Table Recipes: Green Mango Sorbet

We love mangoes.

Because of this love and a sheer lack of EQ, A. and I just can't seem to wait for our mangoes to ripen to a bright, sunny yellow. Instead, we find ourselves cutting our green, unripe mangoes into finger-like pieces, dipping them in our favorite spicy/salty bagoong (shrimp paste) and savoring every bite. The sour of the green mangoes, along with the salty and spicy flavors of the bagoong make for a delightful explosion of tastes and textures. Few things say summer like this dish.

Since this is the season when mangoes are at their prime, I decide that it was time to do some experimenting. It's time to create a Green Mango Sorbet. After a quick search, I'm quite surprised to learn that there are no recipes for a Green Mango Sorbet on the web. Shocking because, I know that many of the finer restaurants in the Philippines have been making this dessert for some time. Undaunted, I turn to my frozen desserts guru, David Lebovitz. Although Mr. Lebovitz doesn't have a recipe specific to my needs, I decide that his Mango Sorbet recipe is great jumping off point. Since alcohol tends to intensify in flavor in sorbets, I have omitted it this recipe and substitute a light corn syrup instead. The unripened mangoes stand up well against the added sweetness of the corn syrup. In fact, corn syrup helps balance out the flavors of this sorbet.

Green Mango Sorbet
Adapted from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz

3 large, unripe mangoes (about 1 kg)
2/3 cup white sugar
2/3 cup water
4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon of light corn syrup
Pinch of salt

• Peel the mangoes and slice the flesh away from the pit.*
• Cut the flesh into chucks. Place the chopped flesh in a blender with the rest of the ingredients.
• Puree the mixture until smooth.
• Place the mixture in refrigerator and chill thoroughly
• Freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions

*Optional: Reserve some slivers of mango peel, finely mince and add to the mixture during churning.

Makes about 1 litre

With all do respect to all mango producing nations, I believe that the Philippines grows the best mangoes out there. I would strongly recommend that only Philippine Mangoes be used in this recipe. I cannot guarantee the end results if any substitute mangoes are used.

You have been warned.

On the Table: Chef Marco Legasto

He calls it Freestyle Cooking. During every service, Chef Marco Legasto and his team of intrepid cooks perform gastronomical magic. Without the guidance of a set menu, they create amazing dishes tailor-made to his guests' tastes, whims and desires. Chef Marco's culinary star is definitely on the rise. A meal at Purple Feet isn't one to be missed and comes highly recommended. We strongly suggest you make your reservations and make them soon.

Who in your life has influenced your baking the most?

Probably my cooking influence came from my grandmother. She used to cook a lot. Maybe, my dad also has a big influence as well. He used to invent dishes by mixing whatever ingredients he would finds in the market and on our travels He loved experimenting. Not all his experiments were good but he had more hits then misses. Another might be my mom. She used to cook traditional dishes that I love as well.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

I don't read cook books. I do browse food encyclopedias to see the different ingredients I should try. I've read a few autobiographies. The book I enjoyed reading the most was about Chef Marco Pierre White.

What was your first job in the food business?

Before I went to the United Kingdom, I was cooking in a small restaurant I had with a friend. It closed down. But professionally, I started the real hard work in the UK where I studied and had a part time job first as a bartender for a month. I moved jobs when I found an opening in a hotel kitchen. I started as a steward cleaning everything and worked my way up to executive chef in a short period of time.

When did you decide you wanted to open Purple Feet?

My partners and I have been talking about putting a restaurant up for quite a while, The idea died down and I even forgot about it and didn't expect much from it. Until last year, it was a big surprise for me that the place was all ready up and ready to start. We opened July 2007.

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

That's a hard question to answer. We don't have a specific menu but, I like our Prime Rib, blackened on the outside but raw on the inside. Just the way I like my meats. Two others would be the Smoked Baby Back Ribs or Lamb Shank. I could go on and on. I always make sure the dishes I bring out are dishes that I would love to eat myself. We make it a habit of trying everything we cook. My motto is if you don't like the taste of it, don't even dare serve it.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

I don't remember the name of the restaurant but the dish was a duck breast stuffed with goose liver and fresh truffles, wrapped in fennel and jamon serrano.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Depends on my mood, I guess. For japanese, its Kobikicho which is located on Legazpi Street in Makati. It's run by a friend who is the chef. All the ingredients are flown in from Japan. The only local item they have is the San Miguel Beer. Two other restaurants I like would be Kashmir and Korea Garden. I actually like a lot of restaurants in Manila.

What junk food do you love?

I'm a sucker for Mcdonalds fries, Cheetos Jalopeno and Pringles Guacamole or Original Flavor.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Bitter Gourd or Ampalaya. I don't really know why.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

Well, this restaurant is relatively new. I want to do a lot of things that are still locked away in my brain. We planning on doing different concepts for the other Wine Depot branches. We have a lot of events lined up like wine dinners whenever a wine maker comes to the country. These events are actually great value for money.

Purple Feet
217 Nicanor Garcia Street
Bel-Air, Makati City
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 897 3220/ 897 8167

Where in the World is Ambos Mundos?

from top left, clockwise
Callos, Paella Ambos Mundos,
Interiors of Ambos Mundos, Exterior of Ambos Mundos

“Ambos Mundos? I ate there when I was a child.”

This is what my 79 year-old mother said to me when I told her that we were planning to eat at this century-old restaurant. “Didn’t think that they were still around…” my mom quips.

I have never hid the fact I love the small, the kitsch, the odd and the out-of-the-way. Because this restaurant is older the most lolos and lolas, I couldn't help but get excited at the prospect of dining on dishes that my mother tried in her youth. How many restaurants can claim to have survived the finicky tastes of Manileno diners for over a century? Needless to say, I am prepared to go to great lengths for an interesting dining experience. I am hoping that Ambos Mundos is that and more.

Ambos Mundos is small restaurant in heart of the city of Manila. Opening its doors in the late 1800s, the restaurant was originally owned by the Gaudinez family. Now located near the corner of C. Recto and Florentino Torres Street, it still maintains the air of old Manila--an eclectic blend of Hispanic colonial, Chinese utilitarian and Filipino warmth. Diners are immediately struck by great number of animals in and around the restaurant including two very well-fed, snoring boars, a snake (on the second floor) and several tanks of unusual looking fish.

"Sorry, Sir/Ma'am, not for eating," says Polly, our server, who seems as ancient as the restaurant itself. "The owner likes collecting animals," the old-timer adds.

Walking into Ambos Mundos reminds me of a tea house in Binondo with a touch of the Iberian. Decorated simply, the first floor is left open to the street and cooled by old-style ceiling and wall fans. Inside the restaurant are wooden chairs with the dark varnish chipping away, tables covered in aqua and red tablecloths a bit worn out from too many washings and dusty, capiz Tiffany lamps, oddly placed near the entrace of the restaurant which is the brightest spot. The walls are adorned with old Spanish bullfight posters, old Armosolo-esque paintings and framed newspaper articles highlighting the charms of Ambos Mundos.

The food is mostly a melding of Spanish recipes tweaked to Pinoy tastes and are predominantly sweet or spicy. It is, after all, called Ambos Mundos or Both Worlds, a coming together of old and new world flavors. So if you are coming here thinking that you'll be having a meal of authentic Spanish cuisine from a bygone age, think again.

First to arrive at our table is the specialty of the house, the Paella Ambos Mundos (P370). Served in a hot cast-iron pan, this small hill of bright red-orange paella is served with a generous topping of crabs, shrimps, mussels, chunks of fried pork, slices of hard-boiled eggs and clams. So generous are the toppings that they almost eclipse the rice completely. Once we got over our shock, A. and I tucked in. The paella is nothing like one would expect. The rice is mushy and almost soup-like. The entire dish is covered in a tomato sauce which leaves an odd reddish sheen on all the ingredients. A cover-up, we surmise, for one too many reheatings. Sadly, after a few bites, all we can taste is the spicy tomato sauce. Lost in the wave of red are flavors of the pork, seafood and eggs.

While we were still dissecting our mountain of paella (as to avoid spilling all the seafood on our much too small table), our order of Lengua Estofada (P220) joins the party. For those of you unfamiliar with the dish, a Lengua Estofada is stew of beef or ox tongue, cut into thin portions and slowly braised in a tomato-based broth until the cuts of tongue are soft to the bite. The lengua comes practically submerged in its own sauce. You almost want to ask, "Where's the beef?" Biting into the tongue (pun intended) I find this cut of meat, tender and distinctive in taste and texture. The accompanying sauce is flavorful and yet not overpowering. A. is not a fan of ox tongue, as I imagine many people are not. And although this was not the prettiest of dishes, it was one that seriously enjoyed consuming by myself.

Callos (P240) is a revered traditional Spanish dish. A stew of ox tripe and legs, chorizo, and chickpeas, all in a rich, spicy tomato sauce...once again. And here lies the problem. Having specifically ordered some of the house favorites, we had inadvertently ordered all dishes with the same tomato-based sauce. Once this dish is served at our table, our palates are so exhausted from the previous entrees that all we can taste is spicy tomato. And besides, the bowl was dominated by a large, nearly meatless bone joint and had only a few slivers of tripe. Two red dishes are tolerable. The third was a mistake.

There are many reasons why people dine out. One of the reasons why I enjoy eating out is the possibility of a gastronomical adventure. Ideally, from the moment you enter a restaurant until you step out, a diner should feel enriched and entertained, fully satisfied by the experience. Most of the excitement of this particular food trip was in getting there, the adventure of it all. With the price of an LRT train ticket, you are taken out of your comfort zone and transported to place you knew existed but never really truly explored.

I wanted to love this restaurant, if only because of its rich, historical tradition. But in the end, it still must be about the food.

My advice to would-be diners: Come for a taste of the history. Take in the sights, sounds and smells while navigating through downtown Manila. Enjoy the experience of Ambos Mundos but leave your culinary expectations at the door. Or at least, avoid ordering too much red.

Thank you to Carlos for walking us the right way.

Ambos Mundos
750 Florentino Torres
Sta, Cruz, Manila
Telephone: (02) 734 1160

The Travelling Table: The Daklis

In the heat of the Daklis: Reeling in the catch

It's our last full day in Ilocos Norte.

A and I have decided that we would spend the day enjoying our resort, Sitio Remedios. We would enjoy the beach, get a massage, catch up on our reading and of course, stuff our faces silly. Essentially, we would take in everything that makes Sitio Remedios such an amazing destination.

While we were tucking into our mid-afternoon snack of mangoes and a myriad of rices cakes like Impalatao, Linapet and Bingkat (our fourth meal of the day), something by the seaside catches our eye. A line of men, women and even children begins to form, tugging on a rope of red. Upon closer inspection, what seemed to be a rope has become a wide, scarlet-colored, nylon fishing net.

The line of people grows even longer. The heaving is steady and coordinated, punctuated by shouts of ohs and ahhs. There is excitement in the air and it is infectious.

From top left, clockwise

The long, red line, Sorting the catch,

Fish in a basket, Staking their claims

They call it the Daklis.

During the week, the men of Currimao will set out a large fishing net in the early morning. Spreading it out in as wide an area as possible. The net is guarded by a lone fisherman who sits on a raft attach to the apex of net. He sits, waits and watches while the hot morning sun beats down.

Years of experience have taught these fisher folk when to reel in their catch. And that moment has now arrived. Without missing a step, the men grab hold of thick ropes attached to the net and begin to pull. As they tug, they shout in unison. This is not only for encouragement but also to maintain the coordination of their movements so as not to damage their straining nets filled the sea's bounty.

As the net slowly comes closer to shore, the women take their place in the line of fishermen and start to heave. The net inches forward. Little boys and girls laugh in anticipation, wiggle their way the ropes and try to help out. A fiesta-like atmosphere is now in full swing.

The pulling becomes urgent and begins to quicken.

From top left, clockwise
Weighing the day's efforts, Picking up the strays,
Taking account of the shares, Getting ready for tomorrow

After what seems an eternity, a silver flicker appears on the water. The flicker slowly grows into explosion of activity as fish of all shapes, colors and size struggle to break free. To no avail. There is a sudden sudden surge as men and women gather around the catch and begin to divide up the spoils. First to go, the much larger fish: the Dorado, Caballes and Sindingan, bought up by our triumphant host who declares, "Here's dinner!" Next, the smaller fish like the abundant Munamom are divided among the women who sort, measure and haul off their share to the market. The owner of the fishing net takes notes of what is owed and negotiates with arriving middlemen.

While the adults do business, some children have grand time picking up the stray fish left behind. They play, holding their catch in their hands or creating little ponds in the sand. Older boys and girls watch and learn from the adults, knowing that they will have their turn soon enough.

As the day comes to an end, the frenzied activity dies down. The lone fisherman who had spent his day vigilantly watching at sea, now untangles the net, spreads it on the shore and prepares it for the next Daklis.

Many thanks to Rene Guatlo for letting us pick his brain.

The Great Escape

I may be a grown woman but I still suffer from unica hija syndrome.

A few months ago, I had this plan of going to Ambos Mundos with my family, to celebrate my dad's birthday. My parents have always been fans of hole-in-the-wall restos and roadside carinderias, so I thought a little Spanish resto tucked in a Manila side street was something my dad would enjoy.

I texted my dad, asking if he had heard of the place. “It's a hangout of seedy characters,” he warned me. I could hear his gruff voice and imagine his scowl as he said it. “Why?” was his next message. That single word is actually Daddy-speak for “Don't even think about going there, young lady."

And that was that. Of course, the idea of going to Ambos Mundos had been in my head for years, and I made some half-hearted plans with my friends on several occasions. I finally found the time and some willing eating companions, and decided to go one weekend. Er, without Daddy's knowledge, of course. His general concern for his daughter's safety, plus his many conspiracy theories would be enough to bring about an attack of stress. (And a bit of scolding. Embarrassing, given my age.)

I half-expected a four-table affair with minimal lighting—in my mind, the resto would have a banquet table in one corner with dim overhead lighting; the air would be thick with nicotine-laced fog exhaled by the smoking Mafia men, clad in white suits and fedoras. Beside these “seedy characters” would be women wearing flapper-style dresses and blood-red lipstick. And they would be chewing gum.

Instead, I walked into a two-storey structure, brightly lit, with a canteen-style counter and menu board, and a bibingka station up front. Two large black pigs (father and offspring) were at the entrance, grunting in their sleep. The pleasant waitress, Sagring, led us upstairs to the air-conditioned area. I had spoken to her earlier on the phone to get directions (commuting lightweight that I am), and she was almost exactly as I pictured her. Over the phone, she was very pleasant (and also somewhat confusing), instructing me to get off at the Isetan station and cross either Avenida or Rizal Ave. (depending on which LRT I alighted from). I normally end up reading maps in reverse, but thankfully, my friends were able to figure out that, after getting off at the Recto station of the LRT2, we had to cross over to the Isetan side, then walk a couple of blocks (crossing Rizal Ave.) til we reached Florentino Torres Street.

We were seated beside a table of old ladies—eating buddy P theorized that the Mafia men might come out after-hours. As it was, the only thing suspect was the house water.

Stay tuned for Franco's history lesson in an upcoming post. For now, let me focus on the food. The menu was extensive, and made more overwhelming by the fact that you could order stuff from the Chinese resto fronting Ambos Mundos. Based on some newspaper clippings, I gathered that in the old days, Ambos Mundos was actually known for its excellent Filipino food. But we came with Spanish food in mind, so we ordered--what else?--paella, picking the Paella Ambos (P390 for a small serving). It was loaded with sahog--crab, mussels, eggs, pork, tomatoes, so you get your money's worth. I did miss having chorizo in my paella though.

The Morcon (P227) on the menu also caught my eye. The first (and maybe the last) time I ever had morcon was nearly 20 years ago at a friend's house. Back then, I was a really picky eater, but since I was a guest, I had to politely eat what was served. Surprisingly, I really liked the dish, and when I asked my yaya if she could make it, she said, "Mabusisi!"

This morcon wasn't quite what I remembered having two decades ago--I was disappointed to see hotdogs in the middle, but realized later on that they were actually sausages.

We also had the Torta Alimango sa Talukay (P200), which seemed pretty pricey for one shell, but this was perhaps my favorite part of the meal. That itty-bitty crab had a lot of meat on it, and the top was deliciously crispy. I likened the crust to the yummy brownie corners that people always fight over.

We ended the meal with a freshly made Special Bibingka (P62) from the resto's bibingka station. It had the coconuttiest-tasting niyog I have ever had, and a sprinkling of sesame seeds added a new dimension to it; there was an interesting mix of textures as the sesame mixed together with the soft (and piping hot) rice cake.

My friends are keen on going back, with more friends in tow, but I'm happy with just this one visit. Perhaps next time, I would go to try the Chinese resto across the street.

No post about Ambos Mundos would be complete without a photo of one of their pigs. "Bunso 'yan," waiter Polly told me. "Tingnan mo o, wala pang pangil."

...Just don't tell Daddy.

Ambos Mundos
750-52 Florentino Torres St.,
Manila
Tel. (02) 733-6709

The Travelling Table: Salty Ilocos

Nino measure out our sack of sea salt

We are on our way to the beach.

After passing the town of Pasuquin on our way to Pagudpud, we come across a stretch of highway lined with shops selling one product, sea salt. Every shop is lined with shelves upon shelves of plastic bags filled with immaculately white, coursely grained salt. Of course, we immediately stop. The beach can wait.

A and I stop at this small nipa hut called the Salvacion Store and are met by the owner, Mrs. Salvacion Bulosan. Mrs. Bulosan informes us that most on the salt on display has been treated with iodine. Apparently, there is a local ordinance that requires that locally-produced salt must be sprayed with iodine for health purposes. But as any experienced cook will tell you, iodized salt when cooked not only tends to flavor food much saltier but also leaves a distintive chemical aftertaste. We ask if would be possible to purchase some non-iodized salt. She hesitates. But after a bit of discussion concerning the pros and cons of iodized salt, she relents and leads us to her store's salt works. It's a five-minute walk away.

The Evaporation Pans and Ovens

We walk down a short side road that opens up into a small plot of land. Here, we are greeted by Nino, Mrs. Bulosan's saltmaker. It's fairly obvious that they don't get many curious visitors. Still, Nino graciously lead us into another nipa structure filled with sacks of salt ready for shipment. After navigating the maze of salt sacks, we come upon the evaporation pans and ovens used in the making of their salt.

Mrs. Bulosan explains that sea water is pumped directly from the sea and kept in a holding tank on site for several hours. Once the sediments and impurities from sea water have settled at the bottom of tank, the sea water is carefully pumped into the waiting concrete evaporating pans. The sea water filled pans are heated by ovens directly underneth. Apparently, local government has banned the use of wood as the primary fuel source to fire up the ovens, so salt producers have to turned to use of the waste by-products created by the production of rice. Dried husks, leaves and stalks are all used. Overnight, the ovens heat the sea water until all that is left is white grainy residue called salt.

The owner, Mrs. Salvacion Bulosan

The large grains of salt are collected and refined until they are the required size. The salt is stored in holding areas opposite the ovens. In these holding area, the sea salt is sprayed with iodine weighted, measure and readied for shipment to wholesalers, restaurants and some curious passers-by.

I secretly pinch my fingers into this hill of sea salt. To have a quick taste. As I press the grains between my tongue and palete, they immediately melt away releasing a flavour that is unmistakably of the sea. This sea salt is salty, but far more subtle in taste compared to the iodized rock salt I grew up with.

For a 10 kg sack of non-iodized sea salt for P60, it was worth the stop. Just don't tell the authorities.

Salvacion Store
Brgy 9
Susugaen
Pasuquin, Ilocos Norte

On the Table: Ivan Man Dy

If you haven't heard of Ivan Man Dy's Binondo Food Wok, then we suggest you read his interview, click on the link and immediately sign up. On this walking food tour, Ivan takes foodies around Manila's Chinatown, feeding not only their stomachs with taste of Binondo but also captivating their minds with glimpses into Tsinoy culture and history. Ivan has found the perfect way to indulge a person's love of food, get a education about a much loved district of Manila and burn off calories all in span of an afternoon walk.



So Ivan, tell us a little about yourself.

My name is Ivan Man Dy. I am an operations manager by profession but on certain days, in fact, more than the time I should be spending time on my desk, I morph into a cultural guide taking people on historical, cultural and culinary walking tours around the nook and crannies of our city. I'm quite passionate about traveling and a lot that goes with it (including eating) but more than seeing food as just something to please the palette and fill my stomach, I also see it as an cultural subject, a means to understand one's heritage and identity as well as digging deeper to one's roots.

What is Old Manila Walks and how and why did it get started?

Old Manila Walks is a series of tours exploring the different facets and historic quarters of Manila. It started in late 2004 after several trips abroad which made me realize three things: One, that I could actually share my passion for my city (Manila) and people would care to listen; two, that I can use it a tool to for creating awareness for my advocacy on cultural heritage awareness; and three, that I can actually combine it with exercise, in this case walking, something which my father had nagged me to do for the longest time! To my surprise, people cared to listen (or maybe eat?) and my dad has stopped nagging ever since.

Given we are a food blog, your Big Binondo Food Wok piqued our interest. For those who have never done this tour, can you explain what this tour is about?

The BIG Binondo Food WOK is a cultural, historical, culinary WOK-ing tour of Binondo. For locals, it's essentially a rediscovery of this place which they've been going to all their lives which they thought was familiar with but this time, seeing it in a new light. For foreigners, it's another cultural dimension to Manila's multi-faceted character in what possibly is the oldest Chinatown in the world. You'd be surprised to know how this tour actually started out as an architectural walk but eventually morphed into a culinary one. For this particular tour, it takes food as a medium for sustenance as well as taste and relates to it to the history of the district, the Tsinoy community and ultimately to Manila itself.

What are the highlights of the Food Wok?

On the whole, I think the highlight of the BIG Binondo Food WOK is fishing out all those great culinary finds in Chinatown, it's like a walking lauriat with all the elements thrown in: good food, conversational pieces and a natural camaraderie that encourages interaction among fellow enthusiasts, oh, there's a dash of of cultural lessons too. It's not just about filling the tummy but also nourishing the soul.

Of all the stories you tell on your Wok, what stories are your favorites?

None in particular as they tie up and give substance to the WOK.

Since you give food tours of Binondo, we imagine that you know a lot of gastronomical treasuries that only locals would know, care to share?

Well, I'm not much of a shopper but of late, I've discovered that the food court of 168 Mall is a good source of cheap and tasty meals. Some of the foods there are not the type that you'd find in your average Chinese restaurant but a lot of quite authentic since theyre manned by newly-arrived Chinese immigrants.

When you eat in Binondo, what and where do you like to eat?

Where I eat would ultimately depend on what type of food I wold want for the moment. For my noodle fix, I like eating at Tasty Dumplings along Ongpin for their Taiwanese style Mami or to Lan Zhou noodle house along Benavides for their version of the hand-pulled noodes. It's very different from the regular beef-mami that everybody's familiar with and they have an all-you-can-put scallions or wansoy on the table to top off the very beefy broth! If it's old-timer taste, I go to Ma Su Ki along Benavides (check out their huge siomais!) or the original Ling Nam along Teodora Alonzo. Just across, Panciteria Lido serves up a very filling chami (stir-fried lomi). My list would also include Quick Snack along Carjvajal for sate noodles, lumpia and this very hard to find dish called 'lo-bihon' (think a thicker version of lomi but with bihon noodles instead) and Icefield Restaurant along Ongpin for their oyster omelet.

What non-foodie activities, should visitors not miss when walking the streets of Binondo?

If you are an architecture groupie, check out Binondo's eclectic collection of historic buildings from the ornate Bahay na Bato to the flamboyant Art Deco but if you really can't take your mind off food, then perhaps the next best thing to do is dive-in the culinary shopping scene! Check the colorful street markets along Ongpin, Nueva, Salazar, Carvajal, Benavides, Teodoro Alonzo etc, they're chock full of stores and hawkers selling food stuffs that's guaranteed to make you go home with your tummy smiling with a big loot in tow. Binondo is really more of an experiential place, yes, it has sights but its more of the the buzz, the sound, the history, the smell and the culinary treats all of which are tossed up in one big flavorful pot that will surely leave a memorable taste to anyone who walk through her streets.

Just between us, what are the future plans for Ivan Man Dy and Old Manila Walks?

On the menu: more explorations of the old city including a possible second serving of the Binondo Food WOK or something architectural on Malate...that is is if our feet doesn't calloused with treading from one broken pavement to another.

Old Manila Walks
Telephone: (02) 711 3823
Cel Phone: (0917) 329 1622
Email: oldmanilawalks2@gmail.com
Contact Ivan or Cherry

The Travelling Table: Northern Eats

from top left, clockwise
Pokpoklo from Sitio Remedios, KBL from Sitio Remendios,
Poqui-Poqui from Kusina Felicitas, Bagnet from La Preciosa

Sometimes, my ignorance astonishes me.

If you asked me about the Ilocos region before this trip, all I could tell you is what I learned about in grade school. It is composed of two provinces, Ilocos Norte and Ilocos Sur, located in the north-western part of the Luzon, the largest island of the Philippine archepelago. Main provincial products: Tabacco and Corn. Weather: hot, dry and somewhat arrid. In short, pratically nothing.

So when A. suggested we take a trip north, I was a bit skeptical. Mostly because of my lack of information about anything beyond Baguio and partly because, I knew that if we drove north, it would a very, very long road trip. But after a little bit of persistent persuasion (see kulit) courtesy of A, a bit of research on the web and some helpful suggestions from very well-informed acquaintances, we packed our bags, gassed up the car and traveled Ilocos bound.

After nine hours of driving, A. and I arrive at our first destination, the city of Vigan. I wish I could say that we immediately took in the historical sights of city. But it’s noon. And after sitting in a car for most of the morning, I’m looking to reward myself with my first authentic Ilocano meal. So after we leave our vehicle with the kind people of Villa Angela, we hop on a tricycle and head directly to Kusina Felicitas.

Located inside a hotel called GrandPa’s Inn, Kusina Felicitas claims to serve authentic Ilocano cuisine. But as soon as we enter, we are immediately ushered out and sent to another restaurant, Café Uno. We find out later that Kusina Felicitas and Café Uno (including the Uno Grill across the street) are owned and operated by GrandPa’s and are serviced by the same kitchen. Fine. Whatever. Just as long as we get our Ilocano fix. (I get cranky when I’m hungry.)

After a quick perusal of their menu, we ignore all the European, Asian and Tagalog dishes on offer and center our attention on the three pages of Mak-Makan ti Ilocos.

We start with a dish with an unusual name, Poqui-poqui (P75). Described in the menu as a Ilocano omelet of eggplant, this dish reminds me more of Tortang Talong, a popular dish of pan-fried aubergine, topped with ground beef and coated in thin layer of egg wash. Honestly, I don't particularly like Tortang Talong. Or more precisely, I am not a fan of any aubergine dish. Until I try this one. Made up of eggs, tomatoes, onions sauteed with roughly chopped grilled eggplant, this scrambled mixture is not much to look at but its smells and tastes are hard to resist. I end up finishing the whole plate.

It almost seems a sacrilege to have an Ilocano meal without Bagnet (P160). A and I weren't going to have a first authentic Ilocano meal without it. To describe this dish as merely deep fried pork belly would be an insult to those who have put in the time and effort to create this dish. Bagnet is all about the process. First, the pork belly is boiled in salt water to soften. It is then taken out and made to rest. Slowly deep fried in oil. Again, taken out to rest. Chopped into bite sized cubes. And right before serving, the Bagnet is quickly deep fried again to heat and crisp. Once served, you end up with crunchy, golden brown cubes of sinful pork deliciousness. Bagnet is often served with a side dish of KBL which stands for Kamatis, Bagoong and Lasona (tomatoes, fish sauce and shallots), a perfect complement to the fatty Bagnet, because of its intensely sharp salty, sour taste. Being the pork lovers that we are, this wouldn't be our last serving of the lovely Bagnet. In fact, this dish would be a welcome constant culinary companion on our trip.

Always wanting to trying the unusual, I order the Ginisar nga Ipon (P150). Ipon is a small, seasonal fish, indigenous to the region. Only available between the months of October and February, we somehow luck out and are able to sample this dish in March. Thank you to the Ilocano food gods. Fried in a pan with tomatoes, onions and eggs, this dish is primarily salty with a thin, crispy bite. It was a delight to eat at the time but really, I could not fully appreciate the reverence that Ilocano seem to have for this fish. Maybe we should have had it prepared another way.

The venue of our first Ilocano meal may have a bit touristy. But after a long drive from Manila, this was still a much-needed stopover and an excellent introduction to the home-grown cuisine of Ilocos.

More driving.

After a few more hours, we reach our home during our stay in Ilocos, Sitio Remedios Heritage Village Resort.

What makes Sitio Remedios so unique is its mission to introduce guests to the Ilocakandia through its architecture, art and of course, their distinctive food. One can learn so much about a region by merely trying the local fare. At our temporary home, food was always in abundance. As one of our hosts jests, at Sitio, they serve one meal--it starts with a breakfast of longanisa and daing and ends with a midnight snack of tsokolate eh and soft biscochos.

For breakfast, how about some Longganisa from the nearby town of Batac? Practically, every region of the Philippines has one version of this sausage but this garlicky, savory and somewhat less fatty longganisa was delight to tuck into every morning. For lunch, Pokpoklong, a unique seaweed collected on the shores of Ilocos in early mornings, served with sliced tomatoes and dressed with locally produced sugarcane vinegar. For dinner, Adobong Maskara, a commonly made stew of vinegar, soy sauce, peppercorns, garlic and bay leafs but made uncommon by using both pork cheeks and ears (in fact, the whole pig's face!) as its main ingredient. Morning, noon or night, eating at Sitio Remedios is always an adventure.

I will talk about Sitio Remedios at greater length in a later post.

from top left, clockwise
Longganisa from Sitio Remedios, Ginisar nga Ipon from Kusina Felicitas,
Adobong Maskara from Sito Remedios, Dinengdeng from La Preciosa

It's our second day in Ilocos Norte. Time of a little excrusion further north.

When you ask Manilenos where to eat in Ilocos, La Preciosa will, more often than not, be mentioned. After an hour's drive from Sitio Remedios, we arrive in the city of Laoag somewhat famished. The sights can wait for now. Lunch is the first order of business. Located in the capital city of Ilocos Norte, this restaurant is two-story building along a busy provincial street. The look of the place is honestly not very memorable but we are here for the food which didn't disappoint.

Once seated, A insists we tuck into the Bagnet with a side of KBL (P130) once again. I don't complain. I love my pork. La Preciosa's version of Bagnet is probably the best looking and tasting we had. But really, we enjoy this dish no matter how or where it was served.

In spirit of exploring the unfamiliar, two Ilocano dishes catch our fancy: the Crispy Dinardaraan (P120) and the Dinengdeng (P130).

The Crispy Dinardaraan is a drier version of what the Tagalogs call Dinuguan, a stew of pork parts and innards simmered in pig's blood, vineger, garlic and chilis. It's an acquired taste even among us natives. It's a flavor I heartly dig into whenever the oppurtunity presents itself. It was pretty much a no-brainer for me to try this Ilocano take on this popular Pinoy dish. This version is cooked to a point where the pork parts are crisp and have a bit of bite to them. If you can get over the phobia of eating innards coated in dried pig's blood, I promise it's a taste one doesn't soon forget. My closest approximation? A blood sausage is cut open and fried to a dry crisp. As much as I have an affinity for the more stew-like version of the Tagalogs, I wouldn't mind having more Dinardaraan if given the chance.

Next, we try the Dinengdeng, a somewhat clear soup of fish and vegetables. Although the menu claims that there is grilled fish in this dish, in reality it is all about the veggies. What traces of fish flavor comes from the infusion of the local bagoong, a sauce made of fermented fish with the broth. In many ways, the soup reminds me of a more popular Ilocano vegetable dish called Pinakbet only because the myriad of squash flowers, okra, ampalaya and several types of beans that have taken over my bowl. Admittedly, the Dinengdeng is a welcome break from all the pork and pork by-products but really, I don't think I'll be trying it again. Pass the Bagnet, please.

from top left, clockwise:
Bagnet from Kusina Felicitas, Crispy Dinardaraan from La Preciosa,
Daing from Sitio Remedios, Napoli Pizza from Minos Italian Eatery

Sadly, it will happen.

It was day four of our Ilocos adventure. And if you stay as long as we did, you will tire of the bagnet and all. A body can only take so much deep-fried pork. Once this happens, head for the town of Badoc and look for Minos. Just two blocks for the Juan Luna Shrine, Minos Italian Eatery is a very small restaurant in the converted garage of one story bungalow. Don’t worry about getting lost. Ask a local. There is nothing like Minos within a fifty-kilometer radius.

Minos is owned and operated by Giacomo Iavagone or Minos for short. A proud son of Como, Italy, Minos had been traveling back and forth between Italy and the Philippines since 1998.But two years ago, he decided to settle down in Badoc and open up his own eatery.

From his tiny kitchen, Minos with the help of his assistant serves up simple Italian pasta and pizza dishes at amazingly low, low prices. On our visit, A. and I decide to tuck in and share an order of Ravioli in a Cream and Mushroom Sauce (P30) and a large Napoli Pizza (P180). In retrospect, I will not say that Minos serves up the best Italian food ever. But if you have been subsisting for several days on fresh fish and vegetables and all the longganisa you can eat (such a tough life in Ilocos), then getting a slice of pizza in the middle of Ilokandia will be like an island oasis in a sea of bagnet. Taking a break at Minos will prepare any food weary traveler for more Ilocos culinary adventures to come.

And there is much more to come. Stay tuned.

Kusina Felicitas/Café Uno
1 Bonifacio Street cor. Quirino Boulevard
Vigan City, Ilocos Sur
Telephone: (077) 722 2118
Fax: (077) 632 0987

Sitio Remedios Heritage Village Resort
Brgy Victoria
Currimao, Ilocos Norte
Email: sitio_remedies@yahoo.com
Website: www.sitioremedios.com

La Preciosa
Brgy 5 J. Rizal Avenue
Laoag City, Ilocos Norte
Telephone: (077) 773-1162
Email: lapreciosa_laoag@yahoo.com.ph
Website: www.lapreciosa_ilocos.com

Minos Italian Eatery
Brgy Canaan
Badoc, Ilocos Norte

Many thanks to Christine, Chichajo and Marketman for showing the way.

On the Table: Chef Aileen Anastacio

Chef Aileen Anastacio's name is practically synonymous with all things decadently sweet. For nearly a decade, as the head chef of Goodies n' Sweets, she has baked some of the most memorable cakes and pastries that have tempted customers to throw dietary caution to the wind. Not only does she create lovely pastries and manage a growing business, Chef Aileen also teaches about her passion at the Heny Sison Culinary School. Adding on to her already impressive resume, she is now a regular contributor to Yummy Magazine.





Who in your life has influenced your baking the most?

Two people: First, Jean Yves Duperet - he's the french chef who was my boss in san francisco. he owned a patisserie called La Nouvelle Patisserie. Second, Bo Friberg - he was my chef in California Culinary Academy. Both were extremely talented. they taught me the science and art of baking.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

When I'm researching for formulas, I use Bo Friberg's The Professional Pastry Chef Book. For leisure, I get a lot of inspiration from Martha Stewart Baking and Alice Medrich's Cocolat Book.

What was your first job in the food business?

My first job was at La Nouvelle Patisserie. I worked there as a pastry assistant specializing in fresh fruit tarts, mousse cakes, napoleons, pies, muffins, filled croissants, jams etc. On my free time, I handled the deli section of the patisserie creating sandwiches and savory pies.

When did you decide you wanted to open Goodies n' Sweets?

Goodies N' Sweets has been in existence since 1986. It was owned by the family of my best friend. they opened a bakeshop because a lot of people wanted to order the cakes that they were giving away to friends. Then in 1999, they didn't want to operate it anymore so we decided to merge it with my company C'est Si Bon Corp. I took charge of the operations and gave Goodies n' Sweets a new look. since then, I've been the one managing the stores and the commissary.

What is your favorite item on the your menu?

For the food - I like Grilled Chicken Mediterranean. For the pasta, I like the ever reliable Carbonara or the Tuna and Capers Pasta. For dessert - I go for the Banoffee and Chocolate Lava Cake.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

I went to Oregon in 2004 and ate at this restaurant named Clark and Louis and they served organic fresh produce. They served food family style and the menu changes occasionally to serve food that's in season. The style is more on the italian and mediterranean food.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

I love Sala for fine dining. I have been a patron since they first opened in Manila. For casual dining - I love Cibo. the quality of the food has been so consistent and the service is superb. there's also a place in timog that we frequent for lunch meetings when im in the area - Cafe Uno. I like it bec they always have a daily special.

What junk food do you love?

I don't eat much junk and I don't normally keep a stash in my home but if I do crave, I go for the old red Chippy and cheese flavored Clover Chips.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

I don't really fancy sea cucumbers and innards.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I want to open more Goodies n' Sweets shops around the Metro and globally if possible. I also want to open an all day breakfast place and I'm crossing my fingers, hopefully by mid year, an asian food restaurant.

Many thanks to Ocs Alvarez and Yummy Magazine for Chef Aileen's photo.

Goodies N' Sweets
108 Car Park 1 Building
Greenhills Shopping Center
Telephone: (02) 722 8740