasted Garlic and Shrimp & Brooklyn Pizza's White Pizza) and I love them equally. But if I were forced to choose just one then I'd go with Brooklyn Pizza's white pizza. It has no tomato sauce, just good quality cheeses which I believe are mozzarella, ricotta and parmesan. The crust is crisp yet chewy and.. ohhhh the cheese! It's truly heaven on a pie for cheese lovers like me. If you haven't already tried it, please don't take my word for it and go have some now!

Pizza from a stand alone restaurant, hmmm. Do panizzas count? Because I am absolutely smitten with the Panizzas of C' Italian Dining in Angeles City. The panizza is Chef Chris' own unique creation. It's basically a thin-crusted rectangular pizza with choice toppings (there are about a dozen combinations) sliced into strips. You take a strip, top it with arugula and alfalfa sprouts, drizzle with pesto (or not, your choice) then roll it up, and prepare to be blown away!

Many thanks to Stich, Margaux, Christine, Chef Marco and Sharlene