The Travelling Table: A Conversation about C

from top left, clockwise
Insalata Caprese, Panizza Peppone, Bistecca di C, Panizza in a Roll

What does it take to be considered the best?

An accessible location? A delectable menu? Service that makes diners feel like honored guests? Or is there an X factor? An unquantifiable quality that a restaurant possesses that brings the dining public knocking on its doors, wanting more?

C' Italian Dining has been named by many as the best Italian restaurant, not just in the province of Pampanga or Metro Manila but in the entire Philippines. A heady accolade, to say the least. So it is understandable that first-time visitors would have high expectations at this much-praised establishment. After all, a restaurant doesn’t get proclaimed the best on a mere whim.

“What were owners thinking opening a Italian restaurant in the middle of Pampanga?” I asked M, a foodie acquaintance (and more importantly a recent C Italian Dining guest). I admit, it is a snobby Manileno thing to ask. But after some discussion with M, it begins to make perfect sense. Opening another Italian restaurant in Manila would have been challenging at best. No matter how delicious a restaurant’s food, it would be easy to get lost the myriad of talented Italian cookery. Why not set up a restaurant where you can be the proverbial big fish in a little pond? And besides, as M so eloquently put it, if you make a meal harder to have, the more they (the dining public) will want it.

Chef and owner Chef Chris Locher is master of his craft, making dishes that inspire images of a lush Italian countryside. Take, for example, the Insalata Caprese (P440). This salad of sun-ripe cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil is dressed with olive oil, coarse salt and fresh cracked peppercorns. There are no intricate cooking techniques or complex sauce to hide behind. This dish is all about freshness: the juicy bite of the tomatoes, the slightly salty creaminess of the mozzarella and the unmistakable aroma and flavor of freshly torn basil leaves, bound by a fruity olive oil. Lovely.

With our appetites whetted, our Panizza Peppone (P580) arrives. At first glace, this thin-crust pizza topped with spicy salami, anchovies, capers, artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes is nothing unusual, until you notice how it is sliced. Instead of the usual triangular wedges, this C’ Italian’s signature dish is cut into long, thin strips. From my conversation with M, I knew that guests are encouraged to create rolls of pizza with centers of fresh arugula and alfalfa sprouts. At first bite, the reason for this unique dish’s popularity becomes clear: a taste of fresh greens surrounded by the roasted flavors of salami and anchovies and the crisp crackle of the toasted crust.

Wanting to savor more of Chef Locher’s scrumptious menu, we order the Bistecca di C (P1600), an angus flank steak marinated with black pepper, garlic, herbs and a red wine reduction. Served with roasted potatoes and pumpkin slices, this traditionally grilled piece of meat is a substantial serving of beefy deliciousness. The smell of rosemary and thyme fill your nose as you take your first bite. The flank steak is surprisingly tender and succulent. With every succeeding serving, the flavors of roasted garlic and red wine heighten the sweetness of the beef.

If it were just about the food, our experience would have been rated as one of the best. But a lost reservation, a less-than-comfortable seating area, an unusually long wait for service and a server who seemed distracted, almost to the point of disinterest, made our lunch less than outstanding. For the time and money, diners spend one would expect a better front-of-the-house.

Is C’ Italian Dining the best Italian restaurant in the Philippines?

It could be. But by my impression, it’s not quite there yet. Without a doubt, Chef Locher cooks with such a depth of knowledge and undeniable love that diners cannot help but be blissfully swept away by his traditional Italian creations. In many cases, that would have been enough. But when they label you the best, it becomes more than just about the food.

Would I return to C' Italian Dining? Absolutely. I cannot wait to savor my next rolled-up slice of panizza or tuck into the Insalata Caprese, a bowl of fresh Italian flavors. And besides, as they say, Rome (or the best Italian restaurant, for that matter) was not built in a day.

C' Italian Dining
1210 Don Juico Avenue
Clarkview, Malabanas
Angles City, Pampanga
Telephone: (045) 892 4059, (045) 892 6993
Website: http://www.citaliandining.com

All I Want for Christmas: A Taste of...Everything

Some of the stuff I ate on my 2008 travels*

Note: This month, the Three will be sharing our foodie wish lists for this holiday season. Just in case, Santa is reading. Enjoy.

Dear Santa,

I think I've been a pretty good girl this year--no major indiscretions apart from that trip to Ambos Mundos. I'm pretty sure I'm on the "Nice" side of your list, so I'm hoping that for this Christmas, you'd give me...everything.

OK, so I haven't been that nice, I know. But before you fall off your sleigh, let me explain: All I want is the chance to see the world, and taste what every city, every country has to offer. A chance to go back to Europe and re-do my food experience--no more McDo in Rome, I swear...I was too young to know any better. A chance to travel and eat the way I traveled and ate this year. (Interestingly, I've been following in Franco's footsteps--I found myself in Bangkok and New York a few months after he went. If this is some kind of trend, I'm hoping Greece is next on his list...)

If this is too much to ask, then a gym membership would do.

Thanks! And Merry Christmas!

XOXO,
Mariko


*(First row, from left) Pomelo salad at Jim Thompson Cafe, Bangkok street food, lasagna salad at the Cibo-esque Greyhound Cafe; (second row) blueberry-infused waffles topped with blueberries, strawberries, homemade whipped cream, and strawberry sauce (I asked for a side order of chocolate sauce) at a lovely brunch place in Hoboken; a $32 burger stuffed with ribs, foie gras, and black truffles at db Bistro Moderne in NYC; the Bananas for Bananas dessert at Bryant Park Grill (served with an interesting salted peanut ice cream); (third row) the steak that came with a $10 set lunch in Little Italy, a raspberry hazelnut chocolate chunk cheesecake (a.k.a. Evil on a Plate) from Roxy, a Gray's Papaya dog--served by a kabayan!

Table Recipes: Green Grape Sangria Sorbet

A Frozen Sangria with an Apple Twist

I’m trying to get my ice cream groove going.

Christmas is coming and I have a lot of cream to make. But instead of starting with an ice cream concoction, I’ve decided to adapt an interesting recipe that picked up from an old issue of Gourmet. It started as Green Grape Sangria but I figured that it would work well as a frozen dessert.

A traditional Spanish libation, sangria is usually a red wine flavored with citrus and apples. Of late, this drink has been unfairly associated with overt sweetness covering over mediocre (often, cheap) wine. But this Gourmet recipe offers something different: a lightness of flavor, a subtle hint of mint and yet, the very distinct characteristic of the white wine still shine though.

Frozen, this green grape sangria translates into a flavorfully palate cleanser or even dessert. It is a wonderful sorbet that I cannot wait to share during the holidays.

Enjoy.

Green Grape Sangria Sorbet
Adapted from Gourmet Magazine, July 2008

• 350 grams green grapes
• 2 small Granny Smith Apples,
• ¼ cup packed mint leaves
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1 (500g) vitamin C tablet, crushed to a powder*
• 2 cups dry white wine**
• ½ cup water

Core, deseed and cut the apples into 1 inch chucks. Remove the grapes from the stems and cut larger grapes into halves.

In a medium saucepan, bring the white wine, water and sugar to a boil. Once boiling, add chunks of apples and grapes. Reduce the heat to low.

Simmer the apples and grape mixture for about 5 minutes or until the grapes are soft and cooked through.

Remove saucepan from the heat and add the mint leaves and crushed vitamin C tablet. Let the mixture steep until it reaches room temperature.

Puree the mixture in a blender or food processor and then press the grape/apple puree through a fine mesh strainer.

Chill the strained mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator and then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes 1 liter.

*The vitamin C helps maintain the vibrant green of the sorbet.
**I use an Australian Pinot Grigio, but you can use any dry white you enjoy drinking.

Table Suggestions: Yummy on a Stick

Strawberry Yogurt Popsicle

I never got into this whole frozen yogurt thing.

I do enjoy yogurt. But as a frozen dessert, I usually pass and ask for a scoop (or two) of ice cream instead. No surprises there. But after a recent Sunday dinner at my sister’s place, I might have to eat (or lick) my words. Never say never.

Once we had finished tucking into the usual Sunday fare, my sister’s cook comes over to me and offers a special treat for dessert, a Strawberry Yogurt Popsicle by Picole. I hesitate. While I have a respectful disdain for frozen yogurt, I do however have an odd fixation with food that comes on a stick.

Barbecued pork on a stick? Absolutely. Fried bananas on a stick? Yes, please. Coagulated pig’s blood? Sure, I’ll give it a try. So why not frozen yogurt on a stick? After a brief moment of thought, I accept the offer.

Moments later, my dessert arrives. Inside a clear plastic wrapper is a blush pink popsicle. Looking closer, I can see slices of fresh strawberries frozen within the frost-covered yogurt. I take my first lick.

Picole on a Stick

After the numbness subsides, there is a taste of creamy yogurt as my tongue's heat melts the popsicle. Following my second lick is the tangy, sweet flavor of iced strawberries. A third lick brings the two sensations together into a duet of the tangy sour and the sublime sweetness. Both in perfect balance.

The following Saturday, I arrive early at the Salcedo Village Market. I want to be Picole’s first customer for the day.

Yogurt on a stick? Yes, please. I’ll take a dozen.

Picole also offers juice and milk based popsicles as well. A wide variety of flavors are available.

Picole: Healthy Ice Pops
Salcedo Village Market (across from Ineng's Barbeque)
Telephone: (02) 724 4567
Cel: (0917) 511 0208, (0917) 530 0649
Look for Candy Subida

All I Want for Christmas: Sugar Rush

The author in Montmartre, clearly forgetting the struggle between leather and beige.

Note: This month, the Three will be sharing our foodie wish lists for this holiday season. Just in case, Santa is reading. Enjoy.

When Franco approached me to talk about my foodie Christmas list, my mind immediately raced with images of all the various kitchen doodads I've wanted-- small things like pans, rasp graters, julienne peelers, knives, and immersion blenders. However, since this is pretty much fantasy, I might as well take advantage of Santa's bottomless sack of goodies and reach for the stars.

I went on a tour of Europe (one of those "economical" 15-day whirlwind tours covering 7 countries) in 2004, before I had my culinary awakening. Since it was my first time to set foot on another continent, I was unprepared for the experience and took in everything I could without focus. Fast-forward to almost 5 years later and a love affair with patisserie-- I long to go back to Paris and see it with new eyes. Originally I'd written it off as a crazily congested cosmopolitan jungle. But anyone who is serious about dessert HAS to go, if only to purge yourself of a lifetime of boring, repetitive sweets. Even if the city isn't free of horrible bakers, it still is the birthplace of patisserie and home to the best in the world-- Fauchon, Dalloyau, Pierre Hermé, Ladurée, Sadaharu Aoki, and Lenôtre-- to start! The essays of David Lebovitz and Dorie Greenspan are fun to read, but they only feed my hunger more. I need to go back.

(Dear Santa, Tokyo or New York will do in a pinch.)

For a lot less than a plane ticket to France, I can also satisfy my dessert-y desires with the help of a trusty Kitchenaid Professional Stand Mixer. While my 600-peso hand mixer serves me very well, some desserts and breads like Brioche, strudel, and roti canai can't be done very well without something sturdier. The best part is that it can multitask as an ice-cream maker, meat grinder, and pasta machine-- pretty handy for the guy who wants to do it all. One thing's for sure-- if some culinarily-challenged couple who received it as a wedding present decides to sell it on eBay, I'll be first in line to snatch it up.

Now, if only someone had a trip to Europe they were willing to let go...

Manggy is owner of the blog No Special Effects.

All I Want for Christmas: Those Intangibles

The Market Alleys of Sheung Wan

Note: This month, the Three will be sharing our foodie wish lists for this holiday season. Just in case, Santa is reading. Enjoy.

Don’t get me wrong.

I would love to have a new set of knives, a non-stick wok or a six-burner stove. But as I get older, my foodie interests are beginning to shift from knick-knacks to those things that are less quantifiable, such as experiences that fill a life with a little bit of knowledge, pleasure and a sense of well-being. Those intangibles aren’t so easily gift-wrapped and sold at store.

I’ve been to Hong Kong more than couple of times. But with every succeeding trip, I always leave with a sense that my understanding of this former British colony is much too touristy. In some ways, it has almost become routine and even mundane. There must be more? I know there is more.

My first wish is to immerse myself in Hong Kong’s culinary life.

I want to bite into dim sum at the Dynasty Restaurant or slurp my beef noodles at Lok Yuen. I would love to dine in private kitchens like Yin Yang, Magnolia or Yellow Door. I want to indulge in the tasting menus of Joel Robuchon and Nobu Matsuhisa and explore the narrow market alleyways of Sheung Wan. Most of all, I long to learn from “ the Julia Child of Hong Kong” Cecilia Au-Yang at the Chopstick Cooking Centre.

In the end, I would like to gain a greater sense of this widow display of China. In my mind, there is no better way to understand Hong Kong than living their food experience from the ground up.

What can I possible say about Chef Ferran Adria that has not been already written?

He has been called many things from an innovator to anarchist, from culinary genius to gastronomical clown. However, one thing cannot be denied. Because of his groundbreaking techniques and deconstructive approach to food, the dining experience as we know it will never been the same.

My second wish is simple and difficult at the same time: to eat a meal at El Bulli.

Eating the 30-course tasting menu at Chef Adria’s restaurant along the Catalan Mediterranean would be foodie equivalent of visiting the Vatican. It is a gastronomical experience that may have few equals.

I have read the stories. I have seen the photographs. I have even salivated over his books. But alas, this wish may have to stay a dream for a while longer. Believe it or not, El Bulli is booked solid for next year’s season and the waiting list is very, very long.

I may not fulfill my wishes this year or even the next. But if I am nothing else, I am patient. As I said before, I wouldn’t mind receiving the knick-knacks: a couple of Global knives, a Viking stove, and more wooden spoons…

PS. Just I little follow-up wish. I love Kylie Kwong. In my opinion, she is the Jamie Oliver of Chinese cuisine. I would love to meet to her or at the very least, eat at her restaurant. But for now, that wish can wait some other time.

Many thanks to Erik Lacson for the lovely photograph.

Table Recipes: 'Thanksgiving in a Sandwich' Sandwich

The Morning After: The Post-Thanksgiving Ritual

This isn’t so much a recipe as it is a technique.

My family has celebrated Thanksgiving for as long as I can remember. Our family has lived in many parts of the world. Because of our ever-changing environment, it became imperative for my parents to create a stable and constant home for me and my siblings. Family celebrations like Christmas, New Year’s, birthdays and even Thanksgiving are always religiously observed. No matter where we are, we always know where home is–it is wherever our family is.

For us, Thanksgiving is an amazing holiday. It is an evening to celebrate family, to give thanks for life's blessings and of course, to tuck into a 20-pound turkey.

Anyway, back to the sandwich.

Three Thanksgiving dinners ago, I had an enlightening conversation with my niece K concerning the ever-important turkey leftovers. Eventually, our talk turned toward our common love for the Cold Turkey Sandwich. Before this little chat, my idea of a perfect post-Thanksgiving sandwich was simple: lots of carved white meat in between slices of white bread, smothered in globs of mayonnaise. When I told her this, K was aghast. “Tito, isn’t the point of the sandwich to relive Thanksgiving dinner?” she asked. She went on to suggest that maybe I should try using all the leftovers in one sandwich. This means using the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the sweet potatoes, the salad greens, the gravy and even the mashed potatoes to make the ultimate Thanksgiving sandwich. Admittedly, I was skeptical at first. But I tried it the next day and I have been making my sandwiches K’s way every year since.

My niece calls it Thanksgiving in a sandwich. I call it delicious.

Table for Three, Please has Gone Pro!

We have finally upgraded our Flickr account.

So for those of you who haven't seen (or just want to view them again) our photo essay series called Behind the Kitchen Doors, please click here.

Sit back and enjoy the show.

Table Conversation: Mochi by MochiCream

Green Tea Mochi from MochiCream

I am a MochiCream convert.

After a recent trip from Japan, my lovely wife, A decided to bring me back a little gift, a pasalubong, as Pinoys call it. Packaged in an elegant, black rectangular box were eight delicately wrapped sweet buns called mochi.

Usually created during New Year celebrations, mochi is a traditional Japanese confection. Following tradition, each mochi is primarily made of finely ground glutinous rice and formed into a dainty little bun surrounding a sweet center of red mung bean paste.

But a confection maker called MochiCream sees the mochi in a different light.

As only a Japanese confection maker could do, MochiCream has taken the traditional and elevated it to a whole new level. By adding new flavors and stylizing their retail experience, the buying and savoring of mochi has more in common with shopping for jewelry than going to a bakery. From an egg custard cream to a cherry-flavored center to creamy filling flavored with green tea, the variety of flavors and colors seem endless.

Biting into a mochi is like nibbling into a cloud releasing a dew drops of sublime flavor. The bun itself is soft and airy with a light feel in the mouth. As you bite into it further, the bun melts away into sweetness as it releases its inner secret filling: in this case, a sweet green tea paste with a slight taste of tea bitterness and the unmistakable aroma of warm green tea filling your mouth.

At that point, I realized that I have never been to Japan. After my little taste of this quintessential Japanese snack, I think I am long overdue for a visit.

For more information, check out their website.

Table Conversation: An Intimate Eyeball

Creations by Chef Manuel at Lolo Dad's Brasserie

I rarely attend eyeball events.

Most of the time, it's usually about timing. Scheduling conflicts and so on. But truth be told, I'm also a fairly shy person who just happens to love sharing his delight for food. What started as a 'first look' lunch at a new restaurant of a very talented Filipino chef, eventually evolved into a very intimate eyeball for three (plus one). My dining companions for the day? Two food writers who I greatly admire and have the privilege of knowing outside the blogsphere: Lori Baltazar of Dessert Comes First and Margaux Salcedo of the Margauxlicious (plus the lovely company of Margaux's sister, G).

What I love about these women, besides their unabashed love for food, is the fact that outside their foodie personas they lead very interesting lives. We did talk a lot about food but our table conversation was never limited to the gastronomical sphere. In fact, our little chats found their way to some strange and unusual places.

As for Lolo Dad's Brasserie, let me say this: I am an ardent fan of Chef Ariel Manuel. Although I have no serious food issues concerning his new establishment, I think his brasserie needs more time to develop to the level that many diners have come to expect. I believe Chef Manuel's new eatery is worth a visit but for now, come with more forgiving expectations. As for me, I will most definitely return. Maybe in a couple of months. Chef Manuel is always worth a second try.

Franco's Note: If anyone knows Chef Manuel personally, please ask him to contact us. We would love to interview him. Trust me, we have tried. Almost to the point of being slightly 'stalkerish'. And we promise, we will not bite.

Lolo Dad's Brasserie
Ground Floor, 6750
Ayala Avenue
Makati City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 813-6750

Death by Chocolate: Chocolate is Not My Middle Name

Hazelnut Pots de Creme

It took one intimate chocolate buffet to make me realize that I could never really lay claim to, as a badge of honor, being a chocoholic. Or a chocolate lover. I crash. I burn. I lay down on my table, defeated.

Friday night I made reservations for two at Manila Peninsula’s famous chocolate buffet. I brought along the most sweet-toothed of my sisters, the one who always got first dibs on the cookies and cakes I used to bake in sixth grade. I was assured that whatever sweet ending the buffet will lead us, she will be at the other end of the table bright-eyed and satisfied. And all the chocolates in the hotel will be worth it.

I had no delusions of being transported to Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory when we arrived. But I had a pocket of excitement in my belly, traveling to my watering mouth. “Tsokolate-Ah!” marked the menu that the staff gave us. I did a double-take on the buffet’s name this year, thick puddles of Spanish chocolate and tableya parading in my head. The waiter informed us there are no tsokolate-eh or ah tonight, but chocolates made from the Swiss brand Felchlin.

Two tables modestly groaning with chocolates displayed a multitude of incarnations. This being our first time, we had a progressive plan of attack: Work our way up from the lightest to the most intense. The first table carried the smaller treats we could easily pile on the plate without hogging the line. The hogging happened on the next table, where people took their time while carefully slicing the cakes. Besides it’s much more convenient to make a beeline for one table at a time than crisscross our way to two. Out of that table emerged my personal favorites:

Chocolate fondue, still warm in ramekins the chocolate guy handed to us for the strawberries and marshmallows.

Hazelnut pots de crème, singing duets like a jar of Nutella (well, almost).

Fresh fruit in chocolate cups, “the middle tasted like cream puff filling,” my sister said, a cream puff fanatic.

Chocolate pudding, creamy up to here.

White chocolate passion fruit, biting me with such tart I quiver.

Super chocolate ice cream, simple, smooth and unadorned, packs a wallop of chocolate flavor.

By the time we swooped down on table two, I had my eye on the cakes: fallen chocolate cake, heavenly moist cake (hmm, chocolate so good you can either fall from the sky or ascend to it?), and the Bailey’s chocolate chip cheesecake. They were perhaps the stars of the buffet but I could barely finish half of what I’d sliced. System crashing from all the sugar. I should have asked for the complimentary tea earlier, at least to help melt my indulgences.

My sister, bless her, had mercifully eaten everything she had loaded on her plate. I nibbled mindlessly on a white chocolate-covered breadstick. Lifted me up a bit but not enough for me to compose anything poetic about the handmade pralines and truffles I had reserved last. At this point, the candle on our table flickered and died. The wick had drowned on the wax.

Memo from self: “you like chocolate, you really do. But only up to a point.” I could only pop one last white chocolate truffle before we called it a night. The Felchin chocolates were not as fetchin’ as I hoped but it was a fun buffet as it should be. I envied the kids who got their Spider Boy Float. I wouldn’t mind going back, next year maybe. If only to graze on a few old favorites and then hit the cakes first without gorging myself to death. I want a chocolate to live for.

Jenny Orillos is a regular contributor to Spot.ph.
Many thanks to Lori of Dessert Comes First for the lovely photograph.

For the Buffet Only: Adults: PhP 550+++, Children: PhP 225+++.
Available on Fridays and Saturdays from 9:00 pm to 12mn, until the end of December.

Tsokolate Ah: The Chocolate Buffet
The Peninsula Manila
Ayala cor Makati Avenue
Makati City 1226
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 887 2888, extension 6694
E-mail: pmn@peninsula.com

The Travelling Table: What Pork Fat Can Do (2 of 2)

Hearts of Rice

As I was saying...

If anything, this whole event was about passion.

The spread was much, much more than the dishes I've previously mentioned. Aside from the lechon, the grilled corn, and the kilawin, there were the shrimps, which were quickly marinated in salt, pepper, and lemons, then grilled in the same oven. This was where resident energizer bunny Ms. Fores finally cried out, "I can't stand it, I need to touch the food!" At which point she fell on the shrimps, helping to lay them out on the blisteringly hot oven.

Shortly after, the pigs were done, the puso (rice steamed in little packets) were being taken down from the tree, and we were herded to the dining area. The all white tablecloths and tents were accented with various native fruits and some really odd, but pretty, flowers. Hard as it was to drag people away from the kilawin, even the stragglers had to leave the ice bowls alone when the pigs were brought to their place on the spread.

At the buffet spread, there were even more dishes. There were crabs, green mango salad with excellent bagoong, dinuguan (which I didn't even see), langka salad, eggplant salad, tomato salad, kinilaw na guso (seaweed) salad, and something called lukot. A short note on lukot. It's a secretion by a sea creature called a sea hare. It's not the same thing as kopi luak, I am assured. It's actually perfectly edible, it just sounds disturbing.

From top left, clockwise
Cracked Lechon, The Eyeball Buffet,
Shrimps on the Grill, Cheesecake

It's perhaps almost laughably obvious to say that the food was wonderful. The lechon, the star of the show, did not disappoint. Market Man's particular blend of spices for the pork includes kaffir lime leaves, which gives it a more robust, spicy, aroma. The Cebu-style lechon did not need any sauce at all; the pork was already wonderfully seasoned and moist. The skin was perfectly crisp, not too hard or soggy. Anthony Bourdain praised it as the best ever; who am I to disagree?

Aside from these, other dishes stood out, such as the lechon meat sisig (like I said in the first part, what more can I really say?) and the corn, pre-buttered inside the husk as it grilled, which received oohs and aahs from the diners. Dessert was just as impressive, with things like durian cheesecake, tocino del cielo, and traditional Cebuano torta, cooked with pork fat (what else?) and tuba, which was the leavener. It was a struggle to stop eating.

The Cebuano Torta

I said that this was about passion. It was.

It was in every dish in that spread, made with the best possible ingredients, prepared with utmost care. It was in the enthusiastic reception of the diners, some of whom crossed oceans just to attend. It was in hands itching to touch the food, in smiles and cameras and stories shared over the table. Every dish in that spread was a product of passion, from the lechon to the torta. Every bite made by the participants was done with matching enthusiasm. What I took away from this experience was not just memories of excellent food and company, but also a lesson in just what wonders passion can achieve when properly, and judiciously, applied.

The experience was inspiring, and not a lot of "eyeballs" do that.

Stich's Note: Many thanks to MarketMan and our new friends for an experience I will treasure. Oh, and for the food.

The Travelling Table: What Pork Fat Can Do (1 of 2)

Lechon on a Stick

I could not help but do a double-take when my wife, a normally sensible, practical, soul, announced a few weeks ago that we were going to Cebu for a short trip - to eat lechon.

I, of course, expressed no objections whatsoever. I get it. It's lechon.

To clarify, this was the "Lechon Eyeball" (a morbidly appetizing term) organized by MarketMan of Market Manila fame. It was a chance for avid readers to meet him and fellow readers over several of the famed pigs, cooked in his very own lechon oven. For those not familiar, Market Man is one of the country's top bloggers, and he is obsessed with perfecting lechon. He has been praised by Anthony Bourdain, no less, for his pork. It would take more than just ordinary Cebu lechon to get my wife that determined.

We arrived at the secret meeting location, marked by the huge "MARKET MANILA" sign right at the gate. We got out of the cab and saw...nothing. The nicely set tables were empty. Waiters hovered nervously around us. Were we too early?

Apparently not. We were directed to the famous lechon oven, where three pigs were being turned, but not in the usual way. They were turned back and forth, never all the way around, but enough to ensure that all sides were being heated. Apparently, this makes a difference in the final result. Corn was also being grilled in the husk in the same oven (with butter inside!). Two pots of paksiw were also boiling happily away. Around this were a gaggle of fellow readers, excitedly chatting and, every once in a while, gazing longingly at the pigs. Others were puttering about, taking pictures for their own blogs. I was a little surprised. This was an event.

from top left, clockwise
A Mix of Limes, Paksiw na Lechon, Chicharon, Sisig na Baboy

On a nearby table, a basin was full of absolutely fresh shrimps were waiting beside a bilao full of calamansi and something that looked slightly like kaffir limes (they are called biasong). While waiting, waiters were walking about, offering peanuts, dried mangoes, and, my personal favorite, carcar chicharon, apparently made from dinosaurs. Discussions about food were everywhere, covering almost any topic. Margherita Fores was a pleasant, and energetic, surprise. She was a cheerful dervish, whirling happily around the cooking area, hands itching to touch the items being prepared. Eventually, she would help out in the cooking, unable to resist the urge to touch the food.

Market Man himself was a surprise. He was charming and engaging...and tall. More importantly, he knew food. He prepared some unique kilawin, from a fish that was alive just nine hours prior. He knew every ingredient, and how it would come together to complete the dish. Here was a guy who loved food, who got in there with his hands and knew not to overwork the fish while making the dish.

Kinilaw in Ice Bowl

When it was done, it was served in ice-bowls, to keep the fish fresh. The dish was a revelation. We already expect kilawin to be tart, it is a kind of ceviche, after all. But this one uses vinegar pressed coconut milk, which turns the tart dish into something remarkably creamy, which worked extremely well with the natural sweetness of the ridiculously fresh fish. Tomatoes, onions, ginger, and chillis provided an excellent finish. I could have gorged on this alone.

He also made, of all things, sisig. With lechon meat. Do I really have to say anything more? Soon enough, the dishes were ready, and we all took our places at the table.

See you next post.

Death by Chocolate: Tips for Non-Chocoholics

from top left, clockwise
Heavenly Moist Chocolate Cake, Chocolate Walnut Brownies and
White Chocolate Mousse with Passion Fruit, White Chocolate Stones and Chocolate
Panna Cotta with Brandied Cherries, Strawberry and Jackfruit Nigiri and Chocolate Chip Cookies

I am not one for sweets.

While I am no stranger to the pleasures of deeply-flavored chocolate, my main preoccupation has been always the savory. A myriad of chocolate desserts can cause some to uncontrollably salivate. But for people like me, the experience can be a bit daunting. So for all of you who do not call yourselves chocoholics, this post is dedicated to you.

Here are my tips for enjoying a Chocolate Buffet:

The buffet is not as big as I expected it to be. But it is nonetheless impressive. An array of chocolate desserts is arranged on lovely, almost elegant displays. Cookies and cakes, mousse and fondue. A seemingly endless choice of chocolate in all shapes, sizes and forms.

Standing in front of the chocolate buffet, I mumble to myself, “Where the heck do I begin?” I pause, take a breath and begin to walk along the tables, taking in the view. My first tip: Start with what you know.

I begin with something small, something familiar, a couple of White Chocolate Stones. Served on a Chinese soup spoon, this dessert is a cluster of cornflakes covered in white chocolate and formed into ball-shaped stone. Because I love white chocolate and because it also reminds me of Chocolate Clusters, my taste buds just seem to gravitate to it. I take my first bite. The taste is of creamy sweet condensed milk, quickly followed the satisfying crunch of morning cereal.

The sugar starts running through my body. The rush is kicking in.

Hotel buffets are like the mother of all tasting menus. They are an opportunity to savor the creations of talented chefs from around the world without leaving a single restaurant. There are a numerous number of chocolate desserts to enjoy and you don’t want to fill yourself up too quickly. So my second piece of advice is: Take your time. Pace yourself.

With a nice sugar rush going, I turn my attention to the shooters, the White Chocolate Mousse with Passion Fruit and the Chocolate Panna Cotta with Brandied Cherries. Both desserts are light and airy and yet so different in character. The White Chocolate Mousse is delicately sweet with a creamy milk consistency. The passion fruit lends a tangy zing to this dessert, giving it a greater depth of flavor. On the other hand, the panna cotta has a dark, bittersweet flavor, punched up a deep burnt essence of brandied cherries. Both are scrumptious but as a matter of personal preference, I like the white mousse more.

For the most part, the buffet was going well. The Chocolate Chip Cookies and Chocolate Walnut Brownies weren’t exactly to my liking (I found the cookies a bit too crisp and the brownies weren’t very fudgy) but they were still a joy to nibble on in between sips of Earl Grey Tea. The only “what the heck were they thinking?” moment was when I sampled the Strawberry and Jackfruit Nigri. These little mounds of glutinous-like rice are topped with a single slice of fruit, and then mounted upon a thin piece of chocolate. The mimicking of sushi made this dessert attractive on the display but biting into one was like eating badly-executed suman with a chocolate chaser as an afterthought. This experiment gone wrong was not the brightest moment of the buffet.

The evening is getting late and the rush is beginning to wane. But I decide to cap my evening with a last hurrah. Something comforting. Something I truly love. I scoop myself a large dollop of Double Dutch Ice Cream. A vanilla ice cream streaked with strips of dark chocolate and peppered with the crunch of nuts was the perfect ending to my chocolate buffet experience. Delicious. Now, it’s time to go home and fall into a sugar-low induced slumber.

Eating for the most part is a biological necessity. But when sitting down to a Chocolate Buffet, it’s all about the bliss. Sitting down to dessert should ideally be a communal event, sharing the delight of friendly company and delectable fare. My last word of advice: Bring a Friend. A dining experience like this should always be shared.

For the Buffet Only: Adults: PhP 550+++, Children: PhP 225+++.
Available on Fridays and Saturdays from 9:00 pm to 12mn, until the end of December.

Tsokolate Ah: The Chocolate Buffet
The Peninsula Manila
Ayala cor Makati Avenue
Makati City 1226
Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 887 2888, extension 6694
E-mail: pmn@peninsula.com

Table Conversation: Breaking Bread

Bread Heaven at Lartizan

I'm a really not a bread person.

Truth be told, my wife A is more the bread lover in family. I would prefer to tuck into a bowl of noodles or a cup of rice before munching on a croissant. To each his own, I guess.

But since our delightfully eye-opening visit to Grandaisy Bakery, I've been reconsidering my views on bread. I've been looking to upgrade my bread choices beyond sliced bread. In our kitchen, bread definitely needs a re-evaluation.

We still buy our store-bought Gardenia Whole Wheat Bread. But lately, we've been buying French Sourdough and Baguettes from Lartizan on a more regular basis. While I don't see rice fall out of the family diet anytime soon, I think the continuing search for more artisanal breads will be higher on the pantry priority list.

So for this conversation, the questions are as follows: What kind of bread do you buy? And where do you buy it?

Manggy of No Special Effects says:

Our daily bread is Classic Gardenia White Bread from the supermarket. However, we don't stop there in terms of variety-- we buy from different sources depending on what we want. If it's the traditional coiled Ensaymada, we get those from the sari-sari store around the corner.

We love the Spanish Bread from Sonya's Garden -- the distance isn't much of a big deal considering we eat spanish bread rarely (and its purchase is secondary to whatever we came to Tagaytay for).

On Sundays we get Pan de Sal from Casa Marcos. Also, we love the bread at Restaurant Uno (Tomas Morato)-- they have 2 kinds of bread made specifically for that day of the week. We particularly like the Butter Logs and Ciabatta.

Marla of Chips and Trips says:

Depends what it's for. We get Gardenia White Bread from the supermarket as our staple at home (usually for our son's kaya toast). For snacks and baon, I buy filled and topped ones from Bread Talk (cheezy and plain flossy bread, chocolate "baby"). For bread to give away (Pan de Sal for my lola, Croissants for aunties), I get them in The French Baker.

ApplesH of Kubiertos says:

I buy bread from two places - the grocery (usually Robinsons or Market Market) or our neighborhood bakeshop here in Merville. I buy several packs of Wheat and White Loaves, Flat Bread and the occasional Baguette or Sourdough.

Mila of Watergirl says:

I don't have one purveyor for bread. I like to go to Santi's on Tuesday or Wednesday when they have their Walnut Bread fresh from their source. I like the nuttiness of the walnut, the chewiness of the bread. Goes well with chevre and cold cuts.

I do get a few breads, Pan de Sals, Wheat Breads from the markets (Salcedo, or Lung Center) - I think one of the sources is Uncle George, they do several breads for diabetics, but it doesn't taste like sawdust. Commercially, there's Walter's Sugar-free Wheat Bread, it's easily available in the supermarkets, and has less sugar. I don't eat white sliced bread, they tend to be bland and tasteless; I do prefer a heartier Rye or Wheat Bread. The french food vendor at Salcedo has a good rye!

And when I remember, I buy Pumpernickel from Santi's or the German Deli in Legaspi Village because sometimes I feel like Heidi, black bread, cheese, and some goat milk. No, I don't yodel while I eat this.

Lori of Dessert Comes First says:

What kind of bread do you buy?- Croissants, Sourdough Loaves, Tortilla Rolls and Baguettes.

Where do you buy your bread? - Micky's, Mandarin Deli, Santi's

Cathy Paras-Lara, managing editor of Spot.ph says:

JiPan in Mandaluyong has this Walnut Wheat Bread that's soft, a little on the sweet side, and good enough to eat on its own. My husband and I appreciate The French Baker's Crustless Breads, perfect for tuna and grilled cheese sandwiches on our sandwich maker. Pan de Manila has freshly baked, bromate-free Wheat Pan de Sal that's lovely to eat with clotted cream and strawberry jam. It's like a soft scone.

Thank you to Manggy, Marla, ApplesH, Mila, Lori and Cathy for breaking bread with me.

Lartizan
144 Jupiter Street cor. Orbits Street
Bel-Air 2 Village
Makati City
Telephone: (02) 899 6923

Table Recipes: Salt-Fried Pork

Spicy Delicious: Salt-Fried Pork

I’m not big on fast food.

But after a long day, the last thing I want to do is slave away in the kitchen. This is why I love Chinese cooking. The availability of ingredients, the ease of its cooking techniques and the almost instant (and always flavorful) gratification make sitting down to simple Chinese stir-fry such a delight.

The cuisine of choice? Sichuan, care of my current cooking guru, Fuchsia Dunlop. The dish? A simple stir-fry of spicy chili paste, salty fermented black beans, fragrant green onions and lucious slices of pork belly. I'm actually drooling just writing about it.

Salt-Fried Pork
Adapted from Fuchsia Dunlop’s Land of Plenty

• 300 grams pork belly, sliced 5 cms long by 1 cm wide
• 5 green onions, sliced at a diagonal, 4 cms long
• 1 ½ tablespoons chili bean paste
• 1 tablespoon fermented black beans
• 1 teaspoon light soy sauce
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• 3 tablespoons peanut oil
• ¼ teaspoon salt

In a seasoned wok, heat the peanut oil on high. Once the oil is slightly smoking, add the pork and stir-fry for three to four minutes or until the oil clears and the pork has turned color. While the pork is cooking, add the salt.

Once cooked, push the slices of pork to one side of the wok and add the chili paste and fermented black beans. Stir-fry the chili paste mixture until the oil turns a fragrant, glossy red. Add in the pork slices and then the soy sauce and sugar.

Mix in the green onions and continue to stir-fry until they are almost cooked through. Plate and serve immediately.

Serves three as a main dish.

According to Ms. Dunlop, “Salt-fried pork is just the kind of dish you might find on a family dinner table in Sichuan with a few stir-fried vegetables, a simple soup and plenty of rice.” Fast food need not come in a styrofoam container. With the right ingredients, a little elbow grease and a bit of patience, you can have a mouthwatering meal at home.

One more thing. Make sure to have more than a few bowls of steamed rice on hand. Trust me. You are going to need them.

Good eats!

On the Table: Robyn Eckhardt and David Hagerman

Picture Perfect: Robyn and David

There are things that we just meant to be together. Peanut butter and jelly. Green mangoes and bagoong. Mayonnaise and...(pretty much) everything. Add to that list, Robyn Eckhardt and David Hagerman. Through their food blog, Eating Asia, these partners in life, food and travel have beautifully documented their adventure in and around Southeast Asia. Introducing the blogsphere to the diverse cultural and culinary delights this part of world has to offer, this globetrotting duo have elevated food blogging into an appetite-whetting art.

Hello, Robyn and David. Tell us a little about yourselves.

We were both born and raised in Michigan (American Midwest). Our 'life in Asia' started with a year teaching English in China in the mid-eighties. In 1994 Dave moved to Hong Kong for work, Robyn followed soon after, and then we ended up back in China till 1998. After three years back in California, Dave accepted a job in Bangkok and we haven't looked back. Right now we feel Southeast Asia is where we belong. After a year in Bangkok, we spent 2.5 years in Saigon, before moving to Malaysia in mid-2005.

How and when did you decide to make food/travel your life's work?

Dave has been photographing for years and years, and I (Robyn) have been writing --albeit in a different, academic, capacity--for almost as long. We've always been into food and travel and have particularly admired Saveur magazine and it's approach to 'real' food. When we moved to Malaysia, we started the blog--it was sort of our 'guinea pig' to see if we could work together to write about and photograph food. That's how it started, really, with the blog, though we'd been thinking about it for at least a couple years prior.

Robyn, many regional cuisines like Thai, Singaporean and Vietnamese have found their place on the world culinary stage, why do you think Filipino food hasn't achieved the same global acknowledgment?

Well, to begin with, there are not that many Filipino restaurants overseas, so knowledge is slim. Second, Philippine street food is, to tell the truth, not particularly appealing. Visitors to Thailand, Singapore, and Vietnam are immediately assaulted with all kinds of hawker foods that are very accessible, and very appealing, and they are right on the street--or in a food court that's easy to find. The visitor to, say, Manila, won't have that sort of experience, unless they happen to stumble upon Salcedo. Which brings us to promotion--the Philippine tourism authorities do not attempt to promote the PHI as a tourism destination. They could learn from Singapore's tourism authorities, who have succeeded in pushing an image of Singapore as the best place for food in Southeast Asia by educating the foreign public via events like Singapore Food Festivals staged in cities all over the world.

Finally, until recently I think the very best PHI food has been found only in private homes. I notice that in the last few years in Manila, at least, there are more and more eateries where visitors can find excellent versions of PHI homestyle dishes. Filipinos are very picky--a Kapampangan, for instance, would probably turn his nose up at Abe. But for me, a visitor, it's quite good--and it flouts preconceptions that I may have had about Filipino food.

The challenge is getting people to even consider a foodie trip to Manila in the first place. I hope we made some headway there, with our WSJA article.

Robyn, do you ever get tired of writing about food?

You're kidding, right? Do you? I recently wrote a feature story that had nothing at all to do with food. It was the hardest thing I've ever written. Food is my thing.

David, you take some most outstanding photos we've seen. Can you describe your process for us? What is involved in taking the perfect photograph?

It's important to have your wife nagging you to take the perfect photograph. Some advice: watch your light, fill the frame with your subject, and look for something you haven't seen before in photographs of the subject.

David, do you shoot anything else aside from the subjects that you pursue professionally?

Sure, the camera is with me all the time. I shoot our pets. We have three dogs and four cats. Seriously, I've been experimenting a lot lately with the use of light and capturing motion. A kitten is a great subject.

You have been writing, shooting and living in Asia for a while now, what changes have you observed in the regional food scene?

We've seen markets disappear, or be tidied up. We've seen street food disappear (our reference here is Shanghai, where we lived for 2.5 years). We've seen increasing sophistication in terms of Western foods in some places, like Singapore, Manila, Bangkok, and, slowly, Kuala Lumpur. But we're also happy to report that so many traditional foods and food production processes remain. That makes us happy, because we're really not interested in reporting on topics like Asia's Michelin-starred restaurants (and there are already enough people who do that sort of food photography/writing anyway).

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?

Blog: Viet World Ktichen. Andrea Nguyen is a great writer and the blog is an intriguing combo of recipes, newsy tidbits, ingredient discussion, links, etc. We love Vietnamese food but strangely it is one Asian cuisine Robyn doesn't cook much. So we get our fill here.

Cookbook: Pick just one? Robyn cooks many cuisines so that's hard. At the moment, Dunlop's Land of Plenty (Sichuan food - our first experience of Asia was in Sichuan), Besa's Memories of the Philippine Kitchen (as much for the writing and photography as for the recipes), Lynne Rosetto Kaspar's The Italian Country Kitchen (fantastic, TRULY fantastic and authentic Italian cookbook), and Alford/Duguid's Mangoes and Curry Leaves (every single recipe works like a charm).

Food-related TV show: On National Geographic, "Food Lover's Guide to the Planet." It's informative and entertaining and doesn't talk down to the viewer. It's the sort of show that we'd love to do research for.

Food magazine: Some months it's Saveur, other months it's Gourmet. Depends on how 'out there' they've gotten with their food-travel topics.

Say I am visitor from out of town who visiting Kuala Lumpur for the day, where would you take me for breakfast, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and later night supper?

Breakfast: Imbi Market, downtown. An amazing selection of street foods, mostly Chinese, all delicious.

Lunch: Ikan Bakar Pak Din, in the Lake Gardens. Grilled fish and delicious Malay dishes. If Pak Din's wife has made her incredible chicken rendang you're in real luck. Closed Sunday, lunch only.

Afternoon snack: Chat Masala on Jalan Tun Sambanthan in Brickfields. Indian chat (bite-sized snacks) served only after 4p. The puri and fruit salad are highly recommended.

Dinner: Sek Yuen, a 50+-year-old Chinese Malaysian restaurant where the entire kitchen is still fired by wood. They don't make places like this anymore. The food is ethereal--rice is not boiled but steamed in individual metal bowls. Go for the stuffed pig's trotter; red-cooked beef, beef stomach, and tendon; sweet and sour fish; roast duck; stir-fried baby gailan; 'shark's fin' (it's not really) stir-fried with egg and served with iceberg lettuce cups and black vinegar.

Late night snack: Tengkat Tong Shin, a street parallel to the famous Jalan Alor--on the same side of the street as Max! Kitchen (a very good restaurant, by the way) an old guy stir-fries noodles in an alley. His mee sua is wonderful--charred and smoky.

What junk food do you love?

Snyder's pretzels. And chicharon which, thankfully, we can't get too often in Malaysia.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Bony freshwater fish. Too much work.

Can you give three tips for would be food writers/bloggers/photographers?

Food writers Don't go into it for the money (there's very little), be a writer editors love to work with, and lose your ego. Editing for publication can be brutal.

Food bloggers Write what you know, find a niche, and do it because you love it. That said, some bloggers have systematically marketed themselves to earn money from it and have done well. But we just couldn't be bothered if it wasn't something we enjoyed.

Photographers (from Dave) Love what you are shooting, get people involved in the photograph, and don't get hung up on equipment.

What are the future plans for Robyn Eckhardt, David Hagerman and Eating Asia?

We're working on a book proposal, but we'll leave it at that for the moment. It won't be EatingAsia in book form.

Thank you to Robyn for providing the photo.

Table Suggestions: Yummy's Dessert Issue

Yummy's November Issue

There are many things I credit to my wife.

Learning the importance of moisturizing. Understanding the need for multiple pairs of black shoes. And developing a love for excellent design and color. But the one foodie thing that I have learned from her that I most appreciate is a taste for the sweeter things in life, desserts.

Before A, I was a savory kind of a guy, more than willing to skip dessert for another serving of pork chops (except for ice cream, I have always loved ice cream). After A, let's just say that there hasn't been a dessert I have not tried at least once. Now, I even call some desserts favorites.

Whether you are a sugar-high obsessive, a recent dessert convert or an occasional pastry nibbler, we recommend that you pick up a copy of this month's Yummy Magazine: The Dessert Issue. Besides being chockfull of both sweet and savory recipes (as always), Yummy has a list of the very best cakes available in the Philippines that will make you want to lick the pages.

Get a copy of Yummy. Your sweet tooth will thank you for it.

Table Conversation: Congratulations to Antonio's

On behalf of the Three, I would like to congratulate Chef Tonyboy Escalante and the staff of Antonio's Fine Dining for making the Miele Guide's list of Top 20 restaurants in Asia.

It is an honor most definitely deserved. Thank you for putting the Philippines on the world's fine dining map. And as for the rest of us (the dining public), good luck getting a table at Antonio's this holiday season.

Click here and see why we love Antonio's.

Antonio's Fine Dining
Barangay Neogan
Tagaytay City, Cavite
Telephone: (046) 413 0975 or (046) 413 1054
Celphone: (0917) 899 2866
Email: antoniosfarm@yahoo.com

Good Enough to Eat: Food Trip

I much prefer fiction over non-fiction books. Perhaps it's because reading is something I prefer to do on my down time as a diversion, and therefore, I want it to be escapist, in a big way. I am a big fan of magic realism, and realized lately that I'm drawn to stories set in the past, or in a different world (hello, Tolkien)--times and places that I can't go back to or experience myself.

When a friend lent me A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle some years ago, I suppose I was a bit skeptical. It chronicled twelve months out of the life of an Englishman and his wife, who uprooted themselves from their home country to live in the south of France. But after the first page, I was drawn in. Any book that starts with the line, "The year began with lunch" is bound to capture my interest!

Each chapter is about one month in Provence--the husband and wife's experience of moving into a 200-year-old farmhouse, their having to deal with neighbors and a multitude of guests in summer, and, of course, the glorious things that they ate. The book is perhaps one of the most entertaining restaurant guides out there, and it's dangerous to read it when you're hungry. A sample in the first chapter, January, where the couple had dinner at a neighbor's:

"It started with homemade pizza--not one, but three: anchovy, mushroom, and cheese, and it was obligatory to have a slice of each. Plates were then wiped with pieces torn from the two-foot loaves in the middle of the table, and the next course came out. There were pates of rabbit, boar, and thrush. There was a chunky, pork-based terrine laced with marc. There were saucissons spotted with peppercorns. There were tiny sweet onions marinated in a fresh tomato sauce. Plates were wiped once more and duck was brought in. The slivers of magret that appear, arranged in a fan formation and lapped by an elegant smear of sauce on the refined tables of nouvelle cuisine--these were nowhere to be seen. We had entire breasts, entire legs, covered in a dark, savory gravy and surrounded by wild mushrooms.

"We sat back, thankful that we had been able to finish, and watched with something close to panic as plates were wiped yet again and a huge, steaming casserole was placed on the table. This was the specialty of Madame our hostess--a rabbit civet of the richest, deepest brown--and our feeble requests for small portions were smilingly ignored. We ate it. We ate the green salad with knuckles of bread fried in garlic and olive oil, we ate the plump round crottins of goat's cheese, we ate the almond and cream gateau that the daughter of the house had prepared. That night, we ate for England."

Thoroughly engaging, often humorous, and above all, mouth-watering, A Year in Provence changed my mind about reading--and traveling. It was then that I decided that anywhere I went, I would eat well. See, I stick to a budget whenever I travel, and in the past, this meant surviving on the most affordable things that I could find (including--gasp!--canned goods). But no more of this nonsense. I realized that to fully experience a new place, one must experience the food.

And if Mayle's book is any indication, Provence offers one of the richest, most delicious travel experiences out there. Oozing with escapism, the book prodded me to add the south of France to my list of dream destinations. And when I get there, mark my words: I shall eat for the Philippines!

Good Enough to Eat: A Writer's Cook

Tony Bourdain signed my book.

I must admit, he's an acquired taste. I first heard of him, as did a lot of people, through his first press junkets promoting Kitchen Confidential, his memoir. Unfairly enough, all I remember from those shows and interviews is that he somehow made kitchens seem like dirty, dangerous places. "Don't order fish on Sunday", or something like that. He was a whistle blower, a tattle-tale, a snitch. He made no impression on me then.

It was my aunt who gave me a copy of Kitchen Confidential (the same one he signed). It was amazing, and it was amazing without me even noticing the whole section about the fish. (I honestly still cannot remember where it is in the book.) The book opened the doors of the actual professional kitchen, in all its grimy, foul-mouthed, sex, drugs, and rock-and-roll glory. More importantly, the book showed me that the snitch could write. Seriously. The same cook who looked so smarmy (sorry, Tony) in those TV shows had serious writing chops. The prose was direct and lucid, while being both descriptive and thankfully economical with his words.

He was also honest, perhaps to a fault, since the picture he painted of himself was definitely less than flattering. But that snide sense of humor, the visceral descriptions, and the sheer grittiness of the book got me. I was hooked. I bought A Cook's Tour, which detailed his adventures during his first TV stint. It was hilarious and touching and, at times, horrifying. I still can't forget the chapter entitled The Burn. I'll not spoil it for you, but the book is worth it just for that chapter.

He does look shifty, though. Slouchy, reed thin, earring, short, curly hair. He doesn't look like any chef I had in mind. Which was why I believe him. He isn't trying to hide anything; no one would want to look like he does if he were trying to put on an image. He is a real chef, and he had the guts to actually bare himself, flaws and all.

It could have gone South. He could have ended up a pariah in New York, with a bomb of a book. The book could have ruined him. And, maybe if he were any less of a writer, it could very well have.

His success shows me that I can also succeed. I'm no chef, but I can write.

He signed my book. I feel great.

On The Table: Marivic Diaz-Lim

Chef Marivic Diaz-Lim

Remember Tribeca? How about Ñ? If you remember these places, then you would very familiar with the creations of Chef Marivic Diaz-Lim, chef and owner of the ever-popular Apartment 1B. After taking a break to attend to more domestic affairs, Chef Diaz-Lim decided to return and open this restaurant that has become a mecca for food that delights the stomach and warms the heart. Pure comfort food at its very best.

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My Grandma Anita and Auntie Deanna are the people in my life that influenced my cooking. I grew up watching and helping them prepare home cooked meals for our Sunday lunches.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

The New Professional Chef Book which was one of the textbooks assigned to us while I was in the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. It had the biggest impact since it was the first professional cook book I read in the beginning of my learning experience in the field of Culinary Arts.

What was your first job in the food business?

My first job after graduating from the CIA in 1993 was as a Commis chef at the Mark Hotel in NYC.

When did you decide you wanted to open Apartment 1B?

I decided to open Apt. 1b around the time my son turned 1 year old. I had been in the restaurant business since 1996 and went on a break when I got married in late 2003. In 2006 I realized that I needed to fulfill my passion, which is cooking.

What is you favorite item on your menu?

It is my Honey-Bourbon Baby Back Ribs but having said that I love everything I cook.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

I can’t name just one restaurant meal. In general, my dining experiences in Paris are most memorable.

Besides your own place, what is your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Right now it is Shinjuku on Makati Avenue, it is where I have my Japanese comfort food like tempura, gyoza, fried rice and wakame salad.

What junk food do you love?

If you consider ice cream as junk food, it's Haagen Dazs and for real junk food, it's Clover chips (original cheese flavor).

Is there a food you just can’t seem to enjoy?

Yes, I can’t seem to enjoy raw food (sashimi, oysters etc.). I also do not enjoy spicy food too much.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I plan to expand my business concept abroad.

Apartment 1B
Unit 1B G/F One Lafayette Square
132 L.P. Leviste cor. Sedeno Sts.,
Salcedo Village, Makati City
Tel. (02) 843-4075

Good Enough to Eat: Beyond the Plate

Some of My Kitchen Companions

What was I thinking?!

When it came to choosing this month’s topic, I thought that going beyond food on the plate would be an interesting idea. Foodies are spoiled for choice, not just at the dinner table but even with what to read, watch or even listen to. Books, magazines, television shows and even podcasts are like a vast buffet of delights ready to indulge every food passion, desire and fantasy. The mere fact that you are reading this blog is a testament to how prevalent food is in our streams of information and entertainment.

In the end, I guess this topic was inevitable. What I did not realize was how difficult it would be. Not because there wasn't enough food-related media to choose from but because there was too much that I loved. Forced to choose, I made lists, categorized, negotiated, pondered and wondered why the heck did I make it so hard for myself.

After several days of hair pulling, I finally settled on my choices. And although these may not be the only food media that I enjoy, they are definitely the ones that make food absolutely amazing (at least for now).

Fuchsia Dunlop’s Land of Plenty

It was her name that caught my eye.

I first encountered cookbook author and Chinese culinary expert Fuchsia Dunlop in a video on Serious Eats, cooking a Taiwanese version of the popular dish, General Tso Chicken.

One year and a food blog later, I find myself searching high and low for Ms. Dunlop's first cookbook called Land of Plenty. It's easy to assume that Chinese cuisine is a homogeneous set of dishes similar in both ingredients and techniques. If one takes a closer look, a whole new world comes alive, filled with depths of differing regional flavors and textures. One could spend a lifetime understand the complexities of any Chinese regional cuisine. And that's exactly what Ms. Dunlop has done.

In her first cookbook, Ms. Dunlop takes her readers on a tour of the Sichuan province by describing the intricacies of its unique cuisine. Sichuan is known for food that's hot and spicy but Ms. Dunlop shows how it is so much more. Sichuanese cuisine is popular in China for its unique flavoring methods, creating dishes that are complex and diverse. Personally speaking, I couldn't have asked for a better tour guide than this collection of stories and recipes--a gastronomical starting point into the land of Chinese cuisine.

If you are wondering about the title of the book, in English, Sichuan translates into the Land of Plenty.

Mark Bittman’s The Minimalist

Besides being a nationally acclaimed food writer, cookbook author and a television host, Mark Bittman writes a column for the New York Times called The Minimalist.

In the online version of The New York Times, Mr. Bittman not only has his own food blog called Bitten but also, as an extension of his weekly feature, he stars in his own cooking video podcasts. With acerbic wit and a straightforward approach, he demystifies the process of cooking by creating dishes that require the bare minimum of ingredients and effort, thus making cooking at home as stress-free as possible.

I'm by no means a professional chef so I'm all for any help I can get in fashioning a delicious dish with little work and a minimum amount of time but with maximum taste. Admittedly, I haven't made many dishes from Mr Bittman's videos. But watching this guy with his unpolished manner and no-nonsense attitude cook with such a passion for food just makes me want to heat up my stove, break out my pans and get cooking.

For more of The Minimalist on video. To check out Mark Bittman's blog, Bitten.

Bear Grylls’ Man vs. Wild

Edward Michael ‘Bear’ Grylls is a British adventurer, trainer, author and more importantly, the host of the how-to survival show, Man vs. Wild. Each week, Mr. Grylls takes his audience to a different inhospitable locale and demonstrates the techniques and skills necessary to survive–including what one must eat to live.

I admit it. This is not your typical food show. In fact, it isn’t a food show at all. I could have easily gone with the obvious like Top Chef or Food Lover’s Guide to the Planet (aka Diary of a Foodie). But if there is one thing this show proves is that food is not always about pleasure. More often than not, it is about sustenance. Feeding one's self in order to endure. Man vs. Wild also confirms the adage that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. But why exactly does a society’s delicacy (goat's eyes, snake’s blood or yak’s liver) have to be so gruesome to eat? I’ll never know.

But who am I to speak? I come from a culture that advocates the eating of underdeveloped duck fetus as a late night snack. In the end, to each his own.

Catch Man vs. Wild on the Discovery Channel on Thrusdays at 9 pm (Philippine Standard Time)