Banawe Bound: Causeway Seafood Restaurant

It's funny how B and I ended up at a seafood restaurant without actually ordering any seafood. Unless you count the Shark's Fin? Didn't think so.

Our first plan was to go to Wok with Liu, which, I was told, was like a Chinese food version of dampa. With raging tummies, we were about to park when we realized that the place had closed down! Hungry as we were, we didn't want to have to figure out which among the unfamiliar restos would satisfy us, so we ended up at Causeway Seafood Restaurant.

Those in search of hole-in-the-wall, best-kept-secret-type restos might be disappointed with this post. Causeway, after all, is rather mainstream, with a branch in Libis. But it's a good starting point for those who wish to explore Banawe, yet are quite timid in their food choices: It's enough to give you Banawe bragging rights, but it's also a safe enough choice to keep you from sweating bullets about the eats on offer.

We started off with the aforementioned Shark's Fin (P50 for four, but I heard it goes down to P39 after 9:00 p.m.), which, in my opinion, was the highlight of the meal--not because everything else sucked, but because this was Shark's Fin done right. It was a perfect blend of meat, mushroom, and shrimp, and there wasn't an excess of siomai wrapper! You know how the wrapper tends to flake off at those cheap siomai stalls, leaving you with half the Shark's Fin you thought you bought? There was none of that nonsense here!

We likewise enjoyed the Spareribs with Tausi, also P50. I daresay that everything on that roving dumpling cart would be just as good.

A food columnist (I forget which one--perhaps Reggie Aspiras?) once wrote that every time she tried a new Chinese resto, she would order the standards: sweet and sour pork, and lemon chicken. If the resto can't get these two basic dishes right, she reasoned, how can you expect them to do a good job on all the others? I took a page from her rule book and ordered the Fried Chicken with Lemon Sauce (P210 for a small serving--"small" in this case is enough to feed three). If this was any indication of everything else on their menu, then Causeway would be fairly average. The good part was that the sauce wasn't cloyingly sweet.

We also ordered the Spareribs, which were enough to satisfy our craving for meat, but which weren't very memorable.

The Yong-Chow fried rice (P160, small) was likewise pretty average. I would've liked to order the Peking Duck (served two ways, P650 for half) but we were just too full--we still had a lot left over.

What B looked forward to ordering the most was the Tsing Tao Beer (P100), a slightly sweeter take on regular beer. I'm not big on the beer, so I couldn't really tell. It all tastes the same to me! But I'll take his word for it.

I was surprised that our bill added up to over P800--I expected Banawe eating to cost us much less, but Causeway is supposedly one of the higher-end restos in the area. I think you could get the same stuff for much less elsewhere. But to be fair, we probably ordered enough for three, even four (don't believe the menu when it says "small"!). If you do decide to drop by this place, maybe it'd be a good idea to keep the dumpling cart parked beside your table.

Causeway Seafood Restaurant
883 Banaue Street cor. Del Monte
Quezon City
Telephone: (02) 410 8690, (02) 740 8787

Behind the Kitchen Doors: The Lechon Capital of the Philippines

In the Philippines, there are few things that say celebration like a lechon.

A lechon is a suckling pig stuffed with herbs, marinated in the lechonero's secret brew and roasted for several hours over hot charcoal until the skin is a crispy, dark amber. A traditional Filipino centerpiece of any fiesta buffet, everything just seems more festive while tucking into crunch and juicy piece of skin and falling-off-the bone tender, succulent meat.

Maybe it's the time of year or just the need to eat roasted pork. Whatever the reason, my photographer friend Erik and I decide to visit what has been labelled the lechon capital of the Philippines, La Loma. Our hope was to gain a behind-the-scenes look into the creation of this celebrated dish. In the end, we saw and heard much more than we had expected.

Please be warned. Some of the pictures are graphic. If you have certain sensitivities toward animals I would suggest that you not view this slide show. If not, please click here.

Note: Once viewing the slide show, click on the pictures to read more information

To Serafin Cesario, Ate Rose and the hard working lechoneros of La Loma, many thanks.

Table Suggestions: Madison Grill

After our On the Table interview, Chef Sau del Rosario informed us that he was consulting on an upscale restaurant called Madison Grill at the Ayala Trinoma Mall in Quezon City. Wanting to erase the unhappy memory of my last food trip to Trinoma, I decide that I would drop by and have a meal.

From its name, the restaurant primarily focuses on their grilled items like the Wagyu and Angus beef steaks, Australian lamb chops and Japanese Kurobuta pork. But what intrigues guests are the open pizza station and traditional pizza oven within the restaurant's dining area. Giving diners a bit of a show as their pizzas are assembled and baked before their eyes (and watering mouths).

Until Mariko and Stich get a chance to visit, I won't go into detail about our meal at Madison. I will warn you that it is pricey. But I think it's worth of try and possibly even a return visit.

Madison Grill
3rd Level Park
Trinoma Mall
Edsa cor North Avenue
Quezon City
Telephone: (02) 934 1572

Many thanks to our server, Ryan. Good service should always be acknowledged.

Table Recipes: Roasted Banana Ice Cream with Nutella Swirl

I don't know many Pinoys who don't like banana-que.

For those of you not familiar with this uniquely Filipino comfort food, think of it as our version of caramel apples. But instead of apples, we use deep-fried bananas covered with caramelized brown sugar. Yum. You would be hard pressed to find anyone born the Philippines who does not have fond memories of this sugar-laden treat.

When I came across a recipe for this street side delicacy in ice cream form, I tossed my freeze bowl into the freezer and got mixing. Instead of baking the slices of banana, I decide to cook them the way we make our banana-que, fried in butter while sprinkling brown sugar over each side as it sautes. Also, I decide to add a swirl of Nutella. Who can resist a banana and Nutella combination? Not me.

Roasted Banana Ice Cream with Nutella Swirl
Adapted from David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop

3 medium-sized bananas, peeled and sliced 1/2 inch pieces lengthwise
1/3 cups light brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter, cut into small cubes
1 1/2 cups milk
2 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon villa extract
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1/3 cups Nutella, melted down to syrup consistency

• In a large non-stick pan, saute bananas in butter. Slowly sprinkle brown sugar over both side of each slice. Cook until medium caramel in color.
• Transfer bananas and accompanying thick syrup into a blender or food processor. Add milk, granulated sugar, vanilla, lemon juice and salt and puree until smooth.
• Chill the mixture in the refrigerator and freeze it in the ice maker, following the manufacturer's instructions.
• Once it reaches a soft-serve consistency, pour the ice cream in airtight storage container. Carefully, layer the Nutella syrup as you pour.

Makes one liter

The end result? An amazingly rich and thick banana ice cream with a distinctive flavour of caramel. Not to forget, the occasional taste of chocolate nuttiness only Nutella can bring.

My Ice Cream Bible

Just a short note about David Lebovitz and his tome, The Perfect Scoop.

Mr. Lebovitz is simply a genius. And his book is a testament to that. I have found my personal bible to all frozen desserts. Mr. Lebovitz is truly an inspiration to us, amateur ice cream makers. Thank you, David. End of rave.

Many, many thanks to my sweet A. You are the best. What would I do without you?

The Travelling Table: Tucked Away in Tagaytay

I thought Bag of Beans was just a quaint little bakeshop selling breads and pies, as proclaimed by its signage. But this little store along the Tagaytay main highway hides a pleasant surprise—right beside it is a small gate and a flight of stairs leading down to an utterly charming resto.

A few vines might graze your head as you make your way down the stone steps. As you head to the main restaurant, you’ll find customers enjoying the cool breeze, taking their meal in one of the little gazebos or sitting around a table under the mild Tagaytay sun. There is no view of the lake, but Mother Nature is present in the lovely hodgepodge garden—no manicured lawns here. And fashionistas, take heart: No need to fret that your chi-chi high heels will sink into the soil as the ground is covered with pebbles.

On my recent visit, it was just too cold outdoors, so B and I opted for a table inside. (I am a woman of the tropics!) And even though I wasn’t surrounded by lush greenery, I still didn’t feel like I was missing out—the rustic tropical interiors still gave me the feeling that I was in a place made for relaxing: Beyond the usual tables and chairs, comfortable daybeds overflowed with plump pillows, swags of white cloth drooped from the beams near the ceiling, and weathered wooden doors opened up to the delightfully unkempt gardens.

We were given the menu, which featured much more than pies and bread: main courses, grilled selections, pasta, desserts, soup and salad. I was eyeing the Pink Salmon Fillet (P350), but alas, they had run out of it. So I settled for the Chicken Breast Fillet and Pasta (P275). I chose the white sauce over the red sauce because I’m a sucker for anything creamy! In this case, however, I discovered that there can be too much of a good thing—my pasta was just swimming in the aforementioned sauce. I like my noodles lightly coated. The chicken could have used a bit more flavor, but I had no complaints about the portion size. I got two chicken breast fillets with my pasta!

B, manly man that he is, chose the Porterhouse (P425), served with some really buttery mashed potatoes (yum). The meat was quite tender, but it too lacked flavor. The good thing is we had a savior on hand—a bottle of HP Sauce! It was the first time we’d ever encountered it and loved how it added an extra zing to the steak (and even to my chicken).

After the heavy meal, I hardly had any room for dessert, but I decided to order anyway. You know, for research’s sake. I really wanted the Apple Pie ala Mode (P120), but figured I might as well get something I wouldn’t be able to find at just any other resto. I chose the Mixed Fruit Pie (P85), one of their specialties. It was filled with bits of apple, pineapple, mango, and peach, and was served deliciously warm. I would have enjoyed it more if it had a little less crust though.

So yeah, the food wasn’t spectacular, but it wasn’t bad either. Besides, I’ve realized that Bag of Beans isn’t a place you go to just for the food—you go for the experience. And for that alone, I would definitely go back.

P.S. I’m not a coffee drinker, but my research tells me that Bag of Beans serves that famous Alamid coffee—the stuff made from civet droppings. (Ahh, just one of the reasons I don’t drink coffee…)

On the Table: Tan Su Lyn

From experience we can tell you, making a great blog is never a one man (or woman) show. One way or another, a great food blog is always a collaborative effort. Take for example, Chubby Hubby. Although most attention is focused upon Aun Koh aka CH, many fans know that his wife, Tan Su Lyn better known as S. plays a large part in blog's success. A brillant writer and an editor of many well-known books, Su Lyn is Chubby Hubby's behind-the-screen editor and occassional contributor. It is their shared passion for all things gastronomic that binds them together and creates blogging magic.

So Su Lyn, tell us about yourself.

There isn’t much to tell. I am Singaporean. I grew up in Singapore but spent 6 years in Perth, Western Australia (where alongside getting a BA in Media Studies and PR, I developed a love for cooking and a greater appreciation for good food). In truth, I probably spent more time in the kitchen in the final few years of my studies than I did at the computer writing my honors thesis and beginnings of my doctoral thesis (which I still haven’t completed). Serendipitously, when I returned to Singapore, I applied for a job at a local weekly entertainment magazine and got hired! I realized that I loved writing about food more than I did about meeting Johnny Depp, Mariah Carey and Ricky Martin. So I eventually moved on to focus on writing about food. Over the 10 years I have been writing professionally, I have worked on a food magazine, books on food, as well as cookbooks. I feel very lucky to be able to have a career that revolves around a subject that I love.

How and when did you decide to make food your life's work?

My initial attraction to food writing took seed at my first job, where I worked closely with a boss who loved restaurants and food passionately. His enthusiasm was infectious. But I have to say that it became an obsession when I met CH. We were both writing about food when we first met at a restaurant tasting. I guess we added fuel to one another’s passion for food and wine! It’s scary to think that when we first moved in together, we probably had no more than 10 cookbooks between the 2 of us. We now have over 400 at last count. Of late, it has been even greater fun putting cookbooks together as a team.

You are a very accomplished food writer and editor, why not make you own food blog?

I don’t have the kind of energy CH has. But I like to think of the blog as not just his, but ours. Although I may not officially write most posts, I have edited or at least proof read the majority of them. We often discuss what should go into a post, and certainly a good deal of what is cooked and/or eaten is done collaboratively. It reflects our life together, and I don’t feel the need to duplicate that. We have made many friends through the blog, and interestingly, some people email me rather than CH. Perhaps they have specific questions they prefer that I respond to, or they might have accidentally chanced upon my address rather than his, but we do feel that the blog is run by both of us. Any questions he gets about cookie cutters, ovens or making ice-cream are automatically forwarded to me.

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?

I love visiting Matt Bites, Nordljus and The Traveler's Lunchbox. Matt, Keiko and Melissa are generous souls, eloquent writers and fabulous photographers. They inspire me.

It’s difficult to pick just one favourite cookbook. I just can’t! I do love Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. Even though some of the recipes are ludicrously elaborate, if you do get into them, they actually work. When I want to cook for my own (rather than my husband’s or my guests’) pleasure, I enjoy dipping into Joyce Goldstein’s Italian Slow and Savoury. For sheer unattainable fantasy, I flip through the pages of Pierre Herme’s PH10 (yes, it’s in French, and no, I cannot read French). But the one cookbook I own that’s threatening to fall apart is probably Barbara Tropp’s The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking.

TV show-wise, we’re currently obsessed with Gordon Ramsay’s The F Word. It has all the elements of engaging reality TV and, well, it’s just there, readily available on TV (I’m not much of a TV junkie).

I collect Donna Hay’s magazine obsessively. I have every single issue since she first launched it. And in all honesty, I just love the gorgeous pictures.

What would you cook in the following situations?

A surprise visit by the in-laws

Um, that just doesn’t happen—ever. But if I had to, I’d probably throw together a simple seafood or vegetable pasta, something light, healthy and fresh—probably with Japanese flavours--because my parents-in-law appreciate those elements in their food.

A sudden craving for comfort food

Easy. Baked beans on buttered toast, or sardines and hard boiled eggs on buttered toast. I am a girl with simple needs. These dishes hit the spot for me.

Your husband is in a foul mood

Steamed savoury custard filled with minced pork marinated with soy sauce and Chinese wine, and studded with salted duck egg yolk. It’s HIS comfort food.

What food related habits of your husband, do you hate and why?

His eyes are bigger than his stomach. He tends to order way too much food when we dine out.

What is typical weekend with Chubby Hubby like?

Exhausting. We usually squeeze in at least one movie, lunch with family, a dinner party and brunch with friends.

Say I'm visiting Singapore for one day, where would you and husband take me for breakfast, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?

Breakfast at Ya Kun Kaya Toast for a quintessential Singaporean breakfast of soft boiled eggs and toast, lunch at Iggy’s, Lana’s chocolate cake for tea, cocktails at Coffee Bar K and dinner at Sin Huat Eating House in Geylang for crab beehoon.

Can you give three tips for would be food writers?

1. Set out to be a writer first, and food writer second. By this, I mean that one needs to learn the ropes. There are only that many jobs available for people who want to write about food. Learn how to write well wherever you get the chance to, even if you don’t get to write about food. While you’re doing that, read widely and learn about food on your own time as well.

2. It takes time. Unfortunately, to write about food well, you need to have eaten well. I don’t mean that you have to have eaten at the most expensive restaurants. But you do need to taste lots of different kinds of food and learn to focus on what you’re tasting, and then learn to articulate the experience. Start with what you’re most familiar with, but be adventurous.

3. If you’re passionate about the subject, you’ll find that there are lots of people who are willing to share their knowledge and experience with you. Reach out to people. If you are genuinely interested in learning, there are plenty of people who will be happy to help you along the way. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.

Thanks to Su Lyn for the picture and Margaux for getting the ball rolling.

Table Recipes: Strawberry, Nutella and Banana French Toast

I love brunch.

Simply because you can eat breakfast food late in the day and people wouldn't think of it as odd. One of things I love making is a variation of Jaime Oliver's recipe. This dish is an improved version of a brunch staple, French Toast. But here, what you create is a French Toast Sandwich with a sweet, fruity filling.

Since there seems to be an abundance of strawberries in the local markets, I decided to create a version using these lovely red berries adding a bit of Nutella for a nutty chocolate kick.

Strawberry, Nutella, Banana French Toast
Adapted from Jaime's Dinners by Jaime Oliver

4 pieces sliced bread
2 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1 cup of strawberries, quartered
1/2 of a medium banana, mashed
2 tablespoons Nutella
caster sugar
butter
whipped cream

• Beat the eggs in bowl and mix in the milk.
• In another bowl, gently mix together 3/4 cup of the strawberries, the mashed banana and Nutella.
• Thinly butter each side of the sliced bread and dip each slice in the egg mixture.
• Place the strawberry mixture between two pieces of sliced bread and gently press down.
• In a non-stick pan, fry the french toast with some melted butter.
• Once golden brown and slightly crisp, transfer to a plate.
• Sprinkle with sugar. Garnish with the reserved strawberries and dollop of whipped cream.

Makes two servings

For this recipe, you can use any fruit combination you want: Blueberries and bananas. Bananas and melted chocolate. Sliced mangoes and condensed milk. Anything your heart desires. Have fun and enjoy.

Many thanks to Stich and K. for their help.

Banawe Bound: Fook Yuen Food Center

Fook Yuen Crabs

Franco's note: A little bit of a change this month. Instead of the usual three impressions of one restaurant, we will be writing about a food destination that piqued our interest, namely Banawe Avenue. The three of us will be visiting three different restaurants along Banawe Avenue. Enjoy reading.

For those of you unfamiliar with Metro Manila, Banawe Avenue is well known for one thing, after-sale car parts. From wheel rims to steering wheels, from spark plugs to seat covers, if it's a part of car, it's almost certain that one of the myriad of shops along this avenue has it for sale. But since this is still a food blog, we won't get into that.

This was my impression of Banawe. Until, I stumbled upon this post. Interesting. Who would have guessed that over the years Banawe would have some of the most authentic Chinese restaurants in Manila outside of Binondo, Manila's old Chinatown? I just couldn't resist. So after doing some consulting, I chose to visit the crab place, Fook Yuen Food Center.

Let's get this out of the way first. The place is small--25 seats maximum. During lunch, it can get noisy and very crowded. With its white interiors, linoleum covered tables and plastic monobloc chairs, this food center is far from being a luxe Chinese restaurant. In fact, I imagine that under the definition of 'hole-in-the-wall', there is a picture of Fook Yuen.

With that said, let's talk food. After taking our order, our waitress runs off and disappears in the back of the room. She returns holding a fat, very dark green crab, still alive and snapping. We ask for a smaller crab but she retorts that this 800 gram crustacean beauty is smallest they have. We approve. After a momentary wait, our crab returns to our table ready to be devoured.

Fook Yuen Crab (P100/100 grams) is amazingly delicious. The crab, quartered and dismembered, is served in a creamy curry sauce which, I imagine, started off as milky white but has turned a light yellow-orange because of the infused crab fat. The scent of crab, ginger and leeks steaming from the dish is simply divine. My mouth waters.

Eating crab is neither a clean nor civilized affair. It requires some effort and you will get your hands dirty. But in the end, the reward is worth it. The crab is fat and the flesh is succulent. Pouring the crab fat-enriched sauce over a bowl of streaming hot rice and tucking in is just blissful.

Salt and Pepper Frog's Legs

In the middle of relishing our crab, the side dish of Salt and Pepper Frog's Legs (P190) arrives. Initially, what surprises you about this dish is the size of the legs. They are unusually large. Seasoned, lightly battered and fried, these legs are a much-needed, delectable break from the rich fatty crab. The dish alone is tasty but it's hard to ignore the star of the table.

I admit that I love eating in small, out-of-the-way places. The adventure of discovering restaurants like Fook Yuen Food Center always intrigues me. Would I go back? Absolutely. Whether my car needs an overhaul or not.

Fook Yuen Food Center
558 Banawe Street
corner Samat Street
Quezon City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 711-3057, (02) 740 7849

Many thanks to Tanya and docchef for pointing the way.

Table Recipes: Tomato Soup with Truffle Oil

Three reasons for this dish.

First, the weather has been unseasonably cold these past few days. In my opinion, nothing warms up like a hot bowl of soup. Secondly, We just got a panini press. I just couldn't resist having a soup and sandwich brunch. And lastly, because of a misinterpreted shopping list, we ended up with way too many tomatoes. I guess if life gives you tomatoes. You make tomato soup.

I am a huge fan of Jamie Oliver. In many ways, Jamie reintroduced me to cooking. With his easy-going and humorous manner, this chef makes cooking uncomplicated, accessible and even fun. This dish is all about comfort. It's simple and relatively quick to make.

Tomato Soup with Truffle Oil
Adapted from Jaime's Dinners by Jamie Oliver

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and grated
6 tablespoons double cream
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
2 eggs yolks
1 kg very ripe tomatoes*
1 litre chicken stock
sea salt and ground black pepper
A handful of basil, leaves pick and stalks finely chopped
olive oil
truffle oil

• In a large pot, saute the onions, garlic and carrot and basil stalks in olive oil. Cover the pot and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
• Whisk the cream, vinegar and egg yolks together in a bowl and put aside.
• Drop the tomatoes into boiling water for 30 seconds. Then gently move them into an ice bath. Remove the skins and roughly chop the remaining flesh.
• Add the the chopped tomatoes to the sauteing vegetables. Add the stock and simmer again for another 20 minutes. Lid on, please.
  
• Puree the soup with a blender, food processor or immersion blender
• Return the pureed soup into the pot. Bring it back to a simmer and season to taste with sea salt and black pepper.
• Before serving, stir the cream mixture into the soup. It gives the soup a shiny and silky texture.**
• Garnish with finely torn basil leaves and truffle oil.

Serves 4 generously

* You can subsitute this with canned tomatoes.
** Don't reboil the soup after this point or you might end up with tomato flavored scrambled eggs.

Some may find this soup a bit rich. I would suggest you serve it with some bread. It helps cut the acidity. I myself love this dish with a warm French baguette.

So Long, Salamia. Hello, Mariko.

As a dear friend of mine says, the only constant in life is change.

Another chair at the table is empty once again. Salamia is moving on.

Stich and I will miss her. But, we know that she will be going on to bigger and better things. To Salamia, thank you so much for being part of this little endeavour.

Moving on, join us in welcoming Mariko to Table for Three, Please. She will be join us this December. I for one, am looking forward to your first post.

Remember, it is always about the food...