Verbena Day

I've long been hearing of Verbena, but only from a very select few and these people aren't even part of the foodie world. Though I was told the food was good, these people didn't go into the details, so I thought it was just another pretty place. D and I went to Tagaytay wanting to go to a pretty place and what we found was not only pretty, but pretty awesome.

Let me start by sharing how visually attractive the place is. Oh, it's nothing spectacular or cute, but there's just something about how things are fixed up that keeps my eyes open and want to take pictures of nonfood items.

Then we check out the menu.

This is the Drink List (I couldn't find my menu photo! Shucks.)

Wow. Things aren't cheap here (I know. I know. I should've checked out their online menu.) and I didn't want to let D spend so much (We take turns treating each other out and my treat was uber...cheap.), so I searched for the meals with the more reasonable prices. D, oblivious to my concerns, loudly proclaims that he is in the mood for Eggs Benedict. Before I can tell him that there was no such thing on the menu, the waiter comes to my rescue and recommends the Bavarian Mushroom Croute (Php280) which, claims the waiter, is similar to Eggs Benedict.

Mushroom Croute

When we tried it --- oh my gasp --- it was even better than our favorite Eggs Benedict! The eggs remained to be the superstars in this dish, but their flavors were coaxed and enhanced by this mushroom sauce that keeps you hanging and wanting more at every swallow you make. And did I mention the mushrooms? Oh my. The mushrooms were just SO fresh!!! "Panalo!" D couldn't have said it better.

Salad Composee

Next comes the Salad "Composee" (Php250). This one won't go to my scrapbooks, but its roasted bell peppers will! They're all I remember in this salad and wow, did they impress me!

Verbena Sampler Platter

(1) Grilled Norwegian Salmon with Arugula Mushroom Salad - It was okay. I should've requested that my salmon be cooked medium rare. It was interesting though to taste salmon more like meat rather than fish. It had none of the fishy taste (lansa) at all, which is good because D doesn't like that kind of fishy taste.

(2) BBQ Lamb Baby Back Ribs - This was delicious! I wish though that the lamb taste was more evident.

(3) U.S. Beef Short Ribs Goulash - Now this is my favorite! Didn't taste like my staple goulash favorite, but I was very happy with this version. With most goulash, it's the blend of the sauce and the almost-shredded beef that gives you the punch. Verbena's version holds back the sauce and allows the beef to show off its meaty delight. Guess they have to do this to point out the difference between U.S. Beef and some other beef.

Verbena's Sampler Plate are two firsts for me. First time that a restaurant can truly be proud of a sampler plate. First time that a sampler plate can feed two humonguous appetites!

Long after we left, I couldn't stop telling friends about Verbena. Know what they told me? I was the first foodie they know who gives the food details. Must be some secret pact somewhere.

I know D and I will be back and for the next visits, no more guilt feelings, no more hesitation to let D (or even myself!) spend. It is money well spent.

The Best Burgers in Town by our Table Guest, Christine

Franco's note: When we asked Christine of Ramblings from a Gypsy Soul to join us in our last Table Conversation on the best burgers in town, we were expecting maybe a one or two paragraphs reply. Instead, we received this. An answer so comprehensive and complete, it deserved its own post. So here it is, a Gypsy's ramblings on the best burgers in town...

I was quite amused and challenged when I saw the topic for this post because compared to most people I know, I'm not much of a burger person. Don't get me wrong, I love burgers just as much as the next person, but I rarely go out of my way for it and am definitely no expert. This is just one of those things I prefer home-made, with all my good stuff mixed in or crammed in and made to my liking.

I'm not spared though from the occasional burning need to have a burger in my hands and it's juices streaking down to my elbows, when dining out. Listed below, in no particular order, are burgers found here in Manila that I love; burgers that I will be happy to feast on instead of my usual pasta at my favorite Italian restaurant; burgers that, in my opinion, will make converts of even the most cantankerous non-burger chompers out there:

Chili's Peppercorn Burger - If you crave good old-fashioned chunky American hamburgers with heaping home-style fries to go with it, Chili's can't be beat! Their original Oldtimer is great but my favorite has to be the Peppercorn Burger. The massive patty is grilled and crusted with crushed peppercorn and aside from the usual trio of pickles, lettuce and tomato, it is crowned with Awesome Blossom - Chili's famous battered and deep-fried onion strings - for that perfect crunch. But wait! That's not all. There's bleu cheese too, and I adore bleu cheese especially in my burger, but there isn't enough on the burger so you have to ask for extra on the side.

The Barbarian from Kublai's Rock in Magallanes (above photo)- The burger for your inner savage! The best part about this juicy half-pound burger is that it's wrapped in bacon and topped with oozing melted cheese! It's It's not uncommon for me to skip the Mongolian buffet altogether in favor of this big guy, considering the buffet is what I usually go for. Everything about it is perfect, down to the bun which is in fact that the same bread they slice up and serve with their appetizers. If the size is too daunting, you can order the smaller Barbarian's Wife.

Bun on the Run's Choriburger - Who doesn't love this?! That soft crumby bun, the crunchy coleslaw, the spicy and delicious chorizo patty and that creamy soft cheese! Oof, I'm drooling now! Even the funky smelling burps that lasted two days long were not enough to put me off. I was among the many who mourned it's demise a few years back and rejoiced in it's revival at Metrowalk. Yup, I drove to Pasig as soon as I found out and am happy to note it's almost as good as the original. It may have decreased slightly in size but this is still the best choriburger in town.

Hot Shot's Kamikaze Burger - When I prepare my own burgers, I like to crumble bleu cheese on top or slather it in wasabi mayo before I slap on the top bun. Wasabi mayo, like bleu cheese, propels the burger to a whole new dimension which is why these are my favorite burger toppings. Hot shots achieves this with it's quarter-pound Kamikaze burger and at a great price of only P90. The wasabi mayo in the Kamikaze is not so in-your-face, it's mild enough so even the uninitiated could handle it.

For my 5th choice, I am torn between the Boracay chorizo burger and Brother's Burger. But since I already mentioned the Choriburger, I'll go with Brother's Burger with cheese and sauteed mushroom. The patty is flame-broiled and tender and already pretty good on it's own but when topped with their special cheese and yummy sauteed mushrooms, it is excellent! Brother's really doesn't have a bad burger, they're all good. Ok, it's not technically a burger, but have you tried their Cheese Steak sandwich?! Ooh la la! Now if only they bring back their wasabi mayo.

So much for not being a burger enthusiast huh? ;) Thank you for inviting me to be a Table Guest, guys!

Never Hurts To Ask...

I have known Becky Kho for a while now. First, through her lovely Flickr photo stream (I love the Web 2.0), then later as the editor of Yummy magazine. After many traded e-mails, Becky finally agreed to be our Table Guest. The Three of us were thrilled.

We love Yummy. It's the best thing to happen in the Philippine food scene in a long while. As you flip through the pages, you really sense the love and passion the staff have for food and a real understanding of what readers want and need. Yummy just gets better with every issue.

In the month's issue, we were pleasantly surprised that Becky mentioned us (along with other amazing bloggers) in her Editor's Note. It's small. If you blink you might miss us. But, to be mentioned in a magazine we admire...priceless.

Thank you Becky and thanks to the staff of Yummy for coming out with a great magazine, again and again.

Table Conversation: The Best Burger in Town

Franco says:

I just got back from The Burger Bar by Massimo at the Cliffhouse in Tagaytay. I heard from a friend, G. that their Wagyu Burger is a definite must try. What did I think?

Although their Burger was well seasoned, juicy and grilled to my idea of proper doneness (medium-rare, of course), I can't say that i was bowled over by it. And for P900 for two people, I think these burgers need a serious reality check.

So after this somewhat satisfying, yet seriously over priced meal, who do you think makes the best burger in town?


Chef Paul and Nina Poblador of Kusina Salud say:

The best burger for us is The Manor Burger at Billy King's Le Chef at The Manor in Baguio. It's the best because its prepared ala minute and the meat is cooked to preference (doneness), and it just tastes so gourmet even if its the simplest thing on earth.


Wysgal of Rants and Raves says:

Best burgers for me would be the ones in Brother's Burger. Whether youget a plain meaty burger dripping with fat from all the meat oils, charred and crusty on the outside but soft and tender on the inside, with a bit of tangy sweet tomato ketchup, or with anything from their menu of toppings (blue cheese, cheddar cheese, sour cream, bacon, etc).

For store-bought burgers I love the ones of Tender Bob's (they sell these in Shopwise). Patties are nice and small so you don't feel overwhelmed by the size, with just the right amount of fat in the meat to keep it nice and juicy. It's almost impossible to overcook these.


Pam Lim, Food Editor of Yummy Magazine says:

Though I'm not a burger fan, I love Sango in Mile Long, Fight Club (but only the one in Katipunan. The one in Bora sucks big time!), Brothers Burger, and the one in The Jeepney in Intercon.

Some people like the foie gras burger in Cafe Ysabel, but it's not for me.


Socky of Tennis and Conversation says:

I am not much into burgers, but if and when i get the craving, I go to Brothers' Burger. The burgers are beefy, juicy, grilled - just how I like my burgers. With generous blue cheese dressing, and wedges (not thin, extruded french fries) of fried potatoes... yum! And if I'm feeling more carnivorous and extravagant, I go for their Angus beef version. Haven't tried the lamb burger, but now that we're in the subject of burgers, maybe I should drop by and order one.

The fact that Brothers Burger offers a lot of choices puts it right there at the top of my list. Does this sound like a commercial?


Pencilmouth says:

Top of the Citi's Foie Gras Burger. Yes, it's ludicrous, and that's exactly why it's the best. It's just about as over the top as you can get: an excellent beef burger, juicy, flavorful, with a foie gras center.

Granted, the foie gras is probably the size of a marble, but when you hit it, somehow it seems a lot bigger than that.

Thanks to Chef Paul, Nina, Wysgal, Pam, Socky and Pencilmouth for answering the call and a special thanks to cknlomein for her burger photo

My Conumdrum: Restaurant Verbena

Welcome to Verbena

I have a bias against hotel restaurants. It probably has something to do with the theme park feel of such establishments. A cold and calculated precision of how such places are operated. A feeling of creating a product to sell, instead of pursuing and sharing a passion. An unfair judgement? Admittedly, yes.

My likings tend to move toward the small, independently-run restaurants. Restaurants run by individuals whose love of food have made them decide to live their lives fulfilling this passion; make it their life's work.

This is my conundrum. Restaurant Verbena.

I know that Restaurant Verbena is owned by the Discovery Group but one cannot help but taken in by the charm of this place. A converted summer home, this property exudes a warm, comforting feeling. It is small and intimate and yet, it has the fingerprints of a well-oiled corporate hotel establishment.

Love it? Hate it? I decide to place my biases aside and let Verbena speak for itself.

Leo, our server for the day seats us, smilingly hands us our menus and returns promptly to take our drink order and later, our food order. As expected the service is spot on, friendly, courteous and yet not overtly familiar. The standard of good Filipino service in such places. For the distance you travelled and the price you pay, how can you expect anything less?

Organic Mozzarella Cheese Pot

Once we settled down, we begin with our opening course, the Organic Mozzarella Cheese Pot(P260). This dish served in cast iron hot pot, along with wedges of Foccacia bread to dip the warm cheesy concoction.

Biting into this cheese-tomato fondue was like eating a deconstructed margarita pizza. The oozing mozzarella cheese, the tangy tomato sauce and the distinctive hints of basil and oregano made this dish flavorful but not an overtly thrilling dish. It was familiar. But after the relatively long drive, familiar was exactly what we needed to get us started.

US Angus Short Rib Goulash

As I have said in an early post, I love stews. And this stew was no exception. These cuts of Angus beef made even more 'falling off the bone' tender are slowly cooked in a tomato based sauce. Flavored with roasted onions and given a caraway seed top note, this US Angus Short Rib Goulash(P360) was warm, rich and flavorful. What better to accompany this stew? Chef David created this creamy potato puree. This buttery mash of potatoes finely pureed to a creamy consistence, was the best I have ever had.

My only qualm about this dish? There was not enough.

Crispy Seared Pork Belly

When one read this about this dish on the menu, you cannot help but be drawn to it. Except for you vegans out there, who doesn't like pork? This dish could have easily gone the way of a Lechon Kawali, fried to an inch of its life, tough, dry and virtually, inedible. I'm happy to say that this dish is far from that.

The Crispy Seared Pork Belly (P420) literally melts in your mouth. The meat is roasted to a tenderness that it almost makes chewing unnecessary. And as a nice contrast, the pork crackling provides a crispy bite. The sherry-prune reduction that accompanies this dish is more sweet than savory. The sweetness of this sauce is a perfect complement to this roast pork dish.

Crabmeat and Grilled Corn Ravioli

When we asked Chef David Pardo de Ayala, the Corporate Chef of the Discovery Group, what his favorite dish at Restaurant Verbena was, he specifically mentioned the Crabmeat and Grilled Corn Ravioli (P360). With that recommendation, this dish became a definite must try.

Each fluffy pillow of ravioli is stuffed full of shredded crabmeat and kernels of corn. Along with the creamy pesto-like sauce, the stuffed pasta dish becomes a virtual symphony in your mouth. The sweetness of the crabmeat, the velvet texture of the sauce, the bite of grilled corn bits would have made this dish the winner of this meal but I found the ravioli a bit too al dente for my liking.

A cup of tea

As much as A. and I wanted to try their famous Panna Cotta Heaven (P220 for two), we decided to pass. Brimming with cheesy sauces and rich, tender meats, we could not eat another bite. Dessert will have to wait for another time. Instead, we ended with a nice cup of tea.

Love it or hate it? One thing cannot be denied. Restaurant Verbena is a fabulous escape. A place to have a great meal, take in the breathtaking view of Taal Lake and let the day (or night) pass you by.

Franco's Note: By some twist of fate, we ended up returning to Restaurant Verbena and decided to try out their Panna Cotta Heaven. Sorry, no pictures. But let me put it this way, calling it 'Heaven' is very apt. Please try it as soon as you can.

Restaurant Verbena
Discovery Country Suites
300 Calamba Road, San Jose, Tagaytay City
4120 Philippines
Telephone: (63 46) 413.4567
E-mail: rsvn@discovery.com.ph
Website: www.discoverycountrysuites.com

On the Table: Chef Gene Gonzalez of Cafe Ysabel

At 23, Chef Gene Gonzalez opened his first restaurant, Cafe Ysabel. Since then, he has opened other restaurants and a culinary school called Center of Asian Culinary Studies. He is a Ten Outstanding Young Men awardee in the culinary arts and an author of a volume of books called Pinoy Classic Cuisine Series. Chef Gene is simply an icon of the Philippine culinary landscape.

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

My grandmother, Dona Rosario Arnedo Gonzalez, a person who maintained a traditional Kapampangan household with a huge kitchen staff that revolved around produce and seasons.

Which book has had the biggest impact?

The book was Great Chefs of Europe - all the greats from Bocuse, Guerard, etc and their dedication to fine dining.

What was your first job in the food business?

I waited on tables in our small coffee shop called Sugar and Spice when I was twelve.

When did you decide you wanted food to be your life?

I was a banker and a good one with a hobby for cooking. What made me quit my banking job though and plunge into serious cooking was the movie, Who's Killing the Great Chef of Europe? Starring Jacqueline Bissel, Rober Marley & George Segal. When I saw the passion for cookery, I wanted to be a chef and quit the next day.

Where has your passion for food taken you (literally or figuratively)?

It has taken in and taken off a few pounds. It was put me on TV and gotten me guestings abroad. It has created intrigues. It has seduced but best of all it has gotten me so many friends and so may fantastic experiences. I could have become rich following other paths but even the rich would become envious of the adventures that came my way via cuisine.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

Several memorable meals I've eaten by the masters such as Bocuse, Heaberlin, Le Divellec, Guerard, Chapel and Puck.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

I like Lolo Dad's because of Chef Ariel's untiresome dedication to his art. I also like Prince Albert, if only because it is the last bastion of fine dining left in the country. When this restaurant goes, fine dining may disappear.

What junk food do you love?

I actually like the little Thai snacks and nibbles of every sort.

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

Tinned or canned food, unless it's caviar.

Just between us, what are your future plans?

I'm pursuing my cuisine which integrates Asian ingredients together to form a distinct cuisine that bridges eastern flavors together.

The photo of Chef Gene is from their website. Click here for more information.

Cafe Ysabel
455 P. Guevarra St. cor C.M. Recto
San Juan, Metro Manila
Telephone: (632) 726-9326, (632) 722-0349

The Travelling Table: Kusina Salud

Welcome to Kusina Salud

During a family dinner, our discussion turn once again to food. More specifically, where to eat for an upcoming vacation to Baguio. The usual restaurants are mentioned. Then, my sister, C, the culinary goddess, declares that one of best restaurants in Baguio is a place called Salud Bistro.

Mental note to self. Google: "Salud Bistro", Baguio.

I find out that Salud Bistro is operated by a husband and wife team, Chef Paul Poblador and Nina Tesoro. He cooks and she handles the books. From a renovated section of fashion icon Patis Tesoro's (Nina's mom) Baguio summer home, Chef Paul created dishes by adapting locally available ingredients to dishes with decidedly European origins.

But sadly, I also discover that Salud Bistro is no more. It's been closed since October 2005. But there is a silver lining to this grey culinary cloud.

With the closing of their Baguio establishment, Chef Paul and Nina moved their entire culinary team into another Patis summer retreat (fashion pays well, I'm guessing). This time, they're based in San Pablo, Laguna. This means only one thing, a road trip to Kusina Salud.

In my opinion, food trips should never be done alone. So after sending out some quick e-mails, Senor Macho, Sharky and ten other friends enthusiastically join in. I contact Nina to make reservations. An e-mail conversation ensures. Given the size of our group, Nina and I arrange to have special menu of items not usually served in the restaurant or "off the menu". All created by Chef Paul.

Times are set. Transportation arrangements are made. Maps are download. Road trip.

A little note on the map. Kusina Salud has a website where they provide diners a map and directions. The map is seriously not to scale and it only provides you with a general idea for where you're supposed to pass. The directions, for the most part, are more helpful but they can be confusing at times (what exactly is a junction or a blind curve?), especially on an empty stomach. Consider yourself warned.

We arrived in Kusina Salud after a fairly uneventful, two hour drive. After we park our cars, we walk through a weather-worn, gated archway into a place that feels more nature park than restaurant. A short walk through a secret garden and you're suddenly at the front door of the restaurant.

Kusina Salud's interiors are exactly what one would expect, being the former summer home of Patis Tesoro. It is space that adheres to a Pinoy sense of style. But if you look around, you will be surprised by eclectic touches of art that break up the traditional aesthetic.

Once our party settles down, our meal begins.

We start with the Tinola Sa Tanglad. This dish of locally grown, 'native' chickens in a lemongrass broth infused with baby papaya and young sili leaves is a good start. The tinola is very flavorful mainly because of the broth imbibing the essence of free range chickens, But the taste is nothing new to Pinoys, who have had tinola in one form or another.

The following dishes came in quick order and were served family style with large bowls of locally grown brown rice.

Sinuglaw

Sinuglaw is a salad of tossed fire-grilled pork belly and fish ceviche topped with fresh fettlehead fern and pickled radish. I don't know about you, but my idea of a salad tends toward a large majority of vegetable or fruit ingredients. In this dish, veggies and fruit are a serious minority.

What you have is a lovely mixture of roasted pork and raw fish 'cooked' in sugar cane vinegar, mixed in with sliced red onions, red hot chilis and a minced, oddly edible fern. Alone, grilled pork belly and our Filipino version of ceviche are two dishes that I adore but together, they hit the spot. My one concern about this dish is the fish, which tends to lose its tenderness over time as it cooks in its vinegar dressing. So eat fast.

Kalderetang Kalabaw

The Kalderetang Kalabaw is a traditional carabao-meat stew with organic tomatoes and bell peppers infused with spicy hot chilis. I got a bit worried when I heard that we would be dining on water buffalo meat. Not for myself as I eat practically anything but for my lunch companions. Will they be comfortable eating an animal considered more abeast of burden than a source of protein, not mention it's also the Philippine national animal? Chef Paul warned us that because buffalo meat has less fat than beef, it tends to be tough if not cooked long enough. This makes it, in my opinion, the perfect meat for the slow cooking process of a stew.

After a moment of hesitation, we all dug in. I have a serious love for stews of all sorts. This dish only reinforces this love. This kaldereta is both sweet and spicy. The tomato based sauce is warm, rich and is filled with flavour. And the kalabaw meat? It is a bit tough but it gives more robust, red meat flavor that you will not get from fat marbled beef.

Sinugno

Sinugno are farmed tilapia fillets wrapped in mustard leaves, stewed in rich coconut cream with fragrant local-ginger and green chilis. This dish is the hands down winner of this meal. The tilapia fillets are poached to tender fish perfection. The mustard greens provide a great astringent counterpoint to the sweet, spicy and rich coconut milk.

As I have said before, I have an obsession with anything cooked in coconut milk. most especially fish. If you are like me, I strongly suggest you get into your car, drive to Kusina Salud and order this dish. It is that good. It should not be missed.

Halo-Halo ng Laguna

At this point, most of us were stuffed. Then, it came.

Don't be fooled by the picture above, this normal looking bowl of Halo-Halo ng Laguna was large enough feed a small army. We were all giddy with excitement at the idea of digging into this monster of a dessert.

For the uninitiated, halo-halo (from the Tagalog word for mix) is a popular Filipino dessert, especially during hot, humid summer months. This favorite snack has no set recipe as every Pinoy kitchen has their own version of it which they all claim as the best.

The mother of all halo-halos before us, had the works: sugar palm fruit (kaong), sweetened kidney beans, nata de coco, green and brown tapioca (sago), purple yam (ube), shredded jackfruit (langka), coconut sport (macapuno), and plantains (saba), pounded crushed rice (pinipig), red mung beans, topped with several scoops of mango ice cream and served with a cream caramel flan (leche flan). Simply, yum.

Creating Pinoy dishes for a Filipino market can be daunting, simply because we all have opinions on what Filipino food should taste like. And when we go out, we want something different from what we have during our daily routine. Honestly, I came expecting food that was European in technique but local in choice of ingredients. Instead, I left appreciating how traditional Pinoy food can be elevated and taken to new and flavorful places.

I love small, independently operated restaurants like Kusina Salud. There is an honest passion for food and a desire to bring out the best their talent and ingredients can muster.

Like all destination restaurants, Kusina Salud is about the experience. Taking that long, leisurely drive, walking around the establishment, seeing the sights and of course, enjoying the food. No rushing to finish. No hurrying to go somewhere else. Sit back, relax and let Jerome (our server) and Kusina Salud take care of you.


Kusina Salud
Cell: 0921-7726985
Laguna: 049-2466878
Manila: 02-6995035
Telefax: 02-6995036
kusinasalud@gmail.com

Please check their website for a map and directions to Kusina Salud.