Banawe Bound: Causeway Seafood Restaurant

It's funny how B and I ended up at a seafood restaurant without actually ordering any seafood. Unless you count the Shark's Fin? Didn't think so.

Our first plan was to go to Wok with Liu, which, I was told, was like a Chinese food version of dampa. With raging tummies, we were about to park when we realized that the place had closed down! Hungry as we were, we didn't want to have to figure out which among the unfamiliar restos would satisfy us, so we ended up at Causeway Seafood Restaurant.

Those in search of hole-in-the-wall, best-kept-secret-type restos might be disappointed with this post. Causeway, after all, is rather mainstream, with a branch in Libis. But it's a good starting point for those who wish to explore Banawe, yet are quite timid in their food choices: It's enough to give you Banawe bragging rights, but it's also a safe enough choice to keep you from sweating bullets about the eats on offer.

We started off with the aforementioned Shark's Fin (P50 for four, but I heard it goes down to P39 after 9:00 p.m.), which, in my opinion, was the highlight of the meal--not because everything else sucked, but because this was Shark's Fin done right. It was a perfect blend of meat, mushroom, and shrimp, and there wasn't an excess of siomai wrapper! You know how the wrapper tends to flake off at those cheap siomai stalls, leaving you with half the Shark's Fin you thought you bought? There was none of that nonsense here!

We likewise enjoyed the Spareribs with Tausi, also P50. I daresay that everything on that roving dumpling cart would be just as good.

A food columnist (I forget which one--perhaps Reggie Aspiras?) once wrote that every time she tried a new Chinese resto, she would order the standards: sweet and sour pork, and lemon chicken. If the resto can't get these two basic dishes right, she reasoned, how can you expect them to do a good job on all the others? I took a page from her rule book and ordered the Fried Chicken with Lemon Sauce (P210 for a small serving--"small" in this case is enough to feed three). If this was any indication of everything else on their menu, then Causeway would be fairly average. The good part was that the sauce wasn't cloyingly sweet.

We also ordered the Spareribs, which were enough to satisfy our craving for meat, but which weren't very memorable.

The Yong-Chow fried rice (P160, small) was likewise pretty average. I would've liked to order the Peking Duck (served two ways, P650 for half) but we were just too full--we still had a lot left over.

What B looked forward to ordering the most was the Tsing Tao Beer (P100), a slightly sweeter take on regular beer. I'm not big on the beer, so I couldn't really tell. It all tastes the same to me! But I'll take his word for it.

I was surprised that our bill added up to over P800--I expected Banawe eating to cost us much less, but Causeway is supposedly one of the higher-end restos in the area. I think you could get the same stuff for much less elsewhere. But to be fair, we probably ordered enough for three, even four (don't believe the menu when it says "small"!). If you do decide to drop by this place, maybe it'd be a good idea to keep the dumpling cart parked beside your table.

Causeway Seafood Restaurant
883 Banaue Street cor. Del Monte
Quezon City
Telephone: (02) 410 8690, (02) 740 8787

Behind the Kitchen Doors: The Lechon Capital of the Philippines

In the Philippines, there are few things that say celebration like a lechon.

A lechon is a suckling pig stuffed with herbs, marinated in the lechonero's secret brew and roasted for several hours over hot charcoal until the skin is a crispy, dark amber. A traditional Filipino centerpiece of any fiesta buffet, everything just seems more festive while tucking into crunch and juicy piece of skin and falling-off-the bone tender, succulent meat.

Maybe it's the time of year or just the need to eat roasted pork. Whatever the reason, my photographer friend Erik and I decide to visit what has been labelled the lechon capital of the Philippines, La Loma. Our hope was to gain a behind-the-scenes look into the creation of this celebrated dish. In the end, we saw and heard much more than we had expected.

Please be warned. Some of the pictures are graphic. If you have certain sensitivities toward animals I would suggest that you not view this slide show. If not, please click here.

Note: Once viewing the slide show, click on the pictures to read more information

To Serafin Cesario, Ate Rose and the hard working lechoneros of La Loma, many thanks.

Table Suggestions: Madison Grill

After our On the Table interview, Chef Sau del Rosario informed us that he was consulting on an upscale restaurant called Madison Grill at the Ayala Trinoma Mall in Quezon City. Wanting to erase the unhappy memory of my last food trip to Trinoma, I decide that I would drop by and have a meal.

From its name, the restaurant primarily focuses on their grilled items like the Wagyu and Angus beef steaks, Australian lamb chops and Japanese Kurobuta pork. But what intrigues guests are the open pizza station and traditional pizza oven within the restaurant's dining area. Giving diners a bit of a show as their pizzas are assembled and baked before their eyes (and watering mouths).

Until Mariko and Stich get a chance to visit, I won't go into detail about our meal at Madison. I will warn you that it is pricey. But I think it's worth of try and possibly even a return visit.

Madison Grill
3rd Level Park
Trinoma Mall
Edsa cor North Avenue
Quezon City
Telephone: (02) 934 1572

Many thanks to our server, Ryan. Good service should always be acknowledged.

Table Recipes: Roasted Banana Ice Cream with Nutella Swirl

I don't know many Pinoys who don't like banana-que.

For those of you not familiar with this uniquely Filipino comfort food, think of it as our version of caramel apples. But instead of apples, we use deep-fried bananas covered with caramelized brown sugar. Yum. You would be hard pressed to find anyone born the Philippines who does not have fond memories of this sugar-laden treat.

When I came across a recipe for this street side delicacy in ice cream form, I tossed my freeze bowl into the freezer and got mixing. Instead of baking the slices of banana, I decide to cook them the way we make our banana-que, fried in butter while sprinkling brown sugar over each side as it sautes. Also, I decide to add a swirl of Nutella. Who can resist a banana and Nutella combination? Not me.

Roasted Banana Ice Cream with Nutella Swirl
Adapted from David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop

3 medium-sized bananas, peeled and sliced 1/2 inch pieces lengthwise
1/3 cups light brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter, cut into small cubes
1 1/2 cups milk
2 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon villa extract
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1/3 cups Nutella, melted down to syrup consistency

• In a large non-stick pan, saute bananas in butter. Slowly sprinkle brown sugar over both side of each slice. Cook until medium caramel in color.
• Transfer bananas and accompanying thick syrup into a blender or food processor. Add milk, granulated sugar, vanilla, lemon juice and salt and puree until smooth.
• Chill the mixture in the refrigerator and freeze it in the ice maker, following the manufacturer's instructions.
• Once it reaches a soft-serve consistency, pour the ice cream in airtight storage container. Carefully, layer the Nutella syrup as you pour.

Makes one liter

The end result? An amazingly rich and thick banana ice cream with a distinctive flavour of caramel. Not to forget, the occasional taste of chocolate nuttiness only Nutella can bring.

My Ice Cream Bible

Just a short note about David Lebovitz and his tome, The Perfect Scoop.

Mr. Lebovitz is simply a genius. And his book is a testament to that. I have found my personal bible to all frozen desserts. Mr. Lebovitz is truly an inspiration to us, amateur ice cream makers. Thank you, David. End of rave.

Many, many thanks to my sweet A. You are the best. What would I do without you?

The Travelling Table: Tucked Away in Tagaytay

I thought Bag of Beans was just a quaint little bakeshop selling breads and pies, as proclaimed by its signage. But this little store along the Tagaytay main highway hides a pleasant surprise—right beside it is a small gate and a flight of stairs leading down to an utterly charming resto.

A few vines might graze your head as you make your way down the stone steps. As you head to the main restaurant, you’ll find customers enjoying the cool breeze, taking their meal in one of the little gazebos or sitting around a table under the mild Tagaytay sun. There is no view of the lake, but Mother Nature is present in the lovely hodgepodge garden—no manicured lawns here. And fashionistas, take heart: No need to fret that your chi-chi high heels will sink into the soil as the ground is covered with pebbles.

On my recent visit, it was just too cold outdoors, so B and I opted for a table inside. (I am a woman of the tropics!) And even though I wasn’t surrounded by lush greenery, I still didn’t feel like I was missing out—the rustic tropical interiors still gave me the feeling that I was in a place made for relaxing: Beyond the usual tables and chairs, comfortable daybeds overflowed with plump pillows, swags of white cloth drooped from the beams near the ceiling, and weathered wooden doors opened up to the delightfully unkempt gardens.

We were given the menu, which featured much more than pies and bread: main courses, grilled selections, pasta, desserts, soup and salad. I was eyeing the Pink Salmon Fillet (P350), but alas, they had run out of it. So I settled for the Chicken Breast Fillet and Pasta (P275). I chose the white sauce over the red sauce because I’m a sucker for anything creamy! In this case, however, I discovered that there can be too much of a good thing—my pasta was just swimming in the aforementioned sauce. I like my noodles lightly coated. The chicken could have used a bit more flavor, but I had no complaints about the portion size. I got two chicken breast fillets with my pasta!

B, manly man that he is, chose the Porterhouse (P425), served with some really buttery mashed potatoes (yum). The meat was quite tender, but it too lacked flavor. The good thing is we had a savior on hand—a bottle of HP Sauce! It was the first time we’d ever encountered it and loved how it added an extra zing to the steak (and even to my chicken).

After the heavy meal, I hardly had any room for dessert, but I decided to order anyway. You know, for research’s sake. I really wanted the Apple Pie ala Mode (P120), but figured I might as well get something I wouldn’t be able to find at just any other resto. I chose the Mixed Fruit Pie (P85), one of their specialties. It was filled with bits of apple, pineapple, mango, and peach, and was served deliciously warm. I would have enjoyed it more if it had a little less crust though.

So yeah, the food wasn’t spectacular, but it wasn’t bad either. Besides, I’ve realized that Bag of Beans isn’t a place you go to just for the food—you go for the experience. And for that alone, I would definitely go back.

P.S. I’m not a coffee drinker, but my research tells me that Bag of Beans serves that famous Alamid coffee—the stuff made from civet droppings. (Ahh, just one of the reasons I don’t drink coffee…)

On the Table: Tan Su Lyn

From experience we can tell you, making a great blog is never a one man (or woman) show. One way or another, a great food blog is always a collaborative effort. Take for example, Chubby Hubby. Although most attention is focused upon Aun Koh aka CH, many fans know that his wife, Tan Su Lyn better known as S. plays a large part in blog's success. A brillant writer and an editor of many well-known books, Su Lyn is Chubby Hubby's behind-the-screen editor and occassional contributor. It is their shared passion for all things gastronomic that binds them together and creates blogging magic.

So Su Lyn, tell us about yourself.

There isn’t much to tell. I am Singaporean. I grew up in Singapore but spent 6 years in Perth, Western Australia (where alongside getting a BA in Media Studies and PR, I developed a love for cooking and a greater appreciation for good food). In truth, I probably spent more time in the kitchen in the final few years of my studies than I did at the computer writing my honors thesis and beginnings of my doctoral thesis (which I still haven’t completed). Serendipitously, when I returned to Singapore, I applied for a job at a local weekly entertainment magazine and got hired! I realized that I loved writing about food more than I did about meeting Johnny Depp, Mariah Carey and Ricky Martin. So I eventually moved on to focus on writing about food. Over the 10 years I have been writing professionally, I have worked on a food magazine, books on food, as well as cookbooks. I feel very lucky to be able to have a career that revolves around a subject that I love.

How and when did you decide to make food your life's work?

My initial attraction to food writing took seed at my first job, where I worked closely with a boss who loved restaurants and food passionately. His enthusiasm was infectious. But I have to say that it became an obsession when I met CH. We were both writing about food when we first met at a restaurant tasting. I guess we added fuel to one another’s passion for food and wine! It’s scary to think that when we first moved in together, we probably had no more than 10 cookbooks between the 2 of us. We now have over 400 at last count. Of late, it has been even greater fun putting cookbooks together as a team.

You are a very accomplished food writer and editor, why not make you own food blog?

I don’t have the kind of energy CH has. But I like to think of the blog as not just his, but ours. Although I may not officially write most posts, I have edited or at least proof read the majority of them. We often discuss what should go into a post, and certainly a good deal of what is cooked and/or eaten is done collaboratively. It reflects our life together, and I don’t feel the need to duplicate that. We have made many friends through the blog, and interestingly, some people email me rather than CH. Perhaps they have specific questions they prefer that I respond to, or they might have accidentally chanced upon my address rather than his, but we do feel that the blog is run by both of us. Any questions he gets about cookie cutters, ovens or making ice-cream are automatically forwarded to me.

What is your favorite food blog, cookbook, food-related TV show and food magazine?

I love visiting Matt Bites, Nordljus and The Traveler's Lunchbox. Matt, Keiko and Melissa are generous souls, eloquent writers and fabulous photographers. They inspire me.

It’s difficult to pick just one favourite cookbook. I just can’t! I do love Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. Even though some of the recipes are ludicrously elaborate, if you do get into them, they actually work. When I want to cook for my own (rather than my husband’s or my guests’) pleasure, I enjoy dipping into Joyce Goldstein’s Italian Slow and Savoury. For sheer unattainable fantasy, I flip through the pages of Pierre Herme’s PH10 (yes, it’s in French, and no, I cannot read French). But the one cookbook I own that’s threatening to fall apart is probably Barbara Tropp’s The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking.

TV show-wise, we’re currently obsessed with Gordon Ramsay’s The F Word. It has all the elements of engaging reality TV and, well, it’s just there, readily available on TV (I’m not much of a TV junkie).

I collect Donna Hay’s magazine obsessively. I have every single issue since she first launched it. And in all honesty, I just love the gorgeous pictures.

What would you cook in the following situations?

A surprise visit by the in-laws

Um, that just doesn’t happen—ever. But if I had to, I’d probably throw together a simple seafood or vegetable pasta, something light, healthy and fresh—probably with Japanese flavours--because my parents-in-law appreciate those elements in their food.

A sudden craving for comfort food

Easy. Baked beans on buttered toast, or sardines and hard boiled eggs on buttered toast. I am a girl with simple needs. These dishes hit the spot for me.

Your husband is in a foul mood

Steamed savoury custard filled with minced pork marinated with soy sauce and Chinese wine, and studded with salted duck egg yolk. It’s HIS comfort food.

What food related habits of your husband, do you hate and why?

His eyes are bigger than his stomach. He tends to order way too much food when we dine out.

What is typical weekend with Chubby Hubby like?

Exhausting. We usually squeeze in at least one movie, lunch with family, a dinner party and brunch with friends.

Say I'm visiting Singapore for one day, where would you and husband take me for breakfast, lunch, an afternoon snack, dinner and cocktails?

Breakfast at Ya Kun Kaya Toast for a quintessential Singaporean breakfast of soft boiled eggs and toast, lunch at Iggy’s, Lana’s chocolate cake for tea, cocktails at Coffee Bar K and dinner at Sin Huat Eating House in Geylang for crab beehoon.

Can you give three tips for would be food writers?

1. Set out to be a writer first, and food writer second. By this, I mean that one needs to learn the ropes. There are only that many jobs available for people who want to write about food. Learn how to write well wherever you get the chance to, even if you don’t get to write about food. While you’re doing that, read widely and learn about food on your own time as well.

2. It takes time. Unfortunately, to write about food well, you need to have eaten well. I don’t mean that you have to have eaten at the most expensive restaurants. But you do need to taste lots of different kinds of food and learn to focus on what you’re tasting, and then learn to articulate the experience. Start with what you’re most familiar with, but be adventurous.

3. If you’re passionate about the subject, you’ll find that there are lots of people who are willing to share their knowledge and experience with you. Reach out to people. If you are genuinely interested in learning, there are plenty of people who will be happy to help you along the way. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.

Thanks to Su Lyn for the picture and Margaux for getting the ball rolling.

Table Recipes: Strawberry, Nutella and Banana French Toast

I love brunch.

Simply because you can eat breakfast food late in the day and people wouldn't think of it as odd. One of things I love making is a variation of Jaime Oliver's recipe. This dish is an improved version of a brunch staple, French Toast. But here, what you create is a French Toast Sandwich with a sweet, fruity filling.

Since there seems to be an abundance of strawberries in the local markets, I decided to create a version using these lovely red berries adding a bit of Nutella for a nutty chocolate kick.

Strawberry, Nutella, Banana French Toast
Adapted from Jaime's Dinners by Jaime Oliver

4 pieces sliced bread
2 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1 cup of strawberries, quartered
1/2 of a medium banana, mashed
2 tablespoons Nutella
caster sugar
butter
whipped cream

• Beat the eggs in bowl and mix in the milk.
• In another bowl, gently mix together 3/4 cup of the strawberries, the mashed banana and Nutella.
• Thinly butter each side of the sliced bread and dip each slice in the egg mixture.
• Place the strawberry mixture between two pieces of sliced bread and gently press down.
• In a non-stick pan, fry the french toast with some melted butter.
• Once golden brown and slightly crisp, transfer to a plate.
• Sprinkle with sugar. Garnish with the reserved strawberries and dollop of whipped cream.

Makes two servings

For this recipe, you can use any fruit combination you want: Blueberries and bananas. Bananas and melted chocolate. Sliced mangoes and condensed milk. Anything your heart desires. Have fun and enjoy.

Many thanks to Stich and K. for their help.

Banawe Bound: Fook Yuen Food Center

Fook Yuen Crabs

Franco's note: A little bit of a change this month. Instead of the usual three impressions of one restaurant, we will be writing about a food destination that piqued our interest, namely Banawe Avenue. The three of us will be visiting three different restaurants along Banawe Avenue. Enjoy reading.

For those of you unfamiliar with Metro Manila, Banawe Avenue is well known for one thing, after-sale car parts. From wheel rims to steering wheels, from spark plugs to seat covers, if it's a part of car, it's almost certain that one of the myriad of shops along this avenue has it for sale. But since this is still a food blog, we won't get into that.

This was my impression of Banawe. Until, I stumbled upon this post. Interesting. Who would have guessed that over the years Banawe would have some of the most authentic Chinese restaurants in Manila outside of Binondo, Manila's old Chinatown? I just couldn't resist. So after doing some consulting, I chose to visit the crab place, Fook Yuen Food Center.

Let's get this out of the way first. The place is small--25 seats maximum. During lunch, it can get noisy and very crowded. With its white interiors, linoleum covered tables and plastic monobloc chairs, this food center is far from being a luxe Chinese restaurant. In fact, I imagine that under the definition of 'hole-in-the-wall', there is a picture of Fook Yuen.

With that said, let's talk food. After taking our order, our waitress runs off and disappears in the back of the room. She returns holding a fat, very dark green crab, still alive and snapping. We ask for a smaller crab but she retorts that this 800 gram crustacean beauty is smallest they have. We approve. After a momentary wait, our crab returns to our table ready to be devoured.

Fook Yuen Crab (P100/100 grams) is amazingly delicious. The crab, quartered and dismembered, is served in a creamy curry sauce which, I imagine, started off as milky white but has turned a light yellow-orange because of the infused crab fat. The scent of crab, ginger and leeks steaming from the dish is simply divine. My mouth waters.

Eating crab is neither a clean nor civilized affair. It requires some effort and you will get your hands dirty. But in the end, the reward is worth it. The crab is fat and the flesh is succulent. Pouring the crab fat-enriched sauce over a bowl of streaming hot rice and tucking in is just blissful.

Salt and Pepper Frog's Legs

In the middle of relishing our crab, the side dish of Salt and Pepper Frog's Legs (P190) arrives. Initially, what surprises you about this dish is the size of the legs. They are unusually large. Seasoned, lightly battered and fried, these legs are a much-needed, delectable break from the rich fatty crab. The dish alone is tasty but it's hard to ignore the star of the table.

I admit that I love eating in small, out-of-the-way places. The adventure of discovering restaurants like Fook Yuen Food Center always intrigues me. Would I go back? Absolutely. Whether my car needs an overhaul or not.

Fook Yuen Food Center
558 Banawe Street
corner Samat Street
Quezon City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 711-3057, (02) 740 7849

Many thanks to Tanya and docchef for pointing the way.

Table Recipes: Tomato Soup with Truffle Oil

Three reasons for this dish.

First, the weather has been unseasonably cold these past few days. In my opinion, nothing warms up like a hot bowl of soup. Secondly, We just got a panini press. I just couldn't resist having a soup and sandwich brunch. And lastly, because of a misinterpreted shopping list, we ended up with way too many tomatoes. I guess if life gives you tomatoes. You make tomato soup.

I am a huge fan of Jamie Oliver. In many ways, Jamie reintroduced me to cooking. With his easy-going and humorous manner, this chef makes cooking uncomplicated, accessible and even fun. This dish is all about comfort. It's simple and relatively quick to make.

Tomato Soup with Truffle Oil
Adapted from Jaime's Dinners by Jamie Oliver

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and grated
6 tablespoons double cream
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
2 eggs yolks
1 kg very ripe tomatoes*
1 litre chicken stock
sea salt and ground black pepper
A handful of basil, leaves pick and stalks finely chopped
olive oil
truffle oil

• In a large pot, saute the onions, garlic and carrot and basil stalks in olive oil. Cover the pot and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
• Whisk the cream, vinegar and egg yolks together in a bowl and put aside.
• Drop the tomatoes into boiling water for 30 seconds. Then gently move them into an ice bath. Remove the skins and roughly chop the remaining flesh.
• Add the the chopped tomatoes to the sauteing vegetables. Add the stock and simmer again for another 20 minutes. Lid on, please.
  
• Puree the soup with a blender, food processor or immersion blender
• Return the pureed soup into the pot. Bring it back to a simmer and season to taste with sea salt and black pepper.
• Before serving, stir the cream mixture into the soup. It gives the soup a shiny and silky texture.**
• Garnish with finely torn basil leaves and truffle oil.

Serves 4 generously

* You can subsitute this with canned tomatoes.
** Don't reboil the soup after this point or you might end up with tomato flavored scrambled eggs.

Some may find this soup a bit rich. I would suggest you serve it with some bread. It helps cut the acidity. I myself love this dish with a warm French baguette.

So Long, Salamia. Hello, Mariko.

As a dear friend of mine says, the only constant in life is change.

Another chair at the table is empty once again. Salamia is moving on.

Stich and I will miss her. But, we know that she will be going on to bigger and better things. To Salamia, thank you so much for being part of this little endeavour.

Moving on, join us in welcoming Mariko to Table for Three, Please. She will be join us this December. I for one, am looking forward to your first post.

Remember, it is always about the food...

My Favorite Chefs by Our Table Guest, Chef Robert Pengson

Everyone needs a role model. For me, I try to pick the best people who I believe display extraordinary qualities that I would love to adapt myself. For their passion, boldness, commitment and excellence I have chosen Chef Joel Robuchon, Chef Ferran Adria and Chef Thomas Keller.

Joel Robuchon strikes me as the epitome of someone who does something great just for the hell of it. He gave up his Michelin Stars in order to make his restaurant as he saw it and not as others would like to see it. He gave up fame over being true to himself. I admire his boldness and respect his vigilant state of self-awareness. His food is also the best for me. Chef Joel Robuchon's will is my inspiration now that I am planning to put up a restaurant of my own in the next few years. When was the last time you did something just for the hell of it?

Next, Chef Ferran Adria is the ultimate innovator. Although I have yet to try his food, his book has been an inspiration to me to go on and try new "wierd" and "out of this world" things when it comes to cooking. I sometimes feel chefs are trapped in a fixed way of thinking and remembering this chef's genius reminds me to break away from the norm every now and then.

My third chef is Chef Thomas Keller. It is harder to impress your guest if you only have 2 -3 bites per dish as compared to serving in the main stream way. Many people do not quite yet understand the philosophy of the tasting menu but I believe it to be the most challenging work of a chef. This is why I continually strive toimprove myself in this arena.

We all need role models to emmulate.

You can watch Chef Rob on his show called Chef to Go on QTV-11 on every Sunday at 7 pm.

Table Conversation: I Dream of Beignets

Lately, I have been dreaming of beignets.

Strange, I know. When most people dream sunny days at the beach, spending time with loved ones (living or otherwise) or flying, I dream of sugar-covered, french doughnuts. Go figure. Let me just say I have never been Cafe du Monde, the American home of these famous little pastries, let alone New Orleans. So I'm bit at a loss as to why I would be dreaming about them to begin with.

In my dream, I am sitting in some unfamiliar cafe waiting to be served. When out of nowhere, a waiter with a wide toothy smile places before me a plate of spherical, golden-brown, sugar-coated goodness. I pick one up. The powdered sugar cascades down to the table and then to my lap. As I am about to bite in, A appears and says, "Why bother? There is a perfectly good Krispy Kreme down the road." I wake up. Denied a taste. Sadness.

I am not a person who quickly gives up. Thus, when an opportunity to have a meeting at Serendra arises, I take it as sign that I can go to the one place in Manila where my dream can find closure, the newly-revived New Orleans Restaurant.

I call to check if beignets are available. Intially, I am told that the beignets are on the menu but they are currently unavailable. Again, sadness. I ask to speak to the manager, Mike. After explaining to him my need to have an order of beignets (I left out the part about the dream), he graciously explains to me that their beignets moved rather quickly and are difficult to make. But if I can tell him when exactly I would coming over, he would have the kitchen cook me up a batch... I love New Orleans.

At the designated time, I arrive at New Orleans, mention my name to the host, take my seat and wait. I don't even order. They know what I want. Twenty minutes later, my order arrives. My eyes widen and my mouth waters. It is everything that I dreamt it to be and more. Served with a freshly brewed cup of coffee, I dip a piece into my java and take a bite. Happiness at last.

I was a little bit late for my meeting. But I'm sure they didn't mind too much.

New Orleans
Building 6
Bonifacio High Street
McKinley Parkway
Fort Bonfacio Global City
Taguig City, Metro Manila
Telephone: (02) 856 4326, (02) 856 4785

Many thanks to Mike and the gracious staff at New Orleans for fulfilling a sugar covered dream.

On the Table: Chef Sau del Rosario

If the best chefs are born, then Chef Sau del Rosario came in this world with a silver spatula in hand. This native son of Pampanga has traveled through Europe and Asia, honing his craft. Refining his tastes and skills to the point that he is now considered one of the Philippines' most innovative and in-demand chefs, Chef Sau is currently developing new dishes for M Cafe's menu. The new and improved menu will debut on November 25.

Who in your life has influenced your cooking the most?

Blame it on genes. My grandfather and my father were chefs too. But it was my mother who taught me the ABC's of cooking. She was a great cook. At age 5, I learned how to prepare Rellenong Bangus!

Which book has had the biggest impact?

La Riviera by Alain Ducasse. He's my chef icon. I like the book because it's so personal. When he was living in Monaco, I had the chance to meet him. He cooked for me and signed his book which I brought from Nice, where I was working and living.

What was your first job in the food business?

During my high school days, I baked some brownies and pineapple upside-down cake and sold them to my classmates. I also charmed some "girls" with them. That was then.

But officially, I was a waiter at Westin for two to three years and promoted as cook's helper after making kulit to the Swiss chef! Eh naawa! (He took pity on me.)

What is your inspiration for the new menu of M Cafe?

M Cafe's menu is very special for me because these are the things that I have learned from my travels. My source of inspiration comes from people I meet, cultures that I embraced and events I participated in. With the new menu, I dug into my childhood memories, my mom's recipes, my Tita Linda's food in Shanghai, Ittichai's Thai elements and Sam's Chinese influences.

What are your favorite items on the new menu?

Nori Crusted Black Cod, Edamame Puree, Soy Yuzu Glazed Sauce. This is my signature dish which I featured in Paris, Singapore, Thailand and in M Cafe. It is always the bestseller. It was featured many times in magazines and I even taught the recipe to my nephews in Las Vegas since they loved it. I hope they keep it and pass it on to the next generation.

Which restaurant meal (foreign or local) do you remember the most?

I went to Jules Verne to meet the Michelin chef, Alain Reix in the Eiffel Tower in Paris during my first trip there. I met the chef when he did a promo in Cheval Blanc in Shangrila a long time ago. I remembered he told me if I go to Paris to give him a call and he would show me the city. So years later, I did and he treated me a seven course degustation with wine pairings in this wonderful restaurant on the top of Paris! Ooh lah lah.

Besides your own place, what's your favorite restaurant in Manila?

Mamou. I love the food. I love the chef. I just love everything. Plus, add Zhong to my list. I love the Itlog na Maalat Crusted Fried Chicken and lots more. Josh cooks so good!

What junk food do you love?

I love my Fruit Salad with Nestle Cream in the morning, for merienda and before going to bed! In fact I buy cans and cans every Saturday at Rustans Rockwell!

Is there a food you just can't seem to enjoy?

The food that is served in one restaurant in Serendra! I wonder why it is always full. Clue: order the pork chop. It tastes like the swelas(sole) of a shoe!

Just between us, what are your future plans?

To write a cookbook before I die.

M Cafe
Glass Wing
Ayala Museum
Makati Avenue cor. de la Rosa Street
Makati City
Telephone: (02) 757 3000, (02) 757 6000

The French Corner: A Meal in Pleasantville

from top left, clockwise
Pepper and Sesame Crusted Tuna in Ponzu Dressing, US Rib Eye with Brown Rice Risotto,
Interiors of The French Corner, Cheese, Mushroom and Spinach Souffle

The Sunday started well.

We were driving south to Ayala Alabang, an upper class enclave in Metro Manila. It was a sunny day and thankfully, no traffic jam in sight. Usually, it's such chore to go to that part of town but on that day, you could say it was almost pleasant.

Our goal? To dine at the Alabang incarnation of Chef Billy King's much revered chain of restaurants. This eatery is tucked in a corner of Westgate, an upscale strip mall of restaurants, high-end furniture stores, art galleries and even plastic surgeon offices. It's called The French Corner.

When you go to one of Chef King's restaurants, you will have expectations. Well-appointed interiors, attentive service and of course, great food. Some would ask if Chef King is still relevant in Manila's booming food scene. I would argue that his restaurants are still the fine dining benchmarks that all others are measured against.

Far from being ultra-modern and sleek, The French Corner feels like a large dining room of an even larger house. It was warm and inviting but relatively empty for a Sunday lunch service. A and I surmised that the locals were having late lunches at home. With its blond, wooden floors, white table clothes and expensive art on the walls, it seemed like we had walked into a rich aunt's summer home instead of ritzy fine dining establishment.

I started with a savory Cheese, Mushrooms and Spinach Souffle (P215). This is after all a Billy King restaurant. It would be a sacrilege not to order a souffle in one form or another. When it arrives at the table, I can't but smile at this puffed-up pastry. It's almost a shame to cut into it. But of course, I zealously did, digging into its lovely puff and pouring the accompanying cream sauce straight into it. It was everything you expect it to be. Light, airy and sublimely delicious.

Arriving little bit after my delightful souffle, A's US Rib Eye Steak with a Brown Rice Risotto (P700) was set in front of my wife. Her eyes widened with delight. Even though Jayson, our server, brought out the wrong side of mashed potatoes (A ordered the french fries), he didn't miss a beat. He replaced the dish before we could say, "Remplacez, sil vou's plait". The steak was grilled to medium-rare perfection. Although the brown rice risotto didn't have the creamy consistency we expected, it was still a pleasure to eat.

My main course of a Pepper and Sesame Crusted Tuna with Asian Salad (P350) was a bit of a disappointment. Not because it wasn't good and beautiful on the plate but because there seemed to more salad than tuna. The tuna lent itself well to the pepper and sesame crust. With the intense citrus tang of the Ponzu dressing, the dish was elevated to a new level of flavour. I just wish there was more tuna to savor.

In the age of Web 2.0, what is relevant tends to be the new. Food blogs are no exception. I will not say that Chef King's restaurants are at the forefront of any culinary revolution. But because of their hallmark of consistently high standards in all aspects of the restaurant experience, I believe that they will always occupy a revered place in the Philippine food scene. If it is all about the food, Chef King and his team are on the right track.

A pleasant restaurant. A pleasant meal. Overall, a very pleasant day.

PS.We knew that The Dark Chocolate Souffle would have been amazing. But, I just couldn't resist going to Sebastian's Ice Cream Studio near by. Try the Dark Malt Milkball. Divine.

The French Corner
Lot 102-103
Commerce Ave cor Filinvest Ave.
Alabang Muntinlupa City
Telephone: (02) 771-2345 or (02) 771-2346

Table Recipes: The Schlow Burger

After a drastic change in the family lunch menu over the weekend, I decided to fall back on a messy, eat-with-your-hands, personal favorite recipe, The Schlow Burger.

This quick, easy and simply delicious burger is named after its creator, Chef Michael Schlow. Chef Michael who is the executive chef and owner of famed Boston eateries Radius, Via Matte and Great Bay and a champion of the SlowFood movement in America, is also the author of a book which I consider one of my go-to cookbooks, It's About Time.

"So, instead of my "ego book," here is a book about time -- time and it's effects on our meals and eating habits. Whether you have a little bit of time or a lot, many of the cooking situations you face in your home will be addressed here. This book is about more than just time measured in seconds, minutes, hours, and days. These ideas on time will rely on rather elastic definitions of the word...

This book sets out not only to teach you how to cook and eat well when you're on the go; it also works in reverse for when your soul is crying out for a ittle bit of culinary therapy. I can't think of a better way to unwind than by spending a couple of hours in the kitchen with a glass of wine, some music on the stereo, and something delicious simmering on the stove." - Chef Michael Schlow

This recipe is the reason why I have never returned to a fast food joint for my burger fix. Cook, eat and enjoy. And take your time...

The Schlow Burger
Adapted from It's About Time by Michael Schlow

• 1 kg Ground Round
• 4 tablespoons Olive Oil
• Salt and Pepper
• 6 slices of good quality English Cheddar
• 6 Hamburger buns, split in half

For the Horseradish Sauce

• 8 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 4 teaspoons prepared white horseradish
• Juice of a lemon

For Crispy Onions

• 2 large yellow onions, sliced into rings, 1/3 to 1/8 inch think
• 2 cups canola oil

Mix together the ground beef, olive oil, salt and generous amount of black pepper.

Divide the meat into six equal sized patties and refrigerate until needed.*

Heat the grill or grill plate to high.

Remove the refrigerated patties five to seven minutes before grilling.

Place the burgers on the pre-heated grill and cook for three minutes on each side.**

Transfer the burgers to a cooler section of your grill/grillplate and cover each one with a slice of cheese.

Lower the heat and cover. After four minutes, the cheese will be melted and the burgers will be cooked rare to medium-rare.

Toast the buns and place a burger on each. Spread a dollop of horseradish sauce on each burger and top with a generous amount of crispy onions.

Season with black pepper and enjoy.

For horseradish sauce:
Combine mayonnaise, horseradish and lemon juice in a mixing bowl.

Season with black pepper and store in refrigerator until needed.

For crispy onions:
Place oil in a small sauce pot. Bring to a boil over high heat.

Add onion rings. Reduce heat to a low simmer.

Turn onions occasionally with a fork and cook until golden brown--approximately 20 minutes.

Remove onions from oil and blot on paper towels.***

*Chef Michael recommends doing this an hour before grilling.
**For rare.
***The onions won't be crispy at this point but will crisp after a few minutes.

Makes 6 large servings

Table Conversation: The New Theater

from top left, clockwise
21st Century Eggs Benedict, Foie-lipop and Potato Chips with Anchovy Aioli,
Ponzu Scallop Carpaccio and Mesclun Salad, Prosciutto and Brie de Meaux Roulade and
Foie Gras Cappuccino with Sweet Corn Form

I always enjoy watching an artist perform.

Be it a movie, a television show, a painting or even a great book, there is nothing like relishing in another person’s creative passion. In my opinion, in this country, a chef’s art is much undervalued. Their form of performance art, be it staged in five-star hotel restaurant or Aling Nena’s carinderia has the same goal: to create food that whets the appetite, satisfies the senses and leaves the guests wanting more.

Chefs Sunshine Puey and Robert Pengson compose the core of Gourmandise, a catering company they both cook for and manage. Besides their private dining commitments, they also teach at the Academy for International Culinary Arts. On a monthly basis, it is at this school, where Chefs Sunshine and Rob have a little fun with their guests’ taste buds.

We interviewed Chefs Rob and Sunshine a few months back. And after reading their responses, I knew that theirs was a playground of gastronomical flavors I had to indulge in. Since this is only once-a-month event, tables at their school’s small dining area fill up quickly. Sadly, A. and I would have to wait two months for the privilege. A test of my emotional quotient.

Finally, the date arrives.

So with our favorite Shiraz in hand, A. and I trek to dinner, giddy with excitement. Once at the school, we are ushered into the school's dining area--an intimate, high ceiling room done in muted neutrals with a large glass window that gives the guest a clear view of the kitchen. The room fills quickly; mostly with large groups of friends and family. I believe we are only one of two couple tables that evening. After a short but warm greeting from Chef Sunshine, the dinner begins...

Gourmandise
Degustation Dinner Menu

Foie-lipop, Potato Chips with Anchovy Aioli, Lychee Jello-O Martini

21st Century Eggs Benedict, Truffle Oil & Fleur de Sel

Ponzu Scallop Carpaccio, Mesclun Salad

Prosciutto and Brie de Meaux Roulade, Raspberry Coulis, Foie Gras Cappuccino with Sweet Corn Form

Roasted Vegetable Tart

Chilean Sea Bass, Truffle – Honey Beurre Blanc, Toasted Sapetzle

Intermezzo

Duck Breast, Tart Tatin with Port Wine Reduction and Duck Confit & Foie Gras Croquette, Green Papaya Salad, Plum Sauce

Cold Champagne and Peach Soup with Ice Cream

Sweet and Sour Lemon

Mini Chocolate Hazelnut Cake

By themselves, most dishes were delicious. Some were outstanding. But others were not particularly memorable. While with some dishes, our opinions were split.

A and I loved the 21st Century Eggs Benedict and Ponzu Scallop Carpaccio with a Mesclun Salad. The eggs benedict served in a martini glass was a frothy, whimsical play on the breakfast favorite while the light, simple and elegant scallop carpaccio dish was the perfect foil to its relatively heavier predecessor. We also enjoyed Foie-lipops covered in Pop Rocks and the Potato Chips with rich Anchovy Aoili. We laughed as we bit into the foie gras lollipops. Not only were we treated to the rich flavor of duck liver but also the tiny candies were literally bursting in our mouths. And as for the potato chips, who doesn’t love freshly made chips especially with a salty, creamy anchovy dip?

Two dishes were a bit of a letdown: the Roasted Vegetable Tart and the Cold Champagne and Peach Soup with Ice Cream. Although both were delicious by most standards, it felt like these dishes lacked the kind of innovation and imagination the other dishes displayed earlier, especially the champagne and peach soup which tasted like a watered-down mango jubilee. A. loved the Prosciutto and Brie de Meaux Roulade while I thought it felt like eating a ham and cheese croissant. I loved the Foie Gras Cappuccino with Sweet Corn Form but A. just could not get over the idea drinking liver. As for the main courses, we both liked the Chilean Sea Bass with its Beurre Blanc infused with honey and truffle oil over the much too busy Duck Breast with Port Wine Reduction and Duck Confit Croquette. This fish course was more sublime and far less confusing for my taste buds.

We want to apologize to Chef Sunshine, the more pastry-inclined chef of the duo. A and I, in our advancing years have become lightweights in the wine drinking department. So after polishing off a bottle of red (soon after the duck course), we found ourselves with a bit of a buzz. We know we enjoyed the desserts but we can't remember what was better between the chocolate and lemon pastries, But one thing is for certain, we were a happily (and a bit tipsy) satisfied table.

Be forewarned, the tasting menu changes every three months. We were the last batch for this menu. So beginning this November, Chefs Sunshine and Rob will be rolling out a completely new menu and thus, a different dining experience.

As a little preview, Chef Sunshine mentioned that their new menu will be more tapas-inspired. Interesting. Call soon. Reservations are hard to come by.

Gourmandise Catering
Email: gourmandisefood@gmail.com
or
The Academy for International Culinary Arts
Telephone: (632) 672-2271

Table Recipes: Vietnamese Braised Pork

Gastronomically speaking, there are two things that I am loving right now: The simplicity of Vietnamese cuisine and lovely white, fatty pork.

Since our (much too short) trip to Ho Chi Minh, I have become a bit obsessed with Vietnamese food. So when I come across a recipe that indulges the things that I love, I dive right in and start heating up my wok.

According to Chef Ken Hom, this pork dish has much in common with a similar Shanghai recipe. However, the Vietnamese version uses fish sauce instead of soy sauce and is a lot simpler to cook.

Vietnamese Braised Pork
Adapted from Foolproof Asian Cookery by Ken Hom

• 3 tablespoons groundnut oil
• 750 grams pork belly including the rind, cut into 1.5 inch cubes
• 8 spring onions cut into 2 x 1/4 inch pieces
• 500 ml chicken stock
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce

Heat the groundnut oil in a work or a large frying pan over high heat. Once slightly smoking, fry the cubes of pork belly in the oil. Once crisp and seared on all sides, remove from the wok and drain.

In a large casserole, place the cut spring onion, chicken stock, sugar, salt and pepper and bring it all to a slow boil.

Add the browned pork and simmer for 1 to 1.5 hours. Check and stir occasionally to avoid burning. Before the last five minutes, add in the Thai fish sauce.

Serve and enjoy.

Makes 4 generous servings

What I really love about this dish (like most stewed or braised meat recipes) is that it tastes even better the next day.

The Travelling Table: Hello Uncle Ho

Vietnam has always been a country that has intrigued me. Like most people of my generation, my idea of Vietnam was shaped (for better or worse) by the American media. Movies like Rambo and Platoon or TV shows like China Beach portrayed Vietnam as a war-ravaged, third world backdrop to the American-Vietnamese War. Not exactly what one would call an ideal tourist destination.

So unless you have been hiding under a rock for the past few decades, you may have missed the news. Vietnam is nothing like that. No matter what travel show, magazine or website you may watch, read or visit, I'm almost sure, they will be saying the same thing, Vietnam is hot and definite a must-see for the traveller looking for the unexpected.

I love Vietnamese food. I also believe that if you want to try the very best of a certain cuisine that you must go to its country of origin. For me, travelling to Vietnam was a no brainer.

From top left, clockwise
Vietnamese Iced Milk Coffee, Vietnamese Styled Sandwich
Interiors of La Fenetre Soleil, French Toast with Vietnamese Coffee Flavor

After a hectic trip to Bangkok and short lay over in Manila (that's another story), A. and I finally arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (HCM). Tired and suffering for a case of traveller's hangover, we retired for the evening and promised ourselves an early start.

We're up at 11 am.

Too late for breakfast and too early for lunch, we decided to try out a place we read about in our Luxe City Guide, La Fenetre Soliel.

A. and I arrived that appointed address. For a while, we stood confused (and a little scared) in front of a small, dark stairwell with a broken neon sign hanging over the archway. We wondered if we were in the right place. Not the types who frighten away so easily, we climbed up the dingy stairs to second floor and found ourselves greeted by beautiful loft space bathed in morning sunlight.

This little tucked-away gem of a place is an oasis from the hustle and bustle of the growing city of HCM. With its high ceilings, exposed brick walls and comfy, mismatched furniture, this space feels more like a cool artsy friend’s apartment than an actual café.

On this late weekday morning, we have the place all to ourselves. Lounging around and listening to chilled out music, we decided to have our first taste of Vietnamese food in Vietnam.

We started with a couple of glasses of Vietnamese Iced Milk Coffee. This concoction of Vietnamese weasel coffee and condensed milk poured over ice was both refreshing and invigorating. I may not have been a coffee drinker but this drink made me a quick coffee convert. Next, I ordered the French Toast powdered with even more coffee flavor. Normally, I love French toast but the added coffee kick just pushed this dish over the top. On the other side of the table, A. wanted to try Vietnamese street staple, a Bahm Mi. This Vietnamese take on a baguette sandwich is stuffed with tomatoes, greens and sliced beef and pork dressed with light vinaigrette. A. loved this sandwich. It was simple, fresh and light. I had to agree.

A. and I adored this little salon, so much so, we returned on our last day to chill out and relax.

top left, clockwise
Entrance of Quan An Ngon, Steamed Snails with Lemongrass
Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Seafood, Vegetables, Grilled Pork Balls with Rice Paper

This is how our Luxe City Guide described it “It’s like Pamela Anderson’s bra in here, big and packed.” With a description like that, how can anyone resist Quan An Ngon?

This converted one-story, dark-wood and open-air French villa is so popular with the locals that is practically packed all hours of the day. Getting there early is a must. And that’s exactly what we did, arriving just in nick of time right before the early dinner crowd.

Diners are seated in central main house while along open terraces, hawker-like food stations stocked with fresh produce and ingredients prepare their dishes to order. The first dish to arrive at our table was the Steamed Snails with Lemongrass. Dipped into a sweet chili-ginger sauce, these snails were so fresh and distinctively delicious that even A. (a devoted non-eater of anything that crawls) enjoyed tucking into them.

The next two dishes came in quick succession: the Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Seafood and the Grilled Minced Pork Balls with Rice Vermicelli. Although stir-fried noodles are fairly common is Southeast Asia, the grilled minced pork balls with rice vermicelli and fresh veggies (all wrapped in an almost transparent piece of rice paper) is very Vietnamese. A. and I have enjoyed getting ‘involved’ with our food. Thus, this process of having to assemble and wrap our meal into a fresh spring roll before biting into it thrills us.

With a couple of glasses of Vietnamese Iced Coffee (our new beverage of choice), this was easily our best meal of our Saigon journey.

top left, clockwise
Roast Lamb Shank, Melting Goat Cheese with Fresh Herbs
Interiors of Camargue, Steamed Salmonized Trout

Like the Philippines, Vietnam has its own colorful colonial past. For a time, the country fell under auspices of the French who, in many obvious ways, influenced the culinary tastes of the Vietnamese. Like, for example, their daily obsession with coffee and their love of fine baked goods like the baguette. It is no wonder then that trying French cuisine in this once French outpost was a to-do in our list.

Camargue is one of the older, more well-established French restaurants. We were excited by the prospect of eating at what has been dubbed a Saigon institution.

Only open for dinner reservations, this once colonial French villa is now a two-story restaurant and bar. On the first floor is a casual bar with billiard tables, dartboards and an open-air pizza oven. On the second floor is the slightly more formal dining area. That night, the Camargue is packed with good mix of foreigners and locals. All dining is done al fresco and by candlelight. It would have the perfect romantic setting but…

We ordered our dinner. We decided to share an appetizer of Melted Goat Cheese flavored with Fresh Herbs. A good starter but somehow a bit uninteresting. Next, we ordered two dishes that caught our interest: the Steamed ‘Salmonized’ Trout in a Warm Truffle Sauce and the Roasted Lamb Shank with Steamed Artichokes and Spring Vegetables. By themselves, these dishes were executed well and yet, like the goat cheese starter, they were both painfully bland. I don’t know if we ordered badly or if the kitchen was having an off night but I was thankful that least the alcohol was flowing that evening.

A solid reputation and high prices always equal higher expectations. If those expectations are not met, the experience will always be a disappointment. By Saigon standards, this was our single most expensive meal but sadly, it was also one of our least favorite dining experiences of all time.

top left, clockwise
Vietnamese Iced Milk Coffee, Bun Thit Nuong Cha Gio
Bun Cum Tom Chua, Interiors of Bun Ta

Next door to Quan An Ngon is another Vietnamese restaurant we enjoyed called Bun Ta. In Pinoy restaurant terms, if Quan An Ngon is Cabalen then Bun Ta is Abe.

Bun Ta is also a renovated colonial bungalow with an all-white, air-conditioned interior (a rarity in HCM). With its modern, minimalist take on the traditional Vietnamese restaurant, this establishment is decidedly the upscale sibling of its next door neighbor.

With every other dish offered having it, in one form or another, bun or vermicelli noodles are obviously a prominent part the menu. A. and I shared two dishes. First, a Bowl of Egg and Vermicelli Noodles served with Grilled Sliced Pork, Fresh Herbs and Fried Spring Rolls. Next was the Sliced Pork and Fermented Shrimp with Rice Vermicelli and Fresh Greens which we hungrily wrapped in rice paper.

The food was quite tasty. But in my opinion, I would still go next door. You just can’t beat the authentic air, lively energy and the cheaper prices of Ngon.

La Fenetre Soleil
2nd Floor
135 Le Thanh Ton
District One
Ho Chi Minh City
Telephone: (848) 822 5209
Open from 9 am to 11 pm daily
Enter via the stairway at 125 N.K.K.N Street

Quan An Ngon
138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
District One
Ho chi Minh City
Telephone: (848) 825 7179

Camargue
18 Cao Ba Quat
District One
Ho Chi Minh City
Telephone: (848) 824 3148-9
Dinner Only

Bun Ta
136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia
District One
Ho Chi Minh City
Telephone: (848) 822 9913